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post #91 of 164 Old 02-24-2014, 08:31 AM
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I like the latest plan with the open theater area. It bothers me that there isn't a sweet spot chair, though. wink.gif

Since you already use JRemote, I would just setup zones in JRiver. You can easily switch zones in JRemote. Do you want mono or stereo zones? You can control the zones with any iOS, Android, or Windows devices. If you wanted to, you could mount permanent touch panels in some zones for control.

You can add audio devices to your HTPC if you want to hardwire each zone. The new 8 channel Behringer Firepower FCA1616 is only $250. You can also keep the amp in your rack. Then all you need to run is speaker cable for each zones. There are other options such DLNA devices or Airplay that will work with JRiver. You could start with hardwired zones and add wireless zones later.

I recently tested a Solid State Logic Alpha Link DAC for dlbeck's theater (he ended up buying one). It has 16 channels and you can add another 16 channels. You can use any leftover channels from your theater for audio zones throughout your house. You can expand to 32 channels at 96 kHz or 64 channels at 48 kHz.
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post #92 of 164 Old 03-01-2014, 07:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks DD, good knowing I can just do this in J River. Love utilizing the iphone remote for it all.

Random other question: thinking of bricking the whole house vs doing the faux stone and hardiboard. Pros/Cons other than the hit to the wallet?

I haven't got a quote yet, just have been talking to others that have.
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post #93 of 164 Old 03-02-2014, 11:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Trying to think about how much I want to sink the theater and the steps I could have poured to avoid building the steps later.

Thinking of curving concave or convex like this going down to theater level, in front of the seats....

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post #94 of 164 Old 03-02-2014, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskerOmaha View Post

Trying to think about how much I want to sink the theater and the steps I could have poured to avoid building the steps later.

Thinking of curving concave or convex like this going down to theater level, in front of the seats....



It's much easier to modify later with wood than concrete in the event you happen to change your mind. Additionally shaping with concrete for perfect symmetry and keeping things level over small spaces such as steps can be challenging. Remember, you're working with "heavy liquid" that wants to follow the path of least resistance and you can't exactly power trowel steps. It's also easier to fasten carpet to wooden stair treads/risers than concrete. Not to mention the cost of labor for concrete steps will likely far outweigh the cost of the lumber to build any shape you want.

You can still get about any finished look you want but I'd suggest making the hole what it needs to be and then fill in the gaps later with the framing of your choice.
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post #95 of 164 Old 04-01-2014, 08:12 PM - Thread Starter
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House is too big for budget, cut out the play room above garage, made garage a bit smaller, and shrunk house upper 2 levels from 3100 to 2600 and should meet with draftsman later this week.



Main Floor

2nd Floor

A few minor changes to these and will get better pics w/dimensions upcoming.


Hope to have similar basement design as before just a bit smaller in the general seating area.
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post #96 of 164 Old 09-15-2014, 03:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Red face

Why do houses take so long to build? Breaking ground this week.

Basement rough-ins and final plan: (theater screen to be on upper left wall/AT screen/rest TBD - reading up on Atmos)...open concept with bar in back of room.
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post #97 of 164 Old 09-15-2014, 03:22 PM
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11/1/2013
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Originally Posted by HuskerOmaha View Post
Alright - designing a 1.5 story house to break ground April/May 2014 and be finished Halloween/Christmas.
9/15/2014
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Breaking ground this week.
I think the theater will be ready by 2018!
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post #98 of 164 Old 09-17-2014, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskerOmaha View Post
Why do houses take so long to build? Breaking ground this week.

Basement rough-ins and final plan: (theater screen to be on upper left wall/AT screen/rest TBD - reading up on Atmos)...open concept with bar in back of room.
Man I know that feeling - we broke ground a few weeks ago and our foundation walls just went up. Waiting for backfill and basement floor to be poured so framing can begin. I swear its agonizing. DO SOMETHING!!!
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post #99 of 164 Old 09-22-2014, 03:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertdome View Post
11/1/2013

9/15/2014

I think the theater will be ready by 2018!
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Originally Posted by bruzer79 View Post
Man I know that feeling - we broke ground a few weeks ago and our foundation walls just went up. Waiting for backfill and basement floor to be poured so framing can begin. I swear its agonizing. DO SOMETHING!!!
Where are you building at?


So just thinking about open theater concepts.....has anyone tried successfully to partially insulate/separate the upstairs (main) level from a basement theater in an open design?

Would hat channel/clips/double drywall help on a ceiling like that? I see new LED can options that I may use instead of doing true cans, they only require a J box.

Just thinking of this ahead of time.

My blueprint got sent back to the builder for clarifications because of a new roof line and larger footprint than his usual. Great.
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post #100 of 164 Old 09-22-2014, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskerOmaha View Post
So just thinking about open theater concepts.....has anyone tried successfully to partially insulate/separate the upstairs (main) level from a basement theater in an open design?

Would hat channel/clips/double drywall help on a ceiling like that? I see new LED can options that I may use instead of doing true cans, they only require a J box.

Just thinking of this ahead of time.

My blueprint got sent back to the builder for clarifications because of a new roof line and larger footprint than his usual. Great.
I would think isolating the ceiling would help a lot. The Soundproofing Company has some good info on this. Will you have a door(s) on the stairs? You could also consider isolating a bedroom or two.
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post #101 of 164 Old 09-23-2014, 11:06 AM - Thread Starter
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I would think isolating the ceiling would help a lot. The Soundproofing Company has some good info on this. Will you have a door(s) on the stairs? You could also consider isolating a bedroom or two.
As we go along and construction finally starts, I'll start putting more documents up. I plan on doing the framing myself this time.

The top of the stairs will have a door...I don't anticipate putting one at the bottom but something to consider.

The bottom half of the basement when looking at the picture will likely go bedroom, bathroom, storage/utility, and workout rooms left to right on the lower 2/5-1/2 of the print. The upper 1/2-3/5 will all be open...
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post #102 of 164 Old 09-23-2014, 12:16 PM
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Where are you building at?.....
Out in the far western burbs of Chicago, 45'ish miles from the big city. Finally got the basement floors poured... tick tock tick tock. Should start framing next week....
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post #103 of 164 Old 09-29-2014, 02:16 PM - Thread Starter
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@desertdome so for different hardwired zones all I need to do is run the wire and speaker locations prior to drywall (thinking all ceiling type stuff other than the main entertainment areas)......(talking for upstairs and main level)....anticipating having a rack by the bedroom in a dual 30 A wired closet for the upper and main level audio/vid.

Basement will have a separate rack in the future.

Guess I'll be getting a Behringer and asking you to be a magic wizard again helping with setup!
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post #104 of 164 Old 09-29-2014, 02:33 PM
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@desertdome so for different hardwired zones all I need to do is run the wire and speaker locations prior to drywall (thinking all ceiling type stuff other than the main entertainment areas)......(talking for upstairs and main level)....anticipating having a rack by the bedroom in a dual 30 A wired closet for the upper and main level audio/vid.

Basement will have a separate rack in the future.

Guess I'll be getting a Behringer and asking you to be a magic wizard again helping with setup!
Yes, sounds good.
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post #105 of 164 Old 10-14-2014, 07:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Cool

Basement design.

I swear if they don't dig my basement this week I'm going to rent some skidloaders
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post #106 of 164 Old 11-04-2014, 04:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Foundation is in and backfill done.

Framing starts Nov 17th.



Wanting to get any suggestions on what you recommend to be pre-wired with the electric which should be before christmas. I want to buy materials and be ready to go when the time is there since it will be around holidays and I want to get it all done before the drywall stage obviously.

Internet connectivity?
TV/Data connections?

In-ceiling speaker options? Saw some JBL stuff in BH photo that looked nice but 149/pop.

Not finishing off basement/main theater area for a few years so have time there.
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post #107 of 164 Old 11-04-2014, 09:50 PM
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That's great news!

Get your speaker wires done for certain. Pull some cat6 and some coax from your media closet down to the basement. Determine where you want your wireless router and ensure you home run your cat 6 runs to it. If you can, try an locate it centrally in the house so you have good signal everywhere in the house.

I'm probably going to bypass the volume control on the outside of the house for the deck speakers now because the receiver apps allow you to control the volume from your phone on zone 2. Make sure you get your speaker wires run back to wherever the multizone receiver will be. Let me know if you want me to swing by after it's framed and we can always do a walk-through too.
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post #108 of 164 Old 11-05-2014, 09:20 AM - Thread Starter
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That's great news!

Get your speaker wires done for certain. Pull some cat6 and some coax from your media closet down to the basement. Determine where you want your wireless router and ensure you home run your cat 6 runs to it. If you can, try an locate it centrally in the house so you have good signal everywhere in the house.

I'm probably going to bypass the volume control on the outside of the house for the deck speakers now because the receiver apps allow you to control the volume from your phone on zone 2. Make sure you get your speaker wires run back to wherever the multizone receiver will be. Let me know if you want me to swing by after it's framed and we can always do a walk-through too.
Thanks Ryan - some addl things I've been thinking:

I might buy a nice 24 port gig switch, and find a nice place in the main floor media closet that routes down to the basement for your network gear. I could put my modem and stuff here as well.

For wireless, I'm thinking of going Ubiquiti. You can get three enterprise level APs for cheap. Put one on every floor. So have em run Ethernet to where those would be as well. They come with nice wall Mount gear.....
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post #109 of 164 Old 11-07-2014, 07:21 AM
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I recently did this myself. I snuck in the weekend before drywall started with 2 1000 ft boxes of cat5e and a couple hundred feet of speaker wire.

I ran 2 cat5e runs per bedroom, 2 to the bonus room, 4 in the family room and 4 in the den. They all terminate in the basement (unfinished for quite a while) under the stairs. I left one cable in the laundry room ceiling to place an access point. Speaker wire left for in ceiling rears (5.1 for now) and possible in walls.

I still need to buy a switch. I need it and the access point to have poe because there's no power in the ceiling where I left the data cable.
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post #110 of 164 Old 11-11-2014, 09:26 AM - Thread Starter
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I recently did this myself. I snuck in the weekend before drywall started with 2 1000 ft boxes of cat5e and a couple hundred feet of speaker wire.

I ran 2 cat5e runs per bedroom, 2 to the bonus room, 4 in the family room and 4 in the den. They all terminate in the basement (unfinished for quite a while) under the stairs. I left one cable in the laundry room ceiling to place an access point. Speaker wire left for in ceiling rears (5.1 for now) and possible in walls.

I still need to buy a switch. I need it and the access point to have poe because there's no power in the ceiling where I left the data cable.
@bruzer79

Best place to buy the CAT cable? I'm going to go with Cat6. Probably going to buy 1000ft box and just do 1 run to each room, a couple to my A/V cabinet, and one to each of the 3 access point locations.

Ordered 750ft of 12ga speaker wire, and the access points...
Ubiquiti APs x 3
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post #111 of 164 Old 11-11-2014, 10:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Main level plan...


Anyone know of a cool way i could mount an IPAD on the master wall to run things off it?

I wonder if my J River could run on my iPAD and my HTPC inside the media cabinet?

Then i wouldn't have to open the media door for music in the house, etc could just run off the ipad wall mounted on the master bedroom wall of the media closet?


Thoughts?
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post #112 of 164 Old 11-11-2014, 10:38 AM - Thread Starter
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post #113 of 164 Old 11-11-2014, 10:51 AM - Thread Starter
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This is kind of cool and not outrageous priced either as long as all my control is wireless to my HTPC

wallee
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post #114 of 164 Old 11-11-2014, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
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Main level plan...


Anyone know of a cool way i could mount an IPAD on the master wall to run things off it?

I wonder if my J River could run on my iPAD and my HTPC inside the media cabinet?

Then i wouldn't have to open the media door for music in the house, etc could just run off the ipad wall mounted on the master bedroom wall of the media closet?

Thoughts?
You have to use the JRemote app to run control JRiver on the iPAD. I think you already own JRemote. Maybe you have to buy a license for each device. I'm not sure. By the way, JRiver now owns JRemote. For complete control of all equipment, lights, and HVAC, I would recommend iRule. There is a large thread here on AVS about iRule. You can even setup custom pages to control JRiver if you want something different than JRemote.

There are thousands of iPad mounts. Just find one you like. Some mounts are docks and provide charging and you can rotate the iPad. Monoprice even sells iPad mounts.

Why do you want it mounted? I would think it would be easier just to carry it around or be able to pick it up and use from the bed. Dlbeck leaves one in his theater for control when downstairs and I think he has one upstairs for control in the rest of the house.
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post #115 of 164 Old 11-11-2014, 12:17 PM - Thread Starter
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You have to use the JRemote app to run control JRiver on the iPAD. I think you already own JRemote. Maybe you have to buy a license for each device. I'm not sure. By the way, JRiver now owns JRemote. For complete control of all equipment, lights, and HVAC, I would recommend iRule. There is a large thread here on AVS about iRule. You can even setup custom pages to control JRiver if you want something different than JRemote.

There are thousands of iPad mounts. Just find one you like. Some mounts are docks and provide charging and you can rotate the iPad. Monoprice even sells iPad mounts.

Why do you want it mounted? I would think it would be easier just to carry it around or be able to pick it up and use from the bed. Dlbeck leaves one in his theater for control when downstairs and I think he has one upstairs for control in the rest of the house.

You are the J River expert, do I need more licenses for my JRemote? I just upgraded to the iphone6, so now I have an ipad and an iphone5 to help apply toward home automation....

I thought there was a cloud way to move over licenses would be nice not to have to buy 2 more.

I just really want to be able to move the ipad around but also have a wall dock so it isn't just sitting around on tables (kids will abuse it try to play games etc).

I'd rather have a dock on the master bedroom wall, then a dock in the great room wall. 2 easy places to know where it should be at all times.

I just want it to control J River or link up to my HTPC even more if possible. If I only need J Remote cool. But it would be nice to open up other applications from my ipad that are on my HTPC:

Kind of like a PC Anywhere application. If not no biggie I'll just have a smart TV or run hdmi to the TV location in the great room.

Kind of rambling, but just looking for fun options since I'm at the framing start on Monday.

Don't really need iRule for the main level. If wife can't easily figure it out and run it I'm just skipping it.

Basement we can do more fun stuff in 5 years or so.
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post #116 of 164 Old 11-11-2014, 12:45 PM
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With Android, I can use apps on any device that I'm logged into my Google account. I have no iOS devices, but I'm sure it is similar.

If you want complete HTPC control, I would probably just use the TeamViewer app on the iPad.
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post #117 of 164 Old 11-11-2014, 01:22 PM - Thread Starter
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If I buy nicer RG6 and run it myself, is it that hard to terminate ends for stuff like RG6, CAT6, etc?

I'm assuming easy one you do it?

RG6 1000ft

Thinking this for an attic antenna:

db4

with the kit

Or save $50 with this and the kit: next best cv4

20% off when I call.
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post #118 of 164 Old 11-11-2014, 04:13 PM
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If I buy nicer RG6 and run it myself, is it that hard to terminate ends for stuff like RG6, CAT6, etc?

I'm assuming easy one you do it?

RG6 1000ft

Thinking this for an attic antenna:

db4

with the kit

Or save $50 with this and the kit: next best cv4

20% off when I call.
Not hard. For RG6 the easiest is use compression fittings, you need a stripper tool and a compression tool.

For CAT6, you use keystone jacks in the rooms and patch panel(s) in the wiring closet. You only need a 110 punch down tool for that.

With those antennas you should be able to tune in KC! I have a ~$20 antenna in the attic above the garage pointing east and I can get easily get all channels in Omaha.
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post #119 of 164 Old 11-12-2014, 07:48 AM
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@bruzer79



Best place to buy the CAT cable? I'm going to go with Cat6. Probably going to buy 1000ft box and just do 1 run to each room, a couple to my A/V cabinet, and one to each of the 3 access point locations.



Ordered 750ft of 12ga speaker wire, and the access points...

Ubiquiti APs x 3

I bought my cat5e from monoprice. I was already ordering speakers from them and their products have always come highly recommended. No complaints yet. I won't be able to work with them for another few weeks.
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post #120 of 164 Old 11-12-2014, 08:03 AM
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You can borrow my RG6 stripper and crimper and my punchdown tool. My punchdown has both 110 and 66 ends. I also have a Fluke Microscanner Pro for verifying the installation and termination of all the Cat6 cables. There was a coax adapter available for it, but it is now discontinued. Perhaps Fluke has a different adapter available for verifying the RG6 installation.

I bought my antenna from Antennas Direct. I think mine is an original DB2. I have it mounted on the roof. I use the HDHomerun tuner that plugs into the router. Any device on the network can access the tuners. JRiver is my DVR and will stream the TV to any of my other devices.
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