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post #541 of 1592 Old 02-10-2009, 08:19 PM - Thread Starter
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I will be taking my columns down in order to stuff them with insulation. While I know what insulation looks like I am not familiar with how they sell it. These are the dimensions that I need to fill (I've already discounted the speaker areas):

Empty Columns (2x) 86"Lx20"W
Side Columns (2x) 43"Lx20"W
Rear Columns (2x) 55"Lx20"W

Do they sell it by the piece, by the roll, etc? Any estimates on what this will cost me, assuming I go with the cheapest insulation around? Thanks!
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post #542 of 1592 Old 02-10-2009, 08:34 PM
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Are you doing it so they don't vibrate or whatever from the speakers? If so I would do something dense like a mineral fiber. I used JM 4" 2x4 sheets of it for some panels and was thinking of doing some columns, but changed my mind on them. But anyway, the stuff is really great and super dense. Also - whatever Big says, do it his way instead, he knows more than all

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post #543 of 1592 Old 02-10-2009, 08:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

Are you doing it so they don't vibrate or whatever from the speakers? If so I would do something dense like a mineral fiber. I used JM 4" 2x4 sheets of it for some panels and was thinking of doing some columns, but changed my mind on them. But anyway, the stuff is really great and super dense. Also - whatever Big says, do it his way instead, he knows more than all

Yes, to minimize reverberations from the speakers housed in the columns. I figured if I was going to do four I might as well do all six then. Most everyone has recommended the pink fluffy stuff but I will also check out the JM mineral fiber. What do the sheets run?
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post #544 of 1592 Old 02-10-2009, 08:43 PM
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The pink stuff will be cheaper!! I don't know how good it is compared to the mineral fiber, but for the purpose of reverb in the columns, maybe it won't matter? Anyway they're like $30 for 4 sheets. Personally I would use something dense, but I'm a newbie at this stuff so take what I say with that in mind I did however do a little "test" with one of my speaker stands just for fun over the weekend. I packed it in with the pink fluffy stuff and then "knocked" on it and it sounded kind of hollow. I then did the same thing with the mineral fiber and it sounded almost like it was filled with sand.

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post #545 of 1592 Old 02-10-2009, 09:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

The pink stuff will be cheaper!! I don't know how good it is compared to the mineral fiber, but for the purpose of reverb in the columns, maybe it won't matter? Anyway they're like $30 for 4 sheets. Personally I would use something dense, but I'm a newbie at this stuff so take what I say with that in mind I did however do a little "test" with one of my speaker stands just for fun over the weekend. I packed it in with the pink fluffy stuff and then "knocked" on it and it sounded kind of hollow. I then did the same thing with the mineral fiber and it sounded almost like it was filled with sand.

I will send a quick PM to an acoustical expert and report back.
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post #546 of 1592 Old 02-10-2009, 09:04 PM - Thread Starter
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The playroom has been neglected for far too long. Plus, I can't even remember the last time I posted a pic of it. LCD is mounted. Cabinets are in. I'm not sure of what their exact height is so don't take my sketching to scale. There will be fluted trim and crown. My question for all you design engineers is what to do with the space underneath the LCD - just put a long shelf at the height of the cabinets? It's the perfect spot for a fireplace but that's not happening. Any other ideas?

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post #547 of 1592 Old 02-11-2009, 06:59 AM - Thread Starter
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I will send a quick PM to an acoustical expert and report back.

Expert says there are no acoustical differences between the two so go with the cheap stuff .
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post #548 of 1592 Old 02-11-2009, 07:14 AM
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If your local store stocks any of the Owens Corning acoustical batt product use the size closest to what you need. It can be pieced together or cut to fit but get the thickness for the depth of your columns. you can double them up if necessary.

http://www.owenscorning.com/around/s...s/ACOUSTIC.PDF

If they don't have that particular product use whatever they have just get the right size. It comes in either rolls or sheets cut to typical 8 ft ceiling heights.

You don't need the faced batts (paper) but if that is all they have it won't hurt.
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post #549 of 1592 Old 02-11-2009, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by queendvd2 View Post

Expert says there are no acoustical differences between the two so go with the cheap stuff .

Good to hear! I'm assuming he means for the intended purpose, not the products in general?

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post #550 of 1592 Old 02-11-2009, 08:42 AM
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Queen, I just had chance to skim thru some of your thread. I know I looked at it early on, but it's definately come a long way, your room has turned out great I love how it looks. Your husband and you must be very pleased (lucky guy)

Your guy thought you might want to go back to 16:9??? Did he not see how beatiful that scope screen is, maybe you didn't let him see the projector in action cause then all work would come to a halt Anyhow congrats!!
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post #551 of 1592 Old 02-11-2009, 01:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

Queen, I just had chance to skim thru some of your thread. I know I looked at it early on, but it's definately come a long way, your room has turned out great I love how it looks. Your husband and you must be very pleased (lucky guy)

Your guy thought you might want to go back to 16:9??? Did he not see how beatiful that scope screen is, maybe you didn't let him see the projector in action cause then all work would come to a halt Anyhow congrats!!

Hey oman, thanks for the kind comments. You're welcome to stop by my house anytime to remind my husband just how lucky he is ! Yes, I don't think I've read a single thread where someone went from 2:35 back to 16:9. I just hope that layer of GOM is not hindering the speaker performance.
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post #552 of 1592 Old 02-11-2009, 01:56 PM - Thread Starter
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This trim thing is not working out so well. The painter stopped by and dropped off a few samples he tried with the minwax gel stain. He was not too happy with the results nor was I. It basically looks like solid paint. He's even reluctant to do the doors, even though he admitted they'd likely come out better than the trim samples since they have grain. Plus, the estimate was MUCH higher than I had expected...a few hundred dollars to do three HALF doors, so essentially a door and one-half. At that rate, I could get a real wood door. So now I'm back to square one. I need to go to the paint store and look at paint cards again. Maybe I'll try something that will match the walls, but my main concern there is it will blur too much. GC's helper was supposed to show up today but MIA. Gee, my progress has come to a screeching halt of late. Though my replacement shower door was delivered today. Talk about a guy not happy to be coming back to my house. Hey, it wasn't me who chipped it buddy!

The small square on the bottom is the color sample from my bathroom vanity. And it actually photographs much better than it looks in person. It looks terrible.


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post #553 of 1592 Old 02-11-2009, 05:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Any opinions on if I use the same starry night blue that I used on the ceiling except not use a flat, but an eggshell or satin finish?
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post #554 of 1592 Old 02-11-2009, 06:05 PM
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Actually I think you just need another painter. One that knows Faux finishing techniques.

From what I can see he just slapped on one thick coat of the gel stain. He didn't even try to put on an undertone appropriate for finish you were going for.

You might want to look in your local Yellow pages for a faux finish person.
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post #555 of 1592 Old 02-11-2009, 07:08 PM
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Is using real wood and then staining that for the trim an option? I think it's more expensive though. That would obviously give a great wood look. I agree about the faux finishing. My painter from our house matched the paint/glaze/texture of our kitchen cabinets exactly just from scratch. I'd ask for a better painter or wood. Be happy your doors are ready though, mine (for the rest of basement) are going to take almost 12 weeks from the order date. Crazy!!

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post #556 of 1592 Old 02-11-2009, 09:00 PM
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Hey, it's me again.

First, let me ask, what woods will be used for the cabinetry, trim, moldings, etc.? Why do I ask? Different woods take stains differently. Try and keep it ALL the same if at all possible.

Not to be mean, but the stain samples are awful imho. Your painter just slapped on a stain and didn't brush or rag wipe off the excess making it look like just paint. I think you should seek out a better painter.

I prefer oil-based stains over gel and water stains. Here are the processes for staining wood. Wipe clean of dust, use a wood conditioner if mixing woods paying attention to what conditioners are to be used for each type of wood (this helps the stain match), stain and wipe off excess to get the desired color, seal it, sand it, wipe clean, then re-seal it again.

Hope that helps.

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post #557 of 1592 Old 02-12-2009, 04:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by queendvd2 View Post

I just hope that layer of GOM is not hindering the speaker performance.

You shouldn't have any issues. I've seen different AT materials used behind AT screens to help with light reflections off the back wall. GOM seems to be one of the better AT options as well as looking at how it's placed on your false wall it really seems fine.
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post #558 of 1592 Old 02-12-2009, 05:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ttowntony View Post

Hey, it's me again.

First, let me ask, what woods will be used for the cabinetry, trim, moldings, etc.?

No, no woods. Just basic trim (think it's mdf) and non-wood doors. Thought about real wood but then my options for the crown, base and chair become more limited. Plus, the base trim is already sitting in my house from when he did outside the HT. And my doors are already up.

Took everyone's advice and looked up a few faux painters. Left a few messages but the one where I did get a quote was way out of my budget. I estimated about 60 linear s.f. for the perimeter of the room (not including front of course) for base, chair and crown and added in two half-doors. I got quoted $1,800 !! And here I thought the first painter (who couldn't do faux painting) was expensive at $100 each half door. This just isn't going to happen at these prices.

So, back to my original question, will it look really bad for me to use the blue starry night that I used on the ceiling except perhaps go with an eggshell finish? Unless some miracle quotes come back I'm going to have to go down the paint route. Plus, this was already included in my GC's estimate so it does not cost me any extra $.
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post #559 of 1592 Old 02-12-2009, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by queendvd2 View Post

So, back to my original question, will it look really bad for me to use the blue starry night that I used on the ceiling except perhaps go with an eggshell finish?


I don't think starry blue is going to work. Let me work on this a little. My initial thought is to go with an antique gold to pick up the highlights in the carpet but that won't work with the sconces.
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post #560 of 1592 Old 02-12-2009, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by queendvd2 View Post

So, back to my original question, will it look really bad for me to use the blue starry night that I used on the ceiling except perhaps go with an eggshell finish? Unless some miracle quotes come back I'm going to have to go down the paint route. Plus, this was already included in my GC's estimate so it does not cost me any extra $.

If it were my room I would match the gold in the carpet like Big suggested or black But the gold would pop. Then again maybe you shouldn't listen to me, my wife tells me I have no sense of style

Quote:
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Took everyone's advice and looked up a few faux painters. Left a few messages but the one where I did get a quote was way out of my budget. I estimated about 60 linear s.f. for the perimeter of the room (not including front of course) for base, chair and crown and added in two half-doors. I got quoted $1,800 !! And here I thought the first painter (who couldn't do faux painting) was expensive at $100 each half door. This just isn't going to happen at these prices.

That sounds high. We had faux finishing in our old house and $1800 is the same price we paid for our entire great room walls and trim.

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post #561 of 1592 Old 02-12-2009, 07:02 PM - Thread Starter
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That sounds high. We had faux finishing in our old house and $1800 is the same price we paid for our entire great room walls and trim.

I thought so too. Heck, that's another sub and THEN SOME!
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post #562 of 1592 Old 02-12-2009, 07:03 PM
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that's another sub

Now you're talking

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post #563 of 1592 Old 02-12-2009, 07:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I don't think starry blue is going to work. Let me work on this a little. My initial thought is to go with an antique gold to pick up the highlights in the carpet but that won't work with the sconces.

I know, I'm not much on originality here. I'm guessing you might tell me to go with some kind of a gray (similar to yours) to complement the sconces and LG, but then there's that carpet issue. Maybe I'll post a separate thread like someone else did in the design forum to solicit color ideas.
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post #564 of 1592 Old 02-12-2009, 07:24 PM
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Did you ever carry those painted samples into the room and aside from the fact that they didn't look like your wood cabinets just evaluate the color for the room?
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post #565 of 1592 Old 02-12-2009, 07:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Who needs a new thread when BIG is around ! I like the maroon (probably cause I'm still pining for faux cherry) but I also like the starry blue. Anyone else care to chime in?
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post #566 of 1592 Old 02-12-2009, 07:32 PM
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No, no woods. Just basic trim (think it's mdf) and non-wood doors.

Ok, I now have a better understanding. Paint the doors and trim and use a glaze to get the desired affect. It's a very easy process, you just need someone who has experience doing it.

Here in Oklahoma, we typically charge $120-$150 per man per day with paint included. Your job could be done in a day + half....TOPS! You were quoted $1800....

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post #567 of 1592 Old 02-12-2009, 07:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Did you ever carry those painted samples into the room and aside from the fact that they didn't look like your wood cabinets just evaluate the color for the room?

BIG, you're a genius! They actually look great in the room. Granted now, I don't have any lights available in there to turn on right now since the incorrect Lutron switches were removed. So perhaps anything looks good in a darkened room. And I tried to snap some photos but my battery died . I will charge it up tonight and post some pics tomorrow after I get home from work.
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post #568 of 1592 Old 02-12-2009, 07:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ttowntony View Post

Here in Oklahoma, we typically charge $120-$150 per man per day with paint included. Your job could be done in a day + half....TOPS! You were quoted $1800....

Hmmm...wonder what the shipping costs would be there and back ?
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post #569 of 1592 Old 02-12-2009, 08:07 PM
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Offer him a Southwest air ticket and the per diem. Tickets to a Broadway show and a roast beef sandwich at the Stage Door Deli.
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post #570 of 1592 Old 02-13-2009, 04:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Offer him a Southwest air ticket and the per diem. Tickets to a Broadway show and a roast beef sandwich at the Stage Door Deli.

Alas, do you think the offer of a skateboard sans per diem, front row seats to the best 3-yr old boy/6-yr old girl song and dance show (THE longest running show in town), and a pbj sandwhich along with top shelf milk will do the trick?
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