Double 19O.v2 18" Build thread - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 27 Old 06-17-2009, 05:31 PM - Thread Starter
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I am almost to ready to pull the trigger on these boxes that I've been designing for a while now. I have what I think to be the completed design unless anyone has any suggestions, I'm always open to suggestions.

With my current plans, I'd have 2 eD 19O.v2s each in their own enclosure powered with the EP2500 at 2Ohms each.

Enclosure Design:

Box Specifications:
Dimensions: 28in H, 22in W, 34 D
Enclosure Volume: 8.592 cu ft w/o bracing
8.013cu ft w/ bracing

Port
Port tuning: 19.999192360213 hz ~ 20hz.
Port Dimensions: 3in H, 20.5in W, 42.95in D
Port surface area: 61.5

Bracing
Bracing total Volume: 1000.512cu in
.579cu ft

Box Features
4 lay-in heavy duty handles, 2 per side.
Heavy duty Bed-liner coating.


I can't think of anything else to mention that the pictures don't say. Ask if anyone has questions. I'm not sure how long this will take to actually get going, so bear with me.





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post #2 of 27 Old 06-17-2009, 05:47 PM
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I'd say to tune that sub lower so you can enjoy the really low stuff.


You could compare with NeoDan's design at this link:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ht=easy+button
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post #3 of 27 Old 06-17-2009, 07:02 PM - Thread Starter
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I would like to tune down there but I do need some High SPL, I'm using them for HT and a moderate PA system. 20hz just seemed a decent balance between the two. I should probably have mentioned that earlier...

From what I've read, tuning a port higher, like in the car audio world, will get you higher spl in the middle of the sub's range. I can't tune too high because I'd still like to use em for HT because they'd blow my little 200w 12" away.

I would tune lower if it were just for HT. =]
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post #4 of 27 Old 06-17-2009, 07:14 PM
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I would still lower the tune a bit. In fact I would a lot if you can. Down to say around 15 hz??? That's where I have mine using the same driver. If you're using for PA purposes you can always use the 30 hz filter that's available on the EP2500. That way you can get the best of both worlds.
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post #5 of 27 Old 06-17-2009, 08:57 PM
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You could always do multiple round ports and tune lower with them. Then plug one of the ports to get a higher tune for PA usage. This could be the best of both worlds.
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post #6 of 27 Old 06-18-2009, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsloms View Post

You could always do multiple round ports and tune lower with them. Then plug one of the ports to get a higher tune for PA usage. This could be the best of both worlds.

Actually that would lower the tuning.

It is a good idea though.

Limitless Earth,

The one weakness I see in your box is the slot port could use a brace running down the entire center of it mouth to end. You could use this to brace the enclosure and also to have the ability to alter your tuning. Plug one side of the slot port up and drop the tuning low for HT and then for PA/music or whatever run both sides of it open with a little higher tune and more port area. You'd have to play with the port area/ length to get a good mix of tunes with both sides open and one side plugged.

Like this...but with only one port brace, not 2.















If you could chop your port down to a 30" length and increase the height to 3.5" while running a .75" brace/ divider down the center of it this would give you a tune of around 25hz for PA with the whole port open increasing sensitivity, power handling and punch and a tune of close to 18hz for HT by plugging one side. You should have good response down to 16hz in that config. It'll be a bit underported in HT mode , but not too bad really. The length that would be chopped off of the port will make up for increasing the port to 3.5" for the most part.
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post #7 of 27 Old 06-18-2009, 08:36 PM - Thread Starter
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I like this, it wouldn't be too difficult too. I would just have to make some little rectangular plug with some dry sealant. maybe put some pressure down latches on the sides.

The only problem I could see is the strength of the plug holding in position when I'm really hitting the lows at higher volume. Anybody know of a good dry sealant?
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post #8 of 27 Old 06-18-2009, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LimitlessEarth View Post

I like this, it wouldn't be too difficult too. I would just have to make some little rectangular plug with some dry sealant. maybe put some pressure down latches on the sides.

The only problem I could see is the strength of the plug holding in position when I'm really hitting the lows at higher volume. Anybody know of a good dry sealant?


Just use closed cell foam cut to a rectangle slightly larger than the slot itself. This will effectively "close off" the port. It will not get blown out of the slot either. The friction of the foam will easily hold it in place.
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post #9 of 27 Old 06-18-2009, 08:51 PM
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If you were using PVC for ports, you could probably find a way to mount a 4" female screw adapter to the very back of one of the ports. That way you wouldn't see the threads when you were looking directly at the sub. Then you could simply make a longer plug with the male screw adapter on the end. Stick the long plug into the port and tighten.

You'd have to go to Lowes or HD and experiment a bit, but they have various sized screw caps and all that neat stuff to probably make it work.


Then again, if the ports were in back, you could just put the screw-in portion towards the outside of the port. Stuff it, and screw the cap on very easily. No one could see it.

Just a thought.
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post #10 of 27 Old 06-19-2009, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LimitlessEarth View Post

I like this, it wouldn't be too difficult too. I would just have to make some little rectangular plug with some dry sealant. maybe put some pressure down latches on the sides.

The only problem I could see is the strength of the plug holding in position when I'm really hitting the lows at higher volume. Anybody know of a good dry sealant?

Foam could work. You could make a plug out of wood with thick weatherstripping on it, or you could just stuff the heck out if with a throw pillow or something. I'm sure you can come up with something.
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post #11 of 27 Old 07-12-2009, 09:23 PM - Thread Starter
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So I haven"t done anything in a while here but now I have this train moving. I have adjusted my designs and I'm starting to build. The subs now are doubled up on MDF on the largest sides to reduce flex, and have 3 different port tunings; 15hz, 25hz, 35hz. The tuned ports slide in and lock into the box's port, extending the tuning down.

I ordered my first of the two woofers, it arrived on Friday the 10th.
Today, I bought the wood for the first enclosure and started mapping out the pieces onto the slab.

Each woofer will take about 2.5 sheets of 4x8ft MDF. Heavy!

Have some pictures!







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post #12 of 27 Old 07-13-2009, 05:29 AM
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Looking good so far. A friend of mine got the 15" version and it shipped in a nice wooden crate wrapped in that same cardboard box. I noticed the shipping weight of my 19ov.2 was less than the 16ov.2 and noticed that, while it was still packed well, it was received in stiff cardboard.

Are you just building one at a time or waiting for the next one to arrive? You will be glad that you decided on keeping the 15 hz tuning option, but I may have skipped over where you said the port diameter. Did you say that they will be slot ports or did you change your mind? Also a more fun question, is this your first real sub? What do you have now?
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post #13 of 27 Old 07-13-2009, 10:19 AM - Thread Starter
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I am just building one for the time being, I'm seeing what the first ends up like before I pull the trigger on the second. Each one is gonna' be around 200lbs! I need the rig to stay relatively portable.

The first port, which is tuned around 35hz, is 3" tall 20.5inches across and 12.5" in depth. The second port, tuned to 25hz, is 2.25" tall, 17.5" across and 16.56" in depth. The last and lowest tuned port is 1.5" tall, 17.5 inches across and ~40.3" in depth.

They are all slot ports and the 15hz port and the 25hz port fit into the 35hz tune on the box.

This is my first sub! :] I have been using a A2-300 ed sub for a while now and before that I had a 125watt 10" klh piece-of-crap... the amp died on me and I ended up running it passively through my amp. The A2-300 works well in the room that I have it in but I don't have any head room...
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post #14 of 27 Old 07-13-2009, 11:37 AM
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I'm looking forward to seeing how the ports turn out.
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post #15 of 27 Old 07-13-2009, 12:01 PM
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You may run into some port chuffing with the lower tuned port. I will run it when I get home, but I have a feeling you will get a lot of chuffing when it gets below 25-30 hz.
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post #16 of 27 Old 07-13-2009, 12:46 PM
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i'd be interested to know if your drivers measure to ed spec.

others have found their drivers to measure way off spec.

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #17 of 27 Old 07-13-2009, 01:04 PM
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I've done something somewhat similar. I used an A5-350 for a while and then built two sonosubs with 19ov.2s pushed by an ep2500. I love them. Once you get your port and tuning figured out, I think you'll be pretty happy with your subs as well. Those drivers bang
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post #18 of 27 Old 07-13-2009, 01:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

i'd be interested to know if your drivers measure to ed spec.

others have found their drivers to measure way off spec.

That doesn't sound good... How much off have you heard?
And yay for only buying one for now.
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post #19 of 27 Old 07-13-2009, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

i'd be interested to know if your drivers measure to ed spec.

others have found their drivers to measure way off spec.

I used the eD spec on mine and, at least tuning frequency, was only off by less than about a half db measured. Still sounds good with the eD specs. I wouldn't worry too much about the specs. The ones that I saw published somewhere else wouldn't even give a correct model anyway.
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post #20 of 27 Old 07-13-2009, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonnash View Post

I used the eD spec on mine and, at least tuning frequency, was only off by less than about a half db measured. Still sounds good with the eD specs. I wouldn't worry too much about the specs. The ones that I saw published somewhere else wouldn't even give a correct model anyway.

somebody posted anger and frustration that the measurements weren't anywhere close to what was published. among other things, qes popped from about .35 to about .50. that puts a lot of "flab" in the sound.

one man's opinion is only a signal to investigate further.

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post #21 of 27 Old 07-13-2009, 02:44 PM
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Not saying it doesn't have a difference in the overall sound, just that it won't really make a difference in his modeling. His finished product will still work. Something to say about the way that people measure too. Different software might give different specs when measured. It may have been Dan that measured the driver and gave the specs before. Not saying he is wrong, in fact he is probably dead on accurate as he has no reason to fluff his measurements. Anyone know which specs mktheater used when doing his?
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post #22 of 27 Old 07-23-2009, 06:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey again, I have updates!

I know this is going pretty slow but only because I don't have many tools and my work partner is only available acouple hours at a time every other day. But still, progress.

A few days ago we finished cutting all the parts out...


Today we cut some nice looking holes in the 4ply baffle.


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post #23 of 27 Old 07-23-2009, 08:31 PM
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Nice start!

I would read the bracing thread though. Your tiny little MDF braces make me nervous. I ripped all mine out of one enclosure. It was just too flimsy.
Try cutting it out of 2x2 (2x4 cut in half) or something similar that is rigid, like 7 ply birchwood. This is just my opinion.

Here is the bracing thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1155848

Also, I always cut the bracing AFTER I get four enclosure sides put together, because sometimes the lengths may not match up, unless you're really good at cutting wood to exact measurements (less than 1/16", I'm no pro).

"The boom is dead, long live the bass"
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post #24 of 27 Old 07-23-2009, 09:37 PM - Thread Starter
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I had some long thoughts about my little bracings and just decided to double up a couple sides that would yield the most flex... so the two large side panels and top and 2ply 3/4 MDF. I know... weight... blah blah blah. Read this, specifically the section of material doubling. http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/index.php...d=91&Itemid=97

I'm not too worried about the bracings after the second sheets. I know its gonna weigh about 200lbs but I have wheels and friends.

That bracing thread seemed very aggressive and snappy... Next sub, I'll rethink my bracings but I've already cut everything for now. =o
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post #25 of 27 Old 07-23-2009, 09:58 PM
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Interesting article. The one thing I didn't like, is he says 18mm 7 ply is heavier than 18mm MDF. But all the 7 ply I've ever used was much lighter than MDF.
I had no idea that doubling up on thickness equates to making the panel 8 times stiffer. Not sure I can trust that though, based on his weight comments. Did I misread the article maybe?

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post #26 of 27 Old 07-24-2009, 12:56 AM - Thread Starter
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He's talking about the mass of 13ply birch, which would be more dense than 7ply.
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post #27 of 27 Old 08-14-2009, 07:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Well then! I am now about 95% done with the first of the two woofers. I'm probably going to make the second later this year or next summer, after I see how this works out... anyway, pictures~

I know its not pretty but no one gets to see it after this... As long as it's sealed, Y'know.





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