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post #31 of 240 Old 07-08-2017, 04:47 PM - Thread Starter
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I have never looked into PJ mounts. What is a good cost effective one? What do ya'll use? Mount for Sony 40ES...

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post #32 of 240 Old 07-08-2017, 06:13 PM - Thread Starter
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SPEAKER PLACEMENT vs. SEATING


Towels were mocking up the 11ft/134" wide AT screen, I want to get the 215's out a little wider for stereo listening and imaging so I will develop an AT masking system for the side. Essentially the L&R 215's horn will sit 4-6" outside the edge of the screen...maybe...many decisions and planning to do! Seated listening distance will be about 12ft, 11ft wide screen, L&R tucked into that distance makes them around 9.5ft apart which I want wider.

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post #33 of 240 Old 07-08-2017, 11:30 PM
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I will consider that and have thought about it. I think a DIY Miliskin spandex white over black screen would be about $100. I am awaiting a PM reply for a material estimate and will search the DIY spandex threads a well.

Thanks for the tip though! I did own a non AT 93" Silver Ticket screen as my first and was very very impressed with the quality. Jamestown has Seymour XD material for a $600 screen but I only see 16:9 options. I will call and see if they can do other.

Have you (or Carp) toyed around with other aspect ratios? I was recommended 2:39:1. I don't know jack squat about the video side besides my Spears and Munsil calibration disc...
Yes, go with 2:39:1. I don't know why they make screens in the 2:35:1 size, there are basically no movies with that aspect ratio. All movies have light spill on the left and right side. It's not a huge deal, you can't really see it but if you have the choice go with 2:39:1.
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post #34 of 240 Old 07-08-2017, 11:43 PM
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I think this is about where the speaker could end up. 10 inches from the back wall and 10 inches from the sidewall AT THE CLOSEST POINTS FROM TOE IN. Is 10" enough? With toe in there will be some nice gaps that can all be filled with pink fluffy with the largest areas where the toe in angles it away from the wall up to 18"!

Ughgh, sorry they are sideways. They are normal until I upload



I still say you fill up all that area with pink fluffy, basically making a baffle wall out of it. LCR will all be behind the screen right?


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Anyone know why the uploads are coming in sideways? They are normal on my Mac...

Just be glad you didn't use photbucket! Every photo I've put on avs forum is gone as of yesterday.

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So here is where I'm going to put the four Volt 10 surrounds unless someone comes in emphatically that it acoustically far inferior. I know it's not ideal but it's the most practical for the room and I don't think the overall experience will be bad at all. It's about 2.5ft higher than Volts I had before. Plus I will be able to hit the sides at the proper 110 degree and the rears in proper location as well. Just all four being 2.5ft higher than they should. All Aimed at MLP.

Chair is placed in direct center. Angles may not make placement appear right...Single row of three seats seen in post above...




I think those speaker positions will be fine since you aren't going Atmos.
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post #35 of 240 Old 07-08-2017, 11:47 PM
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I have never looked into PJ mounts. What is a good cost effective one? What do ya'll use? Mount for Sony 40ES...


I have the same projector as you and use a Cheif projector mount it's made very well. When I bought mine I was looking for something that could with stand a lot of shake from all my subs... the mount is built like a tank. I'm sure there's other good mounts out there but I like this brand.
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post #36 of 240 Old 07-08-2017, 11:49 PM
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post #37 of 240 Old 07-09-2017, 12:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok 2:39:1 Screen

I will take a pic of what is on my PJ. I think Seanile said it was a bracket of some sort, not a mount but it looks similar...

So I do plan to get a look at the 11ft wide screen by setting up the PJ. But my advisor who is versed a tad in the video side said over 11ft in a 2:39:1 will begin to drop dramatically in performance quickly. Since I am going to go a cheap DIY Miliskin Spandex screen I think staying within the parameters of performance is a good idea.

One thing I want to look into and consider is Falcon DIY material. It looks like it would be about $200 in material for their cheaper vision material, lower level stuff. One thing here though I would want to look into is there was a legit study awhile back saying the Falcon Vision material attenuated high frequencies by 6db. Perhaps @beastaudio or @jbrown15 could comment on that. I think they both had that material before. Spandex is very very transparent but the image might suffer a little more. I hope to nail that down by reading in the next couple days and order screen material by Wednesday at latest. I'm pretty stoked to get this room together!!!

Seating will ship to me LA to Redding (544 miles) on the 12th...
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post #38 of 240 Old 07-09-2017, 12:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Carp I think those surround locations will be it. Worst case I move in future...

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post #39 of 240 Old 07-09-2017, 01:47 AM
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I will consider that and have thought about it. I think a DIY Miliskin spandex white over black screen would be about $100. I am awaiting a PM reply for a material estimate and will search the DIY spandex threads a well.

Thanks for the tip though! I did own a non AT 93" Silver Ticket screen as my first and was very very impressed with the quality. Jamestown has Seymour XD material for a $600 screen but I only see 16:9 options. I will call and see if they can do other.

Have you (or Carp) toyed around with other aspect ratios? I was recommended 2:39:1. I don't know jack squat about the video side besides my Spears and Munsil calibration disc...
Oh, I didn't know it was that cheap with all the fabric/material and wood or whatever you build the frame out of. That is really cheap if you can do one for $100.

I haven't tried anything other than 16:9. I listen to music 90%+ of the time and us an HTPC as my main source so most of the time I use Tidal, Spotify or Youtube for music. That is why I went 16:9 if I watched more movies I would probably do another ratio.

Isn't it fairly expensive to get a projector that does 2.39:1 or can you make your Sony do 2.39:1 with an add-on lens? I had read a little about it in the past and thought it was pretty spendy from what I remember.

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post #40 of 240 Old 07-09-2017, 02:13 AM - Thread Starter
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A quick recap and latest plans after a few days of my own rambling ideas. My apologies for any unclearness for those coming in later...

-Going to eat up around 3ft for false wall. This allows a good bit of insulation for acoustical and bass purposes. Also some efforts of sound from escaping through that wall. See comment below for L&R placement but essentially every bit of open air will be pink fluffy like Carp has done. I may toy with ideas of a wall of OSB or an air gap or anything that may help with bass acoustically and bass containment. I do remember a study once showed a 10" space melted bass better by having an air gap in there rather than pure insulation. I think it was @LTD02 that linked this couple years ago?

-Going just 215RT's behind false wall. Decided them running full range plus three SI18HT near fields will be it.

-Volt surrounds although not sure if Ported 10's or 8's would be best. 8's hit down to 65hz, 10's to 45hz. Sealed 10 is 70hz.

-DIY Spandex screen White over black (2:39:1) with black spandex masking for sides. This allows my L&R 215's to creep a few precious inches outside the edges of the 134" or 11ft wide screen. If I we to put them perfectly within the 134" with toe in it would put my L&R 9.5ft apart. I want every bit I can get for 2-channel stereo and imaging. I don't think an extra 6" to each side will make any difference to the audio in relation to the screen. Many run their L&R mains outside the screen. So my theory is gain what I can and still leave at least 8" minimum on side walls for insulation/bass trapping/wall bounce.

-Single row of three seats sitting about 11.5ft back from screen.

-LFE will be routed to LCR 215RT's using a Nano AVRHD. I think this allows me to still also let my AVR route LFE to my near fields? @raynist this doable? Or at least all done with nano.

-Will be interested in Dirac so maybe a Nano-DL in series with the Nano-HD.
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post #41 of 240 Old 07-09-2017, 02:15 AM
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I have never looked into PJ mounts. What is a good cost effective one? What do ya'll use? Mount for Sony 40ES...
I bought this hoping it would help with my projector bouncing around when the bass hits. It might have helped some. Hard to say since I didn't try it ceiling mounted without it (previously I had used the projector sitting on a table on the floor and it shook a lot more, but I also have a suspended floor). But even using this directly mounted to the ceiling truss/studs the projector will still shake and bounce at high bass levels. But I think any projector will if your walls and ceiling are moving and flexing. It has little rubber pads built in to minimize the shake/bounce but like I said I can't comment on if it actually made a difference. I see it has good reviews so maybe I just have a super bad system since I still get movement of the projector with high volumes and really low content or I just have a poorly built house(more likely) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the actual projector mount, I found one of these used or open box for $50. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I see they have some now for around $60. I know some of the cheap ones on Amazon get better ratings but I wonder if those people have the extreme system with bass 120dB+. I have a feeling those cheap ones would tend to shake easier since the Peerless has screws you can tighten everything up once you have it adjusted and there is no slack in any of the pivot points. I could be wrong though and maybe the cheap ones are just as good. I know when I read up on projector mounts most people recommended the Peerless and spending more rather than going with a cheap mount.

Just looked at the reviews on Amazon to see why it was rated low(negative reviews), looks like it was because it didn't look like the picture. So take that for what it is worth

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post #42 of 240 Old 07-09-2017, 02:21 AM
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One thing I wanted to mention is I have heard how having other subwoofers in the room that are not in use can affect the subwoofer that is in use in the room. So I would think that could/would also apply to if you have them in your baffle wall and not in use. Maybe turn them around back if you decide not to use them, so it is more of a true baffle wall? I would think they would effect the wall being a true baffle wall effect since they are not solid and the subs and ports can allow interaction with your 215 mains. I could be wrong though, but ask someone who would know if you haven't.

Personally, I would try them both ways and take in room measurements. Just because that is how I am. I just have to see for myself. I don't care what someone tells me, I wanna see it for myself

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post #43 of 240 Old 07-09-2017, 08:54 AM
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Isn't it fairly expensive to get a projector that does 2.39:1 or can you make your Sony do 2.39:1 with an add-on lens? I had read a little about it in the past and thought it was pretty spendy from what I remember.
I had the same question since it seems like a lot of work with a manual focus projector.

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post #44 of 240 Old 07-09-2017, 01:25 PM - Thread Starter
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One thing I wanted to mention is I have heard how having other subwoofers in the room that are not in use can affect the subwoofer that is in use in the room. So I would think that could/would also apply to if you have them in your baffle wall and not in use. Maybe turn them around back if you decide not to use them, so it is more of a true baffle wall? I would think they would effect the wall being a true baffle wall effect since they are not solid and the subs and ports can allow interaction with your 215 mains. I could be wrong though, but ask someone who would know if you haven't.

Personally, I would try them both ways and take in room measurements. Just because that is how I am. I just have to see for myself. I don't care what someone tells me, I wanna see it for myself
I can construct an actual baffle wall with Ply/OSB/ whatever materials. I was thinking the space the 24x24x76 DIY subs take up would be better served filled with insulation for acoustical and bass leakage out that wall.

Carp and Archaea have done some testing and have experience about music preferences and baffle walls. I think for me I am going to roll with out essentially creating a baffle with pink fluffy like Carp did. Then if after I decided to build an actual I can. Kinda taking the approach of it's easier to add then buy/build than subtract.
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post #45 of 240 Old 07-09-2017, 01:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Oh, I didn't know it was that cheap with all the fabric/material and wood or whatever you build the frame out of. That is really cheap if you can do one for $100.

I haven't tried anything other than 16:9. I listen to music 90%+ of the time and us an HTPC as my main source so most of the time I use Tidal, Spotify or Youtube for music. That is why I went 16:9 if I watched more movies I would probably do another ratio.

Isn't it fairly expensive to get a projector that does 2.39:1 or can you make your Sony do 2.39:1 with an add-on lens? I had read a little about it in the past and thought it was pretty spendy from what I remember.
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I had the same question since it seems like a lot of work with a manual focus projector.
I will ask a couple videophile acquaintances I have gained over the years. I honestly have no idea about any of this! I thought aspect ratios were determined by the movies format, etc. I was under impression one movie might be 2:40 then the other 2:39 then some content 16:9 and my PJ just spits out the image encoded on the disc. Maybe I should go 16:9 with a masking system???

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post #46 of 240 Old 07-09-2017, 02:04 PM
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I will ask a couple videophile acquaintances I have gained over the years. I honestly have no idea about any of this! I thought aspect ratios were determined by the movies format, etc. I was under impression one movie might be 2:40 then the other 2:39 then some content 16:9 and my PJ just spits out the image encoded on the disc. Maybe I should go 16:9 with a masking system???
If you want to go with scope setup or CIH, you have to have a projector with lens memory (zoom in and out) or other equipment. In your case you have a native 16:9 projector with I think a 1.6 zoom, you might be able to make it work but you will constantly be adjusting between content without spending more for other equipment. With masking you could still have a great scope screen with 11 feet of width, but your 16:9 would end up being 151", so the news would be larger than Beauty and the Beast.

While it doesn't bother me, many feel that scope deserves to be the largest aspect for the most theater like experience. In my case I have only 11 feet of width to work with, so I use every inch and it still gives me 143.5:1 for movies. I let the native 16:9 projector do the work for me be it 4:3, 16:9, 2:1, 2.4:1 and so on.

I believe Dave in Green has a Sony, so you could ask him.

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post #47 of 240 Old 07-09-2017, 02:23 PM
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I will ask a couple videophile acquaintances I have gained over the years. I honestly have no idea about any of this! I thought aspect ratios were determined by the movies format, etc. I was under impression one movie might be 2:40 then the other 2:39 then some content 16:9 and my PJ just spits out the image encoded on the disc. Maybe I should go 16:9 with a masking system???
I think you are correct. I must have been looking at an anamorphic projector lens I think. Maybe I am misunderstanding but otherwise, you are wasting pixel as they are used for the black bars?

I admit I do not know much about this as I haven't used it or look into it much. https://www.panamorph.com/home-theater-lens-options/

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post #48 of 240 Old 07-09-2017, 05:36 PM - Thread Starter
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If you want to go with scope setup or CIH, you have to have a projector with lens memory (zoom in and out) or other equipment. In your case you have a native 16:9 projector with I think a 1.6 zoom, you might be able to make it work but you will constantly be adjusting between content without spending more for other equipment. With masking you could still have a great scope screen with 11 feet of width, but your 16:9 would end up being 151", so the news would be larger than Beauty and the Beast.

While it doesn't bother me, many feel that scope deserves to be the largest aspect for the most theater like experience. In my case I have only 11 feet of width to work with, so I use every inch and it still gives me 143.5:1 for movies. I let the native 16:9 projector do the work for me be it 4:3, 16:9, 2:1, 2.4:1 and so on.

I believe Dave in Green has a Sony, so you could ask him.
Yea I'll ask but I think your right. Rolling with just my PJ I will need a 16:9 screen with masking options to a smaller 2:40:1 (ish) screen. I do like the thought of movies having the largest but not at more expense at least right now.

So 16:9 screen it is then with a masking system. Anyone have any good ideas for DIY masking? Seems easy enough to come up with a basic panel hung and secured. I think I will use black spandex for the masking material? IO wonder how it eats up light overspill compared to velvet.

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post #49 of 240 Old 07-09-2017, 05:43 PM - Thread Starter
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I think you are correct. I must have been looking at an anamorphic projector lens I think. Maybe I am misunderstanding but otherwise, you are wasting pixel as they are used for the black bars? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njDMZPM81Bc&rel=0

I admit I do not know much about this as I haven't used it or look into it much. https://www.panamorph.com/home-theater-lens-options/
So the black bars count as pixels? I'm really showing my ignorance here in the video department lol. So does a PJ need to be 2:40:1 native? Or is this what the Panamorph lens do?

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post #50 of 240 Old 07-09-2017, 06:09 PM
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So the black bars count as pixels? I'm really showing my ignorance here in the video department lol. So does a PJ need to be 2:40:1 native? Or is this what the Panamorph lens do?

I don't know enough to say for sure but from what I understand when your projector does the letterboxing black bars are part of your pixel count(video signal), the projector is actually projecting the black bars on the screen. With the lens, there are no black bars and all pixels are used to produce the color areas only so your image will be more detailed and sharper. Maybe not a good or perfect analogy but you take your 1080p and make it 720p without one of those lenses. My terminology might not be right since I am in no way an expert in this area. Just found this https://www.panamorph.com/anamorphic-vs-zoom/ after writing my amateur attempt at explaining it.

Also on projector mounts, I have this one also Chief RSAU Mini Universal RPA Projector Mount I have a setup in my upstairs and was building one in my basement so I have two different room and different setups. This the one I was thinking of that was highly recommended. I bought on eBay used an open box for $85 otherwise they are $125 or so. Chief RSAU Mini Universal RPA Projector Mount https://www.amazon.com/Chief-RSAU-Un.../dp/B002QPY5IA The peerless I listed in my last one is a good one also but I think this one is considered better. In use, they seemed similar to me.

Edit also found this and maybe it will help, it will let you see the pixels on screen, light output etc. https://www.panamorph.com/pdt/

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post #51 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 05:19 AM
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Some straight up facts.

  1. Yes....using the Sony 40es, manual adjustment of Zoom and Lens Shift will be necessary to utilize a C.I.H. screen. This is not a really big deal if you have a stable mount (Chief RPA) and worth it to have maximum 2.39:1 width. You do have to be certain of your adjustable parameters.
  2. You do not lose Pixels at 2.39:1, at least within the image area itself. You only lose "use of" pixels that are within the blacked out areas.
  3. Your already determined to place the Center Channel behind a AT screen. Any 16:9 screen would surely not extend out to cover the R & L speakers...which would certainly be a obtrusive element. A extended 2.39:1 Screen combined with Black AT drapery fixes that.
  4. Absolutely, a Anamorphic Lens will increase pixel "density" within a 2.39:1 image though retention of all the pixels available, and compress a "stretched" 16:9 image to fit within a 2.39:1 area. But at a huge extra cost whose difference would easily let you instead upgrade that old, hoary Sony 40es to a Epson 5040(great) or JVC x570r (even greater), both of which have Lens Memory, and better resolution (via E-Shift 4K) than the Sony.
.
Of course, the mere fact you want to / need to use "AT" Black Masking Curtains at each side for the Speaker edges that would extrude means you also have easy "Pull Curtain Masking" to bring in any such Masking to meet the edges of the 16:9 formatted image. Any Horizontal Masking would out of necessity have to involve a Drape across the Width of a 16:9 screen, one that would "pull / drop" down to a height that matches the level of the 2.39:1 image.....and that image would still require that you get up and shift the image down to meet the lower edge of the bottom of the screen.


Horizontal Masking that moves up has always been the bane of those looking for such coverage of unused 16:9 screen area, as any Mfg versions cost a ridiculous amount, and DIY versions were always at best problematical to design and implement....gravity being a major deterrent if the screen was of any appreciable size.


No...your best bet it to go 2.39:1 as wide as possible, and determine to have to make your Lens adjustments when needed. The added bonus / benefit being that when you do decide to upgrade that 40es (...and you will, you know...) your Screen will be ready, and at the appropriate width for truly immersive widescreen viewing.


And...if you need a really good mount, call Kirk at Projector People (ext 2002) and ask for the Chief RPA "Projector Specific" mount for the Sony 40es. Don't use a Universal version, and especially not the "mini" as it is not as stable as having a custom stamped Plate made specifically for the mounting holes of the Sony. Kirk will give you special pricing (same as Amazon) if you do speak to him, and reference AVS as a referral.
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post #52 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 09:55 AM
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Sorry I've been off the grid for a week but it seems most of your questions have been handled. I do still have the falcon horizon material in place but will soon be moving to a different material to get a little more gain. I will likely be going back to the XD/Enlightor Bright material.

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post #53 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 10:02 AM
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A quick recap and latest plans after a few days of my own rambling ideas. My apologies for any unclearness for those coming in later...

-Going to eat up around 3ft for false wall. This allows a good bit of insulation for acoustical and bass purposes. Also some efforts of sound from escaping through that wall. See comment below for L&R placement but essentially every bit of open air will be pink fluffy like Carp has done. I may toy with ideas of a wall of OSB or an air gap or anything that may help with bass acoustically and bass containment. I do remember a study once showed a 10" space melted bass better by having an air gap in there rather than pure insulation. I think it was @LTD02 that linked this couple years ago?

-Going just 215RT's behind false wall. Decided them running full range plus three SI18HT near fields will be it.

-Volt surrounds although not sure if Ported 10's or 8's would be best. 8's hit down to 65hz, 10's to 45hz. Sealed 10 is 70hz.

-DIY Spandex screen White over black (2:39:1) with black spandex masking for sides. This allows my L&R 215's to creep a few precious inches outside the edges of the 134" or 11ft wide screen. If I we to put them perfectly within the 134" with toe in it would put my L&R 9.5ft apart. I want every bit I can get for 2-channel stereo and imaging. I don't think an extra 6" to each side will make any difference to the audio in relation to the screen. Many run their L&R mains outside the screen. So my theory is gain what I can and still leave at least 8" minimum on side walls for insulation/bass trapping/wall bounce.

-Single row of three seats sitting about 11.5ft back from screen.

-LFE will be routed to LCR 215RT's using a Nano AVRHD. I think this allows me to still also let my AVR route LFE to my near fields? @raynist this doable? Or at least all done with nano.

-Will be interested in Dirac so maybe a Nano-DL in series with the Nano-HD.

Sounds like a good plan to me.


Suggestions for screen materials? I like Seymour AV.

I'd get the room all set up and working kinda nice before bothering with advanced bass management (out the gate in a new house). That stuff comes later. I'd go with simple bass management at first. Make sure it all sounds good then deal with the fun bass stuff.

Good luck!
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post #54 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 10:59 AM - Thread Starter
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post #55 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 11:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Some straight up facts.

  1. Yes....using the Sony 40es, manual adjustment of Zoom and Lens Shift will be necessary to utilize a C.I.H. screen. This is not a really big deal if you have a stable mount (Chief RPA) and worth it to have maximum 2.39:1 width. You do have to be certain of your adjustable parameters.
  2. You do not lose Pixels at 2.39:1, at least within the image area itself. You only lose "use of" pixels that are within the blacked out areas.
  3. Your already determined to place the Center Channel behind a AT screen. Any 16:9 screen would surely not extend out to cover the R & L speakers...which would certainly be a obtrusive element. A extended 2.39:1 Screen combined with Black AT drapery fixes that.
  4. Absolutely, a Anamorphic Lens will increase pixel "density" within a 2.39:1 image though retention of all the pixels available, and compress a "stretched" 16:9 image to fit within a 2.39:1 area. But at a huge extra cost whose difference would easily let you instead upgrade that old, hoary Sony 40es to a Epson 5040(great) or JVC x570r (even greater), both of which have Lens Memory, and better resolution (via E-Shift 4K) than the Sony.
.
Of course, the mere fact you want to / need to use "AT" Black Masking Curtains at each side for the Speaker edges that would extrude means you also have easy "Pull Curtain Masking" to bring in any such Masking to meet the edges of the 16:9 formatted image. Any Horizontal Masking would out of necessity have to involve a Drape across the Width of a 16:9 screen, one that would "pull / drop" down to a height that matches the level of the 2.39:1 image.....and that image would still require that you get up and shift the image down to meet the lower edge of the bottom of the screen.


Horizontal Masking that moves up has always been the bane of those looking for such coverage of unused 16:9 screen area, as any Mfg versions cost a ridiculous amount, and DIY versions were always at best problematical to design and implement....gravity being a major deterrent if the screen was of any appreciable size.


No...your best bet it to go 2.39:1 as wide as possible, and determine to have to make your Lens adjustments when needed. The added bonus / benefit being that when you do decide to upgrade that 40es (...and you will, you know...) your Screen will be ready, and at the appropriate width for truly immersive widescreen viewing.


And...if you need a really good mount, call Kirk at Projector People (ext 2002) and ask for the Chief RPA "Projector Specific" mount for the Sony 40es. Don't use a Universal version, and especially not the "mini" as it is not as stable as having a custom stamped Plate made specifically for the mounting holes of the Sony. Kirk will give you special pricing (same as Amazon) if you do speak to him, and reference AVS as a referral.
MM, thanks for dropping the truth! I'm just so clueless on the video side but it's time I finally learn. I had snagged the used 40ES with 75hrs on it to simply get an decent/okay (subjective I guess) image. I would certainly be interested in the likes of a 3-4k PJ down the road. Again the goal now is to get a theater up and running and move from there. Last thing I want is one of those 2yr things of procrastination because every detail has to be perfect before I can pop a Blu Ray in the Oppo

So 11ft wide max you had recommended for the 40ES's performance, blacks, light output and shadow detail. I will certainly go out a little wider no prob at all...

Goijng to order the Spandex 'ROLLS' today, will order enough to hit 13ft to be safe although I know we won't go that wide. 2:39:1 it is...



Need to order:
-Chief Mount (will call)
-Volt 8 kits x4
-Black and white ROLLED spandex screen material (did message Seymour to see what material would be)

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post #56 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 11:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post
Sounds like a good plan to me.


Suggestions for screen materials? I like Seymour AV.

I'd get the room all set up and working kinda nice before bothering with advanced bass management (out the gate in a new house). That stuff comes later. I'd go with simple bass management at first. Make sure it all sounds good then deal with the fun bass stuff.

Good luck!
Exactly, as I just replied above I want to get up and running, not a procrastination of some lofty idea of a perfect theater, 10yr project lol! I did message Seymour but I assume it would still be more toward a grand at least?

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post #57 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post
I did message Seymour but I assume it would still be more toward a grand at least?
For a finished screen, yes. Maybe I got confused, looked like you were going to DIY your screen.

The material by itself is rather affordable. I think my 126" screen was ~$200. It wasn't much, that I can say for sure.
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post #58 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 11:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post
For a finished screen, yes. Maybe I got confused, looked like you were going to DIY your screen.

The material by itself is rather affordable. I think my 126" screen was ~$200. It wasn't much, that I can say for sure.
YES I am going DIY, I assumed it was much more!

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post #59 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 11:37 AM
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YES I am going DIY, I assumed it was much more!
There are a few options dealing with SeymourAV.

They have their main "premium" screens which are full length aluminum and the economy ones which I think are made of wood (might also be aluminum), I forget, but they are cheaper because they have a split in them. It's all on their website.


They also sell just the material cut to your specifications. Doing this and making the screen yourself should cost no more $300, depending on configuration.
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post #60 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post
There are a few options dealing with SeymourAV.

They have their main "premium" screens which are full length aluminum and the economy ones which I think are made of wood (might also be aluminum), I forget, but they are cheaper because they have a split in them. It's all on their website.


They also sell just the material cut to your specifications. Doing this and making the screen yourself should cost no more $300, depending on configuration.
I have been talking with Seymour as will about doing a DIY screen and I think you are close on your cost of around $300 or so for a 11' wide AT screen. I was looking at doing a 150" wide AT screen. They also put the grommets in it for you as well. They sent me samples and I like the XD stuff. I am still trying to sell my wife on getting a new screen when I get a new projector. This hobby tends to add up over time especially when she wants the whole basement finished as well. Seymour is usually pretty good about answering emails quickly.

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