Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 10280 Old 10-20-2009, 10:26 AM
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90 dB/1 W/1 m at 11 Hz - that's amazing, Tom!

According to WinISD, the best I could do with a Mael-18 or TD18 in the same size vented box and any number of drivers is 84 dB.
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post #32 of 10280 Old 10-20-2009, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

Now I am just wondering what this flat pack will end up costing. Even with BB it's going to be a heavy shipment. Hmmm.... cheaper than an unpowered TH50, eh? I'd certainly hope so! Damn!

Hmmm..... I could use a TH50 or two...



Im really hoping the schematics are available as an option. Many here want to try and build one because that is the fun of DIY. I know it would be tough but that is actually the fun of doing DIY!

Please consider selling the instructions/drivers alone

I know I wont buy the kit if it includes the wood because the shipping costs won't make sense to me. Although its only 5 hours to Atlanta....ROAD TRIP!!!

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post #33 of 10280 Old 10-20-2009, 11:20 AM
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I'm not familiar with DIY, so don't laugh, but what is a "dado"? Is it a form of sealer? What is it made of?

David Budo
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post #34 of 10280 Old 10-20-2009, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbuudo07 View Post

I'm not familiar with DIY, so don't laugh, but what is a "dado"? Is it a form of sealer? What is it made of?

It's a type of wood joinery

http://www6.district125.k12.il.us/te...oodJoints.html
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post #35 of 10280 Old 10-20-2009, 11:35 AM
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Thanks Fatawan. So you wouldn't have to use any sealer(glue or something similar) with the kit? It would just be a matter of screwing it together and it will be properly sealed?

David Budo
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post #36 of 10280 Old 10-20-2009, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbuudo07 View Post

Thanks Fatawan. So you wouldn't have to use any sealer(glue or something similar) with the kit? It would just be a matter of screwing it together and it will be properly sealed?

No, you still have to glue it to seal it airtight, but the way it sounds, you would simply have to apply glue to the joints and screw it together.
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post #37 of 10280 Old 10-20-2009, 11:39 AM
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Ok. That's what I thought. Thanks for the info Fatawan.

David Budo
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post #38 of 10280 Old 10-20-2009, 12:21 PM
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A TH-50 that goes lower? Its the perfect product! Now if it has the output of TWO TH-50s AND goes LOWER

Curiously, does it actually sacrifice any musical performance or does it match the TH-50 toe to toe? Maybe even best it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver View Post

Danley will be selling the same product as a finished product.

And that is all I needed to know! Thanks for looking after the non-DIY crowd too! And with a 16" depth its just what the doctor ordered!

Lets see the final graph! *drools*
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post #39 of 10280 Old 10-20-2009, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Decadent_Spectre View Post

A TH-50 that goes lower? Its the perfect product! Now if it has the output of TWO TH-50s AND goes LOWER

Curiously, does it actually sacrifice any musical performance or does it match the TH-50 toe to toe? Maybe even best it?


And that is all I needed to know! Thanks for looking after the non-DIY crowd too! And with a 16" depth its just what the doctor ordered!

Lets see the final graph! *drools*

+1. I'm also anxious to see pics of the finished product.

David Budo
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post #40 of 10280 Old 10-20-2009, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbuudo07 View Post

+1. I'm also anxious to see pics of the finished product.

Here is a not so good photo of the cabinet and "a kit".
LL

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post #41 of 10280 Old 10-20-2009, 01:07 PM
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Definately salivating at the sidelines here...

Spoon feeding with a 9 yd bucket.
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post #42 of 10280 Old 10-20-2009, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver View Post

Here is a not so good photo of the cabinet and "a kit".

That's beautiful

If you're using it behind a screen,would it be better to lay it down or stand it up, or is it just room dependent?

David Budo
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post #43 of 10280 Old 10-20-2009, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbuudo07 View Post

That's beautiful

If you're using it behind a screen,would it be better to lay it down or stand it up, or is it just room dependent?

It really doesn't matter. Where else are you going to get this type of performance much less in a cabinet that only comes off the wall 15 inches?
Just for grins I'm going to take the DTS10 home and do comparison measurements in my home theater that features SH50/TH50 stereo pairs. I'll post the measurements just as quickly as I can.

God Bless,

Mike Hedden
Danley Sound Labs, Inc.
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post #44 of 10280 Old 10-20-2009, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Hedden View Post

It really doesn't matter. Where else are you going to get this type of performance much less in a cabinet that only comes off the wall 15 inches?
Just for grins I'm going to take the DTS10 home and do comparison measurements in my home theater that features SH50/TH50 stereo pairs. I'll post the measurements just as quickly as I can.

God Bless,

Mike Hedden
Danley Sound Labs, Inc.

You are the man! I can't wait for your comparison between the TH 50 and the DTS 10.

David Budo
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post #45 of 10280 Old 10-20-2009, 04:57 PM
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penn ,
Looks like I need to ride with you to Atlanta to pick our kits up to avoid shipping charges.
I am about 3.5 hours away.

If at first you dont succeed , get a bigger hammer !
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post #46 of 10280 Old 10-20-2009, 04:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Just to tease a little more, this is the outdoor measurement. I think it looks VERY good!! Keep in mind this was one of their first measurements, but still looks like this will kick pretty well.



It's a little hard to read, but the corner frequency at the bottom is 10.9 hz at 89.8 db. 25hz is almost right at 100 db and up at the 80-100 hz range it's in the 110 db range.
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post #47 of 10280 Old 10-20-2009, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by penngray View Post

Im really hoping the schematics are available as an option. Many here want to try and build one because that is the fun of DIY. I know it would be tough but that is actually the fun of doing DIY!

Please consider selling the instructions/drivers alone

I know I wont buy the kit if it includes the wood because the shipping costs won't make sense to me. Although its only 5 hours to Atlanta....ROAD TRIP!!!

I don't blame Tom for keeping control over the cabinet shape since it's so complicated. He's laying his reputation on the line here and, if some DIYer mucks up the cabinet and spreads it all over the internet that Tom's design sucks, that's not good for Tom. Shipping shouldn't be all that bad if you go with a freight company vs. UPS or Fedex who specialize in small stuff.

Dennis H
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post #48 of 10280 Old 10-20-2009, 09:29 PM
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I was looking at the other DSL offerings and comparing the sensitivities and overall FR. This is not as naturally flat as some of the other cabs, but it apparently has higher general sensitivity than the TH50 and some of the other cabs and the extension is obviously greater. Good signs both. I can't wait to get crackin on one.
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post #49 of 10280 Old 10-20-2009, 09:35 PM
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I'm anxious to see how it performs in room to other of your subs ricci. Next, I want to see how much it costs.

YID DIY
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post #50 of 10280 Old 10-20-2009, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

90 dB/1 W/1 m at 11 Hz - that's amazing, Tom!

According to WinISD, the best I could do with a Mael-18 or TD18 in the same size vented box and any number of drivers is 84 dB.

I wanted to say that too, WOW!

But keep in mind that Z = 2 ohms thereabouts there.
So its not 90.

Nevertheless, its still wow. Something that's 700L tuned to 11Hz to keep up with it would be at least a Mal-X 21 with dual 21" PRs 38mm. Mal-X 21 has 2X more power, +3dB there. That's the infra - at high freqs the Danley will have a home run.

The dropping response tracks most large rooms room gain. No wasted potential here. For the other pro-models its outdoor venues so no such advantage.

If its 2k it would be an absolutely steal - a single (affordable) RMX2450 would be most at home with dual 4 ohms and at least 600Wpc on tap. Low amp $$$....so why are we complaining about shipping with this level of overall value? I'd gladly pay usd600-800 of shipping to try it here!
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post #51 of 10280 Old 10-21-2009, 12:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Hedden View Post

It really doesn't matter. Where else are you going to get this type of performance much less in a cabinet that only comes off the wall 15 inches?
Just for grins I'm going to take the DTS10 home and do comparison measurements in my home theater that features SH50/TH50 stereo pairs. I'll post the measurements just as quickly as I can.

God Bless,

Mike Hedden
Danley Sound Labs, Inc.

Does that mean you could put the other subs like the TH-50/221 in any orientation and it wouldn't make a difference? Like say making the 221 stand up against a wall?
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post #52 of 10280 Old 10-21-2009, 04:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Decadent_Spectre View Post

Does that mean you could put the other subs like the TH-50/221 in any orientation and it wouldn't make a difference? Like say making the 221 stand up against a wall?

In the case of the TH221 there is only one exit option so it has to be laid on its side. The DTS20, THSPUD,TH212, TH115, TH112, and TH28 all give you flexible exit options. A very strong case for Danley is the fact that we give more sub options regarding exits, low frequency extension, and extreme high sensitivity than any other manufacturer I can think of.

Thanks

Mike Hedden
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post #53 of 10280 Old 10-21-2009, 05:30 AM
 
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If the DTS10 is turned on it's end so that it is 48" wide, 16" deep and 60" tall, how high off the ground is the top of the exit port. I only have 15" of space under my screen masking system. I would have to turn it onto it's side because the only way I could fit it behind my screen is to cut out the wall behind my screen. Able to do this because I have a 60" wide, 36" deep chase behind my front wall.
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post #54 of 10280 Old 10-21-2009, 05:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey mike, its got a corner opening like the spud so if it were turned with the large side up it would still keep the exit in a corner. I am guessing that's what you're asking, but if you are talking about laying it flat on its back to make it 16" tall then I am not sure of the best placement.
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post #55 of 10280 Old 10-21-2009, 05:40 AM
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Another placement question that might apply for some---can you cut a hole in a wall and have the exit port firing through the opening? Does that change the effective length of the horn?
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post #56 of 10280 Old 10-21-2009, 05:44 AM - Thread Starter
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I would leave that up to the experts, but I would think that as long as the cutout into the room was not exactly the same size then it wouldn't matter because the horn wouldn't be extended.
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post #57 of 10280 Old 10-21-2009, 05:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catapult View Post

I don't blame Tom for keeping control over the cabinet shape since it's so complicated. He's laying his reputation on the line here and, if some DIYer mucks up the cabinet and spreads it all over the internet that Tom's design sucks, that's not good for Tom. Shipping shouldn't be all that bad if you go with a freight company vs. UPS or Fedex who specialize in small stuff.

I have never read were DIYers trash a solid design at all, I know people are too smart to fall for that, we all know people can screw up any design. I also doubt Tom's rep is on the line at all He is pretty well in the Audio Hall of Fame

I do fully understand why he won't sell the plans. Im just lobbying for them

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post #58 of 10280 Old 10-21-2009, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2100 View Post

I wanted to say that too, WOW!

But keep in mind that Z = 2 ohms thereabouts there.
So its not 90.


The dropping response tracks most large rooms room gain. No wasted potential here. For the other pro-models its outdoor venues so no such advantage.

If its 2k it would be an absolutely steal - a single (affordable) RMX2450 would be most at home with dual 4 ohms and at least 600Wpc on tap. Low amp $$$....so why are we complaining about shipping with this level of overall value? I'd gladly pay usd600-800 of shipping to try it here!

The full kit (you can buy just the wood) including loudspeakers, should come in well under 1K.

Regarding impedance-you have to remember it is a complex number and is different at different freq.

Therefore a GRAPH is the only true way to determine what the actual impedance load is. It is included here.

As you can tell over most of the intended passband, the impedance is greater than 4 ohms. The minimums are just below 3 in a few areas.

Therefore this cabinet could easily be driven with most modern amplifiers.

The power rating will probably be around 1,000 watts continuous and 2K peaks.
LL

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post #59 of 10280 Old 10-21-2009, 06:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver View Post

The full kit (you can buy just the wood) including loudspeakers, should come in well under 1K.

Regarding impedance-you have to remember it is a complex number and is different at different freq.

Therefore a GRAPH is the only true way to determine what the actual impedance load is. It is included here.

As you can tell over most of the intended passband, the impedance is greater than 4 ohms. The minimums are just below 3 in a few areas.

Therefore this cabinet could easily be driven with most modern amplifiers.

The power rating will probably be around 1,000 watts continuous and 2K peaks.

WHOA!! Are you saying that the whole kit, with drivers, amplifier and delivery, should cost less than $2500?

David Budo
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post #60 of 10280 Old 10-21-2009, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbuudo07 View Post

WHOA!! Are you saying that the whole kit, with drivers, amplifier and delivery, should cost less than $2500?

two behind your screen would be INCREDIBLE!!!!!!

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