Natalie P MTM integrating a subwoofer? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 7 Old 09-22-2009, 12:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Currently my HT system consists of (5) Infinity Primus 150 speakers and a DIY subwoofer I built some time ago in a 5.1 configuration. In order to satisfy my DIY bug and to also conserve some floor space I would like to build a Natalie P style small tower enclosure with a partitioned section for the subwoofer integrated into the bottom of the tower. I would basically take the Natalie P design and integrate it into a ~42-46" tall tower with a solid partition 22" from the top where the plate amp and the subwoofer would be housed. Would there be any drawbacks to doing something along these lines? It would be something similar to a Polk LSi15/25.

Also, I just bought a Denon AVR-590 to replace an older Yamaha receiver (wanted the HDMI and Audyssey EQ). It is rated at 110W @ 6-ohms. Would it be able to handle a Natalie P speaker setup without overheating? Another option would be to do the same with the TriTrix design that has an 8-ohm impedance should the Denon overheat.

I'd appreciate any advice that anyone could offer.

Fred
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post #2 of 7 Old 09-22-2009, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by f-dub View Post

Currently my HT system consists of (5) Infinity Primus 150 speakers and a DIY subwoofer I built some time ago in a 5.1 configuration. In order to satisfy my DIY bug and to also conserve some floor space I would like to build a Natalie P style small tower enclosure with a partitioned section for the subwoofer integrated into the bottom of the tower. I would basically take the Natalie P design and integrate it into a ~42-46" tall tower with a solid partition 22" from the top where the plate amp and the subwoofer would be housed. Would there be any drawbacks to doing something along these lines? It would be something similar to a Polk LSi15/25.

Also, I just bought a Denon AVR-590 to replace an older Yamaha receiver (wanted the HDMI and Audyssey EQ). It is rated at 110W @ 6-ohms. Would it be able to handle a Natalie P speaker setup without overheating? Another option would be to do the same with the TriTrix design that has an 8-ohm impedance should the Denon overheat.

I'd appreciate any advice that anyone could offer.

Fred

Other than not being able to use any of the free gain from room coupling and possible floor bounce issues, no. You'll have to pick a driver which has a shallow mount and will work in a reletively small enclosure. You may be better off reverse mounting so the driver motor is outside the enclosure. Of course this may severely decrease the WAF factor.

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post #3 of 7 Old 09-22-2009, 04:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Other than not being able to use any of the free gain from room coupling and possible floor bounce issues, no. You'll have to pick a driver which has a shallow mount and will work in a reletively small enclosure. You may be better off reverse mounting so the driver motor is outside the enclosure. Of course this may severely decrease the WAF factor.

Worrying about WAF is 12-24 months out, but that is one of the reasons the DIY bug has got me so much lately. I have to get it in while I still can.

I think I am just going to build two basic Natalie P towers, a matching center, and then figure out some sort of method to hide the sub. Thanks for the response.
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post #4 of 7 Old 09-22-2009, 04:59 PM
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How big is the room? How much woodworking experience do you have? What is your budget for the sub? What are your expectations for the sub? Do you want subtle touches of bass where applicable or your teeth rattled out of your head?

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post #5 of 7 Old 09-22-2009, 05:11 PM
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Would there be any drawbacks to doing something along these lines? It would be something similar to a Polk LSi15/25.

Places that are good for mains tend to be bad for bass. Sonically, you'd be much better off building 3-4 small subs and spreading them in random and incongruous locations around the room. One in a corner, one under a table, one on a shelf high on a wall, etc.

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Would it be able to handle a Natalie P speaker setup without overheating?

Should be fine.

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post #6 of 7 Old 09-22-2009, 07:11 PM - Thread Starter
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How big is the room? How much woodworking experience do you have? What is your budget for the sub? What are your expectations for the sub? Do you want subtle touches of bass where applicable or your teeth rattled out of your head?

I live in a mid-sized townhome with a pretty open floor plan for my downstairs. My family room is 19' deep by 13' wide with 10' ceilings. It has a ~10' opening to the left that goes into the dining room/stairs and then into the kitchen. I want sound that I can easily feel when watching a movie within a $500-700 budget for components. I would also like it to be as future proof as possible, meaning whenever I move out of my townhome into a house with a basement and get to really crank it up.

I currently have a DIY subwoofer that I did about 10 years ago when I was 17 using 3/4" MDF, PE 250W amp., and an Image Dynamics IDQ 12 subwoofer. The fit on it is pretty nice, but the rattle can finish leaves a bit to be desired. I am very comfortable with the carpentry side of things as I have all of the tools required and have built shelves, work benches, etc. in the past. One of my neighbors also has a rather large woodworking shop should I get into any trouble.
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post #7 of 7 Old 09-23-2009, 08:14 AM
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You may want to post your question over on htguide if you haven't already done so.

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