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post #91 of 218 Old 03-18-2008, 06:40 PM
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I also used the epoxy. It was a 2 part and our bar is 12 ft. we used 4 boxes and it was about $20. a box. It was much easier than I thought. Here's a picture and more on Bar and Game room complete!!!
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post #92 of 218 Old 03-18-2008, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IrmoGamecoq View Post

I bought my envirotex at a local AC Moore, a national crafts-store chain (similar to "Michael's"). They have 40% off coupons readily available in Sunday circulars, and also have an email list you can join where they will mail you a coupon once a week. I believe they also accept Michael's 40% off coupons as well.

Exactly what I did @ Michael's....


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post #93 of 218 Old 03-19-2008, 06:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rniehoff View Post

I also used the epoxy. It was a 2 part and our bar is 12 ft. we used 4 boxes and it was about $20. a box. It was much easier than I thought. Here's a picture and more on Bar and Game room complete!!!

What size boxes , please
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post #94 of 218 Old 03-19-2008, 06:26 AM
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Probably the biggest one available...I think it's a gallon size.

The cartons shown what kind of SF you can get from each though.
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post #95 of 218 Old 03-25-2008, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rniehoff View Post

I also used the epoxy. It was a 2 part and our bar is 12 ft. we used 4 boxes and it was about $20. a box. It was much easier than I thought. Here's a picture and more on Bar and Game room complete!!!

Looks Great!
Acouple of questions for you and Neuner;

Did you let the wood acclimate like Neuner suggested?

How did you attach the wood planks to the base underneath? (glue, nails?)

Where did you get the bar rail from, and what type of wood is it?

I know what Neuner used on his rail. How about you?

Thanks,
Hutch
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post #96 of 218 Old 03-26-2008, 05:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rniehoff View Post

I also used the epoxy. It was a 2 part and our bar is 12 ft. we used 4 boxes and it was about $20. a box. It was much easier than I thought. Here's a picture and more on Bar and Game room complete!!!

That turned out really nice!

I glued mine down. I was unsure of nailing it since I didn't know if it might give over time. I wanted to make sure it was secure. I'm wishing that I had also let the wood planks acclimate for some time as well. They have since very slightly curled and formed minor ridges on the top. It still looks really good, but it's not quite the glass smooth that it originally started out with.


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post #97 of 218 Old 03-26-2008, 05:43 AM
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Neuner - The planks still curled up even under the Envirotex?
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post #98 of 218 Old 03-26-2008, 06:02 AM
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Irmo,

Remember the environtex remains flexible, so I would think it would follow the drying and humidity of the wood.

Randy


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post #99 of 218 Old 03-26-2008, 06:16 AM
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Yeah, but I figured it would "seal" the wood and keep it from being exposed to the air that would dry it out. Maybe it's drying out from underneath.
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post #100 of 218 Old 03-26-2008, 06:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Yep, still curled. It has to be from underneath.


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post #101 of 218 Old 03-26-2008, 06:23 AM
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Sorry to hear it.

I'd imagine another coat of enviro on top might level it off and provide enough "cushion" between the surface of the enviro and where the planks are in order to forestall any future curling. It's probably one of those things that only you would notice though, I'm sure it still looks great.
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post #102 of 218 Old 03-26-2008, 08:15 AM - Thread Starter
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We're in the process of selling our home and all of the potential buyers gape at how good it looks so I'm not worried. Even if we were to stay I'd leave it as is b/c it's nothing bad. It actually gives some appeal like I put on 5,000 coats of polyurethane which wouldn't have been even.


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post #103 of 218 Old 03-26-2008, 09:15 AM
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tips for using EnviroTex ( from the website)

 

Environmental Technology Inc. tips.pdf 63.357421875k . file
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File Type: pdf Environmental Technology Inc. tips.pdf (63.4 KB, 5 views)
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post #104 of 218 Old 03-28-2008, 01:51 PM
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Nice job on the bar and bar top. Did you cut the cove moldings on the front of the bar yourself or buy them stock? I'm considering doing a bar later but was unsure how to do the complicated moldings on the front. I may just wimp out and finish it with a simple bull-nose.
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post #105 of 218 Old 06-06-2008, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by French Quarter View Post

Nice job on the bar and bar top. Did you cut the cove moldings on the front of the bar yourself or buy them stock? I'm considering doing a bar later but was unsure how to do the complicated moldings on the front. I may just wimp out and finish it with a simple bull-nose.

You can buy the moldings at some of the lumber yards (not HD or Lowes). You can also get it at Rockler.

Kyess

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post #106 of 218 Old 06-06-2008, 06:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by French Quarter View Post

Nice job on the bar and bar top. Did you cut the cove moldings on the front of the bar yourself or buy them stock? I'm considering doing a bar later but was unsure how to do the complicated moldings on the front. I may just wimp out and finish it with a simple bull-nose.

Sorry, I didn't see your post. AVSforum failed to notify me. I bought the bar rail (top edge piece, elbow rest) stock from McDaniels Hardwood out of Virginia. I'd contact them or look around at some local shops. They might have a different name to them so you'll have to be creative in your search. One of the better ones around St. Louis is called St. Charles Hardwood. They have just about any type of molding or shape you could want.


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post #107 of 218 Old 06-06-2008, 07:06 AM
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Here is McDaniels new web page. http://www.mcdanielhrdwds.com/

They now show pics and sizes of their products. BTW they are in the eastern panhandle of West Virginia... I think Dick Cheney has some relatives there.

Randy


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post #108 of 218 Old 06-06-2008, 07:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Ah, yes. That is them. WEST Virginia - thought I had it wrong. They are excellent to work with, honest and treat you very well.


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post #109 of 218 Old 10-04-2008, 03:49 AM
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There is a really cool product out there called "Bio-810". It is an epoxy rthat gives a near glass like finish and is impervious to everything except fire and steelwool.
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post #110 of 218 Old 10-05-2008, 01:11 PM
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Quick question about Envirotex pour. I have a small gap between where the bar rail and bar top meet. Is there something I should use to fill that tiny gap before pouring?
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post #111 of 218 Old 10-05-2008, 01:35 PM
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I'd probably put something in that gap. Otherwise the Envirotex will try to go in the gap. Remember, It is about as thick as honey when ready to pour. Maybe you can use wood putty, or a clear glue of some sort to fill in the gap? If the gap is REALLY tiny, then it may not matter much. The Envirotex may setup before it gets too far, but if it does, look where will it go? I'd rather not take that chance.

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post #112 of 218 Old 10-05-2008, 04:44 PM
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I sealed my bar rail/top gap with brown silicone. During my pour I sealed my other gaps under the bar with DUCT tape....yep, duct tape. If you have access under the bar it works great. Pull it off after it's set up. You can also use it as a Dam to hold the Etex on the edges until it sets.

Randy


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post #113 of 218 Old 10-05-2008, 05:03 PM
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I had thought about the silicone but I was affraid the Envirotex might not adhere to it properly. I've went ahead and put stainable wood filler in there which will probably do the trick.
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post #114 of 218 Old 10-05-2008, 05:46 PM
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Yes, I agree, I worried about that also. However, the Etex is like peanut brittle, it sticks to everything very well.

Randy


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post #115 of 218 Old 10-13-2008, 10:07 PM
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One more Envirotex question. I'll be using Envirotex to coat the bar top in my new basement theater. The bar has an arm rail on one side, but nothing to hold the Envirotex on top of the bar on the other side. It's somewhat similar to the pictures rniehoff posted above. What has everyone used to hold the Envirotex in place (like a dam) until it sets up? I saw HeyNow mention duct tape -- are there any other options? If duct tape is my choice, does the Etex stick to the tape when you try to remove it?

I'm a long time lurker -- first time poster. Thanks to all of you over the past several years as I've gathered invaluable information for my basement build. Carpet is coming later this week and I'm finally starting to feel like I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!
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post #116 of 218 Old 10-14-2008, 06:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Since I used a wood plank top I needed a way to finish the back side of the bar so I trimmed a piece of wood so that it hooked up & over the top of the bar by about 1/8". I routed the back side of the board to give it a smooth rounded finish. You can sort of see it in this photo of the top before the Envirotex was poured. If you have a tray as your finish you can do something similar but your trim wouldn't be as tall.



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post #117 of 218 Old 10-16-2008, 06:36 PM
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Thanks Neuner.
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post #118 of 218 Old 04-06-2009, 02:05 PM
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I have a round wooden table that I would like to decorate with coins and bills and then put a thick poly coating over all. Have any of you done the Envirotec over something as thick as a coin? I'm a complete newbie and could use any advice. Thanks!
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post #119 of 218 Old 04-06-2009, 02:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Since the valleys, grooves and imperfections of a natural wood plank floor is of or greater than the thickness of coins, then I would say yes.

I would try to attach the coins to the top first so they don't move during the coating process.


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post #120 of 218 Old 04-06-2009, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cayogal View Post

I have a round wooden table that I would like to decorate with coins and bills and then put a thick poly coating over all. Have any of you done the Envirotec over something as thick as a coin? I'm a complete newbie and could use any advice. Thanks!

Yes it will work, as you'll see in the picture below the molding I did on top of the cigar box was as thick as a quarter, it works no problem plus you can add additional coats as well. I also have done some with pictures and playing cards that also worked with no problem. You can get it up to a 1/4" thick at a time.



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