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post #91 of 274 Old 09-12-2008, 04:00 PM
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Mike,
your setup had no boundary loading, like zero. Although it looks really cool, it's like a big do not do this poster. I love the top picture the cameras distortion making it look ~1' deeper at the top.

All of his drivers will be basically on a wall or floor, it should kick a$$.

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Dan
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post #92 of 274 Old 09-12-2008, 04:14 PM
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Ahh. okay Dan. Good to hear. Good luck to the op.
Btw. They were 37" deep at the top and 27" at the bottom. They were also 80" high and 500lbs loaded. lol nut busters.

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My speaker build. "PROJECT OVERKILL" WWMTMSS
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post #93 of 274 Old 09-12-2008, 04:42 PM
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Mike,
dang that box was huge, 37"+ whatever the gap is to the back wall= way out into the room. What a behemoth, did you ever have pictures of cabs that were not "leaning" for an avatar?

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Dan
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post #94 of 274 Old 09-12-2008, 04:47 PM
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lol.
They took me over a year to build. 2" thick front mdf baffle, 1" mdf everywhere else. Lots of bracing. 3/8" thick felt lines the walls inside. miles of wires, and a lot of crushed fingers. lol

Here is a link to my photobucket account if you want to see some more pics. All my build pics from start to finish are there.

http://s111.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/pe%20damage/

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My speaker build. "PROJECT OVERKILL" WWMTMSS
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post #95 of 274 Old 09-12-2008, 05:46 PM
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This is the one, I always thought they stood straight

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Dan
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post #96 of 274 Old 09-12-2008, 08:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingpin111 View Post

Ahh. okay Dan. Good to hear. Good luck to the op.
Btw. They were 37" deep at the top and 27" at the bottom. They were also 80" high and 500lbs loaded. lol nut busters.



I did see your build on another forum.

I'm actually building 4 seperate boxes. Each will be 60" x 18" and 13" deep.

So if by some chance those vertical ones don't work out for whatever reason, I can lay them flat just like the other 2.

Each box of 3 subs will be wired at 4 Ohms. The Behringer EP2500 will be run in stereo. That way I can run only the bottom 6 speakers for music, but have the option of running all 12 for movies.



Honestly, I could get away with just 6 of these things in this room. And I'm not sure I'll even be able to test the full power with all running at the same time up around max. I have a 100+ year old home and I'm sure the old plaster walls upstairs wouldn't hold up too well. But maybe I'll give it a try once they get broken in. I made up double layered walls, and put some accoustic protection in the ceiling......but bass still gets to the 2nd and 3rd floor with two 13 yr old 15" sonosubs.



I ripped down 6 sheets of MDF today length wise. Tomorrow I will finish cut all the individual pieces.





Quick Question:
For ease, which piece should be put on the box last? The back I suppose?
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post #97 of 274 Old 09-13-2008, 03:16 PM - Thread Starter
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I have a quick question:

Should I divide each sub into seperate chambers within the larger box? I already have the braces cut, but I haven't removed the middle portion of them yet. So I could just use them to divide all the subs up.


Any ideas?


I don't mind the extra speaker wire posts per sub.


Another reason: These subs have those male/female push on type fasteners anyway, so it won't be so easy attaching 2 wires per terminal. And because I'm wiring in parallel, I thought it might be easier to just wire each speaker to outside posts that will easily accept 2 wires per + and -.



I'm coming along pretty good on them so far.
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post #98 of 274 Old 09-19-2008, 04:42 PM
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How's the build coming?
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post #99 of 274 Old 09-19-2008, 07:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for asking.

We had a very very large windstorm here in Cincinnati that knocked out power to almost 90% of the city this past week. I was also helping with the cleanup of all the downed trees as well. Things are finally slowing down now.


I have the boxes built without the fronts. I've got the braces inside two of them and will easily get the other 2 done tomorrow and will likely cut the fronts as well. I was hoping to find some decent binding posts locally that would accept 3 wires coming into the back of each one, but I haven't been lucky on that. So I will need to order them from Parts Express.




Anyone have any recommendations on what to cover them with? Being right up front and directly next to the screen, I'm not sure paint is a good idea. I thought maybe I could use some type of fabric, but I haven't seen anyone do that. Carpet would be my last resort I guess.
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post #100 of 274 Old 09-20-2008, 08:40 AM
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Why not laminate? You can get a matte or high gloss finish depending on the direction you want to go...matte would be my choice, and it's easily applied. There's no finishing work to do once the material is glued in place.
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post #101 of 274 Old 09-20-2008, 10:31 AM - Thread Starter
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I did consider using the laminate but I was worried it would still reflect a bit too much light being right along the side of the projector screen. Even with the matte finish.

The laminate would sure speed things up though.
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post #102 of 274 Old 09-20-2008, 12:05 PM
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Search around for the various finishes by the different manufacturers. There's quite a few, with Nevamar, Wilsonart, Formica, Laminart, and others. I think you could find a dead flat finish in almost any color you would like. There's also true veneer laminates, and ones with color through the backing to prevent the black edge showing (Formica calls it ColorCore).
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post #103 of 274 Old 09-20-2008, 02:04 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm going to head over to the local hardware "super" store and see what they have. I'll pin it up on the wall and find out just how noticable it actually is. I haven't used laminate for speaker boxes, but I have used it a few times and it's fairly easy. I think you can buy bits for the router that will grind down the edges pretty darn smooth.


I'm going to also stop in at the fabric store to check that out too. Uhg, I hate going to the fabric store! I feel better if I grab their John Deere tractor flannel material and carry it around while looking at other stuff!!!
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post #104 of 274 Old 09-20-2008, 03:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Okay, so here are some photos of my progress. After getting everything cut, and the first box done, I realized that I could have done the bracing a little different and likely better. But for what it's worth, those small pieces are glued/nailed to the sidewalls and also to the main braces. So it shouldn't be that bad I guess. Hopefully it will be okay, because they aren't coming off now! I will be doing more bracing for the front as well of course.


All 4 boxes:





A bit of a close up on the bracing:






Do you think I will have any issues with that bracing? These things won't be turned up to their max anyway as they would likely take the plaster down upstairs in the process.
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post #105 of 274 Old 09-21-2008, 11:46 AM
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I don't think you have any problem with the bracing of the sidewalls by using those runners. It will do the same thing...stiffen the side to lower the resonances. You could easily add another through brace behind each driver if you think you's want to go through the exercise. You could also easily add some self stick asphaltic underlayment to the perimeter of the enclosure to dampen those pieces.

By the way, there are specific router bits for trimming laminate, and would be available at any home supply store.
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post #106 of 274 Old 09-21-2008, 03:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, I also cut similar pieces that are 2" wide that go directly next to each side of every subwoofer.


Today I cut all the darn holes.....all 12 of them! I bought a circle cutter for the plunge router from Sears (the only model they had). Then I saw that it only cuts 10"-50". I needed 9" of course.

But I was able to rig it up by drilling some of my own holes. It took 4 trial cuts to get it just right. But then it went okay.


One box is totally complete, minus whatever I cover it with and the speaker terminals. I have to order those tonight.



I didn't have a chance to get any laminate samples today. But I will tomorrow. I'm really hoping that I can use it next to the screen.





On a side note: I got really lucky last year. An elderly client that I do work for gave me his older professional plunge router with about 50 or more bits, many are brand new. It made my cheaper Ryobi seem like a toy. What a beast this thing is.
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post #107 of 274 Old 09-22-2008, 04:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Okay, I got lots done today! All four boxes are pretty much finished minus the binding posts (which should be here tomorrow) and of course, the final finish.


This is what the bracing looked like prior to the top being installed. Each top brace got glued to the front, clamped and nailed. I also caulked all main angles inside as well.





Here's a photo of the corners. Everything lined up real nice. I still have to do some final sanding to smooth things out a little better.





Here's what each box looks like:





And of course, here's what will be sitting along my front wall in a few days!! That one looks a little short, but it's not, it's just the floor. They're all the same.





I'm glad this project is moving along so well.
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post #108 of 274 Old 09-29-2008, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

I'm glad this project is moving along so well.

Erich,
don't jinx yourself of nothing

So how is it working out? REW?

Regards,
Dan
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post #109 of 274 Old 09-29-2008, 07:35 AM
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I think you made one extra step that is going to come back to bite you if you were going to use laminate...the roundovers! You shouldn't have used that, so I think you are now forced to go with a coating finish of some sort. For a flat finish, you could try the "truck bedliner" route, although that finishes in a pebbled grain.

The boxes look good!
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post #110 of 274 Old 09-29-2008, 08:02 AM
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You can always seal it up with some primer or polyurethane and use regular interior wall paint

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Dan
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post #111 of 274 Old 09-29-2008, 04:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Roundovers didn't worry me too much for laminate. I think if you get the thin stuff, you can wrap it around those some way. I believe my uncle knows how to do it and may still have the equipment. I have no idea how it's done myself, but I guess it's just like a rounded counter top? But then again, I didn't ask him for any help and figured he may loan the needed tools if I went that route. Maybe it's harder than I think, I've only done square and flat laminate work.....so I'm far from a pro.



Having said that, I got a few pieces of laminate, and each one shined a bit too much right next to the screen. Keep in mind, these boxes are literally lining the side of screen. None worked. Bummer.


Sooooo, here's what I have been waiting on (until today). I went to a fabric store and a nice old lady started to help me. I told her what I was doing and she recommended covering it with a black fleece material. No problem. But she didn't like the idea of gluing it on and seeing seams on the edges. So she said she could sew the side on to make sort of a "sock" to slide over them. I didn't want to put all the subs in the boxes only to take everything out once the covers were done. I was in waiting.


She made a couple short prototypes just to check if the square side would fit.



It looked really nice, so I said "go with it". She made one final production unit and I picked it up an hour ago. Started sliding it on and it looked excellent, really nice fit. BUT, it came up to 3" too short on the damn box! Fabric clearly said 60" wide and my boxes are 60" wide. And this stuff stretches a bit too. I don't know what the deal is.


So I have to call her later and give the news. It's a shame because I have the wiring done and the screw holes drilled. They are ready and waiting!



You guys were right, I did jinx myself!!!
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post #112 of 274 Old 09-30-2008, 09:10 AM
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Yes, the fabric may only be 60" wide, but you need to allow for seams and hems, and that's where the additional material probably went. However, all she needs to do is cut the fabric the opposite way, and run it longwise instead of across the fabric piece. That assumes it comes in a roll. Are you planning to leave the subs exposed or behind the "sock"?
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post #113 of 274 Old 09-30-2008, 11:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Oddly enough, she did cut the fabric in the other direction (lengthwise). The problem is that she figured leaving only 57" of material to stretch for the 60" box. But it wasn't enough. I'm not really sure what she was picturing in her head.

Had she just gone with the width, it would have been okay, even taking in account the seams because it is a little bit stretchy. At least I think so.


She did make me another one which I just picked up. She still cut it length wise, but made it plenty long enoughthis time. So she will make the final ones tonight or tomorrow. What sucks is that I still can't use this one! I had to buy another bolt of fabric to assure the color matches on all 4 boxes. She will make 3, and see if this finished one matches it.

Luckily, this will be done by this weekend. I know I should not say such things, but I'm pretty confident.





I was planning on having the subs exposed as they are solid black and so is the fleece. I think it will look pretty nice that way. If I eventually make any type of grill, it should be really easy to attach it just by using some good velcro.
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post #114 of 274 Old 09-30-2008, 12:28 PM
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I'm looking forward to seeing how these look in the end. Because I have no way of painting cabinets, I've thought about sealing them and trying a similar approach with some shear fabric.
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post #115 of 274 Old 09-30-2008, 04:23 PM - Thread Starter
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I figure I might as well ask about adding poly fill to the boxes.


Does anyone recommend it for these? If so, any guess at how much?
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post #116 of 274 Old 09-30-2008, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

I figure I might as well ask about adding poly fill to the boxes.


Does anyone recommend it for these? If so, any guess at how much?

I think some form of fill is kind of a universal recommendation for any build. I've read that quite a few people are saving some $ and using fiberglass insulation or pillow stuffing instead.

I didn't use any fill but I plan to "Some day"... same with adding some wooden dowels as bracing...
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post #117 of 274 Old 09-30-2008, 07:14 PM
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Hit up WalMart for the $2.50 fluffy pillows, they work

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post #118 of 274 Old 09-30-2008, 07:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Okay, I'll stuff some in each one. So should I just open maybe 1.5 pillows, fluff the stuff up and spread it around? Or should I use even more than that?
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post #119 of 274 Old 09-30-2008, 11:46 PM
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I think the density of the stuffing in the pillows is very good, and having the ability to suspend the stuffing in the pillow will eliminate any settling, or intrusion into the baskets and motors is another big +. If your going to just open them up, buy a big bag of stuffing and go that route. Your boxes don't need stuffing, just a little dampening would be nice. 4-6 per box would be more than sufficient.

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post #120 of 274 Old 10-01-2008, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEO Dan View Post

...4-6 per box would be more than sufficient.

I think you mean for Erich to use 4 to 6 pillows in each box, leaving them as they are and not opening the covers. Correct? The old "standard" was 1/2 to 1 pounds of polyfill per cubic foot, but your pillow technique does make a lot of sense for the reasons you stated above.
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