help...how do I veneer corners? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 7 Old 05-30-2009, 01:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi everyone,

I would like to start my own speaker build and one of the only things holding me back is some confusion I have around the veneering process. Basically I am wondering how to get the corners/edges so there are no visible seams. If I was working with regular wood I would just create miter joints, but I assume I can not do this with veneer. Now I know that most veneer is going to be quite thin but I still feat that if I just put on together with butt joints then it will be noticeable and look odd (well not-professional).

can anyone help me with this? Any links/tutorials that cover this specific area would be great.

Thanks.
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post #2 of 7 Old 05-30-2009, 03:17 AM
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You do one side, then plane it flush. The next side overlaps the first edge. You plane that flush.

Some are built by doing the veneer first, then when cut at a miter, the veneer is also a miter. More common on production boxes. Has to be dead on.

Don't expect to get it right on your first try. Build test boxes. ( small with cheap veneer)
In other words, you do it just like you get to Carnegie Hall: Practice man, practice.
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post #3 of 7 Old 05-30-2009, 08:57 AM
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post #4 of 7 Old 05-30-2009, 10:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvrgeek View Post

You do one side, then plane it flush. The next side overlaps the first edge. You plane that flush.

If I do it this way, wont you be able to see the cross-grain (is that a word?) of the wood veneer? I know the veneer is thin, but I would assume you would still see this and it would basically be a butt-joint.
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post #5 of 7 Old 05-31-2009, 03:31 AM
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Maybe. It is the standard furniture technique. Other than doing the veneer before you cut the miters, like production factory, that is what you get. Roll back the clock 100 years, veneer was 1/8 or thick, it could be mitered. Quite typing and go make some test corners.
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post #6 of 7 Old 05-31-2009, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhensley View Post

If I do it this way, wont you be able to see the cross-grain (is that a word?) of the wood veneer? I know the veneer is thin, but I would assume you would still see this and it would basically be a butt-joint.

man, don't sweat it. if you do it right, it won't be noticable unless looking very closely.

chasing rattles ......

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post #7 of 7 Old 05-31-2009, 06:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhensley View Post

If I do it this way, wont you be able to see the cross-grain (is that a word?) of the wood veneer? I know the veneer is thin, but I would assume you would still see this and it would basically be a butt-joint.

I would add a caveat to the other responses. With natural veneer (i.e. no backer) the "cross-grain" as you call it is invisible. With backed veneer, two ply, or NBL being the worst, you can see some of the joint, especially if the backer layer takes your finish differently than the veneer layer. For example, on two ply natural maple veneer, the backer layer is luan and darkens much more than the maple with an oil based finish so you can see the line. With darker woods such as cherry, mahogany etc it is not noticeable at all. Water based finishes also make it a lot less noticeable.

On the other hand, backed veneer is much easier to work with than natural veneer, especially for larger speakers where you might have to join two sheets of natural veneer together to cover the larger panels.

Regards,

Dennis
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