Jlpowell84's HT Room - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 86Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 239 Old 07-02-2017, 11:13 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jlpowell84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 6,987
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1941 Post(s)
Liked: 915
Jlpowell84's HT Room

Basically from this point I am going to get up and running a 7 channel AT screen wall system ASAP then go from there. 4 Volt kits, PJ mount, some insulation, cheap DIY screen and wood materials can make this happen. Or if Jamestown, Falcon or anyone else has a line on better screen material than spandex for no more than a few hundred lemme know. But I have researched spandex a bit and many non videophiles are pretty satisfied...Running a Sony 40ES...Also I will build an AT screen wall, fill in that window (sun coming in) with insulation and one layer of insulation on the screen wall. Also the beams on the ceiling are 8" so I was planning to take the front 2/3 sections and essentially fill them with absorption panels. Imagine a ceiling flush in those two sections. That offers two large ceiling bass traps and also ceiling absorption and deadening the room up a bit. I would expect that to have a drastic effect on bass especially on the waterfall/spectro graphs. After that maybe 4 absorption panels on walls but I also intend to toy around with some diffusion for the opposite wall first reflection points of the left and right 215's, that make sense lol? The PJ mount will go mounted into the third section above the single row of seating. I also intend to build my SI 18's into nearfields Also the window behind seating AND the room opening will get blackout curtains for a totally black room. Plus velvet at least in the front 3rd of room for light control.

The pic of the black plug in is about 28" off front wall where I expect the screen wall to end up. This puts seated head distance about 12ft 4in to screen. I was thinking of putting the FRONT edge of seating about flush with the back end of the fire place. For reference that is a queen size mattress in that pic of what would be the left side surround speaker areas. Also in that corner I will put my MA rack loaded with gear. Crest amps have been fan modded and everything else is silent so no noise worries

I'm sure I'm missing something but generally wanted to get this thread up and running to generate ideas from ya'll. Wouldn't be passed HTIB if it wasn't for AVS so lets slap this room together! Oh, dimensions are 15ft wide by 20ft 4 in long with 9ft ceilings (8ft, 4in to bottom of beams).


Gear...

JTR 215RTx3, Digital Amp Co. 60V Golden Cherry Maraschino Monoblocksx3, FTW21" 17cu ft Subwoofersx2, SI18HTx4, Crest Pro Light 7.5 Subwoofer Amplifiersx2, Denon 4520, Oppo103D, Sony40es Projector, Mini DSP NanoAVR-HD, Mini DSP Open DRC-AN, Mac Mini.

I may not use the FTW subs right now, this will be a 1.2 to 2yr home max. DIY subs don't sell for too much and I don't really want to rid of them but I don't think I will need them running a trio of 215RT's full range plus near-field SI 18's. But I can't say for sure at this point.






Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4421.jpg
Views:	2670
Size:	97.5 KB
ID:	2215673   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4422.jpg
Views:	2660
Size:	120.8 KB
ID:	2215681   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4419.jpg
Views:	2632
Size:	70.2 KB
ID:	2215689   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4423.jpg
Views:	2636
Size:	97.6 KB
ID:	2215697   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4424.jpg
Views:	2630
Size:	71.3 KB
ID:	2215705  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4417.jpg
Views:	2632
Size:	127.3 KB
ID:	2215713  
femi and eng-399 like this.

JLPowell84's Room
FTW21 Ported Build
Spoiler!
jlpowell84 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 239 Old 07-02-2017, 11:14 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jlpowell84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 6,987
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1941 Post(s)
Liked: 915
reserved

JLPowell84's Room
FTW21 Ported Build
Spoiler!
jlpowell84 is offline  
post #3 of 239 Old 07-02-2017, 11:14 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jlpowell84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 6,987
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1941 Post(s)
Liked: 915
I'm sure I'm forgetting a few points but life has been a madhouse moving to another state! Ask anything!

JLPowell84's Room
FTW21 Ported Build
Spoiler!
jlpowell84 is offline  
 
post #4 of 239 Old 07-02-2017, 11:32 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jlpowell84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 6,987
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1941 Post(s)
Liked: 915
surround speaker location is up in the ceiling to wall meetings angled down at MLP or the traditional 1.5 to 2ft above head while seated. I could do this but the right side surround would fall in the room entrance opening and I could make a bracket the slides down and locks up if it provides a better experience. Looking for experienced opinions here!

JLPowell84's Room
FTW21 Ported Build
Spoiler!
jlpowell84 is offline  
post #5 of 239 Old 07-03-2017, 01:46 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
carp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 9,108
Mentioned: 508 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2833 Post(s)
Liked: 2137
I love the figuruing out of how everything is going to go in a room, I'm a bit jealous! Looks like you have a really nice space to work with!

A couple things...

It could just be my room of course, but I found that when put 18 inche of insulation on my entire front wall behind my AT screen (except for where the 1 corner sub stacks are) that I didn't want any of my ceiling acoustic panels anymore - walls too. So, the only absorption I have is that 18 inches thick layer on the front wall.

If I were you though, I would try it both ways just to be sure. I can guarantee you will want the front wall deadened, but who knows about the ceiling. The only way to know is to try both with ceiling treatments and without.

Great decision with the velvet, that's one of the best upgrades I've made to the room. I did the front half and still think about doing more. I don't want a complete bat cave, so maybe one more layer (40 inches wide if I remember?) on the ceiling and walls.

Are your nearfield 21's ported? Like you said, I too would be surprised if you need more than the nearfield and the 215's up front. However... how are you going to get LFE and routed bass from the surrounds into both your nearfield sub and LCR at the same time? In other words, I would think you would want the exact same bass going to the sub and the LRC.

BTW, am I reading that right? 21" nearfield subs? Nice.

As far as the screen, my eyes are 10 feet from 158" diagonal 2:35:1. Everyone is different but for me I wouldn't want to be any further from the screen unless it was bigger. Love the immersive feel from a massive screen.

How big of a screen are you going with?

Not going Atmos huh?
carp is offline  
post #6 of 239 Old 07-03-2017, 01:52 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
carp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 9,108
Mentioned: 508 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2833 Post(s)
Liked: 2137
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post
surround speaker location is up in the ceiling to wall meetings angled down at MLP or the traditional 1.5 to 2ft above head while seated. I could do this but the right side surround would fall in the room entrance opening and I could make a bracket the slides down and locks up if it provides a better experience. Looking for experienced opinions here!
With my somewhat deep room (23 feet deep) I never loved the sound from my side surrounds. If I put them at 90 degrees the sound seemed to pinpoint and distracted me. With the sided surrounds just a bit behind me I felt like there was a hole between my mains and sides. With the sides a bit in front of me I felt there was hole between my sided and rears.

So, I experimented with 2 sets of side surrounds. Love it. No holes and I feel more in the bubble and I don't get that distracting/poinpoint thing when I had the side surrounds directly to my sides. I know there is probably some comb filtering but I've tested out white noise and rain and when moving my head around and walking around the room I can tell that there is much, if any, of that issue.

So, I know what I'm doing is "wrong" but it works for me so just something to think about.
carp is offline  
post #7 of 239 Old 07-03-2017, 02:05 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
carp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 9,108
Mentioned: 508 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2833 Post(s)
Liked: 2137
So, my first pair of side surrounds is at 70 degrees, 2nd pair is at 110 degrees and rear surrounds are at 135 degrees. The center of all the surrounds is 53" off the ground. I wanted them pretty low since I went Atmos. They are just high enough to clear backs of chairs.

I used ladders, stacks of books, etc. and did a ton of experiementing with surround placement before getting out the drill. This was last fall after spending many years of being not totally satisfied with the surround effect in my room.

I really love the JBL (aww sh*t forgot the model number.... summer dumb...) of my surrounds. That 120 degree dispersion really shines. I like them better than my volt 10's that I had for a couple years.
carp is offline  
post #8 of 239 Old 07-03-2017, 03:58 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jlpowell84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 6,987
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1941 Post(s)
Liked: 915
Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post
I love the figuruing out of how everything is going to go in a room, I'm a bit jealous! Looks like you have a really nice space to work with!

A couple things...

It could just be my room of course, but I found that when put 18 inche of insulation on my entire front wall behind my AT screen (except for where the 1 corner sub stacks are) that I didn't want any of my ceiling acoustic panels anymore - walls too. So, the only absorption I have is that 18 inches thick layer on the front wall.

If I were you though, I would try it both ways just to be sure. I can guarantee you will want the front wall deadened, but who knows about the ceiling. The only way to know is to try both with ceiling treatments and without.

Great decision with the velvet, that's one of the best upgrades I've made to the room. I did the front half and still think about doing more. I don't want a complete bat cave, so maybe one more layer (40 inches wide if I remember?) on the ceiling and walls.

Are your nearfield 21's ported? Like you said, I too would be surprised if you need more than the nearfield and the 215's up front. However... how are you going to get LFE and routed bass from the surrounds into both your nearfield sub and LCR at the same time? In other words, I would think you would want the exact same bass going to the sub and the LRC.

BTW, am I reading that right? 21" nearfield subs? Nice.

As far as the screen, my eyes are 10 feet from 158" diagonal 2:35:1. Everyone is different but for me I wouldn't want to be any further from the screen unless it was bigger. Love the immersive feel from a massive screen.

How big of a screen are you going with?

Not going Atmos huh?
Thanks for checking in!

So no Atmos now as I have spent a bit of money from the 215's to amps to a Full suspension specialized mountain bike to moving to another state! My goal at this point is getting up and running with what I have and go from there. If I didn't already have the Denon 4520 then yea I would get an Atmos processor. As it is now four Volt 10 or JBL SCS 8's (I like the Volts ability to go smaller and custom size the enclosure), DIY screen and false wall plus insulation and a PJ mount. IMO this will provide a nice platform of a room to move forward from.

I kinda rambled on last night lol! I can be unclear at times so my apologies. But the 21's will not be near field. I was going to put them behind the screen wall at 24" depth, I'll hook them up but honestly prob won't use them unless somehow they provide an boost in room mode issues. But I was thinking of JUST the LCR 215RT's running full range via nano AVR-HD then build a couple near field boxes for the SI18HT's I have new in box still. I have four so maybe all four but can't say yet until I start getting things into the room and see what it looks like. So the DIY 21's behind screen wall honestly for storage lol!

So how thick on screen wall is good enough you think? Less room depth used better for me. At 28" I estimated 12.5ft to a seated head from the screen wall so I could eat up another 6-12 inches if it makes a drastic difference. Only neighbors are to that direction but only the opposite end of house by master bedroom.

Screen size I want to go as big as possible the Sony 40ES can handle. I'm not a video snob at all so decent is good enough for me, maybe ignorance is bliss. But generally I was going to go for a 1:1 ratio. Example is 11ft seating distance equals an 11ft wide screen. I think 2:35 screen is what I like. I prefer movies to have the ultimate performance visually. Something about 16:9 youtube vids having a larger screen I don't like.

The velvet idea is from you and others. Light reflection sucks!

JLPowell84's Room
FTW21 Ported Build
Spoiler!
jlpowell84 is offline  
post #9 of 239 Old 07-03-2017, 04:02 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jlpowell84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 6,987
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1941 Post(s)
Liked: 915
Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post
With my somewhat deep room (23 feet deep) I never loved the sound from my side surrounds. If I put them at 90 degrees the sound seemed to pinpoint and distracted me. With the sided surrounds just a bit behind me I felt like there was a hole between my mains and sides. With the sides a bit in front of me I felt there was hole between my sided and rears.

So, I experimented with 2 sets of side surrounds. Love it. No holes and I feel more in the bubble and I don't get that distracting/poinpoint thing when I had the side surrounds directly to my sides. I know there is probably some comb filtering but I've tested out white noise and rain and when moving my head around and walking around the room I can tell that there is much, if any, of that issue.

So, I know what I'm doing is "wrong" but it works for me so just something to think about.
You think a JBL SCS8 would be a big upgrade over a Volt 10LX? The JBL's large size I would have no choice than to put them up into the wall/ceiling joint. So surrounds would be up 9ft off ground aimed at MLP.

How do you run two sets of side surrounds with the processor?

JLPowell84's Room
FTW21 Ported Build
Spoiler!
jlpowell84 is offline  
post #10 of 239 Old 07-03-2017, 04:22 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
carp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 9,108
Mentioned: 508 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2833 Post(s)
Liked: 2137
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post
Thanks for checking in!

So no Atmos now as I have spent a bit of money from the 215's to amps to a Full suspension specialized mountain bike to moving to another state! My goal at this point is getting up and running with what I have and go from there. If I didn't already have the Denon 4520 then yea I would get an Atmos processor. As it is now four Volt 10 or JBL SCS 8's (I like the Volts ability to go smaller and custom size the enclosure), DIY screen and false wall plus insulation and a PJ mount. IMO this will provide a nice platform of a room to move forward from.

I kinda rambled on last night lol! I can be unclear at times so my apologies. But the 21's will not be near field. I was going to put them behind the screen wall at 24" depth, I'll hook them up but honestly prob won't use them unless somehow they provide an boost in room mode issues. But I was thinking of JUST the LCR 215RT's running full range via nano AVR-HD then build a couple near field boxes for the SI18HT's I have new in box still. I have four so maybe all four but can't say yet until I start getting things into the room and see what it looks like. So the DIY 21's behind screen wall honestly for storage lol!

So how thick on screen wall is good enough you think? Less room depth used better for me. At 28" I estimated 12.5ft to a seated head from the screen wall so I could eat up another 6-12 inches if it makes a drastic difference. Only neighbors are to that direction but only the opposite end of house by master bedroom.

Screen size I want to go as big as possible the Sony 40ES can handle. I'm not a video snob at all so decent is good enough for me, maybe ignorance is bliss. But generally I was going to go for a 1:1 ratio. Example is 11ft seating distance equals an 11ft wide screen. I think 2:35 screen is what I like. I prefer movies to have the ultimate performance visually. Something about 16:9 youtube vids having a larger screen I don't like.

The velvet idea is from you and others. Light reflection sucks!

I would say the thicker the better on the front wall, so go with as much as you can for the amount of space you are willing to part with. I went from wall to screen, so that the speakers are basically in a pink fluffy baffle wall. That's what I would do if I were you.






Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post
You think a JBL SCS8 would be a big upgrade over a Volt 10LX? The JBL's large size I would have no choice than to put them up into the wall/ceiling joint. So surrounds would be up 9ft off ground aimed at MLP.

How do you run two sets of side surrounds with the processor?
I thought it was worth it, but it's not like the Volt 10's aren't a very good speaker. I do hate the depth of the SCS8's, that's for sure.

For the second set of surrounds I run the pre out of the AVR to an older AVR that has main ins. I did some digging about how much delay you are supposed to add to another set of side surrounds and tried it but ended up liking the results better by just leaving it along and not adding any delay. I don't know if it's right or not, but I like it better than having one set of side surounds to that's all that matters to me. I'm not saying you should do it... I think having 2 rows also motivated me to try it.
carp is offline  
post #11 of 239 Old 07-03-2017, 07:50 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jlpowell84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 6,987
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1941 Post(s)
Liked: 915
Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post
I would say the thicker the better on the front wall, so go with as much as you can for the amount of space you are willing to part with. I went from wall to screen, so that the speakers are basically in a pink fluffy baffle wall. That's what I would do if I were you.


I thought it was worth it, but it's not like the Volt 10's aren't a very good speaker. I do hate the depth of the SCS8's, that's for sure.

For the second set of surrounds I run the pre out of the AVR to an older AVR that has main ins. I did some digging about how much delay you are supposed to add to another set of side surrounds and tried it but ended up liking the results better by just leaving it along and not adding any delay. I don't know if it's right or not, but I like it better than having one set of side surounds to that's all that matters to me. I'm not saying you should do it... I think having 2 rows also motivated me to try it.
Gotcha, I like low cost at this point. Plus it's not like a LCR 215's with four Volt 10 surrounds and a 11-12ft wide screen with a Sony 40ES in a room with much much attention to small room acoustics/treatment will be a bad experience! I want to get up and running for minimum at least for the immediate.
carp likes this.

JLPowell84's Room
FTW21 Ported Build
Spoiler!
jlpowell84 is offline  
post #12 of 239 Old 07-07-2017, 09:28 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jlpowell84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 6,987
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1941 Post(s)
Liked: 915
Looking at some seating, maybe I will start a thread to ask but...Don't want to drop bunch of cash, sounds like how every purchase starts lol!

But I see super cheap PU and Faux fake leather chairs on Amazon for as low as 169 a chair and real Top grain leather starting around 400 a chair. I am going to do a very simple three seats in a single row (I finally get the prime middle seat!!!) so this helps. I def don't want to spend more than 1400 maybe 1500 tops. I do like 1200 more

I found these on Amazon but I'm also going to place a call to my home town acquaintance who owns a furniture store and see what he can do for me as I will be making the 5 hr drive back for a night in a couple weeks. I think he can only get Lane HT seating if I remember correctly but they are pretty decent but mostly bonded leather.

I like these Coaster top grain leather ones because it's like 3 individual chairs next to each other with each having it's own armrest. It also gives the feel of 'more individual space' if that makes sense.

Here is the Coaster set I'm really digging
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XR7X6Q?psc=1

@carp I know you have been through a seating journey and have done very well at finding deals, testing out different seating. What do you say? Costco does have some nice chairs at $400 each here in Redding CA but only red and I def want black.

@beastaudio I know you as well have been through a seating change a time or two and have excellent taste and know where that cost to performance/quality threshold is. What say you?



Also it's settled after talking to a fellow AVS DIY PJ screen nut that 11ft wide will be max that I can do in 2:39:1 to maintain light and dynamics with my PJ. Totally fine as I have laid out some towels to mock up the exact width and with just three seats it will be great Also seated head distance will end up 11.5 to 12.5 ft back so it's pretty close to keeping the 1:1 ratio I wanted.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4531.jpg
Views:	1345
Size:	146.0 KB
ID:	2222593  

JLPowell84's Room
FTW21 Ported Build
Spoiler!
jlpowell84 is offline  
post #13 of 239 Old 07-07-2017, 12:50 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jlpowell84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 6,987
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1941 Post(s)
Liked: 915
Welp, I found the linked coaster 3 seat config for $1179 out the door so I ordered it. It is real top grain leather although I certainly understand it won't be as nice as a 3k set or super premium seating. But I like the look, reviews seem decent, blah blah blah. All three seats from edge to edge is 114 inches, the 11ft wide screen is 134 inches. The two outer seats will still have around 2.2 ft of screen to the outside so all seats will have a stellar view. I am stoked to finally get a center premium seat for sound!

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	coaster-cyrus-image-02.jpg
Views:	1340
Size:	14.3 KB
ID:	2222985  
HTPCat likes this.

JLPowell84's Room
FTW21 Ported Build
Spoiler!
jlpowell84 is offline  
post #14 of 239 Old 07-07-2017, 01:05 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jlpowell84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 6,987
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1941 Post(s)
Liked: 915
Measuring my original planned 30" for false wall puts seated heads 12.5-13ft back from screen so I am going to go ahead and eat up 8-12" of insulation on the original wall behind speakers. I am curious if the corners should I do corner wedges or does anyone think the insulation will be good? Also I remember from playing around with the 'porous calculator' which shows graphed data of absorption properties at all frequencies of different types of insulation using the gas air flow resistivity specs...that pink fluffy is pretty much king of kings at anything over 8 inches thick.

I also am interested in some effort of sound containment. I know without a sealed room it's kinda pointless but my question here is will that single wall behind the false wall and speakers be beneficial to add a layer of drywall/OSB or any combination of dampening materials? Or should I just do 12" of pink fluffy and call it a day? Air gaps? The only neighbor is out that window...I also considered outside building a small 'concealing wall' on the other side of the walkway in which I could do another layer of sound eating insulation! I have mega woofage but also don't listen at crazy levels other than revving the gas and I find my new Cherry amps a Flat XT32 calibration is very bass heavy/thick/full whatever it is.

Progress! also need to decide what to line/cover the window with? I want a clean look from outside...Once I get that I can continue on filling the window cavity then the 8-12", hell lets just do 12", then the speakers and false wall!!!

Also here is my screen advice and the route I'm taking.
Quote: "Milliskin Spandex is still the Top Dog Choice, both in quality and cost....although White over Black has supplanted White over Silver (...or White / White) as having the best image quality.
(Bright Colors & Whites as well as deeper, more satisfying Blacks and Shadow details)

11' wide @ 15.5' Throw is the biggest 2.39:1 size you can contemplate. Anything wider, and/or at a longer throw will result in very low foot lambert levels (ie: no real dynamics)" End Quote.

Please anyone chime in on anything! Nothing too dumb to advise or tell me!

JLPowell84's Room
FTW21 Ported Build
Spoiler!
jlpowell84 is offline  
post #15 of 239 Old 07-07-2017, 01:10 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jlpowell84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 6,987
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1941 Post(s)
Liked: 915
Not sure what to do with my 21's. 17cu ft ported, 15.7hz tune, 2ftx2ftx6ft, two of these monsters. FTW21 driver with 34mm Xmax driven by Crest PL 7.5 amp. I'm not going to hook them up I think. The 215's are near identical port tune. I also have four SI18HT's I was going to do near field behind seating. I suppose I could do the two 21's there but they would need more mounting depth and therefore more room behind seating. I like the around 11-12 inches the SI's need. Won't really be walking back there but it is visual from entering home and I like the shallower depth better. Thoughts?

Also for three seats should I do four SI's? I don't have experience with near field and have read @Archaea talking about getting the driver as far into seat back as possible the best. Four would put drivers not exactly into seat back but one additional driver. If three how would that config with my two channel Crest PL 7.5? Original plan was a row of four with two on each channel getting a little over 1000 watts each...

JLPowell84's Room
FTW21 Ported Build
Spoiler!

Last edited by jlpowell84; 07-07-2017 at 01:13 PM.
jlpowell84 is offline  
post #16 of 239 Old 07-07-2017, 01:39 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
carp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 9,108
Mentioned: 508 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2833 Post(s)
Liked: 2137
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post
Welp, I found the linked coaster 3 seat config for $1179 out the door so I ordered it. It is real top grain leather although I certainly understand it won't be as nice as a 3k set or super premium seating. But I like the look, reviews seem decent, blah blah blah. All three seats from edge to edge is 114 inches, the 11ft wide screen is 134 inches. The two outer seats will still have around 2.2 ft of screen to the outside so all seats will have a stellar view. I am stoked to finally get a center premium seat for sound!



I don't have any experience with those chairs but that is a great price! I'm so picky with chairs... so I ended up spending way too much on the first pair that I bought. I'm glad I did it because I love them and they stay comfortable over long periods of time and are that wider style (26 inch from arm to arm).

The other 2 seats were from Costco and were 500 a piece. My wife prefers them because you don't sink into them as much.

I'll be interested to hear your thoughts because if these chairs ever wear out there is no way I want to spend that much again.

Nice that none of the seats will be right next to the wall!
jlpowell84 likes this.
carp is offline  
post #17 of 239 Old 07-07-2017, 01:47 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
carp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 9,108
Mentioned: 508 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2833 Post(s)
Liked: 2137
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post
Measuring my original planned 30" for false wall puts seated heads 12.5-13ft back from screen so I am going to go ahead and eat up 8-12" of insulation on the original wall behind speakers. I am curious if the corners should I do corner wedges or does anyone think the insulation will be good? Also I remember from playing around with the 'porous calculator' which shows graphed data of absorption properties at all frequencies of different types of insulation using the gas air flow resistivity specs...that pink fluffy is pretty much king of kings at anything over 8 inches thick.

I also am interested in some effort of sound containment. I know without a sealed room it's kinda pointless but my question here is will that single wall behind the false wall and speakers be beneficial to add a layer of drywall/OSB or any combination of dampening materials? Or should I just do 12" of pink fluffy and call it a day? Air gaps? The only neighbor is out that window...I also considered outside building a small 'concealing wall' on the other side of the walkway in which I could do another layer of sound eating insulation! I have mega woofage but also don't listen at crazy levels other than revving the gas and I find my new Cherry amps a Flat XT32 calibration is very bass heavy/thick/full whatever it is.

Progress! also need to decide what to line/cover the window with? I want a clean look from outside...Once I get that I can continue on filling the window cavity then the 8-12", hell lets just do 12", then the speakers and false wall!!!

Also here is my screen advice and the route I'm taking.
Quote: "Milliskin Spandex is still the Top Dog Choice, both in quality and cost....although White over Black has supplanted White over Silver (...or White / White) as having the best image quality.
(Bright Colors & Whites as well as deeper, more satisfying Blacks and Shadow details)

11' wide @ 15.5' Throw is the biggest 2.39:1 size you can contemplate. Anything wider, and/or at a longer throw will result in very low foot lambert levels (ie: no real dynamics)" End Quote.

Please anyone chime in on anything! Nothing too dumb to advise or tell me!


I don't know for a fact, but I would think that going with insulation all the way from wall to wall would be much better than using any kind of corner wedge.

I think it's a good idea to go with a bigger size if you are trying to decide on 2 different sizes. Have you used that projector in the past? If not, I highly recommend throwing an image on a wall and playing with different sizes to see what you think. That's what I did and I immediately realized I wanted the largest picture that could fit on the wall.
carp is offline  
post #18 of 239 Old 07-07-2017, 01:51 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
carp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 9,108
Mentioned: 508 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2833 Post(s)
Liked: 2137
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post
Not sure what to do with my 21's. 17cu ft ported, 15.7hz tune, 2ftx2ftx6ft, two of these monsters. FTW21 driver with 34mm Xmax driven by Crest PL 7.5 amp. I'm not going to hook them up I think. The 215's are near identical port tune. I also have four SI18HT's I was going to do near field behind seating. I suppose I could do the two 21's there but they would need more mounting depth and therefore more room behind seating. I like the around 11-12 inches the SI's need. Won't really be walking back there but it is visual from entering home and I like the shallower depth better. Thoughts?

Also for three seats should I do four SI's? I don't have experience with near field and have read @Archaea talking about getting the driver as far into seat back as possible the best. Four would put drivers not exactly into seat back but one additional driver. If three how would that config with my two channel Crest PL 7.5? Original plan was a row of four with two on each channel getting a little over 1000 watts each...

I would definitely do 1 driver per chair, firing right into the dead center of each chair. In fact, if it were me I would only have the sub on right behind my chair unless other people were over for a movie and then I would turn on the other 2 subs.

Nice problem to have, not needing the 21's! If the bass isn't enough for you without them then you could try them but other than that, I agree that you probably won't need them.
carp is offline  
post #19 of 239 Old 07-07-2017, 01:51 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jlpowell84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 6,987
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1941 Post(s)
Liked: 915
Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post
I don't have any experience with those chairs but that is a great price! I'm so picky with chairs... so I ended up spending way too much on the first pair that I bought. I'm glad I did it because I love them and they stay comfortable over long periods of time and are that wider style (26 inch from arm to arm).

The other 2 seats were from Costco and were 500 a piece. My wife prefers them because you don't sink into them as much.

I'll be interested to hear your thoughts because if these chairs ever wear out there is no way I want to spend that much again.

Nice that none of the seats will be right next to the wall!
Yea my intention is to place the seating in the rear 3/4 point of room length to avoid the middle suckout and the rear wall bloating!

JLPowell84's Room
FTW21 Ported Build
Spoiler!
jlpowell84 is offline  
post #20 of 239 Old 07-07-2017, 01:51 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
carp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 9,108
Mentioned: 508 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2833 Post(s)
Liked: 2137
How are you going to get the LFE/re-routed bass to the LRC and nearfield subs at the same time?
carp is offline  
post #21 of 239 Old 07-07-2017, 01:57 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jlpowell84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 6,987
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1941 Post(s)
Liked: 915
Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post
I don't know for a fact, but I would think that going with insulation all the way from wall to wall would be much better than using any kind of corner wedge.

I think it's a good idea to go with a bigger size if you are trying to decide on 2 different sizes. Have you used that projector in the past? If not, I highly recommend throwing an image on a wall and playing with different sizes to see what you think. That's what I did and I immediately realized I wanted the largest picture that could fit on the wall.
Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post
I would definitely do 1 driver per chair, firing right into the dead center of each chair. In fact, if it were me I would only have the sub on right behind my chair unless other people were over for a movie and then I would turn on the other 2 subs.

Nice problem to have, not needing the 21's! If the bass isn't enough for you without them then you could try them but other than that, I agree that you probably won't need them.
Thanks for chiming in So one driver per seat back...how does that config with my amp? Should I just run all three on one PL 7.5 channel? I will have two PL 7.5's available so I could just run one per 3/4 channels. extra headroom should not damage as long as volume/gain wasn't jacked right? Even then nearfield I would think would have less gain being so close.

Yea I can't bring myself to sell them for so cheap in the DIY world. Maybe I'll start a DJ business and put them on caster wheels lol! Garage is pretty dry in Redding CA so I think living out there is just fine The extra gaps behind false wall in between 215's with pink fluffy will be beneficial I would think.

JLPowell84's Room
FTW21 Ported Build
Spoiler!
jlpowell84 is offline  
post #22 of 239 Old 07-07-2017, 02:29 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
carp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 9,108
Mentioned: 508 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2833 Post(s)
Liked: 2137
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post
Thanks for chiming in So one driver per seat back...how does that config with my amp? Should I just run all three on one PL 7.5 channel? I will have two PL 7.5's available so I could just run one per 3/4 channels. extra headroom should not damage as long as volume/gain wasn't jacked right? Even then nearfield I would think would have less gain being so close.

Yea I can't bring myself to sell them for so cheap in the DIY world. Maybe I'll start a DJ business and put them on caster wheels lol! Garage is pretty dry in Redding CA so I think living out there is just fine The extra gaps behind false wall in between 215's with pink fluffy will be beneficial I would think.
How many watts per channel would you be giving the drivers? I've seen plenty of guys power them with 100-1200 watts per SI 18 with no issues of over powering the drivers.
carp is offline  
post #23 of 239 Old 07-07-2017, 02:53 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
bscool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 1,108
Mentioned: 38 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 693 Post(s)
Liked: 554
I don't know if you have looked into Silver Ticket screens but they are pretty good and the price is very good. I would think a DIY you will have a couple hundred in material plus the work and I don't know how portable they are to take apart since it sounds like you will be moving or maybe in a couple of years but the Silver Ticket is easy to disassemble and put back into the box when moving. There is a ST thread on AVS for feedback if you want to see what others thought about them.

So even though one of these might be $500 the time and convenience of easy disassembly(resale value vs DIY?) might make it worth it in the long run? Unless the DIY is that much cheaper to make than I think maybe this isn't a good value for you.

STR-235138-WAB Silver Ticket 2.35:1 4K Ultra HD Ready Cinema Format (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen (2.35:1, 138", Woven Acoustic Material)

https://www.amazon.com/STR-235138-Si...00I4WT570?th=1

HTPC, Sony 40es, 120" Silver Ticket, 7702mkii, Sunfire Amp 225w, JBL 590, JBL 520

PSA XS30, Seaton Submersive, 2 Um-18 8cf sealed, Outlaw Ultra x 12, Kappa Pro 18LF, BFM Tuba 60 horn, B&C 18TBW100 6cf 41hz, 34hz, 28hz tune

iNuke 3000 & 6000 DSP's, Crowson Motion Actuator
bscool is offline  
post #24 of 239 Old 07-08-2017, 02:29 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jlpowell84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 6,987
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1941 Post(s)
Liked: 915
Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post
How many watts per channel would you be giving the drivers? I've seen plenty of guys power them with 100-1200 watts per SI 18 with no issues of over powering the drivers.
Each channel the PL 7.5 gives like 2240 per channel. My original goal was a FTW ported 21 on each channel of one PL, then the four SI18's all on the other PL with a pair per channel. Those numbers were a match made in heaven. I bet all three SI 18's would be just fine on a single channel yea? little over 700 watts per?

JLPowell84's Room
FTW21 Ported Build
Spoiler!
jlpowell84 is offline  
post #25 of 239 Old 07-08-2017, 09:58 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
carp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 9,108
Mentioned: 508 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2833 Post(s)
Liked: 2137
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post
Each channel the PL 7.5 gives like 2240 per channel. My original goal was a FTW ported 21 on each channel of one PL, then the four SI18's all on the other PL with a pair per channel. Those numbers were a match made in heaven. I bet all three SI 18's would be just fine on a single channel yea? little over 700 watts per?

Yes, 700 watts per driver would easily be enough.
carp is offline  
post #26 of 239 Old 07-08-2017, 01:14 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jlpowell84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 6,987
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1941 Post(s)
Liked: 915
Quote:
Originally Posted by bscool View Post
I don't know if you have looked into Silver Ticket screens but they are pretty good and the price is very good. I would think a DIY you will have a couple hundred in material plus the work and I don't know how portable they are to take apart since it sounds like you will be moving or maybe in a couple of years but the Silver Ticket is easy to disassemble and put back into the box when moving. There is a ST thread on AVS for feedback if you want to see what others thought about them.

So even though one of these might be $500 the time and convenience of easy disassembly(resale value vs DIY?) might make it worth it in the long run? Unless the DIY is that much cheaper to make than I think maybe this isn't a good value for you.

STR-235138-WAB Silver Ticket 2.35:1 4K Ultra HD Ready Cinema Format (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen (2.35:1, 138", Woven Acoustic Material)

https://www.amazon.com/STR-235138-Si...00I4WT570?th=1
I will consider that and have thought about it. I think a DIY Miliskin spandex white over black screen would be about $100. I am awaiting a PM reply for a material estimate and will search the DIY spandex threads a well.

Thanks for the tip though! I did own a non AT 93" Silver Ticket screen as my first and was very very impressed with the quality. Jamestown has Seymour XD material for a $600 screen but I only see 16:9 options. I will call and see if they can do other.

Have you (or Carp) toyed around with other aspect ratios? I was recommended 2:39:1. I don't know jack squat about the video side besides my Spears and Munsil calibration disc...

JLPowell84's Room
FTW21 Ported Build
Spoiler!
jlpowell84 is offline  
post #27 of 239 Old 07-08-2017, 01:57 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jlpowell84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 6,987
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1941 Post(s)
Liked: 915
I think this is about where the speaker could end up. 10 inches from the back wall and 10 inches from the sidewall AT THE CLOSEST POINTS FROM TOE IN. Is 10" enough? With toe in there will be some nice gaps that can all be filled with pink fluffy with the largest areas where the toe in angles it away from the wall up to 18"!

Ughgh, sorry they are sideways. They are normal until I upload



Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4551.jpg
Views:	1240
Size:	139.1 KB
ID:	2225233   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4550.jpg
Views:	1236
Size:	110.1 KB
ID:	2225241   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4552.jpg
Views:	1239
Size:	184.4 KB
ID:	2225249   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4553.jpg
Views:	1237
Size:	189.9 KB
ID:	2225257  

JLPowell84's Room
FTW21 Ported Build
Spoiler!
jlpowell84 is offline  
post #28 of 239 Old 07-08-2017, 04:39 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jlpowell84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 6,987
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1941 Post(s)
Liked: 915
Think this is the spot for the rack
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4548.jpg
Views:	40
Size:	171.0 KB
ID:	2225465   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4549.jpg
Views:	42
Size:	125.6 KB
ID:	2225473  
eng-399 likes this.

JLPowell84's Room
FTW21 Ported Build
Spoiler!
jlpowell84 is offline  
post #29 of 239 Old 07-08-2017, 04:39 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jlpowell84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 6,987
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1941 Post(s)
Liked: 915
Anyone know why the uploads are coming in sideways? They are normal on my Mac...

JLPowell84's Room
FTW21 Ported Build
Spoiler!
jlpowell84 is offline  
post #30 of 239 Old 07-08-2017, 04:45 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jlpowell84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 6,987
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1941 Post(s)
Liked: 915
So here is where I'm going to put the four Volt 10 surrounds unless someone comes in emphatically that it acoustically far inferior. I know it's not ideal but it's the most practical for the room and I don't think the overall experience will be bad at all. It's about 2.5ft higher than Volts I had before. Plus I will be able to hit the sides at the proper 110 degree and the rears in proper location as well. Just all four being 2.5ft higher than they should. All Aimed at MLP.

Chair is placed in direct center. Angles may not make placement appear right...Single row of three seats seen in post above...



Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4554.jpg
Views:	1224
Size:	124.4 KB
ID:	2225481   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4555.jpg
Views:	1224
Size:	116.9 KB
ID:	2225489   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4556.jpg
Views:	1218
Size:	92.3 KB
ID:	2225497   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4557.jpg
Views:	1224
Size:	131.7 KB
ID:	2225505  

JLPowell84's Room
FTW21 Ported Build
Spoiler!
jlpowell84 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply General Home Theater & Media/Game Rooms

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off