Experienced Advice and Opinions for in-closet design and rack - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 5 Old 11-10-2013, 01:53 PM - Thread Starter
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I'd like to begin planning to move my home theater components from the living room to a small coat closet. The closet is directly behind the viewing area facing the opposite direction.

Within the closet I'd like to place a rack. Wiring in power will not be a problem. AC outlet will be located on the left side. Routing in the AV cables to and from the closet should not be much of a problem.
AV cables and wires will be coming in from an opening on the bottom of the back wall.

What I really need are some general ideas for getting behind the rack for general hookup and wiring. It's tight in there! The rack I am interested in is the MA Slim 5 series.

The questions I have for now:
Will it be more a matter of having enough slack in the wires and cables for when I pull out the rack that I'll have enough room to get back there when I pull out the rack?
Will it be better to have the rack on casters or on rails for sliding out?

As of now, the plan is for the rack to be an open rack (no side panels), and to vent the closet to the outside room with small DC fans.

All ideas are welcome as this is the very early idea phase.

Thank you.
Ron

Rack components:
AV Receiver: OnkyoTX-NR709
Cable Box: Cisco 8742HDC
Power Amp: Emotiva XPA-2 (Is there enough closet and rack depth for this beast?)
Game Console: XBox One
Media Player: Oppo BDP-103

Critical closet dimensions:
Depth: 23" (from back wall to inside of door frame); 27" (from back wall to inside of door)
Width: 28.5"



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post #2 of 5 Old 11-10-2013, 05:24 PM
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If you choose a 20" deep slim 5 rack, you should still have room for the bundled cable slack needed to wire everything with the rack outside the closet. Make sure to leave enough slack in your cabling to allow everything to reach the floor from the wall plate location and enter the rack relatively low, then attached to the rack up the point where it breaks off horizontally to its destination. Store excess length inside the rack, keep all your leads from the wall plate as equal of length as possible to make moving the rack easier. Try to keep your power cabling on the opposite side of the rack from your signal and speaker cabling. don't bundle speaker wire with anything else if you can avoid it. I'm a big fan of velcro, you can take it back apart. Tie wraps work too, just leave uncinched, barely fastened, then thread cable though and don't draw down tight until everything is in place and tested. Never a bad idea to test your cabling BEFORE installation either.
(Trying to wire it inside the closet, while do-able, would probably drive you mad......that extra 3-5' of cable will pay for itself pretty quickly, as will a set of MA's commercial grade casters to move that beast without ruining your flooring once it's loaded up)
The Emotiva amp is 19" deep, so the input connectors and speaker wires will likely protrude out the open back of the rack, but still well clear of the wall. Might be beneficial to install some sort of stop/cleat on the floor to ensure you don't push the rack back in too far and damage connectors or pinch cables.
DON"T UNDERESTIMATE HEAT BUILDUP.....do a little math and figure out the volume of space you are trying to vent, and how many cubic feet per minute your fans can move.Fans mounted high in the door (?) to take advantage of convection. Don't forget some sort of intake vent in the door (low) to provide a source of cooler air to exchange with what you are trying to exhaust. Or can you do this out the back?

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post #3 of 5 Old 11-10-2013, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weaselfest View Post

If you choose a 20" deep slim 5 rack, you should still have room for the bundled cable slack needed to wire everything with the rack outside the closet. Make sure to leave enough slack in your cabling to allow everything to reach the floor from the wall plate location and enter the rack relatively low, then attached to the rack up the point where it breaks off horizontally to its destination. Store excess length inside the rack, keep all your leads from the wall plate as equal of length as possible to make moving the rack easier. Try to keep your power cabling on the opposite side of the rack from your signal and speaker cabling. don't bundle speaker wire with anything else if you can avoid it. I'm a big fan of velcro, you can take it back apart. Tie wraps work too, just leave uncinched, barely fastened, then thread cable though and don't draw down tight until everything is in place and tested. Never a bad idea to test your cabling BEFORE installation either.
(Trying to wire it inside the closet, while do-able, would probably drive you mad......that extra 3-5' of cable will pay for itself pretty quickly, as will a set of MA's commercial grade casters to move that beast without ruining your flooring once it's loaded up)
The Emotiva amp is 19" deep, so the input connectors and speaker wires will likely protrude out the open back of the rack, but still well clear of the wall. Might be beneficial to install some sort of stop/cleat on the floor to ensure you don't push the rack back in too far and damage connectors or pinch cables.
DON"T UNDERESTIMATE HEAT BUILDUP.....do a little math and figure out the volume of space you are trying to vent, and how many cubic feet per minute your fans can move.Fans mounted high in the door (?) to take advantage of convection. Don't forget some sort of intake vent in the door (low) to provide a source of cooler air to exchange with what you are trying to exhaust. Or can you do this out the back?

Thanks for the reply.

Understood. Based on your information, I will have the AV cables separated from the power cabling. The AV cables would be coming in from the bottom right side of the rear wall. So, all the slack will be on the ground. I suppose I can pull the cable up so they end up coming into the closet from higher up on the wall. I'm not sure that is necessary, but if it makes it easier, I'm all for it. I say that because the AV cables will be routed along the baseboard just inside the wall of the entertainment room. The power will be coming from an outlet I will install on the lower left wall.

You mentioned intake vents in the lower door. There is a gap between the door and floor tile for the air to be drawn in. Maybe good enough. I am not sure. I can then install fans to vent out the heat from the top of the closet. Any idea for good looking quiet DC fan solutions for wall venting?

I am still open for any and all ideas as I am still in the open flexible design phase.

Please feel free to chime in.

Thanks,
Ron
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post #4 of 5 Old 11-15-2013, 10:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, I am looking for a way to vent the closet. I know exactly what i want to do based on the vast documented experiences here on AVS, but I cannot find what I want. I am looking for a small 6"x6" or 8"x8" good looking flush mount grill. This grill will be mounted to cover both the intake and exhaust ports for room to room ventilation. Meaning venting from high up inside the closet to the hallway. I'll be using a 140mm or 200mm DC fan to pull air out of the closet.
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post #5 of 5 Old 11-15-2013, 12:45 PM
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I've never used Coolerguys, but they seem to be popular.

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