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post #271 of 1592 Old 10-29-2008, 07:21 AM
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The quarter molding is fairly common for hardwood floor installations. Often they use oak and leave it unpainted.


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post #272 of 1592 Old 10-29-2008, 10:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Another quick question. My HT guy had recommended that everything be done except for the trim for his arrival. So he would come and put up the linacoustic, batting, GOM and then do the install. My GC just asked me why would we install the carpet prior to his arrival. And I'm not sure. In most of the other threads, the carpeting is done as the very last step. HELP!


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post #273 of 1592 Old 10-29-2008, 10:20 AM
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It's been done both ways.

BEFORE:

1) No risk of damaging walls/equipment during install
2) Some normal wear and abuse during the fabric install work.
3) Need to be sure the tack strip is set back from the wall an amount to compensate for the future furring strips and baseboards, otherwise if you ever need to get the carpet up you are facing a more difficult process because the carpet will be trapped around the edges.
4) Can see what the carpet/fabric combination will look like if you need to abort your choice of fabric.

AFTER:

Always concerns that the carpet layers might damage something, walls, screen, projector,

I ended up doing the carpet install after everything else. In fact I think I watched movies for about a year without carpet. I removed the projector and screen from the room for safekeeping. In your design you would need to remove your front speakers so they can carpet the stage.


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post #274 of 1592 Old 10-29-2008, 10:36 AM
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Going to mention one last common error I've seen.

You need to plan the location of furring strips so that you have a good solid base to secure baseboards, chair rails, door case, and Crown molding.

Lets take the worst offender, crown molding. If you bang a furring strip up tight to the ceiling, after the wall treatments are installed you will have a problem. Let's say you have crown molding that hangs down 4 inches. Where are you going to rest the bottom edge, On the 1 inch thick springy wall treatment?

No, you need to have the top furring provide a landing for the bottom edge of the crown molding. It also needs to be high enough that the molding hides the fabric staples.

On baseboards, door molding, and chair rails if they are wide, two parallel furring strips works best to provide a secure base for the molding.


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post #275 of 1592 Old 10-29-2008, 10:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Going to mention one last common error I've seen.

You need to plan the location of furring strips so that you have a good solid base to secure baseboards, chair rails, door case, and Crown molding.

Lets take the worst offender, crown molding. If you bang a furring strip up tight to the ceiling, after the wall treatments are installed you will have a problem. Let's say you have crown molding that hangs down 4 inches. Where are you going to rest the bottom edge, On the 1 inch thick springy wall treatment?

No, you need to have the top furring provide a landing for the bottom edge of the crown molding. It also needs to be high enough that the molding hides the fabric staples.

On baseboards, door molding, and chair rails if they are wide, two parallel furring strips works best to provide a secure base for the molding.

Those were the EXACT questions my GC was asking after my HT guy sent over the following pics:

Back Wall


Right Wall


Left Wall


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post #276 of 1592 Old 10-29-2008, 10:59 AM - Thread Starter
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So would you recommend he double up on the top and bottom since I've got pretty thick crown and trim? Also, with those kind of furring strips how exactly does one hide the staple except for behind crown, chair rail and base trim (i.e. on the sides how does it get hidden)? Thanks.


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post #277 of 1592 Old 10-29-2008, 12:01 PM
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I would double up the strips. Your theater guy doesn't appear to have much experience at putting up wall treatments and molding (sorry).

Also there are tricks to putting up the fabric such as wrapping it around the back of a furring strip before you attach it to the wall that hides the staples in inside corners. Next to the columns he will pull the column out and staple on the edges facing the columns. He did instruct you to leave room for the thickness of the fabric didn't he?

If he told you to have the furring screwed to the walls with drywall screws there is a chance he plans to remove the necessary strips to do this job right. If not he may be using the fold over technique in the front corners.

If he leaves the staples exposed he is a novice and should stick to his day job.

He may have overlooked the AC unit in the back, I'm not sure of it's design, You would have to look close to figure out how to deal with it.

One last concern is looking at your proscenium in the side angle view, how much space did your GC leave at the top. Is it enough that the whole assembly can sit on carpet?


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post #278 of 1592 Old 10-29-2008, 12:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I would double up the strips. Your theater guy doesn't appear to have much experience at putting up wall treatments and molding (sorry).

Also there are tricks to putting up the fabric such as wrapping it around the back of a furring strip before you attach it to the wall that hides the staples in inside corners. Next to the columns he will pull the column out and staple on the edges facing the columns. He did instruct you to leave room for the thickness of the fabric didn't he?

If he told you to have the furring screwed to the walls with drywall screws there is a chance he plans to remove the necessary strips to do this job right. If not he may be using the fold over technique in the front corners.

If he leaves the staples exposed he is a novice and should stick to his day job.

He may have overlooked the AC unit in the back, I'm not sure of it's design, You would have to look close to figure out how to deal with it.

One last concern is looking at your proscenium in the side angle view, how much space did your GC leave at the top. Is it enough that the whole assembly can sit on carpet?

I will follow-up and see whether it's drywall screws (hopefully) and not the liquid nails (sigh). I think he may have overlooked the LG. GC already commented about that. I just had a conversation with my GC about the corners and recalled a while back you had mentioned to me to have him leave a few furring strips unattached so that the HT guy would be able to staple the fabric and then nail and pull fabric in order to adequately hide the staples. And yes, the GC also mentioned he will likely have to shave some off of the proscenium.

Regarding the columns, I'm not quite following how that works. It sounds like just pull out the colum and staple the fabric inside the column so that the staple is hidden and then just pull it around the outside? But I don't follow what you mean when you say he did instruct you to leave enough room for the fabric? Also, once the column gets wrapped how do you adequately secure it to the wall without any nails/screws being seen.


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post #279 of 1592 Old 10-29-2008, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by queendvd2 View Post

Regarding the columns, I'm not quite following how that works. It sounds like just pull out the column and staple the fabric inside the column so that the staple is hidden and then just pull it around the outside? But I don't follow what you mean when you say he did instruct you to leave enough room for the fabric? Also, once the column gets wrapped how do you adequately secure it to the wall without any nails/screws being seen.

OK, to attach the fabric to the wall you pull out the columns and staple the wall fabric to inside edges of the furring strips surrounding the sides of the column.

To finish the columns you wrap the fabric around and fasten to the back of the columns (the part resting on the wall)

Now you've got to put the column back and your have 4 thicknesses of fabric added. If you start out before fabric with furring strips mounted snug to the column you will never get the column back in place. you need to leave enough of a gap in anticipation of 2 layers of fabric on both sides.

You (GC) put blocking (screwed in place) on the ceiling and the floor that sits just behind the front edge 2x4 on the very top and bottom face of the column. When you are ready to secure it into place you drive screws through those front edge 2x4s into the blocking. The screw heads will be hid by the molding at the top and bottom.


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post #280 of 1592 Old 10-29-2008, 12:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok, I think I've got it now. But once they're wrapped how do you secure the column to the wall without a nail/screw being seen?

Also, given my layout and install conditions (HT guy comes for just two days and then leaves) would you recommend the carpet being installed before or after the HT guy?


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post #281 of 1592 Old 10-29-2008, 03:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Day 43: Closets painted. More chair rail installed. Some more work with the windows. False wall changed to wood on top and bottom. Put up the blue tape to illustrate the 54x96 screen. I measured the shelf and that appears to be at the 9.75" height BIG recommended. But I think I've got a slight measurement problem. The inside of the blue tape represents where the actual screen will go up to but the deluxe trim adds another 3.25" to each side. So right now, I've got 11.5" from the shelf to the bottom of the tape. My frame will end up covering some of my center channel. That shelf might have to go down a bit more in order for the screen not to block the speaker.

I had read that you lose about 30% on the top and bottom for a 2.35:1 movie on a 16:9 screen. Does anyone have the exact measurements so that I can put up some more tape and decide whether the image is too small. Thanks.

False Wall With Blue Tape


Hall With Chair Rail


Playroom With Chair Rail


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post #282 of 1592 Old 10-29-2008, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

You (GC) put blocking (screwed in place) on the ceiling and the floor that sits just behind the front edge 2x4 on the very top and bottom face of the column. When you are ready to secure it into place you drive screws through those front edge 2x4s into the blocking. The screw heads will be hid by the molding at the top and bottom.

I added this to the other message in an edit.


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post #283 of 1592 Old 10-29-2008, 04:43 PM
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going to state the obvious. Divide the width of your screen image by 2:35 and that is the height of a 2:35 movie with the black bars.

Time to slap forehead with palm of your hand.


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post #284 of 1592 Old 10-29-2008, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by queendvd2 View Post

Also, given my layout and install conditions (HT guy comes for just two days and then leaves) would you recommend the carpet being installed before or after the HT guy?

Before, but be sure you understand and demand that the tack strip be positioned the appropriate distance from the wall in anticipation of the furring and base molding. You don't want the edge of the carpet to get trapped forever.

That way any fine tuning of the proscenium height can be done before it gets covered with fabric. You also won't have to worry about damage to any of your gear or fabric walls.


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post #285 of 1592 Old 10-29-2008, 04:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

going to state the obvious. Divide the width of your screen image by 2:35 and that is the height of a 2:35 movie with the black bars.

Time to slap forehead with palm of your hand.

Ok, make that BOTH palms to the forehead!


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post #286 of 1592 Old 10-30-2008, 04:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I added this to the other message in an edit.

So presumably then those screws get driven in right over the fabric? Was worried that it might eventually create a larger tear down the road.


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post #287 of 1592 Old 10-30-2008, 05:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Before, but be sure you understand and demand that the tack strip be positioned the appropriate distance from the wall in anticipation of the furring and base molding. You don't want the edge of the carpet to get trapped forever.

That way any fine tuning of the proscenium height can be done before it gets covered with fabric. You also won't have to worry about damage to any of your gear or fabric walls.

Wouldn't the carpet guy know exactly where to place the tack strip since all of the furring strips will already be in place?


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post #288 of 1592 Old 10-30-2008, 06:20 AM
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He may think that is your baseboard. I also wasn't sure you would have them in place by then.


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post #289 of 1592 Old 11-01-2008, 09:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Days 44 and 45: Quarter molding installed all around the room. GC didn't have the foresight to use oak so he has to paint to match my base trim. I don't mind since I actually prefer it to blend in with the trim, but indeed it's more work for him. Shelving put up in a few closets. I'm thinking that some shelving in the opposite end of the equipment closet would be good to store dvds. Security guy came and secured all the windows, installed motion detector and new fire alarm. Made sure the egress window will trigger the alarm if it's opened or shattered since they could conceivably just steal everything in that closet and be on their way without triggering the motion detector. Medicine cabinet moved down a few inches. I think I've got about three or four inches left but I need to accommodate for the countertop (maybe 1 1/4" onyx-still not sure).

New Height For Cabinet-Thanks BIG!


Quarter Molding


Motion Detector


False Wall - Decided to Stick With 16:9. Comfortable with viewing size and still get to keep my (Uptown's) proscenium design.


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post #290 of 1592 Old 11-04-2008, 09:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I would double up the strips.

Quick follow-up question. Would one furring strip on top work if it's place exactly where the crown would meet? Since the crown is covering the upper portion why do you still need to put batting and GOM? Or does that potentially compromise how the GOM will look?

Spoke to HT guy. Doesn't appear that he will be exposing any staples. He will be employing either the fold over or attach GOM then screw furring strip in method.


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post #291 of 1592 Old 11-04-2008, 09:42 AM
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On the top crown molding, one furring strip located so that the bottom of the crown sits very near the bottom of the furring strip is all that is needed.

Two strips for wide chair and base molding.


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post #292 of 1592 Old 11-04-2008, 11:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes, the furring strip is sitting exactly where the bottom of the crown would hit. My chair rail and base molding will be the same as in the playroom. Not sure about the chair whether two strips are necessary since it's about average size, but the base is pretty thick.

I'll throw out an idea that the GC threw out. For the chair rail since my riser is SO high, would it make sense to have the the chair rail slant upwards by the stair and then go a bit higher on the riser. I opted to keep it simple since I thought visually it might look odd for the chair not to continue at the same height. Any thoughts on the issue?


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post #293 of 1592 Old 11-04-2008, 12:09 PM
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Keep it level. I think slanted would look odd.


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post #294 of 1592 Old 11-04-2008, 06:12 PM
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UPDATE:

I have seen where it was stepped up between columns to keep the bottom the same size. If you are going to wrap the columns that wouldn't really work.

I've also seen were they did a step up directly above the edge of the riser. That really emphasizes the different levels.
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post #295 of 1592 Old 11-06-2008, 07:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes, I will be wrapping the columns with the GOM and chair, base and crown. As I stood in the HT, I remained convinced that level would be better. Looking at the side wall and seeing two different heights for the chair rail on the column would just look funny.


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post #296 of 1592 Old 11-06-2008, 07:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Days 46 and 47: Base trim put in closets, quarter molding and base trim painted, playroom window framed, and furring strips finally put up in the HT (with the exception of the chair rail area). Seems like there might be too much space alloted in-between the columns and the adjacent furring strips (even after accounting for two layers of GOM) but I suppose HT guy can re-align once onsite. Leonardo sconces finally arrived. Didn't realize how big they were but they look quite nice. Worried about the riser height. According to the calculator, I would need about 11 3/8". Right now I've got about 10" not including the pad and carpet. GC can easily put another layer of mdf but what concerns me is how much it is narrowing the gap with my short ceiling. I know, I know, get those chairs down there and do some visual testing. Want to wait until they're pretty much done with the painting.

Front Wall


Left Wall


Right Wall


Back Wall


Base Trim and Quarter Molding Painted


Playroom Window Trim-Awfully Close to My Crown


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post #297 of 1592 Old 11-06-2008, 08:35 PM
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I'm still convinced that the front will look even better with the prosceniums pushed back some. But you will be able to do that as you work with your theater guy.

Are you going to able to watch the Macy's Thanksgiving day parade with your kids? Or is it more like a New Years Eve event, followed thereafter by a Superbowl party?


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post #298 of 1592 Old 11-07-2008, 04:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I'm still convinced that the front will look even better with the prosceniums pushed back some. But you will be able to do that as you work with your theater guy.

Are you going to able to watch the Macy's Thanksgiving day parade with your kids? Or is it more like a New Years Eve event, followed thereafter by a Superbowl party?

Fantastic build!

I agree with BIG about pushing the prosceniums back a bit.


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post #299 of 1592 Old 11-09-2008, 06:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post


Are you going to able to watch the Macy's Thanksgiving day parade with your kids? Or is it more like a New Years Eve event, followed thereafter by a Superbowl party?

Unfortunately, due to the expected release date (the 'actual' is still a mystery) of the RS20 there won't be any Turkey Day viewing. I was hoping that by Christmas I'd be enjoying the new HT but I read in another thread that the release might be pushed back to late Dec/early Jan from late Nov/early Dec so who knows at this point.

No new pictures to update. Spent the last few days preparing for my daughter's pirate birthday party (which was originally supposed to take place in the new basement space). Was entirely exhausted the day of since I didn't take any days off of work to get the house clean or prepare for the festivities. But so worth it as all the kids had a great time and when I asked my daughter what her favorite part of the party was she responded, "Definitely the treasure hunt!" So if anyone needs to know how to make a weathered treasure map feel free to PM me.

Likely no progress this week as my GC's mom just passed away. My uncle passed away too. My sister mentioned to me that death travels in threes (which I'd never heard of) but I'm not superstitious. But I do pray that the week gets better for everyone.


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post #300 of 1592 Old 11-09-2008, 06:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I'm still convinced that the front will look even better with the prosceniums pushed back some. But you will be able to do that as you work with your theater guy.



BIG and Jamis: Yes, we'll try and get those back as far as possible while still allowing access to the speakers behind the proscenium. As we already discussed, will also likely have to shave at least an inch off of the proscenium in order to maintain the sight line for the outer seats. Once I get a couple chairs down there I'll be able to perform some live testing.


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