My Theater Bar - Heynow^'s Version - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 556 Old 09-24-2008, 12:27 PM - Thread Starter
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You would have to raise your base as its only 3/8 inch. Not a bad price since I paid $70 for the oak.
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post #362 of 556 Old 09-24-2008, 12:27 PM
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Looking on that same link I found this sweet look flooring that I may get for mine.

http://www.carpet-wholesale.com/item...Earth_Tone.php
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post #363 of 556 Old 09-24-2008, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

You would have to raise your base as its only 3/8 inch. Not a bad price since I paid $70 for the oak.

True. You would need to put an extra 1/2" piece of plywood down for a base on top of the 3/4" that's already down.
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post #364 of 556 Old 09-26-2008, 08:14 AM
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Here's my bar that i am in the process of finishing. Went with a copper top for a different look. now comes the envirotex...HeyNow Thanks again for your post, it has helped alot of us out.

The Copper Pub /Corey Lane Cinema

"Sir, I'm going to have to ask you to exit the donut." IRONMAN 2
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post #365 of 556 Old 09-26-2008, 08:27 AM
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Another shot ,,,sorry the pictures are from my cell phone, not the best quality.

The Copper Pub /Corey Lane Cinema

"Sir, I'm going to have to ask you to exit the donut." IRONMAN 2
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post #366 of 556 Old 09-26-2008, 08:29 AM
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The Copper Pub /Corey Lane Cinema

"Sir, I'm going to have to ask you to exit the donut." IRONMAN 2
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post #367 of 556 Old 09-26-2008, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by LSWHO View Post



That's a cool idea. Where did you get the copper and what did it cost you? Was it already beaten or did you do that yourself? I was thinking that might look pretty cool on the front of my bar where I created the fake raised panels using the picture frame type trim. Put that in the middle of each frame.
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post #368 of 556 Old 09-26-2008, 08:54 AM
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Do you think you will have any problem getting the Envirotex to bond with the coper?
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post #369 of 556 Old 09-26-2008, 09:04 AM
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str1der - I covered the copper with a spray called "copper shield" this stops the patina look from happening ( I don't want it to turn the greenish color and want it to stay as is) and also allows a top coat such as laquer to be applied to it. I tested it on some scrap 6" x6" pieces with the spray then the envirotex and it worked fine. I am hoping the much larger piece still works fine. I also bought the copper in a rolled up sheet and plain. I then cleaned it with wenol and then used a drill with a wire brush to give it the swirls and three dimensional look. this also made scratches on the copper which helped the spray to adhere to. So i am confindent it should hold up as well. I'll let you know when it is done though foresure.

The Copper Pub /Corey Lane Cinema

"Sir, I'm going to have to ask you to exit the donut." IRONMAN 2
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post #370 of 556 Old 09-26-2008, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by str1der View Post

That's a cool idea. Where did you get the copper and what did it cost you? Was it already beaten or did you do that yourself? I was thinking that might look pretty cool on the front of my bar where I created the fake raised panels using the picture frame type trim. Put that in the middle of each frame.

I bought it from a place called storm copper (google and you'll find the website). It was around a $85 bucks for the .10 thick 12 x 10 ft rolled up sheet. (free shipping) It was easy to cut, mold etc. I used DAP contact cement for metal (red can) and applied it on the wood and metal and used a J roller to smooth it out. I made 3 panels like this and rolled the edges around the sides. I then took a drill with a wire brush and made the circle swirls in it. in person it looks really cool but hard to get it on a picture.

The Copper Pub /Corey Lane Cinema

"Sir, I'm going to have to ask you to exit the donut." IRONMAN 2
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post #371 of 556 Old 09-26-2008, 04:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice work, I replied in your bar thread....thanks for posting your results.
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post #372 of 556 Old 09-26-2008, 09:43 PM
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Nice work, I replied in your bar thread....thanks for posting your results.

Randy thanks for posting in my new thread, it's an honor. I envy your full size helmets collection, I could onnly afford the mini helmets and they still cost me $500 bucks for all 32 teams.... I only have 5 full size but I still need to get the alternative or retro mini helmets or maybe college wonder how that will go over with the wife.....

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"Sir, I'm going to have to ask you to exit the donut." IRONMAN 2
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post #373 of 556 Old 09-27-2008, 01:35 PM
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HeyNow...did you know your bar plans are listed here?
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post #374 of 556 Old 09-27-2008, 04:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey, if anyone can use any of the ideas of the MANY contributers that posted on this thread, go for it! I wish I had seen some of the fine examples of bars that were posted in this thread and others on AVS before I started...
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post #375 of 556 Old 09-28-2008, 07:55 AM
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Heynow - what kegerator do you have and any thoughts on it? Or did you convert an existing fridge?

The Copper Pub /Corey Lane Cinema

"Sir, I'm going to have to ask you to exit the donut." IRONMAN 2
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post #376 of 556 Old 09-28-2008, 04:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Not sure, but you can see the same unit at Superior Products. I wouldn't buy it there....since it is too pricey. I have had my unit more than seven years and I have zero complaints. The wife got it for me one Christmas. I have seen very nice units at Sams Club.
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post #377 of 556 Old 10-07-2008, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

Not sure, but you can see the same unit at Superior Products. I wouldn't buy it there....since it is too pricey. I have had my unit more than seven years and I have zero complaints. The wife got it for me one Christmas. I have seen very nice units at Sams Club.

Well as always I jumped and purchased one from Haier and after Dinger23 sent me a link to a forum on all of the Kegerators I found out the Haier is one of the problem ones...LOL, we'll see though some peoples junk is another mans gold. When it comes to beer though it better work. Did you do any mods to yours? What temp do you have yours set at?

The Copper Pub /Corey Lane Cinema

"Sir, I'm going to have to ask you to exit the donut." IRONMAN 2
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post #378 of 556 Old 10-07-2008, 07:13 PM
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Dennis
I have a friend that has a Haier and has not had any problems after he figured out his CO2 pressure. I've never owned one and I know many people on that forum I sent you have had some issues. I'd suggest that you test how low you can get the liquid temp and if it meet the temp that your beer needs to be than your set.

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post #379 of 556 Old 10-08-2008, 04:46 AM - Thread Starter
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I used to have my Kegerator set to the lowest temp I could get. After battling frozen beer lines which of course caused foam city, I backed off on the temp just a bit. When you first put a keg in, give it 48-72 hours to get up to temp. I know that seems like a long time, but you are dealing with 15.5 gallons of liquid with a 1/2 keg.

Remember to let it set a few hours before you tap (if you can). I have my CO2 set at 10 psi. Before I add CO2, I release all pressure in the keg. Then turn on the CO2 and let her rip!

I haven't done any modes as others have, i.e. putting a different t-stat on it to lower the temp. Mine is perfect. Relax and pour
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post #380 of 556 Old 10-08-2008, 05:55 AM
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Okay thanks for the tips randy. It is suppose to be here today or tomorrow so I may have some more questions for ya.

Dennis

The Copper Pub /Corey Lane Cinema

"Sir, I'm going to have to ask you to exit the donut." IRONMAN 2
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post #381 of 556 Old 10-08-2008, 03:02 PM
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Waiting a few hours to tap the keg? Is that possible? All kidding aside that is good advice. Many people slap the keg into the kegerator, tap it right away and wonder why they have foam. Then they keep openning the door and messing with the psi dropping the temp of the beer.

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post #382 of 556 Old 10-09-2008, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

You would have to raise your base as its only 3/8 inch. Not a bad price since I paid $70 for the oak.

Randy,

What exactly did you do the seal/fill the cracks between the hardwood planks before laying the envirotex. The hardwood that I got is prefinished and I am not sure how to "seal" just the joints/cracks to prevent bubbling and unevenness when the envirotex is poured.

I behalf of everyone here, thanks for all your tips, tricks, and help.

Brett

My Build Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1067354


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post #383 of 556 Old 10-09-2008, 06:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Just use a wood filler over the entire area. The same kind they use to finish wood floors prior to stain and finish. It won't harm the top finish. You DO NOT have to put a finish on the filler prior to pouring Etex. The Etex will stick to anything (except Dennis' Bar Rail ).
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post #384 of 556 Old 10-13-2008, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

Just use a wood filler over the entire area. The same kind they use to finish wood floors prior to stain and finish. It won't harm the top finish. You DO NOT have to put a finish on the filler prior to pouring Etex. The Etex will stick to anything (except Dennis' Bar Rail ).

HEY NOW !!!!! now I understand your screen name... and I thought it was a Howard Stern thing...

The Copper Pub /Corey Lane Cinema

"Sir, I'm going to have to ask you to exit the donut." IRONMAN 2
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post #385 of 556 Old 11-16-2008, 08:43 AM
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This thread needs a bump and I vote for it to be a sticky

Check out Dinger's
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post #386 of 556 Old 11-18-2008, 11:08 AM
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Heynow I have a question for you if you don't mind. I'm looking to build a barback similar to yours, I was wondering if you could let me know what some of the dimensions are: mainly the size of each box on the side and the size of the area were the middle is, and the size mirror you used. Yours is very visually pleasing and I dont want to build one that looks out of proportion.

Thanks,
Brian
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post #387 of 556 Old 11-18-2008, 11:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Lefty,

Let's start from the bottom and work our way up. This is so simple, you will say, duh.

Bottom = 1X6 92 1/4" long - Solid oak - with waist trim

Box (2 ea) = 1X6 21 3/4 " wide by 3 feet high - Solid oak - with holes drilled for shelves plus trim. Back is 1/4 rabbit with 1/4 plywood backing to fit. Waist trim on front left and right sides only

Top = 1X6 92 1/4" long - Solid oak- trimmed with Oak Crown molding

Mirror is 4' X 3' Lowes beveled.

Edited when I got home...close before someone checks my math...

How easy was that?

Good luck.
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post #388 of 556 Old 11-18-2008, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
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This thread needs a bump and I vote for it to be a sticky

I second the sticky vote.

The Copper Pub /Corey Lane Cinema

"Sir, I'm going to have to ask you to exit the donut." IRONMAN 2
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post #389 of 556 Old 11-18-2008, 03:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Go Buckeyes!
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post #390 of 556 Old 11-19-2008, 04:34 AM
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I appreciate the info, how do you have the mirror mounted inside the middle box, also how do you have the entire barback mounted (I think I see some mounting brackets at the bottom, is that all that holds it)?

Again, I really appreciate the help.
Brian
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