Shiva X-12” Subwoofer & 4.3 cubic feet tuned to 19hz ported Build - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 60 Old 02-21-2009, 01:39 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
usil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 133
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
So far, I have built my family room front mains (Ego) and center speakers (Zaph) based on proven DIY designs and am very happy with the results. I am now ready to turn to my sub-woofer.

Initially confused on which way I should go based on all the reading and reviews from the forums, and comparing DIY with commercial products I was honing in on the SVS - PB12+ as capturing what I wanted out of a sub. The price was, however, about 400 more than I wanted to spend. I almost broke down and bought the SVS SB-12+ as the price range was right and it had most of what I wanted. However, the SVS PB12+ had great reviews and I really wanted the extra punch at the lower frequency ranges since I will be using this with a lot of movies.

One thing I noticed in several reviews of the PB12+ was a comparison to what they were calling their reference which was a Shiva 12 DIY sub. While the PB 12+ produced a respectable showing, the Shiva was the ultimate winner. So, I thought, why not just DIY using a Shiva and get the price I can afford and the low end response I will enjoy when watching movies. The above was my thought process and I would appreciate it is anyone can tell me if my logic has any fault.

I have a family room of 2400 cubic feet. I have read the Shiva_app.pdf file and believe that based on size and performance, I will build the 4.3 cubic feet tuned 19hz ported box. I have ordered the Shiva driver and the 500W O-Audio Plate Amp.

All I need now is the design of the box and unfortunately, while the Shiva app file mentions that I can find drawings for the Shiva driver in something called the Shiva Enclosure Documentation I can not find this anywhere on the Shiva web site. If anyone can point me to this documentation I would be grateful.

I will keep you posted as this project develops.

Usil
usil is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 60 Old 02-21-2009, 02:05 PM
Advanced Member
 
mlkmgr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Meskwaki Nation
Posts: 565
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
i am considering a very similar build using the shiva-x driver. was recommended in another thread as good starting point for a first time DIYer. i will be following this thread closely as i am still on the fence about the box design. some have said sealed, others ported, and finally a sonotube. not sure which way to go. keep posting on your results and build progress. i won't be starting my build until the weather outside can cooperate some more--about a month or 2 hopefully.
mlkmgr is offline  
post #3 of 60 Old 02-21-2009, 02:35 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
usil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 133
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
My box dimensions are still not set based on getting the Shiva Enclosure Documentation.

I want the smaller 4.3 cubic feet box with one 4" port but driving the Shiva with the 500 watt amp warns against possible chuffing. Going to the next size box of 6.35 cubic feet with 2 ports tuned to 18 hz is a bigger box than I want and for some reason the description says that the 500 amp is a 'poor' choice for this box.

So, I am looking for help from the experts here to tell me how I can make a 4.3 cubic feet box work using the 500 watt amp. Can I add 2 ports to the box and eliminate the possibility of chuffing.

My preferred box dimension is: 18" wide x 18" deep by 24" high. This produces 4.5 cubic feet which allowing for bracing and speaker displacement should be close to 4.3 cubic feet. I want the ports to be front firing along with the speaker. Can anyone run this through a program to see what length the 2-4" ports should be to be tuned at 19hz? Also providing box cut dimensions if possible would be good. I would use 1" MDF for everything.

Usil
usil is offline  
post #4 of 60 Old 02-21-2009, 03:02 PM
Senior Member
 
Uklit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sask. Canada
Posts: 436
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:


Can I add 2 ports to the box and eliminate the possibility of chuffing.

Yes.
Uklit is offline  
post #5 of 60 Old 02-21-2009, 04:11 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Stephen Hopkins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Douglasville, GA
Posts: 3,308
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Yes, but you need to play with some enclosure modeling software to understand how the number of ports, type, and length effect the tune of the enclosure. With 2 x 4" ports, they'll both need to be longer than a single 4" port to maintain the same tune. Another way to tune the enclosure without port noise would be to use an appropriately sized slot port... this could end up being cheaper as well, given the lower cost of materials, but will make your box a bit larger as the volume of the port is not included in the overall volume the driver sees.

Stephen Hopkins is offline  
post #6 of 60 Old 02-21-2009, 06:33 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
usil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 133
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
What modeling software can tell me the lengths of 2 ports if I feed it the box dimensions?

Also, I have seen people use elbows on port tubes to provide increased length inside small boxes. As long as the port tubes are the right length is it ok to have the tubes bent inside the box?

Usil
usil is offline  
post #7 of 60 Old 02-21-2009, 06:37 PM
 
mjg100's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 9,112
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Kevin Haskins sent me a design on the Shiva and 500 watt amp. I would use a different amp though. The Oaudio has a lot of boost down low and it is a better choice for a sealed application not ported. The design that Kevin sent me uses a 20" wide x 27" deep x 27" high. It used two full length 4" perfect ports. If you will pm me your email address I will forward it to you if you are interested. it looks like this:
[IMG][/IMG]
I use mine on it's side since I wanted it up front and it needed to fit under my screen.

Added:
I am powering mine with a Nady XA-1100. I bought it new and it cost less than the Oaudio amp. it will put out 425 watts 4 ohm per channel or 1100 watts bridged. Very happy with the sub and amp.
mjg100 is offline  
post #8 of 60 Old 02-21-2009, 07:29 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Stephen Hopkins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Douglasville, GA
Posts: 3,308
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
mjg100, what are you using for high-pass (rumble) filtering to protect the driver from unloading below its tuning point?

Stephen Hopkins is offline  
post #9 of 60 Old 02-21-2009, 08:24 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
usil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 133
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
MJG: Thanks for the picture. I calculated the cubic feet for this design to be 6.5 cubic feet. This is bigger than I want to make for my family room.

I just recalculated my desired box dimensions as I forgot to take into consideration the thickness of the MDF. So, for my 4.3 cubic ft box my new dimensions need to be 20" wide, 20" deep and 26 inches tall.

I have been looking at the port calculator programs on line and find that I would need an 18.9" 4" port tube for this volume. But one 4" port will cause chuffing and I need 2. One program I used allowed me to enter 2 ports. The length calculated was 40.7". Does this mean that each must be 20.35" long or they both have to be 40.7"long?

Usil
usil is offline  
post #10 of 60 Old 02-21-2009, 08:43 PM
AVS Special Member
 
michael hurd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: 49th parallel
Posts: 2,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 27
4.3 cu ft net would require two 4" ports almost 41 inches long to tune to 19 hz. The first port resonance would be ~ 165 hz.

In other words, it's not possible to put two 4" ports in that box. Go with a single at 19" long, or build the box a bit bigger. Don't forget to include the physical volume of the port with the net volume to get your gross construction volume.

For instance, if your port displaces 0.12 cu ft, you add that to the desired net volume to get the gross volume, the same with the driver.

"You take the blue pill - the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. You take the red pill - you stay in Wonderland and I show you how deep the rabbit-hole goes."
michael hurd is online now  
post #11 of 60 Old 02-21-2009, 08:55 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
usil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 133
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
The SVS PB-12 plus http://www.svsound.com/products-sub-box-newpb12plus.cfm uses a box that is 25" by 19" by 21" and this measures to be about 4.3 cubic ft. The box has 3 ports located on the long axis (25") so each port could not be longer than about 20" long. How can this be based on what you said about the length for 2 ports?

Usil
usil is offline  
post #12 of 60 Old 02-21-2009, 09:05 PM
AVS Special Member
 
michael hurd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: 49th parallel
Posts: 2,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 27
They are curved.

"You take the blue pill - the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. You take the red pill - you stay in Wonderland and I show you how deep the rabbit-hole goes."
michael hurd is online now  
post #13 of 60 Old 02-21-2009, 09:13 PM
AVS Special Member
 
michael hurd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: 49th parallel
Posts: 2,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 27
(3) 3" diameter ports would need to be 34 inches long to tune to 19 hz in 4.3 cu ft.

"You take the blue pill - the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. You take the red pill - you stay in Wonderland and I show you how deep the rabbit-hole goes."
michael hurd is online now  
post #14 of 60 Old 02-21-2009, 09:15 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
usil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 133
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Yes, but one 4" port will chuff for this Shiva design with 500W amp so a 3" would be out of the question. This is the entire reason I am looking at adding 2 4" ports so there is no chuffing at high volume air displacement.

Usil
usil is offline  
post #15 of 60 Old 02-21-2009, 09:52 PM
Advanced Member
 
pochoboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 795
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I was also eye'n the OAudio 500Bash as it has the Paramatic EQ controls. Now I'm hearing its not a good choice with a ported box design. how's about the OAudio 300Bash is it much better with less low frequency boost?
pochoboy is offline  
post #16 of 60 Old 02-21-2009, 10:03 PM
AVS Special Member
 
michael hurd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: 49th parallel
Posts: 2,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Check your local wholesaler for PVC conduit, specifically sweeping elbows.

You may be able to construct ports long enough, but still tough given the dimentions you posted.

Sweep elbows

"You take the blue pill - the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. You take the red pill - you stay in Wonderland and I show you how deep the rabbit-hole goes."
michael hurd is online now  
post #17 of 60 Old 02-21-2009, 10:05 PM
AVS Special Member
 
michael hurd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: 49th parallel
Posts: 2,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Check out the offerings, you *might* be able to pull it off.

http://www.pvc-conduitfittings.com/index.html

"You take the blue pill - the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. You take the red pill - you stay in Wonderland and I show you how deep the rabbit-hole goes."
michael hurd is online now  
post #18 of 60 Old 02-21-2009, 10:35 PM
AVS Special Member
 
michael hurd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: 49th parallel
Posts: 2,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 27
What about a single 5" sweeping elbow? It would need to be 29.7 inches long if you have both ends flanged.

See this:

"You take the blue pill - the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. You take the red pill - you stay in Wonderland and I show you how deep the rabbit-hole goes."
michael hurd is online now  
post #19 of 60 Old 02-22-2009, 01:03 AM
Member
 
soloxp's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 109
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
You will need something like this....
http://doitbest.com/PVC+elbows-Genov...sku-417408.dib

You be able to find them at LOW'S or Home Depot cheap.
soloxp is offline  
post #20 of 60 Old 02-22-2009, 05:51 AM
 
mjg100's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 9,112
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen Hopkins View Post

mjg100, what are you using for high-pass (rumble) filtering to protect the driver from unloading below its tuning point?

Nothing, but I am not pushing it hard. I have it in a small room. I have been looking for a good deal on something to use. I have been looking for:

Behringer MIC2200
Reckhorn B1

An FMOD would be the cheapest solution, but the lowest high pass FMOD available is 20Hz. Do you have any other suggestions for a cheap solution?
mjg100 is offline  
post #21 of 60 Old 02-22-2009, 07:11 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
usil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 133
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
PVC Ports: The elbows look like what I am going to have to do to. I believe I can design the two PVC loops with the ports opening to the bottom. I notice that in other box designs the port opening has been at the side, the front, the back and at the bottom so I guess that it does not really matter where the ports come out.

O-Bash 500W Amp: The Shiva-X 12 is rated at 600 Watts and I want to do this design coming close to the max because of the size of my room which is a little over 2400 cubic ft. I also noted the comment about the 500W Bash not being a good choice but it was only mentioned with the 6.5 cubic ft box. For the 4.3 cubic ft box it only indicated that chuffing would be an issue using a 500W amp and one 4" port. To handle the extra volume air displacement and chuffing issue I am going to use two 4" ports. I think these parameters will give me a dynamic package able to meet my needs for viewing movies.

I also know from my reading that multiple woofers, 15"s and 18"s are common in the DIY world and really add great output. These parameters produce large boxes and and extra cost which I choose not to pursue for my family room.

Based on the the Shiva SPl data chart for the 4.3 cubic ft box this should produce nearly 115 db at 30 and 40 htz, 112 db at 20 htz and still has plenty to give at 105db at 15 htz. The SPl shart shows that it is producing 90 db at 10 htz so I believe I will be very pleased with the results after it is finished.


The Bash Amp provides lots of controls to optimize the sub to the room.

My next stage is to draw up the plans for the box. I am not too good at this and will try using Google Sketch. I am going to have the main box built by a friend and will apply a rosewood veneer to the exterior with the bottom and back painted black. I am considering adding a stone top to it and may have it cut to fit the top. As I am traveling a lot in the next few weeks I will work on this in my spare time. I will get back when I have the plans completed.

Usil
usil is offline  
post #22 of 60 Old 02-22-2009, 08:46 AM
AVS Special Member
 
lennon_68's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: All alone in northern MN...
Posts: 1,946
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 20
I think you need to download some modeling software like Unibox to get a better understanding of the compromises you're considering. You can get Unibox at the link below, it requires Microsoft Excel running on a PC (I wish they'd get it working on Mac so I could model at home ):
http://audio.claub.net/software/kougaard/ubmodel.html

In order to get away with a ported box that small you're going to have to compromise on something, that's even mentioned in the documentation for the box you're considering (the port chuffing is the compromise they've accepted for that size box).

To get two ports in the box (as already mentioned) each one would have to be roughly twice the length of the single port to achieve the same tuning frequency. Because the port doesn't count as part of the box volume this makes the volume taken up by the port .58 cuft rather than the .15 cuft the suggested port takes up. So now the driver's only seeing a 3.72cuft box rather than the 4.15cuft (actually less as you'd have to calculate for the outer dimension of the port - this was calculated using the internal diameter to figure the volume displaced by the port). Now chuffing won't be an issue but you won't get as much boost at the tuning frequency and you may be better off just tuning higher or going sealed (I can't model at home so can't look at the data...).

Regarding the OAudio 500W amp the reason it was mentioned to not be suitable for a ported design is that it has boost built in at some of the lower frequencies. This is generally a good thing for sealed as they naturally roll off at those frequencies and most people use an EQ to add boost there anyway but for a ported box you'll end up with a bump in the FR where the boost is on the amp.

You mentioned something about the RMS rating for the Shiva-X being 600W and you want to get the most out of it. You may be aware of this but in case you're not that's just an electrical limit, you can still (easily) exceed the mechanical limit of the driver. There's a good video on this at the eD blog - second one down on this page:
http://blog.edesignaudio.com/?cat=5




I'm not trying to discourage you just point out that you may be looking in the wrong places. If I were you and the size restriction is strict I'd either build the box they recommend and put up with the chuffing or I'd build a sealed box. If you're set on ported you may have to compromise on the size or tune the box higher than the 19hz you're hoping for.
lennon_68 is offline  
post #23 of 60 Old 02-22-2009, 09:24 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
usil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 133
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Lennon, thanks for the great input. I have considered many of the issues you mention of this design. While I could build this in a sealed box and skip the issues, as a DIY project I have opted to see if I can engineer around the issues and wind up with better performance.

Exterior dimensions: You are right, I have not taken into consideration the volume displacement of the port tubes at this time. My current dimensions of 20x20x26 just allows for one brace inside. I will apply a correction factor to the dimensions when I measure the total volume used.

Modeling software: I will try this as well as Google Sketch. I have a few weeks before I will be able to build this so I have some time to play around with it.

Port Placement: This will be a challenge. My design will use two ports to eliminate the chuffing issue it mentions using one 4" port. Getting two 41" port tubes inside the box will take some planning but PVC and connectors allow some flexibility so I am willing to give this a try. I believe I can do this because the new SVS PB12+ is also a 4.3 cubic ft box and it has three port tubes inside. I will build the port tubes first and insure that the cuts and lengths will fit into the dimensions I choose before I lock in the final box dimensions. How they fit will allow me to properly place the internal brace to be used for box strength and PVC attachment.

Power rating: It looks like the Bash 500 will power the Shiva fine but I do not know the effect it will have that it mentions on the boost. I am hoping that proper amp adjustments and power control will allow me to deal with it. That article actually does mention using a 500W amp with only the single port chuffing as an issue so I am hoping there is some latitude in this design. I will see and report any issues after it is built.

Thanks again for the details you provided and I do not at all feel it is criticism. I am hoping others have already built this using these parameters and hope they chime in to provide their results.

Usil
usil is offline  
post #24 of 60 Old 02-22-2009, 11:28 AM
 
mjg100's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 9,112
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by usil View Post

Lennon, thanks for the great input. I have considered many of the issues you mention of this design. While I could build this in a sealed box and skip the issues, as a DIY project I have opted to see if I can engineer around the issues and wind up with better performance.

Exterior dimensions: You are right, I have not taken into consideration the volume displacement of the port tubes at this time. My current dimensions of 20x20x26 just allows for one brace inside. I will apply a correction factor to the dimensions when I measure the total volume used.

Modeling software: I will try this as well as Google Sketch. I have a few weeks before I will be able to build this so I have some time to play around with it.

Port Placement: This will be a challenge. My design will use two ports to eliminate the chuffing issue it mentions using one 4" port. Getting two 41" port tubes inside the box will take some planning but PVC and connectors allow some flexibility so I am willing to give this a try. I believe I can do this because the new SVS PB12+ is also a 4.3 cubic ft box and it has three port tubes inside. I will build the port tubes first and insure that the cuts and lengths will fit into the dimensions I choose before I lock in the final box dimensions. How they fit will allow me to properly place the internal brace to be used for box strength and PVC attachment.

Power rating: It looks like the Bash 500 will power the Shiva fine but I do not know the effect it will have that it mentions on the boost. I am hoping that proper amp adjustments and power control will allow me to deal with it. That article actually does mention using a 500W amp with only the single port chuffing as an issue so I am hoping there is some latitude in this design. I will see and report any issues after it is built.

Thanks again for the details you provided and I do not at all feel it is criticism. I am hoping others have already built this using these parameters and hope they chime in to provide their results.

Usil

When I talked to Kevin regarding building my sub he said the 300 watt Bash amp would be good for the smaller ported box with one 4" port. He said the 500 watt Bash amp that PE sold would be good for the larger (I think it is 6.35 CF) ported box using two 4" ports. You will need to change a couple resistors in the amp to lower the cut off point. There is some info regarding this on PE's site.
mjg100 is offline  
post #25 of 60 Old 02-22-2009, 11:48 AM
AVS Special Member
 
michael hurd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: 49th parallel
Posts: 2,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Forget the dual 4" ports, as said, they occupy too much volume in your fixed size box. WinISD says that with 500 watts input, the single 5" PVC sweep elbow I posted will have a maximum airspeed of 17.9 m/s at just below tuning, provided you have a proper high pass filter set at tuning.

You have to make a compromise somewhere... and I think that going with a single 5" round port that's curved is about the best, lower air speed than a single 4", and takes up less of your fixed volume than a pair of 4" ports. There is no restriction compared to a pair of 90 degree elbows or 45's, the cross sectional area is constant and the curve is gentle.

"You take the blue pill - the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. You take the red pill - you stay in Wonderland and I show you how deep the rabbit-hole goes."
michael hurd is online now  
post #26 of 60 Old 02-22-2009, 11:58 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
usil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 133
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I like the idea of just using a single 5" port. I will check around for this size tubing. The port length calculates to 30.4 inches. Is this what you get?

Also, I have just been looking at the resistor change needed on the amp and I am good enough with a soldering iron to do this. I created a separate thread to address this single issue but maybe you can help. Here is the thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post15885350

As someone just entered, the O-Bash 500W amp I ordered from Shiva may not be the same 500W amp (from PE) so I am uncertain of the change I need to reduce the boost.

Usil
usil is offline  
post #27 of 60 Old 02-22-2009, 12:06 PM
AVS Special Member
 
michael hurd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: 49th parallel
Posts: 2,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Look at this elbow I linked before: elbow

This is something you might be able to source locally from an industrial wholesaler in the electrical conduit section.

"You take the blue pill - the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. You take the red pill - you stay in Wonderland and I show you how deep the rabbit-hole goes."
michael hurd is online now  
post #28 of 60 Old 02-22-2009, 12:14 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
usil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 133
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
That is a lot for 5" PVC and I am having trouble finding other 5". Maybe fitting one 6" at 44.7" will be easier than the two 4" ports at 40.7"each. An up and down 6" PVC section inside using elbows would fit ok.

Edit - Ok, I found a 5" PVC supplier on line and asked for a quote. I will make the flared ends myself which I see how to do on the net by heating the ends.

Usil
usil is offline  
post #29 of 60 Old 02-22-2009, 12:48 PM
AVS Special Member
 
michael hurd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: 49th parallel
Posts: 2,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Take a look at this pretty terrible drawing, I used paint, and I have no skills.... :P
LL

"You take the blue pill - the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. You take the red pill - you stay in Wonderland and I show you how deep the rabbit-hole goes."
michael hurd is online now  
post #30 of 60 Old 02-22-2009, 12:53 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Stephen Hopkins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Douglasville, GA
Posts: 3,308
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
With 6" you could probably do without flares.

Stephen Hopkins is offline  
Reply DIY Speakers and Subs

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off