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post #61 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 01:02 PM
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This is an interesting build as well and the 3 JTR215's will be awesome.
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post #62 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 03:44 PM - Thread Starter
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This is an interesting build as well and the 3 JTR215's will be awesome.
Yea I really dig the 215's with their bass capability in one package. It is pretty cool to have it all in one unit/speaker. I did like the JBL 4722's wider dispersion but honestly with a fireplace on one side of the room the JTR's actually I am pretty sure will be better as the narrow dispersion will bypass the fireplace with toe in aimed directly at the middle MLP seat which is mine!

I have pretty much overcome my initial negative battle with the BMS CD. Was a couple factors but a deep microprocessor reset on the Denon 4520 and moving away from a Crest PL 7.5 which has been bench tested to have the higher frequencies boosted has smoothed things out. I also feel the Cherry amps help a tad too but that has been some recent subjective kerfuffle causing Also old room was a wonky room acoustically as well. This room will be perfectly symmetrical which I am adamant about is a must in getting good small room acoustics. I hope the right rear room entrance will not impose much on that. I do plan to hang blackout curtains over the entrance and rear window so perhaps that will help.

I have a bit of planning to do as far as the room treatment theory. 9ft ceilioings but 8" beams to deal with. 215's dispersion will bypass the first beam but the second which is right over seating it will collide. I may look into seeing if I can pay a nominal fee to a pro to simply asses my developed researched plan and make a tweak here and there. I have spent some time reading up on treating a room as I find it fascinating and have come to believe it is one of the largest upgrades a system can get.

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post #63 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 03:58 PM
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Yes. Treatment has a huge impact on the sound of the system as a whole.

I highly recommend putting some time, money and effort into some acoustical treatments. It's not very difficult either.
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post #64 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 04:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes. Treatment has a huge impact on the sound of the system as a whole.

I highly recommend putting some time, money and effort into some acoustical treatments. It's not very difficult either.
Yes Sensei I was converted to a strong believer couple years back reading up on small room acoustics, through Dlbeck's theater that Nyal did and many others, Erksine rooms, and numerous other things. My initial thought for using the ceiling for a giant bass trap is from the Erksine books. But we will see what mass insulation behind AT wall does/measures first... Also some mild personal experience where I could see reflections go from -4 or -6 db clear down to past -20db and hear the difference in clarity. It really was quite satisfying.

I havn't really began yet to think about the 215's dispersion vs the room size vs seating. Essentially, with a quick look, the 215's L&R mains will be firing onto opposite back wall points with the center firing to the middle. So no lateral reflections until maybe just the slightest of the very back of the sidewall areas. Feeling the side of that 215 horn just now the very edge of that dispersion will essentially be parallel and ride the side wall without really interacting with it. That is toe in aimed maybe 2" OUTSIDE of MLP. Like the right 215 would be aimed at right ear and left at left ear, that make sense? This can be tweaked obviously. I think at a minimum something like Archaea did on his ceiling with his beam and Mackie Atmos speakers will be done. Please feel free to think out loud in respects to anything of course but the treatment plan in specific if any ideas are brewing

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post #65 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 04:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Not to disappoint Scott But a bass trap riser will not be implemented.

But to the thread in general......I am on a concrete slab and have had thoughts of a very simple basic 3-6" carpeted platform aimed at introducing tactile feedback in. There will be a single row of three seats with an SI18HT angled up into each seatback. I could extend the rear of the riser to accommodate the thin SI enclosures as well as the seating. I have zero experience with near field so maybe it's pointless? Maybe just use some shakers? I know @N8DOGG with his worlds craziest near field still felt he gained a nice improvement going to shakers.

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post #66 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 04:21 PM - Thread Starter
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I just got a reply from Seymour on DIY material...

"Getting 12ft of our Center Stage UF would be $202.40 shipped. You could save $20 if we can fold it up into a box instead of rolling it in a tube."

MM, have you compared this to spandex? Surely an actual screen material from a company designed to make them would be superior? $200 for material to $80-ish is nothing IMO.

I assume I will want this rolled? OR if he mentioned folding certainly the material is ok to be folded? Maybe just go rolled for precautions...

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post #67 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 04:25 PM
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Yes Sensei I was converted to a strong believer couple years back reading up on small room acoustics, through Dlbeck's theater that Nyal did and many others, Erksine rooms, and numerous other things. My initial thought for using the ceiling for a giant bass trap is from the Erksine books. But we will see what mass insulation behind AT wall does/measures first... Also some mild personal experience where I could see reflections go from -4 or -6 db clear down to past -20db and hear the difference in clarity. It really was quite satisfying.

I havn't really began yet to think about the 215's dispersion vs the room size vs seating. Essentially, with a quick look, the 215's L&R mains will be firing onto opposite back wall points with the center firing to the middle. So no lateral reflections until maybe just the slightest of the very back of the sidewall areas. Feeling the side of that 215 horn just now the very edge of that dispersion will essentially be parallel and ride the side wall without really interacting with it. That is toe in aimed maybe 2" OUTSIDE of MLP. Like the right 215 would be aimed at right ear and left at left ear, that make sense? This can be tweaked obviously. I think at a minimum something like Archaea did on his ceiling with his beam and Mackie Atmos speakers will be done. Please feel free to think out loud in respects to anything of course but the treatment plan in specific if any ideas are brewing
One step at a time. Measure and confirm where treatment is needed. Nothing is permanent.

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Not to disappoint Scott But a bass trap riser will not be implemented.

But to the thread in general......I am on a concrete slab and have had thoughts of a very simple basic 3-6" carpeted platform aimed at introducing tactile feedback in. There will be a single row of three seats with an SI18HT angled up into each seatback. I could extend the rear of the riser to accommodate the thin SI enclosures as well as the seating. I have zero experience with near field so maybe it's pointless? Maybe just use some shakers? I know @N8DOGG with his worlds craziest near field still felt he gained a nice improvement going to shakers.
Well good! Because... I do not like or recommend "bass trap riser's" at all.

I do recommend the subwoofer riser which is completely different.
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post #68 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 04:28 PM - Thread Starter
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The cynical's can go ahead and crucify me but but I'm pretty excited to actually finally have a theater room! Ive always been 'in transition' from living room to living room or some room. Now a completely dedicated symmetrical room with around 12ft of listening distance, giant AT screen, theater seating!!! Yea it's just taking a room and making it into a theater, not sealed and soundproofed, surround location not optimal, no Atmos just yet and a 'blah' projector and numerous things to finish on a budget but but she will do

I can hear the collective thoughts, "IT'S ABOUT DAMN TIME!!!"

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post #69 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 04:28 PM
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I put in dual Clark systhesis platinums and love them. They are good down to 5hz and are easy to power. I use a inuke 1000.
They shake the living crap outta my sofa lol. Do they shake as much as the quad 24s and JTR? It's a different kind of shake. More like a vibration vs a nf sub effect. Both together are quite awesome!!
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post #70 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 04:29 PM - Thread Starter
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One step at a time. Measure and confirm where treatment is needed. Nothing is permanent.



Well good! Because... I do not like or recommend "bass trap riser's" at all.

I do recommend the subwoofer riser which is completely different.
ughgh, in haste I mis labled Yes dem woofa riza's

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post #71 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 04:33 PM - Thread Starter
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I put in dual Clark systhesis platinums and love them. They are good down to 5hz and are easy to power. I use a inuke 1000.
They shake the living crap outta my sofa lol. Do they shake as much as the quad 24s and JTR? It's a different kind of shake. More like a vibration vs a nf sub effect. Both together are quite awesome!!
Very nice, I am sure I will try some at some point.

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post #72 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 04:36 PM
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The cynical's can go ahead and crucify me but but I'm pretty excited to actually finally have a theater room! Ive always been 'in transition' from living room to living room or some room. Now a completely dedicated symmetrical room with around 12ft of listening distance, giant AT screen, theater seating!!! Yea it's just taking a room and making it into a theater, not sealed and soundproofed, surround location not optimal, no Atmos just yet and a 'blah' projector and numerous things to finish on a budget but but she will do

I can hear the collective thoughts, "IT'S ABOUT DAMN TIME!!!"

Feels good, huh?

Now go enjoy yourself!
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post #73 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 07:10 PM
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I would definitely go with seymour av AT screen material. I love my Center Stage XD AT screen.
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post #74 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 10:33 PM
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Wait... just want to make sure here. You are going with 2:39:1 for you screen and not 16:9?

I did the manual zoom/focus thing for years before getting my current projector. Sure, it's not ideal but so worth it to me to get that massively wide image for 2:35 (err 2:39:1) image!
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post #75 of 240 Old 07-10-2017, 11:55 PM - Thread Starter
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I would definitely go with seymour av AT screen material. I love my Center Stage XD AT screen.
Agreed!

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Wait... just want to make sure here. You are going with 2:39:1 for you screen and not 16:9?

I did the manual zoom/focus thing for years before getting my current projector. Sure, it's not ideal but so worth it to me to get that massively wide image for 2:35 (err 2:39:1) image!
Yea 2:39:1, my apologies for my schizo forum behavior

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post #76 of 240 Old 07-11-2017, 12:00 AM
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Agreed!



Yea 2:39:1, my apologies for my schizo forum behavior
Ha, I've been there many times!
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post #77 of 240 Old 07-11-2017, 12:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Played a stereo config tonight with L&R placed pretty close to resting places...Reminded how the room is really the speaker until we can do our best to remove the room as much as possible so we can hear the speaker lol. Couple thoughts though from a quick raw listen. Seems like some nasty ceiling reflections overhead. Horizontal bass null exactly in middle of room where I wanted the MLP.

Sitting there I realize I do have a bit of work ahead of me. First step is going to be false wall and AT screen with all the insulation behind. Then I'll move from there. Baby Steps like Bob would say
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post #78 of 240 Old 07-11-2017, 05:04 AM
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Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post
Not to disappoint Scott But a bass trap riser will not be implemented.

But to the thread in general......I am on a concrete slab and have had thoughts of a very simple basic 3-6" carpeted platform aimed at introducing tactile feedback in. There will be a single row of three seats with an SI18HT angled up into each seatback. I could extend the rear of the riser to accommodate the thin SI enclosures as well as the seating. I have zero experience with near field so maybe it's pointless? Maybe just use some shakers? I know @N8DOGG with his worlds craziest near field still felt he gained a nice improvement going to shakers.
Were you previous rooms on concrete or suspended floor? Just curious if you have experienced both and if so your thoughts?

I only have experience on a suspended floor but was in the process of building a room in my basement(which is on hold) which will be a concrete floor. I had read some people preferred the bass on a concrete floor, I think they described it as feeling more "accurate" as in feeling the bass moving them instead of the floor. I have read that on this forum and other places online.

I know from reading feedback from most people that are on concrete that they wish the were on a suspended floor for that rolling/shake effect you get from a suspended floor. Maybe another factor if in each user use or preference of using it for music or movies? What is your main use/passion for the room? I had thought you were more into music?

Feel free to use "silky", "milky", and "smooth" etc when describing experiences, I won't judge
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post #80 of 240 Old 07-11-2017, 12:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Were you previous rooms on concrete or suspended floor? Just curious if you have experienced both and if so your thoughts?

I only have experience on a suspended floor but was in the process of building a room in my basement(which is on hold) which will be a concrete floor. I had read some people preferred the bass on a concrete floor, I think they described it as feeling more "accurate" as in feeling the bass moving them instead of the floor. I have read that on this forum and other places online.

I know from reading feedback from most people that are on concrete that they wish the were on a suspended floor for that rolling/shake effect you get from a suspended floor. Maybe another factor if in each user use or preference of using it for music or movies? What is your main use/passion for the room? I had thought you were more into music?

Feel free to use "silky", "milky", and "smooth" etc when describing experiences, I won't judge
ROFL! I am reminded after a month off of JTR there is an upper end detail of the CD that is subtly nice

The room will be ALL media. Lots of music, tons of music daily. Listening to a stereo config again and walking around the room...The length of the room along each side wall the bass seems pretty even. Along nearly most of the room in the center there is a bad null, maybe I will turn into a DTS or PL music listener but thats way down the road. I wonder if the large 5ft wide room entrance in left rear of room is causing the middle suckout along such a long length. Good news is that I have enough woofage to fix it all. I was hoping for a quality two channel alone experience though but thats okay. Baby steps! This is my first concrete floor, no impressions yet. Need a bit of time to formulate that.


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Jason are you open to treating your ceiling.
Absolutely! In fact I originally was kinda automatically set on an Erksine classic style ceiling bass trap. Erksine uses nearly EVERY seating riser as bass traps and also many ceiling decor inserts from 4-10" thick as a bass trap. Ive seen some expand up to 12x12 feet and 10" thick offering supreme bass trapping. I have read many use a thin decorative board over the ceiling trap as to not over absorb the higher frequencies. I have 8" beams so 'flushing' the ceiling to them would offer nice trapping AND 1st order reflection points from the LCR. At a minimum I will need ceiling absorption for the LCR 1st reflection points

One thing I'm kinda wondering is where to implement diffusion. The fireplace is obviously a large diffusor, maybe matching the opposite wall would add balance in that regard. I don't know enough and feel a pro could know more automatically with much thought, measuring, etc.

One thing I have learned in reading up on bass trapping in particular is it is kinda hard to over do it on bass trapping. In fact in respects to really actually having effects down into the subwoofer bass ranges one really needs over half the room if not most of it treated for bass and BIG sections 6-8" thick or more covered. All the corners, not just all four vertical corners but wall to ceiling and wall to floor along the length and width of the rooms are great spots. I think behind screen wall, ceiling would be a great starting point of mass bass trapping.

I think starting with the 10-12" thickness behind and just on either side of the L&R mains will be a great foundation for length modes. Also there will be empty gaps where the entire 40" behind screen wall will be filled with pink fluffy. Also above, I plan on doing it like Carp has done, every open air space. For the record sitting at my projected middle prime MLP seat I just stood on the chair up near ceiling all the way down to the floor. Seems with JUST a stereo config playing in a raw room there is quite a null bubble here lol! Not really a big deal IMO, we won't really know what the frequency response will look like until I get the front wall done and more. But it will be fun to see how it's affected vs the raw raw beginning measurements

Hmmm, I think an SI18HT can be mounted in a cab in as thin as 11" if I remember correctly. Ceiling mounted?

So one thing I'm wondering about. Any thoughts outside of my obsessive pea brain is invited. I am wondering if I should keep the FTW 21's behind the screen on either side of the center. There is a gap about 4ft between the center and L&R mains I can move to the best raw response. I think another two woofer locations would be more beneficial than extra pink fluffy? I have the amps, subs, etc...Can always remove and add insulation after if decided. It's way overkill but all my amps may never exceed 25% or less of capacity besides the smaller Cherries on the mains at 60hz and below...

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post #81 of 240 Old 07-11-2017, 12:53 PM
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Were you previous rooms on concrete or suspended floor? Just curious if you have experienced both and if so your thoughts?

I only have experience on a suspended floor but was in the process of building a room in my basement(which is on hold) which will be a concrete floor. I had read some people preferred the bass on a concrete floor, I think they described it as feeling more "accurate" as in feeling the bass moving them instead of the floor. I have read that on this forum and other places online.

I know from reading feedback from most people that are on concrete that they wish the were on a suspended floor for that rolling/shake effect you get from a suspended floor. Maybe another factor if in each user use or preference of using it for music or movies? What is your main use/passion for the room? I had thought you were more into music?

Feel free to use "silky", "milky", and "smooth" etc when describing experiences, I won't judge
I've read that too, that some prefer concrete. I sure don't. The feel of the floor moving is so much more intense and can be achieved with so much less fire power, as I'm sure you guys know. It was so interesting to read all of Bosso's posts for so many years about how flat bass to 5hz was so important and made such a difference... only to find out years later than his floor has a resonant frequency in the single digits which is why anytime there was bass around or below 10hz it made such a difference for him.
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post #82 of 240 Old 07-11-2017, 12:54 PM
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I'm sure I'm the wrong guy to ask but can you ever have enough subwooferage? And we're talking subs you already have built, paid for, and in your possession. If you were talking to yourself in the mirror, wouldn't you say, "Duh? What are you thinking?"

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post #83 of 240 Old 07-11-2017, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post
ROFL! I am reminded after a month off of JTR there is an upper end detail of the CD that is subtly nice

The room will be ALL media. Lots of music, tons of music daily. Listening to a stereo config again and walking around the room...The length of the room along each side wall the bass seems pretty even. Along nearly most of the room in the center there is a bad null, maybe I will turn into a DTS or PL music listener but thats way down the road. I wonder if the large 5ft wide room entrance in left rear of room is causing the middle suckout along such a long length. Good news is that I have enough woofage to fix it all. I was hoping for a quality two channel alone experience though but thats okay. Baby steps! This is my first concrete floor, no impressions yet. Need a bit of time to formulate that.




Absolutely! In fact I originally was kinda automatically set on an Erksine classic style ceiling bass trap. Erksine uses nearly EVERY seating riser as bass traps and also many ceiling decor inserts from 4-10" thick as a bass trap. Ive seen some expand up to 12x12 feet and 10" thick offering supreme bass trapping. I have read many use a thin decorative board over the ceiling trap as to not over absorb the higher frequencies. I have 8" beams so 'flushing' the ceiling to them would offer nice trapping AND 1st order reflection points from the LCR. At a minimum I will need ceiling absorption for the LCR 1st reflection points

One thing I'm kinda wondering is where to implement diffusion. The fireplace is obviously a large diffusor, maybe matching the opposite wall would add balance in that regard. I don't know enough and feel a pro could know more automatically with much thought, measuring, etc.

One thing I have learned in reading up on bass trapping in particular is it is kinda hard to over do it on bass trapping. In fact in respects to really actually having effects down into the subwoofer bass ranges one really needs over half the room if not most of it treated for bass and BIG sections 6-8" thick or more covered. All the corners, not just all four vertical corners but wall to ceiling and wall to floor along the length and width of the rooms are great spots. I think behind screen wall, ceiling would be a great starting point of mass bass trapping.

I think starting with the 10-12" thickness behind and just on either side of the L&R mains will be a great foundation for length modes. Also there will be empty gaps where the entire 40" behind screen wall will be filled with pink fluffy. Also above, I plan on doing it like Carp has done, every open air space. For the record sitting at my projected middle prime MLP seat I just stood on the chair up near ceiling all the way down to the floor. Seems with JUST a stereo config playing in a raw room there is quite a null bubble here lol! Not really a big deal IMO, we won't really know what the frequency response will look like until I get the front wall done and more. But it will be fun to see how it's affected vs the raw raw beginning measurements

Hmmm, I think an SI18HT can be mounted in a cab in as thin as 11" if I remember correctly. Ceiling mounted?

So one thing I'm wondering about. Any thoughts outside of my obsessive pea brain is invited. I am wondering if I should keep the FTW 21's behind the screen on either side of the center. There is a gap about 4ft between the center and L&R mains I can move to the best raw response. I think another two woofer locations would be more beneficial than extra pink fluffy? I have the amps, subs, etc...Can always remove and add insulation after if decided. It's way overkill but all my amps may never exceed 25% or less of capacity besides the smaller Cherries on the mains at 60hz and below...


Hmmm well, since you are on concrete it's never a bad idea to have as much headroom as possible. I don't think you will need them with the nearfield and 6 15"s upfront but I can't say that for sure.

Did I see you post something about leaving a gap betwen the pink fluffy and the front wall? I think that's a good idea, I remember reading something about getting double absorption from frequencies that make it through the insulation to the front wall and then come back? Not sure how big the gap should be though.
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post #84 of 240 Old 07-11-2017, 12:59 PM
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I'm sure I'm the wrong guy to ask but can you ever have enough subwooferage? And we're talking subs you already have built, paid for, and in your possession. If you were talking to yourself in the mirror, wouldn't you say, "Duh? What are you thinking?"
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post #85 of 240 Old 07-11-2017, 01:00 PM
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I've read that too, that some prefer concrete. I sure don't. The feel of the floor moving is so much more intense and can be achieved with so much less fire power, as I'm sure you guys know. It was so interesting to read all of Bosso's posts for so many years about how flat bass to 5hz was so important and made such a difference... only to find out years later than his floor has a resonant frequency in the single digits which is why anytime there was bass around or below 10hz it made such a difference for him.
Love my wood suspended floor and have never felt it made the bass less tight. Can't imagine any theater I build not having at least wood over concrete at a minimum.

One area a true concrete bunker does have an advantage is with keeping the bass from leaking such that it may take a lot fewer subs to pressurize a room and give immense bass. I like this idea but even in a bunker, I'd design it in such a way that the floor will still have a wood (maybe suspended on the ends) floor, which would give me the best of both worlds. And for those with a concrete bunker but not enough ceiling height, I've seen the DIY shows and it isn't that hard to bust up a concrete floor, dig the floor down a couple feet taking the dirt out bucket by bucket, and repouring the concrete floor with enough room for a wood floor. Yep, not that bad compared to some of the stuff AVSers have done.

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post #86 of 240 Old 07-11-2017, 01:21 PM
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Did I see you post something about leaving a gap between the pink fluffy and the front wall? I think that's a good idea, I remember reading something about getting double absorption from frequencies that make it through the insulation to the front wall and then come back? Not sure how big the gap should be though.
I know it is suggested in the DIY Custom Printed Movie Poster Acoustic Panels thread to leave a gap between the insulation and wall as it does help affect more of the midrange with the gap. However, I'm not sure how well that would work with longer bass waves. Not thinking it would matter much but we'd have to measure to know for sure. So jlpowell84, sounds like you have some homework.
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post #87 of 240 Old 07-11-2017, 01:23 PM
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Love my wood suspended floor and have never felt it made the bass less tight. Can't imagine any theater I build not having at least wood over concrete at a minimum.

One area a true concrete bunker does have an advantage is with keeping the bass from leaking such that it may take a lot fewer subs to pressurize a room and give immense bass. I like this idea but even in a bunker, I'd design it in such a way that the floor will still have a wood (maybe suspended on the ends) floor, which would give me the best of both worlds. And for those with a concrete bunker but not enough ceiling height, I've seen the DIY shows and it isn't that hard to bust up a concrete floor, dig the floor down a couple feet taking the dirt out bucket by bucket, and repouring the concrete floor with enough room for a wood floor. Yep, not that bad compared to some of the stuff AVSers have done.
Good lord... I wonder how much something like that would cost!!

Man that would be awesome though... oh no... you got me thinking...

Haha, my wife said I could do anything with the room but I have a feeling if I go all Kevin Bacon Stir of Echoes on her it won't go over well.
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Looking at the room I am also wondering something. Originally I was thinking the 'front edge' of seating at 11ft from screen putting a seated head around 12ft. I kinda liked the thought of what would appear like a small walkable space behind the seating even with the shallow SI18HT near field cabs. But acoustically it may be better to 'drift' the seating back and essentially get within a couple feet of the back wall. This would create a closed space behind but not a big deal, It would be tightly walkable without near field cabs but thats simply not an option!

Bass may not be over bloated on ear wall as there is a big window (see pic). Windows act as bass traps. Rather than absorbing the energy into the insulation fibers converted to heat the bass essentially is exited/escapes out the window. So a wall with no window would be much more bloated wall bass than a wall with a decent sized window. Actually maybe a blessing is disguise the window could be! This would put me around 13ft from screen with an 11-12ft wide 2:39:1 screen Yes carp I will throw an image for reference still!

SO a big consideration with this 'drifting the seating back...I think if that was the case I might need to reduce down to 5 channel with each surround firing from the upper wall to ceiling joint angled at MLP. The standard 100-110 degree location and up higher as previously mentioned. 7 channel would still be possible but seems like it would be cramped, ESPECIALLY for side seats. But as long as it wouldn't be a big distraction, catch attention during movie for the side seats it would be okay. I suppose Volts are cheap enough I wouldn't mind having a couple extra if I decided to go 5 over 7 channel...Something about making a 5 channel system bad ass is appealing...If I go 5 channel the rack will have to be moved. Have a possible location just outside of room which we rather would not put in entry area but could. One benefit would be less heat in the room. See pic, Volt's dispersion would fire into the top of rack...

Some more sideways pics At least enough we can see the window behind seating (bass trap), the chair placed in what I thought would be original seating location in respect to room depth, and one general pic of the 215's



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JLPowell84's Room
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post #89 of 240 Old 07-11-2017, 01:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dgage View Post
I'm sure I'm the wrong guy to ask but can you ever have enough subwooferage? And we're talking subs you already have built, paid for, and in your possession. If you were talking to yourself in the mirror, wouldn't you say, "Duh? What are you thinking?"
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Hmmm well, since you are on concrete it's never a bad idea to have as much headroom as possible. I don't think you will need them with the nearfield and 6 15"s upfront but I can't say that for sure.

Did I see you post something about leaving a gap betwen the pink fluffy and the front wall? I think that's a good idea, I remember reading something about getting double absorption from frequencies that make it through the insulation to the front wall and then come back? Not sure how big the gap should be though.
Yes! And in my recent post about moving seating back, forgetting about a slim walkable space behind seating...I could potentially, hold on measuring, get 60" behind false wall and still have a distance of 11ft to 'FRONT EDGE' of seating so about a 12ft seated distance from head to screen. This would make the room to appear smaller but I'm not worried about that honestly. A damn good acoustical room is TOP DOG priority period that results in excellent sound and movie experience. Just for reference that would be right about 3ft/36" of solid pink fluffy from the back of the center channel 215RT to the wall! Not to count the 5" of the window cavity that will be filled. So we could do a series of 4, 6, 8, 10, or 12 inch pink fluffy sessions and and air gap or two mingled in. I have read an air gap mingled in is more effective than solid insulation. I need to play around with the porous calculator and find the gas air flow resistivity chart on gearslutz again.

Even if we decided on eating up a big 4 ft it would still give the appearance of a 16x15 room with a 12ft wide 2:39:1 screen that would appear to float with black velvet everywhere in front half of room, single row of three seats, all the other stuff...And this gives 27" from BACK of 215 center channel to wall. Still lots of space to do like 8" of insulation, 1.5" of double drywall W/green glue, 2" air gap, then 15" of insulation to back of speakers.

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post #90 of 240 Old 07-11-2017, 01:50 PM
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Man those FTW21's make the 215's look small. That is going to be a lot of base.
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