DJEarl's Basement Build - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 141 Old 03-17-2014, 09:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi Gang,

Long time user of AVS forum and the members here have never sent me in the wrong direction. You've helped me install a theater in my first house, get all my components in the basement in my current house, hang plenty of TVs on thee walls, and will hopefully come along for the ride as I finish the basement in the next few months. Please feel free to chime in with ideas, ways to do things better, and just overall comments.

Planning to finish an area about 15' X 45' to house a pool table, general Theater/TV area, and a blank space for some bigger kid's toys. We'll put in a 10' X 10' half bath along with a 10' X 10' utility room. The lumber, foam sheathing (insulation R10), Roxul (safe and Sound) ceiling insulation, and moisture/mold resistant drywall have been ordered. Planning to get started in about two weeks.

My deadline to finish is fast approaching. My wife and I are expecting our second child in July....so the clock is ticking. If all goes well I can wrap it up by early June, which will give the carpet company a few weeks to install carpet before the due date. Couldn't do this project without my family. They rock!

Here's the basic floorplan.


Sketchup:




Before Pictures:






Current Media "Closet"


I'm confused too.

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post #2 of 141 Old 03-24-2014, 10:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Let the fun begin. The guys from the lumber yard were awesome in carrying things down.






I'm confused too.


Last edited by djearl81; 07-03-2014 at 11:08 AM.
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post #3 of 141 Old 03-27-2014, 11:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Insulation is almost finished, going to install an electrical sub-panel, base pump (secondary sump pump powered by water supply), and toilet so those areas are still clear. The last picture shows it, but we installed 2" Foamular 250 against the wall (R10) and then came back around with a 3/4" foamular 250 (R4) for a total R-value of R14. Glued all the seems on the 2" foam. (The recommended tape was really hard to find and was $35 for a 90' roll). Used two types of Liquid Nails. Started with the brown label Panel and Foam. That didn't work as well as I'd hoped, so tried the red "Projects" glue next. The projects glue seemed to grab much better and was cheaper. Both recommended for foam panel applications. Must have used literally 100 tubes of glue.






I'm confused too.

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post #4 of 141 Old 03-27-2014, 11:45 AM - Thread Starter
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So now the fun stuff...

The plan is to have 2'x2' drop ceiling tiles around the perimeter of the ceiling, then run 2 drop ceiling race ways dividing the large space into 3rds. I think that'll provide enough access to the ceiling for future changes. It should also give a coffered ceiling effect in the main living areas.

I plan on wiring for 4 TV locations. One at each end of the basement, one for the projector, and another in the bar area at the bottom of the steps (the open area left of the utility room), and one in the ceiling for the projector. Was thinking of 4 cat 6 cables to each location. 2 for HDMI over cat6, 1 for TV network, 1 for IR. It's a small enough space that I could get away with an HDMI run to each place. Also planning to run component cable so I can run the Wii in any spot. Finally conduit to each location. Any thoughts on this? If it was your place, what would you do?

Speaker wise, I'm planning to have one main area with 5.1 or 7.1 sound. Then 2 sets of in wall/ceiling speakers in the other spots (by the steps and by the bar.). I'm on the fence about an in-wall sub-woofer. I can block the wall and fill it with insulation, but if a free standing sub is better, perhaps that's the way to go. I'd like to hide the speakers as this will double as a playroom. Looking at Monoprice and HTD to keep the electronics cost down...any feelings one way or the other? Looking to control everything with a Harmony or similar remote control. Also hoping to have network control via smart phone.

I'm confused too.

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post #5 of 141 Old 03-29-2014, 01:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Started Framing Today....

I'm confused too.

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post #6 of 141 Old 03-31-2014, 08:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djearl81 View Post

So now the fun stuff...

The plan is to have 2'x2' drop ceiling tiles around the perimeter of the ceiling, then run 2 drop ceiling race ways dividing the large space into 3rds. I think that'll provide enough access to the ceiling for future changes. It should also give a coffered ceiling effect in the main living areas.

I plan on wiring for 4 TV locations. One at each end of the basement, one for the projector, and another in the bar area at the bottom of the steps (the open area left of the utility room), and one in the ceiling for the projector. Was thinking of 4 cat 6 cables to each location. 2 for HDMI over cat6, 1 for TV network, 1 for IR. It's a small enough space that I could get away with an HDMI run to each place. Also planning to run component cable so I can run the Wii in any spot. Finally conduit to each location. Any thoughts on this? If it was your place, what would you do?

Speaker wise, I'm planning to have one main area with 5.1 or 7.1 sound. Then 2 sets of in wall/ceiling speakers in the other spots (by the steps and by the bar.). I'm on the fence about an in-wall sub-woofer. I can block the wall and fill it with insulation, but if a free standing sub is better, perhaps that's the way to go. I'd like to hide the speakers as this will double as a playroom. Looking at Monoprice and HTD to keep the electronics cost down...any feelings one way or the other? Looking to control everything with a Harmony or similar remote control. Also hoping to have network control via smart phone.
Wow. You have a nice large space to use. I too am in the middle of a build and thought I had pretty much of the general design done when I started. Luckily for me, there's been a lot of sweat equity involved because I'm also designing a lot of the details as I go along. You can't do that if a contractor is doing the build. smile.gif For the first time I'm also trying out the HDMI Extender over CAT6. I bought a kit from Monoprice as well as a lot of other audio and wiring stuff. However they recommend using CAT6 STP which is shielded twisted pair. My space is also going to include my office, so wanted the availability of sending my computer output to my 65" plasma. I had already run regular CAT5e, so will probably rip that out and install the CAT6 cable. I'm only running about 35' and the HDMI Extender is good up to about 200' so I should be good. I'm doing a cable chase across the length of my room for the low-voltage stuff. It's not necessary when installing a drop ceiling, but I like the neater look and organization of the wires. I read on another thread where a guy installed 3" PVC with pull cables from one location to another, so he could easily upgrade cables to newer formats down the road with different wire. Seems like a smart move if you think something might change over the next 10 yrs. smile.gif Probably will!

I ran Monoprice speaker wire to all surround locations and all my cables will terminate in a 28" Leviton Structured Media enclosure in my server/shop room. I want the ability to 'patch' in different front speaker from my Pioneer receiver easily. I will have 2, 12" subs @ 120watts each. I bought a couple of Dayton Audio subs in January on sale. These were the ones. I don't think you can go wrong with Monoprice for all your 'hook-up' and in-wall speaker needs. We moved into a new(old) home last year and my teenage son wanted to put a couple of in-wall speakers in his bedroom. He bought some Monoprice ones and I helped him install them. They sound good for what he wanted, and he doesn't play them too load. smile.gif I bought a pair later thinking I may use them in my media room, but still not sure. I may opt for much smaller satellite speakers mounted on wall brackets for the rear-surround and 8" round in-ceiling speakers for the back speakers. See, still designing!

Anyway, it looks like you are off to a good start. How much sound-proofing are you planning one doing? Double drywall with clips? Double drywall with Green Glue? I'm having a blast doing my room, but is taking longer than planned, but I'm okay with that. All my electrical is in, and most of the low-voltage wiring in place. I'm meeting the Electrical Inspector later today for an in-progress review, just to make sure what I'm doing will pass his 'sniff test'. He's a nice guy though and came out before I started and answered a few questions I had, so I don't expect any issues.

Keep the pictures coming. - Rick

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post #7 of 141 Old 03-31-2014, 11:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Rick. In terms of soundproofing we are going to put Roxul Safe and Sound insulation in the ceiling. My brother in law used it in his house and has been very happy with the sound dampening. We're planning to do a drop ceiling in some places, so doubling up on drywall might not prove too useful in my case. We are going to put furring strips on the ceiling both to hold the roxul in place, and to give clearance to the gas line that runs under the main floor joists.

Thanks for the opinion on the monoprice speakers. We put a few of the monoprice brand in my parent's basement a year or two ago. They sound good as secondary speakers. I'm not going to pretend I can hear a huge difference (if any at all) between different speaker brands, was just looking for some suggestions on monoprice vs HTD vs other bang for the buck speakers. I've been using monoprice wires (speaker, HDMI, component, etc...) for the better part of 10 years and have been very happy with their products.

For your cat5/cat6 scenario - You might as well try the cat5 if it's already there. You might save an hour of running new wire. The conduit idea is a great idea. We use the rule of thumb "run every wire you might need outside the conduit, then run empty conduit for all the wires you'll need later."

I'm confused too.

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post #8 of 141 Old 03-31-2014, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djearl81 View Post

Thanks Rick. In terms of soundproofing we are going to put Roxul Safe and Sound insulation in the ceiling. My brother in law used it in his house and has been very happy with the sound dampening. We're planning to do a drop ceiling in some places, so doubling up on drywall might not prove too useful in my case. We are going to put furring strips on the ceiling both to hold the roxul in place, and to give clearance to the gas line that runs under the main floor joists.

Thanks for the opinion on the monoprice speakers. We put a few of the monoprice brand in my parent's basement a year or two ago. They sound good as secondary speakers. I'm not going to pretend I can hear a huge difference (if any at all) between different speaker brands, was just looking for some suggestions on monoprice vs HTD vs other bang for the buck speakers. I've been using monoprice wires (speaker, HDMI, component, etc...) for the better part of 10 years and have been very happy with their products.

For your cat5/cat6 scenario - You might as well try the cat5 if it's already there. You might save an hour of running new wire. The conduit idea is a great idea. We use the rule of thumb "run every wire you might need outside the conduit, then run empty conduit for all the wires you'll need later."

I've decided to use double drywall if for no other reason but to help quiet the room. I will also be using either Roxul, or some other fluffy pink stuff on all interior walls. Soundproofing is part of my overall strategy, but not the over-riding criteria. My brother built a 2-channel listening room several years ago and I got a chance to see and hear it 2 years ago. He doesn't even have a door on it, and as soon as you enter, you can immediately tell how quiet the room is. Dead quiet. That's part of what I want to achieve first with proper mass, damping and absorption. Given the location of my room, total isolation is not critical.

Yeah, I've been using Monoprice for about 10 years too. This project is bigger than most and between my son and I, we keep coming up with a list of stuff we need from them. The last order was the largest and hopefully the last for a while. smile.gif I did pick up a pair of 8" Parasound in-ceiling speakers on clearance at Audio Advisors a couple weeks ago. At $50 each I thought they would be worth a try for my back surround speakers. We'll see.

You have a point about the CAT5e and one I thought about. I haven't ripped it out yet, but it would not be a big deal to do - especially since the drop-ceiling is not up yet. I may just prefer to start with the CAT6 to avoid any problems from the get go. I like your rule of thumb about the conduit. I was thinking the same thing, but have not installed any yet. But for future use it makes a lot of sense. BTW, my electrical inspector gave me a big thumbs up. Said I was doing everything just fine and I would have no problems. I didn't think I would, but it's reassuring to hear it from the inspector! - Rick

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post #9 of 141 Old 04-02-2014, 02:11 PM - Thread Starter
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So it's spring time in the midwest and that means rain. We have an Egress window that likes to collect water when it rains. So, the builder put a drain in the bottom of the window well and ran it about 4 feet to the sump pit. Knock on wood, we haven't had any trouble as the electricity hasn't cut off long enough for the sump pit to fill. However, I wanted to install a backup system in case it ever did. Hopefully the backup system doesn't have to run...but if it does I wanted to be free of batteries and electricity. The solution we chose was the water powered base pump.

Thanks to U.C. for installing it. Ran a new 3/4" pex supply line. (The main section is hidden by the header in the picture). Since the basement walls are 9' tall, the suction pipe length limit of 10' puts us a little below the ideal discharge height. (Remember the 10' section of pipe starts in the bottom of the pit.) The manufacturer says that they included a funnel to catch any leaks from the vacuum breaker. The supplied funnel isn't going to work as it's too small. So, the choice is to remove the AVB or to put a larger funnel under the AVB and drain that water in the sump pump as well. According to the manufacturer, putting the base pump closer to the ceiling would decrease the effectiveness since the suction pipe would require more pressure.

The backup sump we chose (RB750-EZ).


Here's the second float in the in the pit:

I'm confused too.

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post #10 of 141 Old 04-03-2014, 01:20 PM - Thread Starter
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So... the base pump didn't work in that location. It's been raining hard for more than 10 hours straight. Had to get up with my wife and daughter this morning and go into the basement. The tornado sirens started to go off about 5:15 am. Luckily the primary sump pump has been up to the challenge. U.C. was here most of the day again moving the base pump to it's final home. I think we are both happy with it and it did drain the sump pit (although very slowly) with water pouring in from the Egress window due to the heavy rain and the city water from the base pump getting dumped right into the problem spot.

I'll be heading outside when it gets a little nicer to tie the base pump discharge into the existing drain that daylights in front of the house. In addition, I'll be doing a little ditch digging to get the water away from the Egress window to start with. While I'm out there I'll put some foam panels on the exterior apron of that side.

Anyway, picture is worth a thousand words.

Added about 2.5 feet of pipe to the suction pipe. All in all it's about 10.5 feet long and has two 45 degrees angles to get into the sump pit. It takes a few seconds to start siphoning the water from the pit, but it does work. As an added bonus, the issue with the leaky AVB isn't a problem anymore as the discharge pipe has a bit of a downward slope to the outside.




Talk about a good looking bracket. wink.gif

I'm confused too.

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post #11 of 141 Old 04-03-2014, 09:02 PM
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I don't envy you for having water issues. Dealing with a sump pump can be a real hassle. I've been fortunate to get dry basements with the last 2 homes I've bought. Thankfully. Anyway, it looks like you've got it managed well now, so you can get on with the build-out. Keep the pictures coming. I really need to start my thread, but I have little time as it is. Maintaining a thread takes time. frown.gif I've got a little more electrical to finish up and some insulation to install and I think I can have the inspector back. - Rick

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post #12 of 141 Old 04-04-2014, 05:50 AM - Thread Starter
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The first wall I've ever framed by myself. Is it perfect? Absolutely not. Is it plumb and square...you bet.


I'm confused too.

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post #13 of 141 Old 04-05-2014, 01:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Made some good headway on the framing today. All the exterior walls are framed thanks to U.C., U. R., and D. Planning to start the interior walls on Monday. With any luck, we'll be framed out by Tuesday. Then it'd be on to the electrical and plumbing rough-ins.



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I'm confused too.

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post #14 of 141 Old 04-07-2014, 12:17 PM
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I noticed your lights and assuming they are all run off one switch. Are you planning on leaving existing fixtures or replacing? I have the same issue and need to determine what I want to do with lights.

"Damn, you can't get black levels like that on your projector!"
- My brother, just before he realized his LED display had died.

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post #15 of 141 Old 04-07-2014, 01:58 PM - Thread Starter
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My crew made some progress today while I was at work. Thanks to U.C., U.R., and D!

The interior walls are starting to take shape. There are many ways to layout a basement. I think we are starting to understand each other...which is scary. smile.gif




Fastened the 2X6 header to the steel beam with liquid nails (Interior projects) and a few 2" ramset nails. The original builder put 3 ramset nails in the existing wall under the beam, we continued the spacing all the way through. The plan is to build a few arches to break up the monotony of the long solid wall. The long wall will get divided into three sections and each will get an arch. About 2-3" inches from the wall for effect. The opening to the bar area will get an arch the width of the beam. Then when we build the bar we can arch the top of it to mirror the rest of the arches. Could be cool. Long story short...that's why the 2X6 header under the large span under the beam.


Here's an early look at the "wall of doors". All of them will be slightly different in both size and style. The utility room will get a 5' louvered double door for ventilation and access to the front service panel. The bathroom will get a 30" 6 panel door. The closet by the wall will get a 28" bi-fold 6 panel door. I made the mistake of ordering the doors for 2x4 walls. We framed with 2X6 in this section. If you are ordering doors, the wall width does matter. They sell jamb extensions, but there's more to ordering doors than meets the eye. (swing direction, in/out, style, hardware style, etc...)

I'm confused too.

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post #16 of 141 Old 04-07-2014, 02:09 PM - Thread Starter
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I noticed your lights and assuming they are all run off one switch. Are you planning on leaving existing fixtures or replacing? I have the same issue and need to determine what I want to do with lights.

Hi Conspiracy. The lights are all on pull strings at the moment with the exception of the one at the bottom of the steps. (That one is on a switch from the original builder.)

Our thought is to divide the main area into three zones. They'll be one area for the TV/projector, another area for the pool table, and then an open rec room in the middle (future site of a poker table a few years down the road). Each zone would have it's own switch. The pool table/ping pong table will have task lighting. The bar area would get it's own switch (most likely with the main entry way). The bathroom will get it's own lights with a main overhead and a mirror lamp. The utility room will get a florescent light on either side of the furnace. The storage room will also get a few florescent lights to brighten up the corners.

For the fixtures, my wife and I have always talked about recessed lighting. I like the look of the 4" cans, but I'd need to add a number more to get the same lumens from 6" cans. The local electric supplier recommended 20 cans for the main area if that helps you. He said there's no real set standard. We're planning to use 6" Juno cans with LED trims. Seems like you could go round and round comparing Juno to Halo.

I'm confused too.

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post #17 of 141 Old 04-07-2014, 02:21 PM - Thread Starter
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After a few modifications to the floor plan, here's the dimensions at this stage of framing. We decided to leave the door to the basement in place and then extend the bar wall to meet the current door wall. That let us take some square footage from storage and put it in the bar area. We've got a post holding the steel beam about 15" from the basement door. After some brainstorming we decided to build a custom pool rack that'll fit in the alcove between the post and the existing wall. Doing this will keep the pool table room right about 13' 10" wide. I believe the recommended room width for a 9' pool table is 14' for the largest standard cue size. So I'll have to pick up a stub cue when you need the last 2" on that wall.


I'm confused too.

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post #18 of 141 Old 04-07-2014, 02:46 PM - Thread Starter
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I could use your help please. What do you think about this AV setup?

Planning speaker locations and pre-wires for TVs and projectors. Was thinking the main TV area by the couches would get the usual left, center, right, as well as left/right surround treatment. (I think 5.1 is plenty for me.) We'll pre-wire the wall with the projection screen for a TV in case we go that way in the future. The other TV pre-wires will be by the pool table and behind the bar. Finally the last pre-wire will be for the projector itself in the ceiling behind the couch.

For the pre-wires I was thinking 4 cat6 cables. Two would be available for HDMI signal distribution, one for wired network to the TV, and one for the IR signals. Since I've got access, I think I'll go ahead and run an HDMI cable to each spot as well as conduit. Everything will get ran back into the storage area where it'll join the main floor AV equipment. Any thoughts?

Lastly, I could use some input regarding subwoofers. Have folks had good experiences with in wall subs? The other speakers in the basement will be in wall or in ceiling...would like to keep that going with the sub if it doesn't degrade the performance of the audio too much.

Here's the A/V layout idea...again, would appreciate any input. Thanks!

I'm confused too.

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post #19 of 141 Old 04-08-2014, 01:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Today's progress. Thanks to the usual suspects. The only thing left to frame is the closet by the bathroom and the wall around the entry post. Then the HVAC, electrical, and plumbing can get started. The plumbing shouldn't be too bad as it's only a half bath in the basement. The bar area will get a sink, and we're toying with a slop sink in the basement.

Knee wall in the bar area will have an access panel to the pipe clean out. Making this little wall gave us another foot or so for the bar area.


Future bar area. The fridge will get pushed back into the utility room. When service is needed, we'll wheel the fridge out a few feet to give access.


This is the entry to the basement. The custom cue rack is going to go between the post and the existing wall.




Initial low voltage order. Through Monoprice of course.
IR Signal - Yellow
Network - Green
TV1 A/V - 30' Blue
TV2 A/V - 75' Red
TV3 A/V - 50' Gray
Projector A/V - Purple


PID Product Qty Qty. Shipped
3846 500ft 16AWG CL2 Rated 2-Conductor Loud Speaker Cable (For In-Wall Installation) 2 2
5025 30FT 24AWG Cat6 550MHz UTP Ethernet Bare Copper Network Cable - Yellow 1 1
2326 50FT 24AWG Cat6 550MHz UTP Ethernet Bare Copper Network Cable - Yellow 2 2
2327 50FT 24AWG Cat6 550MHz UTP Ethernet Bare Copper Network Cable - Purple 2 2
5033 75FT 24AWG Cat6 550MHz UTP Ethernet Bare Copper Network Cable - Yellow 1 1
5020 30FT 24AWG Cat6 550MHz UTP Ethernet Bare Copper Network Cable - Green 1 1
2322 50FT 24AWG Cat6 550MHz UTP Ethernet Bare Copper Network Cable - Gray 2 2
2324 50FT 24AWG Cat6 550MHz UTP Ethernet Bare Copper Network Cable - Green 2 2
5028 75FT 24AWG Cat6 550MHz UTP Ethernet Bare Copper Network Cable - Green 1 1
5031 75FT 24AWG Cat6 550MHz UTP Ethernet Bare Copper Network Cable - Red 2 2
2110 50ft 24AWG CL2 Standard HDMI® Cable - Black 1 1
2831 35ft Premium Optical Toslink Cable w/ Metal Fancy Connector 1 1
3448 75ft PREMIUM Optical Toslink Cable w/ Metal Fancy Connector 1 1
5018 30FT 24AWG Cat6 550MHz UTP Ethernet Bare Copper Network Cable - Blue 2 2
5872 100ft High-quality Coaxial Audio/Video RCA CL2 Rated Cable - RG6/U 75ohm (for S/PDIF, Digital Coax, Subwoofer & Composite Video) 1 1
6055 35ft 24AWG CL2 Standard HDMI® Cable With Ethernet - Black 1 1

I'm confused too.

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post #20 of 141 Old 04-08-2014, 01:13 PM
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Where's the dust? Where are the bad joints, the split boards? I am finishing my basement too, and I am jealous of how clean your construction is.

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post #21 of 141 Old 04-08-2014, 01:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RBalwinski View Post

Where's the dust? Where are the bad joints, the split boards? I am finishing my basement too, and I am jealous of how clean your construction is.

It's amazing what a bad lighting can do to pictures. smile.gif

Thanks RBalwinski. There's dust and a few split boards not to mention a few rogue nails. I do what I can to cleanup in the evenings after my daughter goes to bed. I think I made the most mess carrying some of the drywall downstairs. I hit the same part of the main floor wall every trip down. I promised my wife I'd prep and paint it as soon as the basement was finished. No sense in fixing it now because I'm sure I'll just ruin it again.

I'm confused too.

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post #22 of 141 Old 04-09-2014, 12:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's the basic schema for the home AV system. Any thoughts?

The speaker selector would need to be big enough to handle 7 zones. The 6 in the picture plus another pair of speakers in the kitchen. (Wires are there, but no speakers today.)



Any TV3 and TV4 in the basement are solely for "future" proofing in case we'd like to add them down the line.

I'm confused too.

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post #23 of 141 Old 04-09-2014, 01:09 PM - Thread Starter
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These sites helped me figure out lighting:

http://maximlighting.com/fpage_lighting_need.aspx

http://www.steves-digicams.com/knowledge-center/how-tos/film-and-video-production/how-to-convert-foot-candle-measurement.html

Edited lighting schema. The can lights were hung by the pool table with care....

- 22 bulbs in the main area. 2 extra over the pool table.
- 3 recessed cans in the bar area controlled by the switch in the stairwell.
- Track lighting ~ 24" from back bar wall (Task lighting)
- Utility room will get two basic bulb fixtures and have a receptacle for a work light
- Storage room gets 3 long fluorescent fixtures.


I'm confused too.

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post #24 of 141 Old 04-09-2014, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djearl81 View Post

Here's the basic schema for the home AV system. Any thoughts?

The speaker selector would need to be big enough to handle 7 zones. The 6 in the picture plus another pair of speakers in the kitchen. (Wires are there, but no speakers today.)



Any TV3 and TV4 in the basement are solely for "future" proofing in case we'd like to add them down the line.

Not sure I fully understand the diagram. Are you running audio and video via HDMI from each of your devices to BOTH receivers? The xbox and your uverse boxes only have 1 HDMI out right?

"Damn, you can't get black levels like that on your projector!"
- My brother, just before he realized his LED display had died.

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post #25 of 141 Old 04-09-2014, 01:24 PM
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Also is it possible to get that may speakers and speaker locations out of 2 dual zoned recievers? I am by no means an expert when it comes to that but I was under the impression that you were limited on your second zone. Again I'm sorry if I'm wrong or missunderstanding your diagram.

Build is looking good BTW!

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post #26 of 141 Old 04-10-2014, 06:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Not sure I fully understand the diagram. Are you running audio and video via HDMI from each of your devices to BOTH receivers? The xbox and your uverse boxes only have 1 HDMI out right?

Yes, was going to attempt an HDMI splitter for this. Both receivers are about 2 feet away from each other on a shelf in the basement. Since the XBox controllers are wireless I think they'll work just fine. The Kinect is another story. It looks like we'll have to move the Wii to various spots when we want to use it...unless we can find a wireless sensor bar that works well. We'll test two splitting the Uverse boxes and see how that goes. Would be cool to be able to watch either box in either location. If we need to go the matrix route, I'm willing to try that...but running the wires will come first regardless. (Will test the cables before they are installed, but won't test the switching until later in the project.)

I'm confused too.

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post #27 of 141 Old 04-10-2014, 06:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gec5741 View Post

Also is it possible to get that may speakers and speaker locations out of 2 dual zoned recievers? I am by no means an expert when it comes to that but I was under the impression that you were limited on your second zone. Again I'm sorry if I'm wrong or missunderstanding your diagram.

Build is looking good BTW!

Thanks Gec. I think it'll power that many if I go to a speaker selector first. We currently have the 2 front porch speakers, the 4 back patio speakers, and 2 speakers in the basement powered off zone 2 of a Yamaha RX-V550. Currently using a speaker selector similiar to this: http://www.outdoorspeakerdepot.com/dsduso4zosps1.html The downside is that I have to manually go downstairs to pick different speakers. If I could find a reasonable solution with a remote, bluetooth or wifi I'd be all over it.

I'm confused too.

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post #28 of 141 Old 04-10-2014, 08:39 AM
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interesting. I was looking to possibly use a dual zone reciever to power my bar area 5.1 and then power my backyard patio. Again I'm not to up on how all that works. Thanks for the link.
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post #29 of 141 Old 04-11-2014, 09:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Currently have access to these projectors. Any thoughts on either one? Any preferences? I have yet to do a side by side comparison.
Infocus SP4805: http://www.projectorcentral.com/InFocus-SP_4805.htm
JVC DLA-SX21: http://www.projectorcentral.com/JVC-DLA-SX21U.htm

Calculating throw distance, Projector Central says I need...

Infocus SP4805:
Option 1: 15' 5" between the lens and the screen for a 110" diagonal screen size. (15" Offset from top of screen to lens, with minor keystone correction)
Option 2: 11' 10" between the lens and the screen for a 76" diagonal screen size. (10" Offset from top of screen to lens, with minor keystone correction)
http://www.projectorcentral.com/InFocus-SP_4805-projection-calculator-pro.htm

JVC DLA-SX21:
Option 1: 20' 3" between the lens and the screen for a 135" diagonal screen size.
Option 2: 16' 5" between the lens and the screen for a 110" diagonal screen size.
http://www.projectorcentral.com/JVC-DLA-SX21U-projection-calculator-pro.htm

I'm confused too.

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post #30 of 141 Old 04-14-2014, 10:26 AM
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Both of those JVC throws look really far for the screen sizes selected. Do you already own these projectors?

"Damn, you can't get black levels like that on your projector!"
- My brother, just before he realized his LED display had died.

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