Drywall-less theater? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 11-13-2013, 11:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Just moved into a new house. Theater room is small, about 11' x 13.5'. It was wood paneled, but I've torn that off. No insulation behind it. The plan was to insulate and drywall. I was going to recruit a friend and do it ourselves. But we've never done it before, don't have drywall screwguns, and would probably need to rent a hoist to put 5/8" (70+lb) sheets on the ceiling. There is also a weird area by the door with some kooky angles where the stairs go up and partially through the room that looks tricky to do. My lowest estimate to have someone else do it was $800 and that's not including materials.

So now I'm wondering if there are alternatives. I'm going to cover the walls, ceiling, and floor with black felt and black velvet, so the look of the walls is a non-issue. It's just me and my wife here, and 90% of the time we'll be watching movies together, so soundproofing is essentially a non-issue as well.

Is there any reason not to just put in insulation -- more to improve the sound of the room rather than soundproof it -- and staple the velvet and felt right to the studs?
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post #2 of 9 Old 11-13-2013, 12:00 PM
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I don't know where you are and I'm sure local codes vary somewhat but I'm guessing the fire marshall won't like that idea...

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post #3 of 9 Old 11-13-2013, 11:08 PM
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Yeah, fire code requires fire-resistant walls. Drywall isn't that hard. Buy a $50 rechargable drill - you will find all sorts of uses for it. Use 1/2" rather than 5/8 for weight. You can make a T-brace from 2x4s to hold up the ceiling sheets. If you want to cover the walls with fabric, this is the perfect room to practice on. For fire code you still have to tape and mud the seams and corners, but they don't need to be perfect if you are covering everything.
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post #4 of 9 Old 11-14-2013, 03:19 PM
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For putting in on the ceiling, just go to home depot and rent a drywall lift. It costs about $40 per day where I live I think. They could charge double or triple that and it would still be worth every penny.

Buy a cordless drill and get the drywall screw attachment. It will make putting in screws much easier. Get a box of the 1.5" drywall screws (they're the orange box at home depot).

Cutting drywall is very simple. Just use an utility knife one one side and then break the drywall to the other side. When it is broken, separate it by cutting with a utility knife. There's probably hundreds of videos on Youtube to show exactly how to do that.

Putting up drywall may seem intimidating, but is really isn't hard at all. The hard and time consuming part is tape and mud, but if you are covering the wall with something else, it isn't that important. You can always do that later if you decide to take off your wall coverings.

Good luck!

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post #5 of 9 Old 11-19-2013, 11:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. I have a friend who is a remodeler coming out to help so it should go okay.
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post #6 of 9 Old 11-19-2013, 01:18 PM
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Why not just do some soffits to clean up those staircase angles?
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post #7 of 9 Old 11-19-2013, 02:53 PM
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Once someone shows you the ropes it's just work, I doubt you'll have an issue. If you ever plan to paint a screen right on the wall (and even if you don't) make sure you go factory edge to factory edge and use the widest knife you can find to do the mud in those areas.
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post #8 of 9 Old 11-19-2013, 09:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

Why not just do some soffits to clean up those staircase angles?

For one thing, I don't know what that means wink.gif

Also, I don't really know what to do over there anyway -- there are no joists over there to attach the ceiling drywall to.
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post #9 of 9 Old 11-20-2013, 05:02 PM
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Is this open then?

I was suggesting using metal stud track and some wood uprights, to create a soffit that boxes out
those angles, to visually remove them from the room. Here's my soffits in my 9'5" wide room in the
basement. The right hand side soffit is HVAC sheet metal and there's an S curve that the "front" soffit
disguises. The sheet metal goes to the front and turns left to the outer wall. An acoustically transparent front
wall and screen runs set back an inch under that soffit. Lots going on, but hidden from view. You would be hiding
those kooky angles instead of HAVC sheet metal.

soffit.jpg 123k .jpg file

Have a picture of the those "kooky angles"?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg soffit.jpg (122.9 KB, 15 views)
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