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post #631 of 1592 Old 02-24-2009, 03:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamis View Post

Glad to see that some progress is being made (or will be soon)!

Did you just jinx me? GC's helper was a no-show on Monday .

GC stopped by early evening today to talk about the remaining items left. Here's my dilemma-what to do with those pesky rear corners. As you may recall, the fabric installation was less than ideal. The staples can be seen in those rear corners. Installer recommended wrapping a piece of quarter round or something to go in-between the base/chair/crown in order to hide the staples. GC pointed out that we'd have to go with a fairly thin piece in order to NOT overlap the top of the chair or the top of the base trim. Either way, it looks like a big goof cover-up. He floated another idea which I am seriously considering though it's a bit of a design departure. For those rear corners he suggested small MDF boxes, the same depth as the existing columns that house the speakers except much smaller (3 1/2"Lx3 1/2"Wx3 1/2"D). The weird thing is then for my trim I will have outside corners instead of inside corners. Do you think this is a good idea?

A bit of a crude rendering since it was tough to get the dimension of it.
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post #632 of 1592 Old 02-24-2009, 03:55 PM
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Make the corners into floor to ceiling 45 degree angle bass traps!

Staple problem resolved - bass quality improved

Sorry to hear he hasn't come, I cannot stand that stuff and I really hate when you have to call them and ask why they didn't come

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post #633 of 1592 Old 02-24-2009, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by queendvd2 View Post

The weird thing is then for my trim I will have outside corners instead of inside corners. Do you think this is a good idea?

Isn't your trim going to bump out and around at the other columns too?

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post #634 of 1592 Old 02-24-2009, 04:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

Isn't your trim going to jump out at the other columns anyway?

Yes, those will have outside corners as well, but typically the four corners of a room are inside corners for the trim work. I need to cut up some cardboard or something to help me visualize. It's killing me to have come this far and potentially have an area that looks "unfinished" or less than ideal.
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post #635 of 1592 Old 02-24-2009, 06:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I thought we trained you better:

$56. Range of motion 5 to 20 inches from the wall.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

This just isn't my week. GC confirmed that this mount can be centered where the LCD is. However, when I went to order it tonight I discovered it's on back-order until March 9 .
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post #636 of 1592 Old 02-25-2009, 07:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Spoke to a few members off-line and decided to try and scout out a piece of trim that will work in rear corners. That will be my homework assignment this weekend. I'll be pouring through the trim aisle at HD. Waiting on the painter now to come back with a sample and an estimate. Hopefully, he will stop by in the next couple days. GC pointed out that it's probably best not to cut the chair and crown since it would be easier to paint in whole pieces (he's out of luck with the base trim since that's already cut to size). If the sample and quote are not satisfactory then I'll also be heading out to the paint store this weekend to pick up the Old Master's graining base and wiping stain.
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post #637 of 1592 Old 02-25-2009, 08:10 PM
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I think Big mentioned it a while back, but if you go to a specialized trim place they will probably have tons more to choose from than HD. But you might find something at HD! What about some baby crown or baby base molding (except ran vertically up the corner)? Or even chair rair ran vertically?

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post #638 of 1592 Old 02-25-2009, 10:38 PM
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Your best bet is to look under lumber in the yellow pages and you can usually find a lumber yard that has a ton more options than HD. I don't know where you live and so this might not be an option but its worth a try.
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post #639 of 1592 Old 02-26-2009, 05:31 AM - Thread Starter
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This is what I will be looking for in the store. The top one called 'cavetto'. Hopefully, with that profile, it will still tuck under/even with the base/chair/crown. I will call around at lunchtime today and see if any of the yards nearby have it, as well as HD.

http://www.realtor.org/rmoarchitectu...tures/moldings
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post #640 of 1592 Old 02-26-2009, 06:01 AM
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you might also want to check out inside corner molding. I know that HD sells a small (1 inch wide) version of this in a couple of colors in plastic. You might be able to glue fabric to it. It is used quite often by people who put up that ugly prefinished faux wood paneling and need to cover the gaps at the inside corners. Larger wood version are available similar to the following but probably not at HD.



more pics:

http://www.doityourself.com/icat/insidecornermold
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post #641 of 1592 Old 02-26-2009, 09:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Just called the lumber yard where I purchased my crown from and they don't have what I need. I suspect I will have to scour the stores in person to see if the molding will meet my needs. But an idea just occurred to me that I wanted to float by everyone. What about using a piece of corner bead and just wrapping that for those inside corners? And if necessary (to hide bumps) just wrap in two layers of GOM. Is this a completely crazy idea?
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post #642 of 1592 Old 02-26-2009, 07:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey BIG, is it pure genius or just plain harebrained?
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post #643 of 1592 Old 02-26-2009, 08:06 PM
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I actually think it is a great idea but something to add is that there are a lot of corner beads including inside corners so you are not bound to the exact shape they used at your house. Corner bead comes in metal, plastic and paper with metal reinforcement. I think plastic would be my first choice.

OK, look at product 8158M on the top of page 19 here.

http://www.trim-tex.com/Trim-Tex_New...th%20cover.pdf

They may have used something similar around the perimeter of your suspended ceiling. The problem with corner bead is it has a raised bead on the corner which will keep it from sitting flush in the corner. The perimeter edge pieces for your ceiling may be the ticket. Just a basic L shape.
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post #644 of 1592 Old 02-27-2009, 07:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post


OK, look at product 8158M on the top of page 19 here.

Thanks BIG! I printed it out to bring with me tomorrow. On the painting issue, I've been thinking about what the GC said - in terms of it probably being easier for the painter to paint the trim in whole strips as opposed to cut pieces. I asked my potential painter (the train guy) which was easier and he said either way is fine. But the more I think about it, shouldn't it definitely be painted cut to size? This way, there is no chance that the white could be peeking through on the edges at all. Any advice from others who painted/stained their trim before installing?
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post #645 of 1592 Old 02-27-2009, 08:14 AM
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I'm not Big, but I would definitely paint them after they've been cut to size - especially those miter cuts.

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post #646 of 1592 Old 02-27-2009, 09:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

I'm not Big, but I would definitely paint them after they've been cut to size - especially those miter cuts.

Thanks for your input Shawn. Question wasn't necessarily directed at BIG, but anyone who's had experience with it. Followed up with the GC on it and now I understand why he wants it painted in slats. He said that he's going to have to recut them exact to size later on anyway so he was trying to avoid cutting twice. I'm not certain though on why they wouldn't be cut to exact size to begin with (except for around the stage and riser since those will be tricky spots). My end goal was trying to minimize the amount of touch-up AFTER they're installed and potential contact with my fabric walls.

Spoke with the painter today as well. Three samples are awaiting me on my doorstep-can't get home soon enough . But on the bright side, his quote was way more reasonable than those other robbers...ahem painters. He quoted me $350-$375 plus materials. So if one of the samples is to my liking then I'm in business! I will post pictures tonight of the three different ones that he did.

On a separate note, I had read in another thread about not plugging the amp into the power conditioner but rather directly into the outlet in order to achieve maximum performance. I checked my rack and my amp is indeed plugged into the conditioner. I have two separate dedicated 15 or 20 (can't recall) amp circuits in the equipment closet so I definitely can plug it in direct. Is one way preferred over the other?
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post #647 of 1592 Old 02-27-2009, 09:41 AM
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I think your GC means that to get the best possible fit for those miter cuts he has to nail one board up and then measure+cut based upon that board to make the cuts for the next board. I'm sure Big has more experience with trim work than I though.

Also, your painter is probably gonna want to putty the nail holes and possibly caulk the joints anyway, so touching up a few spots once their installed shouldn't be too hard.

Your painters price for faux finishing all the trim is very good!

Your amp - manufactures/experts say not to plug them into power conditioners because it limits the power during peaks and could cause interference. Try it in just the outlet and see if you notice any difference. I think in real world applications for normal HT use you wouldn't be able to tell much of a difference.

Actually, I just saw you have two dedicated circuits - is your power conditioner plugged into one of them and nothing is plugged into the other one?

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post #648 of 1592 Old 02-27-2009, 09:45 AM
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My preference is to paint molding in long strips sitting on saw horses rather than bending down and climbing on ladders and risk getting anything on that fabric. Painting a bunch of short pieces off wall is a hassle because you have to handle each piece. I also don't see how you can accurately fit each piece if you don't fasten the pieces to the wall as you go around the room.

When you cut it you will expose some white edges but when you fill the nail holes and paint to match you touch up any exposed edges at the same time as you go around the room. The painter needs to plan to come back after everything is installed for touch up anyway regardless of whether you are painting long pieces or cut pieces. He may not have included that in the quote but it should only take a couple of hours.

Summary, finish the long pieces off wall, cut and install, touch up nail heads and exposed edges, enjoy theater.
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post #649 of 1592 Old 02-27-2009, 05:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Painting Samples Please...#1 (left), #2 (middle), #3 (right)





#1











#2









#3









Which is it gentleman? #1, #2 or #3?

My vote goes to #1, as you could tell since it's the only one I took into the bathroom.
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post #650 of 1592 Old 02-27-2009, 07:20 PM
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#1, but I would tell him to ease up on the graining a bit. too much distracting contrast but good color.
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post #651 of 1592 Old 02-27-2009, 08:51 PM
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I agree with BIG, sample #1 looks the better of the three samples available.

Cheers
Lee
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post #652 of 1592 Old 02-27-2009, 09:13 PM
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I like #1 best as well - and then #2 second.

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post #653 of 1592 Old 02-28-2009, 07:42 AM
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My vote:

1st choice is #1, closely followed by #2
(#3 no way)

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post #654 of 1592 Old 02-28-2009, 08:19 AM
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Queen - you might have already mentioned it on here already but I didn't see it. What anamorphic lens did you get? And do you have to get a mount (sled or whatever it's called) for it too, or does it come with one? And do you you use any kind of masking system?

I'm going to use the 'zoom' for a while and see how well it works, but I'd like to look into the lens too

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post #655 of 1592 Old 02-28-2009, 04:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

Queen - you might have already mentioned it on here already but I didn't see it. What anamorphic lens did you get? And do you have to get a mount (sled or whatever it's called) for it too, or does it come with one? And do you you use any kind of masking system?

I'm going to use the 'zoom' for a while and see how well it works, but I'd like to look into the lens too

Panamorph A480kit, which included lens, mount and slide. I didn't get the masking system. Upgrading to 2:35 and the anamorphic lens just about killed the budget. Though I'm not certain that even down the road I'd upgrade to a masking system since I'm not bothered at all by the black bars on the side. Although, admittedly, we watch mostly movies which are very rarely 16:9. One thing that was strange. Last night, we watched "No Country For Old Men". On the packaging, it listed 2:35 but yet the image spilled onto the frame on the sides ? While the movie was very well done, another that goes into the not really HT worthy pile.
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post #656 of 1592 Old 02-28-2009, 04:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks to everyone for their vote. #1 it is! Spoke with the painter. He will start the job on Wednesday and hopefully be finished by the weekend. GC dropped off the chair rail, crown and fluted door trim so we're all set. And I numbered all of the cut base trim.

Scoured HD and found and L inside corner bracket but it was aluminum. Had resigned myself to the fact that I'd have to go that route but then saw my painter there and asked him about it. He found a plastic one, which not only has adhesive (probably still best to spray glue for a snug fit) strips but was also considerably cheaper. Not sure what the best method is for adhering the wrapped strip to the wall. Since it's so thin, I'm inclined to run it the entire length of the corner so that the base, chair and crown will help keep it in place.



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post #657 of 1592 Old 02-28-2009, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by queendvd2 View Post

Panamorph A480kit, which included lens, mount and slide.

I just checked their website - is that like $6k?

Man, these things add up $$ quick!

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Originally Posted by queendvd2 View Post

Though I'm not certain that even down the road I'd upgrade to a masking system since I'm not bothered at all by the black bars on the side. Although, admittedly, we watch mostly movies which are very rarely 16:9. One thing that was strange. Last night, we watched "No Country For Old Men". On the packaging, it listed 2:35 but yet the image spilled onto the frame on the sides ? While the movie was very well done, another that goes into the not really HT worthy pile.

Thanks, that helps. If I got anything it would probably just be the lens and not worry about the masking. I do watch some 16:9 shows, but I don't think the bars on the sides will bother me, but I'll guess I'll find out soon

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post #658 of 1592 Old 02-28-2009, 04:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

I just checked their website - is that like $6k?

Was a little bit cheaper but IMO worth every penny because I would have been very unhappy with the smaller image and the black bars on the top and bottom.
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post #659 of 1592 Old 02-28-2009, 04:54 PM
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Ok thanks. I think I'm gonna give the zoom method a shot when I have it all set up and decide from there if I should pony up the $$.

One more question - do you leave the lens on all the time, or just use it for scope movies?

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post #660 of 1592 Old 02-28-2009, 05:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

Ok thanks. I think I'm gonna give the zoom method a shot when I have it all set up and decide from there if I should pony up the $$.

One more question - do you leave the lens on all the time, or just use it for scope movies?

With the sliding mechanism it simply slides in place for scope movies and then slides to the left if it's 16:9. My installer programmed my remote with an 'aspect ratio' button so that when I choose a specific size then the lens shifts accordingly. Snapped a quick photo so you could see it up close. Right now the lens is in place for 2:35.

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