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post #61 of 87 Old 08-30-2009, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by super_b View Post

Im getting ready to install a wall-plate setup, but I recently discovered (via handy studfinder) that my living room wall has a fire stop about 4 feet up - directly between the bottom wirebox and the top wirebox! Note: For those not familiar - a firestop is a piece of wood or insulation installed in your wall that prevents the space between the studs from turning into a chimney if there is a fire. In my case, the firestop is a horizontal 2x4 nailed between the two studs.

I called the fire marshal and he recommended getting some fireproof caulking for sealing up any holes I drill in firestop. However, I still haven't decided how I'm going to get the wires through the firestop. I'll have to cut a hole in the drywall to access the firestop, and then cut through the firestop, and then patch everything back up. Arrgh! Adding caulk and sealing the wall back up basically makes the wiring job permanent, which is frustrating if I want to add some other wires later. Here's a picture of what im talking about:

The back of the wall that the tv is going on is shared with a wall in my office (actually in a closet in the office), so I was thinking about putting an access panel in the closet so I can get to the firestop from the other side.

Has anybody else had to deal with the firestop situation, and if so, how did you get around it?

If those 2x4s are not firebreaks, but rather structural, you can use a long flexible drill bit (Greenlee makes them and they should be in the electrical section of Homedepot) to pass through them and leave your wall in tact.
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post #62 of 87 Old 08-30-2009, 05:27 PM
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firebreaks are randomly put in the wall at different heights and are ussually only on exterior walls and garage walls....

from my experience
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post #63 of 87 Old 10-06-2009, 08:36 AM
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OK, I have gotten a couple of questions about the actual Toslink Keystones. I thought they were in this thread but I guess they are not. I got mine from Video Products Inc. www.vpi.us they have lots of other stuff as well.

Here is a link to their page of Keystone inserts.

http://www.vpi.us/keystone-inserts.html

They are also availabe a few other placs around the web.

VPI also has a few different Powerbridge systems with jacks already mounted if you want to go that way.

http://www.vpi.us/wp-power.html




I just noticed an ad here at AVS from a company called www.firefold.com that also has Lots of Keystone stuff, including theToslink. I have nver ordered from them though.

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Do you want a nice Keystone Jack panel behind your TV with HDMI, and Toslink? Check This Thread at AVS
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post #64 of 87 Old 12-28-2009, 05:33 PM
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While looking for some info about mounting and connecting a new 55" tv i came across this thread and forum. Both are great, thanks for the information.

I hadnt considered adding the electical socket to the plate also but that will solve a problem i was going to have. I am mounting a 55" Samsung LED using their ultra slim mount that mounts the TV flush against the wall like a picture. My question about that electrical socket is what about a surge protector? What good is it to have that plug there if you dont want to plug any AV equipment straight into it? Thanks in advance for the replies and again for all the great info in this thread.
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post #65 of 87 Old 12-30-2009, 07:19 AM
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Well, many people are doing the power bridge thing where you can supply power rfom a surge protector into a remote power inlet, which in turn powers the outlet behind the TV.

XBOX Live: SheriffTruman

Do you want a nice Keystone Jack panel behind your TV with HDMI, and Toslink? Check This Thread at AVS
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post #66 of 87 Old 01-14-2010, 10:33 AM
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I just have a a couple of quick questions! Where did you get the 12 port plate, connectors and labels. And how much did it run you?
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post #67 of 87 Old 01-14-2010, 12:18 PM
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The place I got the plate from does not carry it anymore, but looks like Parts Express does. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=151-196 I updated the original post also.

The labels we made on a Dymo label printer and I honestly can't remember the cost, maybe $60 total for the plates and jacks. But if you have a situation where you can see behind the TV it looks so much better than just having cables run out the wall. ALso, it is nice if you might need to do hookups in teh future, as long as you run the cable in teh wall, you can hook it up pretty easily without removing the TV from the wall.

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Do you want a nice Keystone Jack panel behind your TV with HDMI, and Toslink? Check This Thread at AVS
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post #68 of 87 Old 01-14-2010, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lex0429 View Post

While looking for some info about mounting and connecting a new 55" tv i came across this thread and forum. Both are great, thanks for the information.

I hadnt considered adding the electical socket to the plate also but that will solve a problem i was going to have. I am mounting a 55" Samsung LED using their ultra slim mount that mounts the TV flush against the wall like a picture. My question about that electrical socket is what about a surge protector? What good is it to have that plug there if you dont want to plug any AV equipment straight into it? Thanks in advance for the replies and again for all the great info in this thread.

Leviton makes a few different surge protector receptacles that you could insert into the Carlon panel (or any box). Check out the Leviton 5280. I found mine at Home Depot (not allowed to post links yet)


I also use a small Monster HTS 350 surge protector, which mounts flat to the wall and plugs in the wall outlet with a rotating, right angle plug and has two side-mounted outlets. My plasma tilts forward, so I mounted the HTS 350 towards the top of the TV where there is more clearance. Got mine at Best Buy (overpriced but they price-matched Amazon)

I wish I had seen the Carlon 3-gang recessed wall plate earlier. Would have saved me some headaches and head-scratching. I did use a Leviton recessed entertainment box behind my component console. That allowed me to make a large enough cut-out in my wall to fit a drill inside and punch a hole down through the floor plate (and some brick!) and into my basement to run cables. The box covers the large hole nicely and gives me spaces to add an outlet and 2 6-port keystone plates.
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post #69 of 87 Old 02-14-2010, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by -Christopher View Post


This certainly fits my needs better. Does anyone know if it works with the 5280-W (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006I33Y6/)
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post #70 of 87 Old 02-18-2010, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Validatorian View Post

This certainly fits my needs better. Does anyone know if it works with the 5280-W (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006I33Y6/)

The answer is no

Now I need something just like that wallplate with AC power and 4-keystone slot. Anyone have ideas?
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post #71 of 87 Old 04-06-2010, 07:55 AM
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In a few of these pictures, I notice 4 or 6 speaker posts (plugs?) that have been installed with the HDMI/Component/SVideo/Ethernet for behind a Flat Screen. Why?

I am running my R/C/L front speaker wires through the walls to plates behind the speakers, not the LCD. Is there any reason to wire speaker wire to my flat panel????
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post #72 of 87 Old 04-07-2010, 11:48 AM
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Great thread, thanks for all the info. I'm planning to do the power bridge method with a Sanus ML11 and a new 46" Panny G25. Running 1 HDMI, 1 Coax, and 1 ethernet. Hopefully it will work ok.
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post #73 of 87 Old 04-16-2010, 06:59 AM
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Erik

Thanks for the link, VPI, Firefold and PE were all out of stock, I just ordered three of these from Microbarn.

°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°
Basement HT/Family Room | Status: 11.24.2010: 95% Complete, Working on trim and details
°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°...
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post #74 of 87 Old 05-27-2010, 04:38 PM
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For anyone who is interested in a keystone hdmi insert with a bendable extension:
http://www.hometech.com/hts/products...va-820490.html
They are a little pricey but one of the few keystone solutions that would actually work well with very heavy duty cable that don't bend easily.
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post #75 of 87 Old 06-22-2010, 10:29 AM
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Does anyone know of any HDMI Keystone jacks that are build with a right angle for behind the wall?
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post #76 of 87 Old 07-02-2010, 11:23 AM
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Has anyone tried to used the Pro Wire MP-8 In-Wall Media Panel. I was thinking of doing a complete setup of all the connections from my TV to the panel. This way I would have to connect everything I need to the panel.


LL
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post #77 of 87 Old 08-10-2010, 12:24 AM
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Does anyone know of a shource for black HDMI keystone inserts? All I can find are white or a few ivory.

Thanks, Pete
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post #78 of 87 Old 03-19-2011, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eq_shadimar View Post

From forum sponsor Monoprice:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10425

Scroll down to the bottom of the product list. They even have them in black.

Laters,
Jeff

Jeff, is this where you purchased the wall plates that you posted in your pics? I like your setup the most, nice pics, very professional looking.
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post #79 of 87 Old 03-24-2011, 12:54 PM
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Lowe's has HDMI key stones for about $13. The only problem is the two I had stopped working. I'm not sure if they're not compatible with HDMI 1.4 or what the problem is.
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post #80 of 87 Old 11-28-2011, 10:16 PM
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This thread has been very helpful! I've had my TV off the wall and contemplating my options for 4 days, but this helped me decide what to do!!

Does anyone know if the flexible HDMI keystone connector below is HDMI 1.4 (High Speed/ 3D) compatible?
http://www.hometech.com/hts/products...va-820490.html
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post #81 of 87 Old 11-29-2011, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestfieldAVR View Post

This thread has been very helpful! I've had my TV off the wall and contemplating my options for 4 days, but this helped me decide what to do!!

Does anyone know if the flexible HDMI keystone connector below is HDMI 1.4 (High Speed/ 3D) compatible?
http://www.hometech.com/hts/products...va-820490.html

\\You should give them a call and ask. They people at Hometech are very friendly and have a small store in Cupertino,CA.

I am using these and they have been working great, but I also only using HDMI 1.3+Ethernet.
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post #82 of 87 Old 12-29-2011, 01:00 PM
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I attempted many media boxes, special wall plates, various keystone solutions, etc to manage all the cabling for our new PN64D8000. Nothing would do the trick. Staring at the wall one night, sipping on a glass of wine, it occurred to me that what was really needed was a patch panel behind the TV. See the attached pdf slide show for my story, problem and solution to the wiring mess.

I did consider installing a simple box in the wall for aesthetics, but I was already pushing the limit by wedging a 3.5" patch panel into a 3.25" wall space.

The ideal solution, if anyone actually made such a thing, is to have a metal box that fits between 16" on-center studs, has a vertical opening of 8"-10" and has a removable keystone patch panel at the top equivalent to the version I used in my posted solution. Of course it would need to be no more than about $30. It seems that would be the killer solution for many who have posted to this thread.

 

Hanging the Tube v2 low.pdf 494.4150390625k . file

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post #83 of 87 Old 01-30-2012, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrettB0727 View Post

\\You should give them a call and ask. They people at Hometech are very friendly and have a small store in Cupertino,CA.

I am using these and they have been working great, but I also only using HDMI 1.3+Ethernet.

Has anyone found out yet if these really will pass HDMI 1.4 / 1.4a? They're way too expensive to get it wrong (I need 4, so this is going to set me back $100 just for HDMI keystone ports!).

If I don't hear from anyone maybe I'll try calling myself in the morning...

Each moment only once.
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post #84 of 87 Old 03-10-2012, 10:27 PM
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What wires should not sit on top of each other?? Im about to run rg6, cat5/6, hdmis, optical and speaker wire all in conduit but is it a bad idea to put them all together?
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post #85 of 87 Old 03-12-2012, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theben07 View Post

What wires should not sit on top of each other?? Im about to run rg6, cat5/6, hdmis, optical and speaker wire all in conduit but is it a bad idea to put them all together?

These are all signal level wiring and either shielded, fiber optic or differential signaling (common noise rejection) with the exception being the speaker wire. Optical signalling has no issues with EMI/RFI. One could argue a speaker signal could interfere with the other electronic signalling but in the out chance it does, it would only be intermittent for the duration the sound waveform was strong enough -- unlike 50/60hz power line interference which would be continuous.

If you remain unconvinced, invest in a shielded length of speaker wire for the conduit run -- but depending on the cable length, your bass and high signals will be attenuated by the extra capacitance in the cable. Instead, use CL rated speaker wire. Most CL rated speaker wire has the internal wires twisted a number of turns per foot. This twist gives the speaker signal a certain level of immunity to cross talk that is not present with two conductor "zip cord" speaker wire. You really don't care about signals from the CATn or HDMI inducting their signals into the speaker wire. Just the opposite -- you care about the amplified speaker signal being inducted into the CATn or HDMI. With twisted pair speaker wire, most of its signal emissions will be canceled by the closely coupled return path of the twisted speaker wire. I wouldn't have any problem running the signals you mention all in the same conduit using CL speaker wire.

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post #86 of 87 Old 10-17-2013, 09:39 PM
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Hello
I will like to know where you get/buy all the pieces ?

Thank you
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post #87 of 87 Old 10-18-2013, 04:37 PM
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You know you are asking a question in a thread that has been dead for a year and a half, right? Chances are the folks from the original thread aren't even around any longer.

What pieces?
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