insulation with can lights? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 11-11-2013, 11:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey guy's. I'm not up to this point quite yet but I was thinking about when it comes time for insulation. I wanted to insulate the ceiling to help with sound. I have a bunch of can lights already wired up. My question is when I insulate can I just pack it in around them? These are the can's I used and they say they are IC rated for direct contact with insulation.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-6-in-Recessed-Lighting-Housings-and-Trims-6-Pack-CER105/202025123?N=c7p5#.UoEdovnbPE0

anything I need to worry about there or should do specially?


Thanks

EDIT: But I also used these http://www.homedepot.com/p/Halo-4-in-Non-Insulation-Contact-New-Construction-Housing-H99TAT/100066352?N=c7p5%3FNao%3D48#.UoEjoPnbPE0

6 of these in my sofit celing that is infront of the screen wall. I have duct work that I had frame under so looks like these guy's are not IC rated. mad.gif
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post #2 of 10 Old 11-11-2013, 11:43 AM - Thread Starter
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I suppose since the sofit ceiling is hanging lower then the normal ceiling I could basically insulate up above the can lights and duct work as to help with sound. I know actual sound proofing goes a lot further then just using some insulation but for this build I'm not going to go all out crazy with trying to stop all sound. But I wanted to do at least some good sound proofing type insulation to cut down on the amount of sound going up to the first floor.

Also not to change subjects in my own thread but figured instead of creating a whole new thread I'd add it here.

As for the walls I think I have made a mistake. when building my framed walls I added a vapor barrier on the back side of the wall. So basically there will be a vapor barrier between the concrete and the studs or insulation. There is a bit of a gap between the studs and the concreate but seems i'm reading now (I framed this a few years ago) that this is a bad idea and will cause more problems with mold then without a vapor barrier. Should I just cut out the plastic vapor barrier all together? I really don't have issues with moisture in my basement.
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post #3 of 10 Old 11-12-2013, 12:26 AM
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If you have I/C compatible lights, then yes. Otherwise no. Best to build a sealed box around the lights and insulate around that.
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post #4 of 10 Old 11-12-2013, 12:30 AM
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Vapor barrier should always be on the warm side of the insulation - so unless you are in the tropics, the side facing the room. You do NOT want 2 vapor barriers. I've just cut bunches of holes in kraft facing with a knife before to eliminate the barrier effect rather than pealing off the facing.
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post #5 of 10 Old 11-12-2013, 07:51 AM - Thread Starter
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OK so what I have is a bad idea. I'm glad I found this out! At the time it seemed better then having the insulation against the cold concrete. But I guess it really wont' be pushed up to the concrete since there is a gap from the wood to the concrete wall. And when I put the plastic up I didn't seal it air tight or anything. I think I'll use Roxul safe and sound on the ceiling and the comfortbatt for the walls.

And as far as the cans go My six inchers are the only ones that are in any areas where insulation will need to touch them. My 4 inch cans wich are not IC rated are all in parts of the ceiling where I had to drop down for duct work. So basically they are in sofit's so I'll be insulating well above them.

Here you can see what I mean. The lights in the high part of the celing are ic rated. The ones in the lower part of the ceiling are not but if I insulate above them up between the floor joist's I will be a few feet above the cans. and most of it will have duct work between the cans and insulation.

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post #6 of 10 Old 11-12-2013, 09:25 PM
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Nice to put an OSB or MDF solid box around the cans to stop sound - the cans are pretty open sieves - then insulate outside of the boxes, but I think you are OK, depending how silent you are going for. Is there living space above this room?
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post #7 of 10 Old 11-13-2013, 07:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes its just off the mainiving room. But I'm not sure how often someone would be in the while down in the man cave. Will see maybe I'll do the box thing.
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post #8 of 10 Old 11-13-2013, 11:10 PM
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My worry was bedrooms above. I would say nice to box, but not imperative. What is the upper floor? Subfloor+underlayment+pad+carpet I hope.
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post #9 of 10 Old 11-14-2013, 07:58 AM - Thread Starter
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The bedrooms are up another level. So the only concern I have for sound to go up there is through the duct work. But I don't think I'm going to spend time and money on that unless it's something simple that can help. Other then that The floor above this area and the whole first floor for that matter is carpet. Oh I suppose the kitchen though is tile. Eventually I'll be changing that to hard wood but that is on the other side of the house.
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post #10 of 10 Old 11-14-2013, 09:51 PM
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On the ducts, anything that is open in the theater and bedrooms upstairs? If the ducts go through the theater, wrap them in fiberglass sheet duct insulation, then stuff more fiberglass batting around them filling any air space between them and the theater's walls/ceiling.


Cycling back to an earlier comment on vapor barriers. If the warm air is still damp when it moves through the insulation, then hits a cold vapor barrier, it will condense there - but if it hits the barrier first, on still the warm side of the insulation, it won't pass through, nor will it condense, but will remain vapor in the room, which is what you want.
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