Wow. I just got through reading the WHOLE thread and I am tired.
And since I don't have an OPPO, I guess I am missing out on some terminology.
I have a PS3, Panasonic BD-605 (Sam's/Costco version of the 60), and a Panasonic Plasma 42pzou.
And after reading the whole thread PLUS the articles on the website AND listening to the podcast, I still don't have a clue how to send 4444 and 4424 and 4222 on these. I have an older OPPO DVD player that does however have these settings but that doesn't really help.
Are there terminology equivalents for some other common devices? My best guesses:
PS3: RGB = 4444?
YPBPR = 4222?
Panasonic Blu Ray player: RGB (only choice) = 4444?
Panasonic Plasma: no color space settings
And I would like to thank Kris Deering and TJ Norton (Kris wrote, TJ comented) from Hometheatermag for their great article
last year on this disc. I have an older Olevia lcd where everything set perfectly with all the bars showing on the contrast pattern and still plenty of brightness to watch the TV by.
However, with all bars showing on the Panny Plasma the picture was so dim
even my wife said "The picture looks great but everything looks like it's in the shade."
I thought I did something wrong and wondered if it was even worth it to have it "accurate" if I could not enjoy it being this dark. And then my ears perked up when I read this:
To set your contrast properly, you should retain all of the head room in the Contrast test pattern, meaning you should see the stripes all the way up to digital 253. But I realize that some people season to taste. We don't recommend that you set your display's contrast any higher than clipping at digital 240. You should also keep an eye on banding when you set the contrast. You can't get the full picture by simply looking at the clip points. To make sure there's no banding in the gray scale, look at some clips above and below the clip point you choose. A lower clip point (say, 240) provides a bit more contrast and light output at the expense of overall accuracy. [In theory, there should be no information above a digital value of 235 in your program material, so clipping slightly above that figure should have no negative consequences. In practice, some programs do have information above that level. Nevertheless, count me among those who often find it too conservative to extend the clipping level to above 240, particularly with projectors that need extra brightness.TJN]
This did it for me!!! Bar 242 seems to be the magic number.
And I now can see so much more detail. I had thought previously that you were supposed to get contrast as high as possible without clipping 235. I have since found out with this disc that my TV will not clip 235 until a 90 something out of 100. That means my TV has been guzzling power this whole past year with an 85 contrast setting instead of the "more correct" (not completely but I can deal with it) 49 setting. Spears and Munsil has lowered my power bill also!!!
I bought this disc last year originally after reading that article and ran through the patterns and test clips without really knowing what I was doing.
I just realized recently that you could push the directional button UP to get a description of the patterns. Shows how well I read instructions.
And since I thought everything was already set correctly with the AVSHD dvd (which I still find a bit easier to use their blinking tint and color pattern for colors although I'm not sure it is as accurate as SpearsMunsil but still looks great), the disc has just been sitting there on my shelf with DVE since then.
My interest came back after reading article after article in Hometheater Mag and Widescreen Review as it being the definitive "Torture disc/ Testing disc" for new players/TVs/etc and how they stand up to it, so I pulled it back out and now I am glad I did.
But I am still confused on some of the color space stuff.
The Panasonic Blu ray player passed most of the tests to the plasma.
The PS3 seemed to pass more tests with RGB than with YPbPr, although they both looked about the same when watching a movie.
However, PS3 RGB will not show WTW and BTB in any way that I know of other than the NOT recommended "full" setting.
So I am using the Panny player instead of PS3 since the TV seems to like to be fed RGB better. But I may be completely wrong and backwards on all of this. Either way I am very happy with the overall picture.
Earlier I was reading about a guy having trouble when reading this disc in a PS3 and I thought "poor guy. that must really suck."
Now I am having the same type issue. Any one figured out how to get around that one?
It was playing fine the first few times I used it although it did seem to hang up on some patterns, but now it ALWAYS freezes up on the contrast pattern and wont even show the sharpness pattern. Sometimes now it is freezing on the menu and I can select a pattern towards the end of the list and hit the back directional button until I get to the patterns I need. But once I get to the contrast, the only way out is the back button (red circle?) then choose yes to "are you sure you wanna stop playing disc." And then occasionally I have to eject and then re-insert the disc to play it. Kind of weird.
Plays just fine in the Panasonic although now it makes a noise on some of those same patterns. My wife asked it it was a "rattle check"
But once again I don't even know how to turn off the PIP comments boxes that pop up in the movie "Sunshine" since they seem to come on automatically on the PS3 with this movie and not the Panasonic.
If it is just my disc I will just order another one. Just wondering if it was something I was doing to save the trouble.
Once again, this disc is great and I think every one should own one. Especially all the people who have asked me over to set up their TVs and then accidentally hit "default settings" and asked me to come back!
At least I know the best way to set their contrast now.
I look forward to anything by these two in the future.