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post #61 of 100 Old 01-15-2017, 06:20 AM
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I will be holding off on a new TV. I'm going to stick with my 65" Panasonic Plasma for now as I'm upgrading around it as it's not as old as my other equipment was - Denon 3805 to Denon 4300, Polk 505 to SVS PB2000 (2nd one coming soon), Atmos height speakers, Behringer A500 amp to Mono7 amp. I had a preorder for the new Oppo UHD player, but since it doesn't have streaming apps, I am holding off until I get a smart TV with those streaming apps. I will stick with the BD93 for now. Plus, I need to desperately get some better seating in the basement. I’m trying hard to stick with my original plan to update the old stuff first. This gives me time to explore/research all the lovely tv options out there and to get all of you guy's feedback.

Have you tried some of the download samples of the the Atmos/DTS:X yet. If not, you should to really get a sense of the immersiveness from clips that are specifically design to exploit them.


http://www.demo-world.eu/2d-demo-trailers-hd/
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HT Configuration: 7.2.4 l Panasonic Plasma (65") l Denon X4300H l Polk LSiM 707s, 706c, FXi-30 l Infinity ERS-610 l SVS PB-2000 (2x) l Monolith 7 l Behringer A500 (2x) l Oppo BD-93 l MH mmf-9.3 l Cassette Deck.

"Never be afraid to try something new, remember amateurs build the Ark, professionals built the Titanic"

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post #62 of 100 Old 01-15-2017, 09:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Methodical_1 View Post
I will be holding off on a new TV. I'm going to stick with my 65" Panasonic Plasma for now as I'm upgrading around it as it's not as old as my other equipment was - Denon 3805 to Denon 4300, Polk 505 to SVS PB2000 (2nd one coming soon), Atmos height speakers, Behringer A500 amp to Mono7 amp. I had a preorder for the new Oppo UHD player, but since it doesn't have streaming apps, I am holding off until I get a smart TV with those streaming apps. I will stick with the BD93 for now. Plus, I need to desperately get some better seating in the basement. I’;m trying hard to stick with my original plan to update the old stuff first. This gives me time to explore/research all the lovely tv options out there and to get all of you guy's feedback.

Have you tried some of the download samples of the the Atmos/DTS:X yet. If not, you should to really get a sense of the immersiveness from clips that are specifically design to exploit them.


http://www.demo-world.eu/2d-demo-trailers-hd/
I think your plan is a good one and you're fortunate to have that 65" plasma (IOW, good plan). An upgrade plan was actually what I started on with my UHD TV and later the Yamaha -- however, that led to an avalanche!

Actually, the real problem was upgrading the Yamaha. From there it has all been "small" things trying to get the best out of that major investment... And naturally, all THAT exposed the weakness in the Vizio that (and I have to agree with my wife on this) I frankly got too soon in the tech cycle and later learned that it just is not up to snuff. (4K w/ great PQ, but no true HDR or WCG.) That brought me back to upgrading to justify my investment (yet again) with a good display device.

It's like they say -- AVS Forums is a very expensive habit! But frankly, had I put the research into the Vizio to start that I've put into everything else from the A3060 on, AVS Forums would have made the whole thing a lot simpler. I'm fortunate that I really only "lost" the $800 (good deal at the time) I spend on the tv. In the end, what all this cascading avalanche of equipment results in is that I will finally put my last 27" CRT with digital converter out to the Habitat Store. And improved viewing/listening for me.

Atmos/DTS:X HT in Vaulted Room -- LG OLED Settings Options
Yamaha RX-A3060: 7.2.4 or 7.2.2 + Zone2 (switchable); OPPO 203; LG OLED65B6P; Harmony 650 & Home Hub
Base: Mirage OM-6 (FLR), MC-si (C), OM-R2 (SLR), FRx-nine (BLR)
Presence: ELAC A4s (FP), RSL C34Es (RP); 2 aci Titan subs; RP amp: AudioSource AMP100VS
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post #63 of 100 Old 01-15-2017, 05:09 PM
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I think your plan is a good one and you're fortunate to have that 65" plasma (IOW, good plan). An upgrade plan was actually what I started on with my UHD TV and later the Yamaha -- however, that led to an avalanche!

Actually, the real problem was upgrading the Yamaha. From there it has all been "small" things trying to get the best out of that major investment... And naturally, all THAT exposed the weakness in the Vizio that (and I have to agree with my wife on this) I frankly got too soon in the tech cycle and later learned that it just is not up to snuff. (4K w/ great PQ, but no true HDR or WCG.) That brought me back to upgrading to justify my investment (yet again) with a good display device.

It's like they say -- AVS Forums is a very expensive habit! But frankly, had I put the research into the Vizio to start that I've put into everything else from the A3060 on, AVS Forums would have made the whole thing a lot simpler. I'm fortunate that I really only "lost" the $800 (good deal at the time) I spend on the tv. In the end, what all this cascading avalanche of equipment results in is that I will finally put my last 27" CRT with digital converter out to the Habitat Store. And improved viewing/listening for me.
I agree the upgrade monster can take hold and not let go for awhile. I never thought I'd get a 2nd subwoofer, but here I am about to get a 2nd subwoofer. I postponed purchasing some photography equipment (another expensive hobby) and diverted those funds to the HT since I left it neglected for quite a few years. Fortunately my main speakers are still good for today's new tech.

The saying in photography is glass first - put your money into glass as camera bodies are updated every few years and the same goes for speakers - receivers are updated every year whereas speakers don't seem to cycle as much.
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HT Configuration: 7.2.4 l Panasonic Plasma (65") l Denon X4300H l Polk LSiM 707s, 706c, FXi-30 l Infinity ERS-610 l SVS PB-2000 (2x) l Monolith 7 l Behringer A500 (2x) l Oppo BD-93 l MH mmf-9.3 l Cassette Deck.

"Never be afraid to try something new, remember amateurs build the Ark, professionals built the Titanic"
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post #64 of 100 Old 01-16-2017, 06:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Now we enter a lull in the new equipment buzz that follows the CES. It's a period that brings another sale frenzy to the electronics retail market with anticipation of the Super Bowl. The talk is 2016 tv prices instead of 2017 model info and prices. Those in the 2017 hunt like me have to be content with the slim pickings of rumor and the temptations of saving $1000 or more via the show room leftovers. (Ok, that's a bit of an exaggeration -- the "leftovers" will come after Super Bowl and linger into the early new year model releases.) But that's still the mind set if you want to resist the old stock and stay fixed on the new models that don't really exist yet.

So what to do? One option is to get prepared. That's what you'll find in the pic below -- preparation. It's pretty amazing how much larger 65" is than 55". Once more to the detriment of our living room, I've pulled things apart and have a mess while working to put is all back together. In this case, I've dismantled our tv wall unit to expand the center speaker shelf and the top molding to contain the larger screen. Center speaker is temporarily on the coffee table in front -- the crown is sitting off the side out of picture. The shelf is now expanded but I need to insert additional structure underneath because the shelf is extended so far that it can't support the weight of the speaker. No real issue -- I've already cut the support members for tomorrow's build. Similar supports will get added to the crown that caps the units.



Looking at the picture, I'm reminded of the tv that sat in the same location 22 years ago. We had a different, slightly smaller set of wall units then (now divided into other locations around the house), but the unit dwarfed the 13" CRT screen nestled on one small shelf. In 1996, I started upgrading my aging sound system with new speakers, a Lexicon pre-amp and Rotel amp. And that upgrade monster was off and running. Four years later it had developed in a full 7.1 surround sound home theater with a Pioneer Elite 38" rear projection display. Over the intervening 20 years, the HT world changed to HD and HDMI and we changed over several displays to finally get to 55" about 4 years ago. This wall unit can't handle 75", so I think the space you see around the tv in that pic will be the final size. After this I would have to convert another room to a home theater and go to a projector, but that isn't likely for a number of reasons. Chief reason being that I like my wall of windows and I don't like burying myself in a dark theater.

At this point (as will be for the next couple of months) I sit watching North Carolina hold off Syracuse (not really a problem -- Go Heels! ) on a tv surrounded by a large dark frame about 5" on all sides (dark because the lights are off) that will eventually become filled with a much more impressive display. Nice to imagine!

Atmos/DTS:X HT in Vaulted Room -- LG OLED Settings Options
Yamaha RX-A3060: 7.2.4 or 7.2.2 + Zone2 (switchable); OPPO 203; LG OLED65B6P; Harmony 650 & Home Hub
Base: Mirage OM-6 (FLR), MC-si (C), OM-R2 (SLR), FRx-nine (BLR)
Presence: ELAC A4s (FP), RSL C34Es (RP); 2 aci Titan subs; RP amp: AudioSource AMP100VS

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post #65 of 100 Old 01-19-2017, 05:43 PM - Thread Starter
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OK, it's ready! Still need to add some decor on top and fill those bottom sides with another oak panel, but that will need a tv first to be sure it's all made properly.

I have to admit, though -- that empty space all around the 55" panel is really difficult to look at. But only time (April...) can fill that need.

Edit: B6 ordered! Will update with new post when received and operating. Yes, lots of input from owners, pricing considerations and what I'm willing to work with has led to going with the current model. Expectations are high.


Atmos/DTS:X HT in Vaulted Room -- LG OLED Settings Options
Yamaha RX-A3060: 7.2.4 or 7.2.2 + Zone2 (switchable); OPPO 203; LG OLED65B6P; Harmony 650 & Home Hub
Base: Mirage OM-6 (FLR), MC-si (C), OM-R2 (SLR), FRx-nine (BLR)
Presence: ELAC A4s (FP), RSL C34Es (RP); 2 aci Titan subs; RP amp: AudioSource AMP100VS

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post #66 of 100 Old 02-02-2017, 01:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Waiting...



And while I'm waiting, I thought I'd throw in this additional jpeg with a great comparison of the two major color standards. This summarizes what all the HDR WCG hoopala is about. And getting into all this kind of detail is a significant part of why I'm now waiting on delivery of a 2016 B6 OLED. Being an impatient type to start with, the iffy status of whether the new B6 might actually debut in April vs May or even later, also played a big part. I consider the chart below and accept that I can get the benefits of that kind of improvement while waiting (probably years) for whatever huge next step in video will be. My impetuosity pays dividends while I'm not sure that dreams of slightly increased nits, and future HDMI 2.1, HFR and other budding improvements will actually generate a reward that will matter to me. And by then, it's likely time to upgrade...


Atmos/DTS:X HT in Vaulted Room -- LG OLED Settings Options
Yamaha RX-A3060: 7.2.4 or 7.2.2 + Zone2 (switchable); OPPO 203; LG OLED65B6P; Harmony 650 & Home Hub
Base: Mirage OM-6 (FLR), MC-si (C), OM-R2 (SLR), FRx-nine (BLR)
Presence: ELAC A4s (FP), RSL C34Es (RP); 2 aci Titan subs; RP amp: AudioSource AMP100VS

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post #67 of 100 Old 02-04-2017, 10:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Lg 65" b6 oled

Ok, received the new TV. Took a couple days to get setup as I want (at least for the Super Bowl). The LG 2016 OLEDs are as amazing as people say they are. But no need to talk about it -- here it is.

This first was taken the night the B6 got here. After playing around with settings for a couple of hours to learn my way around and set some basics, we watched the last 3 episodes of Game of Thrones, Season 2. So much more glorious than with the Vizio 55" 4K! Once it was over, since the OPPO menu was in front of me and I wanted to catch up on AVS, I just called up some music from my laptop. (BTW, this was taken with my phone camera flash.)



With a cloudy day yesterday, I did some more Settings exploration while just giving the tv some time to "break in" (absolutely NOT required!) and last evening put on Deadpool to check out the HDR options. Fantastic video -- low light scenes really came to life and the fight in the burning warehouse was just other-worldly. And once again, the Atmos soundtrack blew me away. I have to agree with @gwsat -- as good as the TV, UHD and HDR truly are, what really makes these movies is the Atmos audio. So much worth the effort and relatively small cost of upgrade!

But this morning was bright and sunny -- new conditions! It took no time at all to decide to switch the Picture Mode to isf Expert (Bright Room). While it looked good in (Dark Room), the image just pops with Bright. While playing with HDR last night and now the isf options, I came to understand why most seem to recommend one of the isf settings -- they just offer more helpful customization options. I'll come back eventually and list my settings, but first I want to take more time to just get familiar with this really great and complicated tv.

With the sun streaming into my living room/theater (including directly on the screen), I took this photo. If you zoom and look where the words "THE... APPLE..." are about 1/3 of the way across the bottom edge, you MAY be able to see the sunny triangle. But most likely not. This pic certainly dispels any concern that these 2016 OLEDs may not work well in a bright room. Even an hour earlier with that sun area about 2 sq ft in size, I couldn't see it without hunting from right up close. And I'm sure no one can miss the sunlight pouring across my living room to convince you that the room is very BRIGHT. Yet where are the "reflections" on the screen? At some times with the right angle, I can see them faintly when I focus my attention on them -- but not in this pic.


Atmos/DTS:X HT in Vaulted Room -- LG OLED Settings Options
Yamaha RX-A3060: 7.2.4 or 7.2.2 + Zone2 (switchable); OPPO 203; LG OLED65B6P; Harmony 650 & Home Hub
Base: Mirage OM-6 (FLR), MC-si (C), OM-R2 (SLR), FRx-nine (BLR)
Presence: ELAC A4s (FP), RSL C34Es (RP); 2 aci Titan subs; RP amp: AudioSource AMP100VS

Last edited by richlife; 02-04-2017 at 11:09 AM.
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post #68 of 100 Old 02-04-2017, 12:32 PM
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Question: are bright room and dark room different if you make all the other settings the same? Ie is there some difference to the internal processing as well that's not represented in settings?

2) did you do any color or wb adjusting? Curious if I'm trying too hard to make the colors right and should just leave color management and white balance at 0s.


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post #69 of 100 Old 02-04-2017, 02:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by KungFuEnglish View Post
Question: are bright room and dark room different if you make all the other settings the same? Ie is there some difference to the internal processing as well that's not represented in settings?

2) did you do any color or wb adjusting? Curious if I'm trying too hard to make the colors right and should just leave color management and white balance at 0s.


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I just posted the answer to this in my Settings thread and have copied it to paste here even before seeing your question. It just seemed like a good thing for both posts.
----------------

I think whether or not you want to change your settings from bright day vs. night time viewing is going to be another matter of preference. Do I think it's best to switch? As soon as I saw the picture when I turned the tv on this morning, I felt the isf Expert (Dark Room) was darker than I wanted. But it only required one change -- to isf Expert (Bright Room) to get what I think is just a spectacular image. You can watch it with Dark Room, but I don't really think anyone would be pleased with it.

However, yesterday when it was cloudy, I didn't feel the need to change off of Dark Room. Could I improve it, yes, but it was more of a "why bother?". A lot of this is going to depend on what setting adjustments you have for Dark Room (or whatever). (And btw, I've made no changes to the color or white balance -- played some on the first day, but set them back.)

Having the tv for less than 2 days, I can't be sure that any settings I have now are the same as I will have in two weeks or two months. But my goal was to have things ready for the Super Bowl -- I don't want to be messing during the game -- or even during the pre-game. I've been watching on and off now for the past 7 hours with various program including Sportscenter, basketball, checking out Deadpool in this bright light (still amazing!) and now the golf tournament. Early sun from the east, direct sun from due south or the now westering sun, I've had no reason to make any changes.

The only adjustments from original settings that I've made is this:
Eye Comfort Mode: On
Contrast: 85
Brightness:50
H & V Sharpness to 0
Color Gamut: Wide
All Picture Option Off except Black Level: Low

Dark Room sets Contrast to 92 and Gamma to BT.1886
Bright Room set Contrast to 85 and Gamma to 2.2

As the sun gets closer to the horizon and more westerly putting my LR in shadow, I still see a difference in Dark vs Bright Room, but it's hard to state a preference. As everything get slightly darker around me, the Bright Room is starting to wash out color but Dark Room is still hiding shadow detail.

All in all, I still think I'm setup fine for Super Bowl and have a much better feel for how things adjust. Oh -- and for the Super Bowl I will pull my chair forward to about 9-10 feet from it's current "wife" placement of 12 feet. (I find myself looking at a still life scene of a large boulder surrounded by cactus, etc and just laughing with joy because the picture looks so good.)

Atmos/DTS:X HT in Vaulted Room -- LG OLED Settings Options
Yamaha RX-A3060: 7.2.4 or 7.2.2 + Zone2 (switchable); OPPO 203; LG OLED65B6P; Harmony 650 & Home Hub
Base: Mirage OM-6 (FLR), MC-si (C), OM-R2 (SLR), FRx-nine (BLR)
Presence: ELAC A4s (FP), RSL C34Es (RP); 2 aci Titan subs; RP amp: AudioSource AMP100VS
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post #70 of 100 Old 02-04-2017, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richlife View Post
I just posted the answer to this in my Settings thread and have copied it to paste here even before seeing your question. It just seemed like a good thing for both posts.
----------------

I think whether or not you want to change your settings from bright day vs. night time viewing is going to be another matter of preference. Do I think it's best to switch? As soon as I saw the picture when I turned the tv on this morning, I felt the isf Expert (Dark Room) was darker than I wanted. But it only required one change -- to isf Expert (Bright Room) to get what I think is just a spectacular image. You can watch it with Dark Room, but I don't really think anyone would be pleased with it.

However, yesterday when it was cloudy, I didn't feel the need to change off of Dark Room. Could I improve it, yes, but it was more of a "why bother?". A lot of this is going to depend on what setting adjustments you have for Dark Room (or whatever). (And btw, I've made no changes to the color or white balance -- played some on the first day, but set them back.)

Having the tv for less than 2 days, I can't be sure that any settings I have now are the same as I will have in two weeks or two months. But my goal was to have things ready for the Super Bowl -- I don't want to be messing during the game -- or even during the pre-game. I've been watching on and off now for the past 7 hours with various program including Sportscenter, basketball, checking out Deadpool in this bright light (still amazing!) and now the golf tournament. Early sun from the east, direct sun from due south or the now westering sun, I've had no reason to make any changes.

The only adjustments from original settings that I've made is this:
Eye Comfort Mode: On
Contrast: 85
Brightness:50
H & V Sharpness to 0
Color Gamut: Wide
All Picture Option Off except Black Level: Low

Dark Room sets Contrast to 92 and Gamma to BT.1886
Bright Room set Contrast to 85 and Gamma to 2.2

As the sun gets closer to the horizon and more westerly putting my LR in shadow, I still see a difference in Dark vs Bright Room, but it's hard to state a preference. As everything get slightly darker around me, the Bright Room is starting to wash out color but Dark Room is still hiding shadow detail.

All in all, I still think I'm setup fine for Super Bowl and have a much better feel for how things adjust. Oh -- and for the Super Bowl I will pull my chair forward to about 9-10 feet from it's current "wife" placement of 12 feet. (I find myself looking at a still life scene of a large boulder surrounded by cactus, etc and just laughing with joy because the picture looks so good.)
In that type of room, you might want to enable the ambient light sensor (if you have a USA model) - it will automatically adjust OLED Light value based on the amount of ambient light in the room. And I believe that you can adjust the "auto" setting too - to make it brighter, set OLED Light higher before enabling the ambient light sensor, for example...

To enable ambient light sensor, set power save mode to "Auto".

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post #71 of 100 Old 02-04-2017, 07:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
In that type of room, you might want to enable the ambient light sensor (if you have a USA model) - it will automatically adjust OLED Light value based on the amount of ambient light in the room. And I believe that you can adjust the "auto" setting too - to make it brighter, set OLED Light higher before enabling the ambient light sensor, for example...

To enable ambient light sensor, set power save mode to "Auto".

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Thanks much! Looking at my settings, I "THINK" that's what I have done (accidentally). I have to check things out more, but my OLED Light is greyed out, so I think that's where I am. The results right now are very good. But I sure do wish I knew what specific thing I did that got me here...

Atmos/DTS:X HT in Vaulted Room -- LG OLED Settings Options
Yamaha RX-A3060: 7.2.4 or 7.2.2 + Zone2 (switchable); OPPO 203; LG OLED65B6P; Harmony 650 & Home Hub
Base: Mirage OM-6 (FLR), MC-si (C), OM-R2 (SLR), FRx-nine (BLR)
Presence: ELAC A4s (FP), RSL C34Es (RP); 2 aci Titan subs; RP amp: AudioSource AMP100VS
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post #72 of 100 Old 02-05-2017, 08:02 AM
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By the way - you have a freaking *awesome* entertainment center!!! Man, is that thing beautiful!

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post #73 of 100 Old 02-05-2017, 09:26 AM
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Here's my lowly setup for comparo lol. Stupid window. It's good at night tho. The cabinet is our nicest piece of furniture in the whole house it fits my big center channel so that's nice.

My best settings came from this by far, changing color temp to warm1 (medium is ok too):




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post #74 of 100 Old 02-05-2017, 10:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
By the way - you have a freaking *awesome* entertainment center!!! Man, is that thing beautiful!

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Thank you much! We found that unit at a really good sale price in 1996 when we got our first large screen set (which replaced a 13" CRT sitting on a shelf ). That was a 37" Pioneer Elite and we figured that it was the biggest TV we would ever have... The fact that the unit was adjustable was only important because we could set it up to hold that tv which was also a floor standing -- so we used the tv base in another room. Well, the next tv was a 50" which required the base -- good thing the unit was adjustable! And so the base was moved back in. The next two TVs were 55" -- more expansion to pretty near the limit. And then came the decision to get a 65"! The 65" OLED required that I remove the shelf above (with the center speaker) and the top crown so that I could add some oak ribs because the expansion sections are now at a true limit (only about 4" overlap of the extension parts).

It won't be obvious to some, so I'll add that this unit is actually made of solid red oak for all parts except the interior shelves and the 4 vertical panels which are MDF with red oak veneer. The speaker shelf is oak plywood -- needs that strength. If you look carefully at the tv base unit, you can see the additional mods that I made. To the side are the "fluted" extensions I made to hide the space and wiring. I will need to add another 4 5/8" section to those in order to hide that newly opened space which accommodates the 65" tv. On top of the base, is a 5/8" top piece with a backsplash (back behind the LG base) which hides the wiring mess. My new extension pieces with probably extend above that top piece up to the TV purely for looks to hide all the space behind.

Excluding my work, we actually got this entire unit in 1996 for $1700 -- pretty much one of the best deals we ever found. We had looked at having a custom unit built, but backed off when we were quoted prices of $6500 and above. THAT was a fortunate decision because we had not even considered expansion for the custom unit.

Atmos/DTS:X HT in Vaulted Room -- LG OLED Settings Options
Yamaha RX-A3060: 7.2.4 or 7.2.2 + Zone2 (switchable); OPPO 203; LG OLED65B6P; Harmony 650 & Home Hub
Base: Mirage OM-6 (FLR), MC-si (C), OM-R2 (SLR), FRx-nine (BLR)
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post #75 of 100 Old 02-05-2017, 05:39 PM
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Not familiar with OLEDs, but do they have calibrating discs for these type TVs or are you required to get them professionally calibrated?

Thanks

HT Configuration: 7.2.4 l Panasonic Plasma (65") l Denon X4300H l Polk LSiM 707s, 706c, FXi-30 l Infinity ERS-610 l SVS PB-2000 (2x) l Monolith 7 l Behringer A500 (2x) l Oppo BD-93 l MH mmf-9.3 l Cassette Deck.

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post #76 of 100 Old 02-05-2017, 09:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Not familiar with OLEDs, but do they have calibrating discs for these type TVs or are you required to get them professionally calibrated?

Thanks
I understand the the Disney WOW disc has an OLED option -- so yes. But I expect that when the HDR calibration comes out (expected late this year), that's when we will get the best calibration for OLED. As for professional, that's always an option. If you use a calibration disc, you are basically "eyeballing" for best result. Professional should get the best results, but if you're willing to put out the bucks (not cheap) for the equipment and the hours (maybe months or more) to learn to use it properly, you can do it yourself.

So you can eyeball, or for several hundred get a professonal cal, or for more hundreds and months of training/experience gathering "do it yourself" (maybe -- if you're good enough). But is the latter really a rational thing to do for the one tv you buy (what? new tv every few years -- once a year at most -- at least for most people).

And keep in mind that right now there is no software, calibration standards for HDR. All you can do is calibrate to SDR, BT.709. (At least that's my understanding. I have really minimum knowledge and understanding. But what I've said is what I think about the matter.)

My B6 looks good/great. I understand also that calibration should be done after at least 300 hours of use. If I do it, I will wait until after the HDR cal standards and discs are released.

Lots of people highly recommend calibration. I hope they will correct any mis-statements on my part and will also say how calibration can improve video that already looks outstanding. The advantage as I have read is that your tv will then be able to reproduce specifically images as intended by the producers.

Atmos/DTS:X HT in Vaulted Room -- LG OLED Settings Options
Yamaha RX-A3060: 7.2.4 or 7.2.2 + Zone2 (switchable); OPPO 203; LG OLED65B6P; Harmony 650 & Home Hub
Base: Mirage OM-6 (FLR), MC-si (C), OM-R2 (SLR), FRx-nine (BLR)
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post #77 of 100 Old 02-06-2017, 07:09 AM
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Thanks. Calibration is a must as far as I am concerned. I always calibrate whether it be with the disc or other methods (not professional method), which gives me better display than off the shelf settings. I use Xrite colormunki to calibrate my computer monitors (for accurate colors - photographer) and hopefully they develop something for these newer TVs, if they haven't done so already.

I see the 65" UHD Tvs are pretty reasonable these days - very tempting. If I did not already have a 65" I may have purchased by now, but I want at least 75" now and those jump significantly in price, so I'll just wait them out for now.

How are you liking the new view?

HT Configuration: 7.2.4 l Panasonic Plasma (65") l Denon X4300H l Polk LSiM 707s, 706c, FXi-30 l Infinity ERS-610 l SVS PB-2000 (2x) l Monolith 7 l Behringer A500 (2x) l Oppo BD-93 l MH mmf-9.3 l Cassette Deck.

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post #78 of 100 Old 02-06-2017, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. Calibration is a must as far as I am concerned. I always calibrate whether it be with the disc or other methods (not professional method), which gives me better display than off the shelf settings. I use Xrite colormunki to calibrate my computer monitors (for accurate colors - photographer) and hopefully they develop something for these newer TVs, if they haven't done so already.

I see the 65" UHD Tvs are pretty reasonable these days - very tempting. If I did not already have a 65" I may have purchased by now, but I want at least 75" now and those jump significantly in price, so I'll just wait them out for now.

How are you liking the new view?
Spectactular! During the pre-Super Bowl coverage, near sunset they showed a pic Houston with the sky and a few thin bands of cloud overhead. The "view" was literally just like looking through an open window. One of those OMG! moments that I've been experiencing over the past few days since getting this tv.

Atmos/DTS:X HT in Vaulted Room -- LG OLED Settings Options
Yamaha RX-A3060: 7.2.4 or 7.2.2 + Zone2 (switchable); OPPO 203; LG OLED65B6P; Harmony 650 & Home Hub
Base: Mirage OM-6 (FLR), MC-si (C), OM-R2 (SLR), FRx-nine (BLR)
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post #79 of 100 Old 02-06-2017, 08:44 AM
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Great. Enjoy. I will be there one day soon.

HT Configuration: 7.2.4 l Panasonic Plasma (65") l Denon X4300H l Polk LSiM 707s, 706c, FXi-30 l Infinity ERS-610 l SVS PB-2000 (2x) l Monolith 7 l Behringer A500 (2x) l Oppo BD-93 l MH mmf-9.3 l Cassette Deck.

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post #80 of 100 Old 02-07-2017, 12:30 PM
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Spectactular! During the pre-Super Bowl coverage, near sunset they showed a pic Houston with the sky and a few thin bands of cloud overhead. The "view" was literally just like looking through an open window. One of those OMG! moments that I've been experiencing over the past few days since getting this tv.
Richlife, you said you'd tempt me. The comment on the new panel being a window is just the kind of thing to get me excited. Congrats on the OLED. I have to wait at least year or two, but I will be lurking. Thanks for sharing
Best
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post #81 of 100 Old 02-07-2017, 05:31 PM
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I read through this thread again as I was thinking about how to do easy Atmos in my space.

I think I will go with 4 of those ELAC speakers after your great reviews, rather than do in-ceiling. I read the Dolby Atmos paper you linked to and it does seem to slightly favor the Atmos speakers like your ELACs over in-ceiling. I think in-ceiling would work fine if you aim them and position them correctly and I might have gone that way if I was building from scratch but I'm retro fitting and can't easily get into the attic space above so will go with ELACs I can aim and install more easily.

Now I need to read up on the separate amp as I have no experience with them, to drive all the extra speakers.

Equipment: Vizio P75-C1 UHD HDR TV; Yamaha Aventage RX-A3060 Receiver (7.2.4); Audio Source AMP100VS 2 Channel Amplifier; Polk RTi8 Towers; Polk CSi A6 Center; 2x Polk FXi A6 Surrounds, 2x Polk FXi5 Surrounds; 2x Polk PSW125 Subs; 4x ELAC A4 Debut Atmos Speakers, 4K Dish Network Hopper 3; Oppo UDP-203 UHD Blu-ray disc player; XBox One S console; XBox 360 console; Apple TV (4th Gen.)
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post #82 of 100 Old 02-07-2017, 06:01 PM - Thread Starter
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I read through this thread again as I was thinking about how to do easy Atmos in my space.

I think I will go with 4 of those ELAC speakers after your great reviews, rather than do in-ceiling. I read the Dolby Atmos paper you linked to and it does seem to slightly favor the Atmos speakers like your ELACs over in-ceiling. I think in-ceiling would work fine if you aim them and position them correctly and I might have gone that way if I was building from scratch but I'm retro fitting and can't easily get into the attic space above so will go with ELACs I can aim and install more easily.

Now I need to read up on the separate amp as I have no experience with them, to drive all the extra speakers.
I wish you the best on this, Pete. I'll have to go back to look at how you've decribed your situation (can you believe it -- I just don't remember!).
I just mentioned the "drinking from a firehose" bit again in another post. Let's see new AVR, new Atmos and presence capability all around, new external amp, new OPPO, new B6. And all this stuff is just SO simple! Do you have any idea how many threads (and associated docs) I've read from beginning to end in the past 10 months? THIS is the real meaning of "brain freeze"!

I MUST BE HAVING FUN!!!

But for you -- notice how my ELAC's are mounted high. I think that's helpful. Not TOO close to the ceiling, but not so far down that the "beam" function gets diluted. If you already have another amp or AVR, you can maybe use it at first to try things out.

Edit: OBTW -- if you haven't already, go read through the ELAC A4 thread. And watch your brain...
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Atmos/DTS:X HT in Vaulted Room -- LG OLED Settings Options
Yamaha RX-A3060: 7.2.4 or 7.2.2 + Zone2 (switchable); OPPO 203; LG OLED65B6P; Harmony 650 & Home Hub
Base: Mirage OM-6 (FLR), MC-si (C), OM-R2 (SLR), FRx-nine (BLR)
Presence: ELAC A4s (FP), RSL C34Es (RP); 2 aci Titan subs; RP amp: AudioSource AMP100VS
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post #83 of 100 Old 02-16-2017, 04:47 AM
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Nice to see how a common room is being transformed by an enthusiast... nice reading...keep going!
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post #84 of 100 Old 04-04-2017, 12:04 PM - Thread Starter
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I copied this paragraph from my post in the A3060 thread as it seems appropriate after all the verbiage I posted here.

>At some point (after we can get over the sting of all the upgrades of the past months) I may consider talking with ChadB about full calibrations, but that's also not for the near future. Frankly, the only reason I would consider it is because the setup sounds and looks so good and with the investment, it seems worthwhile to get the best I can do (beyond what my eyes and ears alone can provide). Regardless of whether that actually happens, I'm very pleased.<

I'll still tweaking on my own and am also trying to keep up with what is going on in this A/V hobby -- so changes may yet come. Meanwhile, still enjoying music and video every single day. That honestly makes the investment and the work effort well worthwhile -- as well as the knowledge that I will keep getting these benefits for at least several more years. I really couldn't guess how much more I've used this setup than I would have had I not made these improvements, but I 50% more would not be an overstatement.

The best improvement I made to all this? Despite how much I really love the PQ of this OLED tv, upgrading to the Yamaha RX-A3060 is still the number one improvement. I started down this track for music and it is the music that I continue to enjoy for the majority of use. That upgrade led to more investment (totalling about $700 for RP speakers and amp), but my grand total for audio has been right at $2K. The tv blew that out of the water, but (fortunately) the LG OLED ends up being my wife's favorite addition (though she may well never had done that without my instigation). She and I are also immensely grateful that luck and persistence allowed me to win the OPPO 203 -- that gem bumped both audio and video up a significant notch.

To cap all this off, I like to think about what I gained through all this effort and cost. Previously I had a nice (very good) sound system and "home theater". Now I feel I have an outstanding setup -- as good or better than any other that I personally have heard and better than any theater. (I don't really think most theaters put in the effort and cost it takes to obtain "the best" audio and they certainly don't maintain them at optimum levels. Perhaps that is local to our area, but the only reason we ever go to a theater is to enjoy the big screen. I tend to get frustrated with the audio despite always sitting in "sweet spots".) I'm sure many other members of these forums have equal or better setups. I'd love to be able to hear/see them and I congratulate all of those owners.

My thanks to the many who contribute in the forums and with articles and reviews providing information and technical insight -- we all get to better enjoy the audio/video we love because of those contributions.

Atmos/DTS:X HT in Vaulted Room -- LG OLED Settings Options
Yamaha RX-A3060: 7.2.4 or 7.2.2 + Zone2 (switchable); OPPO 203; LG OLED65B6P; Harmony 650 & Home Hub
Base: Mirage OM-6 (FLR), MC-si (C), OM-R2 (SLR), FRx-nine (BLR)
Presence: ELAC A4s (FP), RSL C34Es (RP); 2 aci Titan subs; RP amp: AudioSource AMP100VS

Last edited by richlife; 04-04-2017 at 12:08 PM.
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post #85 of 100 Old 04-26-2017, 11:24 AM - Thread Starter
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I just updated the OP (first post in thread -- Original Post) to link my A3060 configuration information for those interested in my sig notation "Yamaha RX-A3060: 7.2.4 or 7.2.2 + Zone2 (switchable)".

More importantly, now when people ask me for that info, I can just point to my OP here.
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Atmos/DTS:X HT in Vaulted Room -- LG OLED Settings Options
Yamaha RX-A3060: 7.2.4 or 7.2.2 + Zone2 (switchable); OPPO 203; LG OLED65B6P; Harmony 650 & Home Hub
Base: Mirage OM-6 (FLR), MC-si (C), OM-R2 (SLR), FRx-nine (BLR)
Presence: ELAC A4s (FP), RSL C34Es (RP); 2 aci Titan subs; RP amp: AudioSource AMP100VS
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post #86 of 100 Old 09-27-2017, 11:56 AM
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I really don't know. They get such good reviews, it's tempting. Let me answer again after I get them installed and can get an idea how they sound in place. The ELACs come in two days and will be a simple plug and play. That means play with the angle in almost any situation. I don't have a date yet for the RSLs and installation will take a bit more. Should be some fun to try to decide how speakers sound that are supposed to not really make their presence known.



Today, I re-read the Dolby Atmos Home Theater Installation Guidelines, http://www.dolby.com/us/en/technolog...guidelines.pdf . They were pretty specific that Atmos enabled speakers (the ELACs are an example) are preferable to the in-ceiling speakers. But they don't mention specifics or brands and they don't say much about in-ceiling speakers except that those with an adjustable tweeter may help with proper dispersion. And in all cases, they say that speaker and room characteristics and speaker placement will affect the result. Basically, nothing that we didn't already know -- it's a crapshoot to order and up to us to compare.


Just to hopefully add some clarity, no Atmos Enabled (up-firing) speaker will provide even a tenth of the performance as a ceiling mounted or in ceiling speaker will. Not even close. Aside from the technical reasons, rational thinking would suggest trying to “simulate” a sound coming from a certain area vs the sound actual originating in the area from which it is intended is not ideal nor does it genuinely achieve the effect.

Many believe that surround and top speakers do little more than add ambience. While they do this and amazingly so, in many sound designs there is also lots of directional sound imagery in those channels either directly or partial information to assist the mains and other channels to fully creat the desired experience of a particular scene.

However, if you are totally unable to use ceiling speakers then up-firing is certainly a solution if a compromised one.
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post #87 of 100 Old 09-27-2017, 01:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Just to hopefully add some clarity, no Atmos Enabled (up-firing) speaker will provide even a tenth of the performance as a ceiling mounted or in ceiling speaker will. Not even close. Aside from the technical reasons, rational thinking would suggest trying to “simulate” a sound coming from a certain area vs the sound actual originating in the area from which it is intended is not ideal nor does it genuinely achieve the effect.

Many believe that surround and top speakers do little more than add ambience. While they do this and amazingly so, in many sound designs there is also lots of directional sound imagery in those channels either directly or partial information to assist the mains and other channels to fully creat the desired experience of a particular scene.

However, if you are totally unable to use ceiling speakers then up-firing is certainly a solution if a compromised one.
You have your opinion, but I have both in my installation and I find little difference. The DAES provide clear, coherent sound with outstanding imagery that does not appear to derive from the speaker itself nor from the ceiling area from which the sound is reflected (unless that is the intent of the soundtrack.

Belittling a technology that you don't "believe" does nothing to help those who have not choice but to use DAES. For those who DO have a choice, my recommendation would be to decide on which is best for you and, if practical, try both.

Atmos/DTS:X HT in Vaulted Room -- LG OLED Settings Options
Yamaha RX-A3060: 7.2.4 or 7.2.2 + Zone2 (switchable); OPPO 203; LG OLED65B6P; Harmony 650 & Home Hub
Base: Mirage OM-6 (FLR), MC-si (C), OM-R2 (SLR), FRx-nine (BLR)
Presence: ELAC A4s (FP), RSL C34Es (RP); 2 aci Titan subs; RP amp: AudioSource AMP100VS
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post #88 of 100 Old 09-27-2017, 02:59 PM
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You have your opinion, but I have both in my installation and I find little difference. The DAES provide clear, coherent sound with outstanding imagery that does not appear to derive from the speaker itself nor from the ceiling area from which the sound is reflected (unless that is the intent of the soundtrack.



Belittling a technology that you don't "believe" does nothing to help those who have not choice but to use DAES. For those who DO have a choice, my recommendation would be to decide on which is best for you and, if practical, try both.


All things being equal I too would welcome anyone to compare. With a good set up, it's like apples to oranges. I have nothing against daes. The issue I have is with folks bending reality to fit their desires or way of thinking. If given a true comparison in an environment conducive to such the performance difference will be significantly better with top mounted speakers.


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post #89 of 100 Old 09-28-2017, 09:46 AM
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I'm in two minds on the whole in-ceiling over DAES thing.

Ordinarily, I'd believe in-ceiling is going to be much better but I'd also wonder if a lot of in-ceiling speakers are too easy to pinpoint when it appears the Atmos overhead track is trying to be more generalized than that.

I currently only have the front two DAES and it is still a noticeable, overhead effect. I'm going to add two more for the rears in the next couple of weeks and see how that sounds. I could have gone with in-ceiling but decided against it until I have a more finalized plan for the room (and the budget to pull it off!) I probably will go for in-ceiling in the future but will take on board Dolby's suggestions about placement and type of speaker for the optimal cone of sound.

Of all the comparisons I have found online, they do lean towards in-ceiling so there must be something in it but hardly any of the reviews say in-ceiling is multiples better - usually just a little sharper or a bit more rounded in terms of the object moving across the entire listening space.

Equipment: Vizio P75-C1 UHD HDR TV; Yamaha Aventage RX-A3060 Receiver (7.2.4); Audio Source AMP100VS 2 Channel Amplifier; Polk RTi8 Towers; Polk CSi A6 Center; 2x Polk FXi A6 Surrounds, 2x Polk FXi5 Surrounds; 2x Polk PSW125 Subs; 4x ELAC A4 Debut Atmos Speakers, 4K Dish Network Hopper 3; Oppo UDP-203 UHD Blu-ray disc player; XBox One S console; XBox 360 console; Apple TV (4th Gen.)
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post #90 of 100 Old 10-06-2017, 06:02 PM
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Hey Richlife, I'm on my last upgrade items (UHD player and 4k TV) and I see you have the Oppo and LG OLED. What are your thoughts and why did you go with that combo?

I'm starting to research the OLEDs and plan to have one in my HT by years end, so any tidbit you can provide would help. Btw, I am familiar with OPPO as I have the 83 and 93 players, but UHDs are another animal. Oh, if you have a good reading source for OLEDs, can you provide a link?

Thanks...

HT Configuration: 7.2.4 l Panasonic Plasma (65") l Denon X4300H l Polk LSiM 707s, 706c, FXi-30 l Infinity ERS-610 l SVS PB-2000 (2x) l Monolith 7 l Behringer A500 (2x) l Oppo BD-93 l MH mmf-9.3 l Cassette Deck.

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