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post #1 of 16 Old 04-17-2009, 09:06 AM - Thread Starter
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What is the best way to hide the wood joints on my speaker stands before painting them? I want to get a smooth unbroken look so if figure I need to cover the joints. Do people just use some spackle on there or is something like Bondo better?

Thanks
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post #2 of 16 Old 04-17-2009, 09:13 AM
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MDF or wood?
What type of joint is it?
What type of finish are you wanting?

if there are no gaps and its basically just the line, then sanding it level is the first step. Spackle works for holes pretty well and i dont notice it on most of the stuff i have built, but bondo works better for higher gloss stuff where the seam would show up.
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post #3 of 16 Old 04-17-2009, 11:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Ya, MDF with a piano black finish. Seam will be where I glue two peices of 3/4 inch MDF together for the base so there will be a seam on the front and sides of the base. I was thinking I should just put a thin coat of bondo along the front and sides before painting but I have never done it before so looking for suggestions.
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post #4 of 16 Old 04-17-2009, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaoticBliss View Post

Ya, MDF with a piano black finish. Seam will be where I glue two peices of 3/4 inch MDF together for the base so there will be a seam on the front and sides of the base. I was thinking I should just put a thin coat of bondo along the front and sides before painting but I have never done it before so looking for suggestions.

the password is high build primer.

this guy did a fantastic black piano finish over mdf.
http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthr...0&page=1&pp=35


Listen. It's All Good.
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post #5 of 16 Old 04-17-2009, 11:35 AM
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i have never done a piano finish but i have looked into it
basically you will want to use as little bondo as possible then use a high build primer.

if you use a tinted primer it will make the black coverage easier.
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post #6 of 16 Old 04-17-2009, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaoticBliss View Post

What is the best way to hide the wood joints on my speaker stands before painting them? I want to get a smooth unbroken look so if figure I need to cover the joints. Do people just use some spackle on there or is something like Bondo better?

Thanks

Sandable filler primer made for invisible MDF butt joints under flat black paint on my Orion baffles/woofer frames.
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post #7 of 16 Old 04-17-2009, 03:17 PM
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Elmer's wood filler.
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post #8 of 16 Old 04-17-2009, 03:53 PM
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bondo

Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!

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post #9 of 16 Old 04-17-2009, 04:51 PM
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Is the recommendation still bondo even if the box will be covered with a veneer or laminate?
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post #10 of 16 Old 04-17-2009, 06:17 PM
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Bondo's overkill for small seams. Lots of extra work sanding. Standard elmers wood filer works fine.
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post #11 of 16 Old 04-18-2009, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mynym View Post

Bondo's overkill for small seams. Lots of extra work sanding. Standard elmers wood filer works fine.

What ever you use, let it dry for a week before the finishing starts.
Just about everything shrinks!
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post #12 of 16 Old 04-18-2009, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcgilbert View Post

What ever you use, let it dry for a week before the finishing starts.
Just about everything shrinks!

EVERYTHING shrinks with age?? Damn. IT must be awful getting old.
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post #13 of 16 Old 04-19-2009, 05:11 AM
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You don't know the half of it TS.
Besides shrinking, different fillers have different effects on the primer and paint. You need to allow all of the residual outgassing time. Even primer shrinks into scratches and pinholes. I use auto "glazing putty" for the pinholes in the primer, then prime again.
I seal MDF first with sanding sealer. Don't know, if I had better primer it may not be necessary.
Spray cans just don't have enough solids in them. I would rather not go to full automotive primers, but they will do the job. I need to look for a full body, plain old enamel primer.
Those million dollar car paint jobs? Part of it is because they let it cure for months between prep and paint. ( tells you something about the reality TV shows doing a car in a week)
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post #14 of 16 Old 04-19-2009, 08:06 AM
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tvrgeek, What brand of sealer do you recomend?
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post #15 of 16 Old 04-19-2009, 05:31 PM
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Whatever the store has. Or, You can just use thinned shellac. The old famous "Spit Coat"

If you use automotive finishes, read their docs. I can get DuPont locally, so that is what I have used. I lean that way for toughness. A friend who owned a high end restoration shop preferred lacquer primer, as you could spray and sand every hour. I think it was also so he could keep in in the gun and not have to fool with cleaning it all day.
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post #16 of 16 Old 04-19-2009, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mynym View Post

Standard elmers wood filer works fine.

How stable is it? I noticed it's water based, so what happens when you put water based contact cement on it, or water based (latex) paint on it? Will it soften, or what?
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