Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit - Page 223 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 3Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #6661 of 10075 Old 06-15-2010, 02:28 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
noah katz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Mountain View, CA USA
Posts: 20,387
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 113 Post(s)
Liked: 138
"Honestly though, the absorption of a couple inches is meaningless at these low frequencies. "

"Thanks and interesting that 1" OC703 would be effective in those low frequencies when its only 10% effective at 125Hz."

The 54 Hz resonance is related to the length of several of the legs of the fold path, each reinforcing the same freq and giving rise to that peak by reflecting back and forth from the box walls.

So the effective thickness of the absorption material is the sum of the thickness of all of the material at the reflection points.

Noah
noah katz is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #6662 of 10075 Old 06-16-2010, 04:55 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
penngray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 26,779
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 29
Thanks Noah, that does makes sense.

It is not "open-minded" to reject knowledge - Bob Lee
penngray is offline  
post #6663 of 10075 Old 06-16-2010, 11:19 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
noah katz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Mountain View, CA USA
Posts: 20,387
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 113 Post(s)
Liked: 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

The 54 Hz resonance is related to the length of several of the legs of the fold path, each reinforcing the same freq and giving rise to that peak by reflecting back and forth from the box walls.

Actually I meant to say "may be related"; the leg length is about 1/4 wavelength, but maybe my theory needs half wavelength to be valid.

Noah
noah katz is online now  
post #6664 of 10075 Old 06-16-2010, 10:44 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
MKtheater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: New Hartford, NY
Posts: 14,243
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 113 Post(s)
Liked: 408
Hey guys, I spent 4 hours messing with my BBE's and EmoQ. I wanted to really dial in my speakers and subs. The good news I did, the bad is that to make my subs flat with my mains they would be calibrated at 64db's and not 75 db's. I usually calibrate at 77db's which would put me 13 db's hot according to REW. I had to cut at 20hz(12db's) and boost at 80hz(3 db's). With some tweaking and moving things around(did I say 4 hours) here is what I got.

MKtheater is online now  
post #6665 of 10075 Old 06-17-2010, 02:00 AM
Senior Member
 
robobob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 241
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

Hey guys, I spent 4 hours messing with my BBE's and EmoQ. I wanted to really dial in my speakers and subs. The good news I did, the bad is that to make my subs flat with my mains they would be calibrated at 64db's and not 75 db's. I usually calibrate at 77db's which would put me 13 db's hot according to REW. I had to cut at 20hz(12db's) and boost at 80hz(3 db's). With some tweaking and moving things around(did I say 4 hours) here is what I got.


Very nice, MKtheater!

Though you are now closer to graph heaven, have you listened to enough familiar source material through the new EQ to see if the 12 dB cut in your sub output (in order to calibrate to the mains and get the flat response curve you showed) still rocks your world?

I am guessing that, as you were used to a house curve that was 13 dB hot before (according to REW) that you may at first, miss the fat low end in actual listening.

But, after a time, and especially for music, you may prefer the flatter response and the better (on the graph at least) integration between your sub and your main levels.

Let us know!

Thanks for your sharing.

P.S. What smoothing and/or frequency resolution does your posted graph represent?

=>><<=robobob
robobob is offline  
post #6666 of 10075 Old 06-17-2010, 07:15 AM
Advanced Member
 
Ettepet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: the Netherlands
Posts: 572
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatawan View Post

I think extra absorption is beneficial as I did see a small, yet measurable, improvement in the decay time around the peaks of the response of the DTS-10. If I was able to add more, I think the improvement would have also increased. EQ then takes the rest of that problem and tames it. I had over a full second of decay time at 54Hz before doing anything to fix it. That is a long time for a bass note to hang around.

Do you have any comparison data to find out what you sacrificed in output level, etc. elsewhere to improve behaviour at 54Hz?

Yesterday I listened to any remaining HF reflections after placing minimal preliminary absorption. I found that even with the supplied thin white foam you can easily get rid of nasty reflections behind the drivers. I already had foam stapled in the triangular area behind the tilted driver, and only needed some additional foam to the 2 outer sides of the (split) narrow tunnel behind the other driver.

You only need to firmly close the cabinet using the final panel, without placing drivers. You can then examine reflections first hand (stick your head inside the cabinet and make noise), or use a microphone etc..
Ettepet is offline  
post #6667 of 10075 Old 06-17-2010, 08:40 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
MKtheater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: New Hartford, NY
Posts: 14,243
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 113 Post(s)
Liked: 408
Quote:
Originally Posted by robobob View Post

Very nice, MKtheater!

Though you are now closer to graph heaven, have you listened to enough familiar source material through the new EQ to see if the 12 dB cut in your sub output (in order to calibrate to the mains and get the flat response curve you showed) still rocks your world?

I am guessing that, as you were used to a house curve that was 13 dB hot before (according to REW) that you may at first, miss the fat low end in actual listening.

But, after a time, and especially for music, you may prefer the flatter response and the better (on the graph at least) integration between your sub and your main levels.

Let us know!

Thanks for your sharing.

P.S. What smoothing and/or frequency resolution does your posted graph represent?

You are 100% correct. I love the house curve but this way the midbass is much better. I might go in between but like you said I have to get used to it.
MKtheater is online now  
post #6668 of 10075 Old 06-17-2010, 09:51 AM
Senior Member
 
robobob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 241
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

You are 100% correct. I love the house curve but this way the midbass is much better. I might go in between but like you said I have to get used to it.

Thanks for the reply.

Given the awesome SPL's formerly measured in your ideal room, we are all curious now as to which part of the spectrum shows compression first, when you measure near reference levels with this new EQ: the DTS-10's or your new mains!

BTW, please remind us: which model JBL's do you have running as LCR mains?

=>><<=robobob
robobob is offline  
post #6669 of 10075 Old 06-17-2010, 10:06 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
MKtheater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: New Hartford, NY
Posts: 14,243
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 113 Post(s)
Liked: 408
I don't get any compression at reference levels, I need to turn it up higher than that. I put together my own creation. I am using the same HF and MF sections from the JBL 3731 and I sealed the 15 so it rolls off at 80hz. The 3731 uses a ported 15(all their cinema speakers do). I am also using the 15 inch woofer in the 3732 but just one of them. I am running them triamped with BBE DS26 and DS48's doing all the crossovers and EQ. I tried running them biamped with a passive HF/MF section but they sound much better triamped. I am amp and ear limited, not speaker or sub. I am running pure class A into the speakers with Ada amps.
MKtheater is online now  
post #6670 of 10075 Old 06-17-2010, 12:31 PM
Senior Member
 
robobob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 241
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

I don't get any compression at reference levels, I need to turn it up higher than that. I put together my own creation. I am using the same HF and MF sections from the JBL 3731 and I sealed the 15 so it rolls off at 80hz. The 3731 uses a ported 15(all their cinema speakers do). I am also using the 15 inch woofer in the 3732 but just one of them. I am running them triamped with BBE DS26 and DS48's doing all the crossovers and EQ. I tried running them biamped with a passive HF/MF section but they sound much better triamped. I am amp and ear limited, not speaker or sub. I am running pure class A into the speakers with Ada amps.

I don't get any compression at reference levels, I need to turn it up higher than that.

LOL! I thought that might be the case.

So, you have modified the 3731 by sealing off the 15" LF section, check.

Do you have the 3732 LF section in parallel with the 3731 for all three LCR or what? Have you sealed the 3732 LF cabinet or leaving that ported?

Triamping means that you have defeated the internal passive crossover in favor of active crossovers?

Class A triamping and sealed 15" LF's rolled off at 80 Hz.
Sounds like a sweet, no compromise setup!

"Amp limited?"
With these efficient speakers and with triamping to divide the load among more amp channels, how could you be amp limited before your ears give out?

=>><<=robobob
robobob is offline  
post #6671 of 10075 Old 06-17-2010, 09:44 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
MKtheater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: New Hartford, NY
Posts: 14,243
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 113 Post(s)
Liked: 408
You are right, my speakers can take more than my amp can dish out but by then my ears would have already exploded. I am running a single sealed 15 for the LF sections(like the 3731 but sealed). The difference is the driver, my driver is from the 3732 and not the 3731, but still a single sealed 15. I am running 9 separate amp channels to power my front 3 speakers. They are controlled through the active digital crossovers. The sensitivities of each section are the following:

HF-115 db's/1 watt/ 1 meter
MF-107 db's/1 watt/1 meter
LF-99 db's/1 watt/ 1 meter
MKtheater is online now  
post #6672 of 10075 Old 06-17-2010, 10:21 PM
Member
 
grap3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 120
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 10
You know, I was sanding down the inside of my cabinet like I said I would and I noticed something.



Are these metal things supposed to stick out like that?

They could be rubbing against my driver and are what caused the tear. The really big tear was actually uniform and the size of the rip seems to fit the the spacing of these things.
grap3 is offline  
post #6673 of 10075 Old 06-17-2010, 10:38 PM
Troll
 
ufokillerz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NYC Area
Posts: 1,534
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 44
so i'm thinking for converting my dining room to a theatre room, i am not sure i can put up a 2nd layer of drywall. have a big window on the right side of the room and a patio door!. but i'll be able to close this room off possibly.

room dimensions 12'4" x 20'10".

will probably set up the the dual danley dts-10s as risers? any suggestions etc?
will most likely buy a acoustic screen when this gets set up.
ufokillerz is offline  
post #6674 of 10075 Old 06-18-2010, 04:29 AM
AVS Special Member
 
flyng_fool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Frisco, TX
Posts: 3,422
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by grap3 View Post

You know, I was sanding down the inside of my cabinet like I said I would and I noticed something.



Are these metal things supposed to stick out like that?

They could be rubbing against my driver and are what caused the tear. The really big tear was actually uniform and the size of the rip seems to fit the the spacing of these things.

Most definitely! That will rip your driver. Since that got past the Quality Control check I would think Danley would send you a new driver.

Dumb enough to spend lots of cash on this junk!
flyng_fool is offline  
post #6675 of 10075 Old 06-18-2010, 06:03 AM
Troll
 
ufokillerz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NYC Area
Posts: 1,534
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 44



not too sure if it matches up with where the hole originated from.
ufokillerz is offline  
post #6676 of 10075 Old 06-18-2010, 09:02 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Ricci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 5,082
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 187
Quote:
Originally Posted by grap3 View Post

You know, I was sanding down the inside of my cabinet like I said I would and I noticed something.



Are these metal things supposed to stick out like that?

They could be rubbing against my driver and are what caused the tear. The really big tear was actually uniform and the size of the rip seems to fit the the spacing of these things.

Quote:
Originally Posted by flyng_fool View Post

Most definitely! That will rip your driver. Since that got past the Quality Control check I would think Danley would send you a new driver.



No. I don't think it would ever come close to touching that. That is where the inverted driver mounts. If you look at the surround profile even if you were pushing the sub into bottoming out, the surround at that point will never move even 1/3rd that far. When the sub is pushed really hard the places that move out the furthest above the plane of the basket are the last 1/3rd of the surround and the edge of the cone where it attaches to the surround. The closer that you get to the edge of the surround, where it attaches to the basket, the less it moves. That nub of the mounting insert is all of the way up against the basket lip and about 0.70" down. Also both of my DTS10's have these sticking out and likely many others and I've not had any problems.
Ricci is offline  
post #6677 of 10075 Old 06-18-2010, 09:17 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
MKtheater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: New Hartford, NY
Posts: 14,243
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 113 Post(s)
Liked: 408
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricci View Post

No. I don't think it would ever come close to touching that. That is where the inverted driver mounts. If you look at the surround profile even if you were pushing the sub into bottoming out, the surround at that point will never move even 1/3rd that far. When the sub is pushed really hard the places that move out the furthest above the plane of the basket are the last 1/3rd of the surround and the edge of the cone where it attaches to the surround. The closer that you get to the edge of the surround, where it attaches to the basket, the less it moves. That nub of the mounting insert is all of the way up against the basket lip and about 0.70" down. Also both of my DTS10's have these sticking out and likely many others and I've not had any problems.

Wait a second, when did you get 2? Are they in the same room together? Hiw are your results? Did you mention this already? Spill the beans.
MKtheater is online now  
post #6678 of 10075 Old 06-18-2010, 09:30 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Ricci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 5,082
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 187
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

Wait a second, when did you get 2? Are they in the same room together? Hiw are your results? Did you mention this already? Spill the beans.

Ordered the second on the final day and got it in last week. Put it together last weekend and I'm trying to get it integrated with the other and mains lately with only brief periods of time available to do so. They are in the same room run in stereo. No HT or LFE channel unfortunately for now. Music playback, sound reinforcement of: synthesizer, keyboards, kick drum, bass guitar/whatever and use during mixing playback instead.
Ricci is offline  
post #6679 of 10075 Old 06-18-2010, 09:33 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
MKtheater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: New Hartford, NY
Posts: 14,243
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 113 Post(s)
Liked: 408
OK, make sure you post results, I know you will.
MKtheater is online now  
post #6680 of 10075 Old 06-18-2010, 09:55 AM
Troll
 
ufokillerz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NYC Area
Posts: 1,534
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 44
So i'm just wondering, does anyone have dts-10 lying on flat on the floor riser style? i know someone cut a 3rd hole into it on the side and sealed up the original mouth. I might be doing this in the coming months, hope i am good enough with the router and all to make a thing to cover the mouth up.
ufokillerz is offline  
post #6681 of 10075 Old 06-18-2010, 05:15 PM
Advanced Member
 
jmalto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 996
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
So I finally got 1 of my DTS-10's built (other is still in the works) and I was too excited to wait so I gave it a test drive. I decided to use Fatawan's approach and used thick egg-crating to fill in the spots that needed extra padding. I didn't go to the extreme he did, but I filled in the major spots that I felt needed it the most.

I really have limited places for these beasts and I was fully intending on using them as floor risers. My friend and I placed the sub with the port facing up in the spot for riser #1 and let her rip. First impression was.. Disappointing to say the least and I started to fill sick thinking we overdid the sound padding. I previously had 3 MFW-15's and a 12" JBL and the output was no where close on any of the the "usual" scenes we are used to watching. My friend tried to play it off like it still sounded good but I knew he was just being nice after we worked hard building the sub.

Remembering back to how sensitive these are to placement, I decided to stand it and have it fire into the room. There we go. The bass was 200% stronger and I was starting to experience what many of have posted here. I still wasn't fully satisfied and felt like my old combo was outdoing the Danley so we decided to rotate it and have it fire into the corner. HOLY CRAP. I am a huge bass head and have all but given up on my quest for "car" bass (the kind that makes your vision blurry due to the bass) but the Danley does a great in trying to keep up. I have the sub running hot and it is purely uncalibrated, but it is insane how awesome this sub is. Not only does 1 of them put the other 4 to shame, we ended up knocking one of my back speakers right off it's shelf onto the floor ($600 per speaker surround sound and yes it broke.)

Needless to say I am thrilled with the performance but sad I don't think I can use these as risers with my room. I will see how two do, but I am actually scared that they will knock EVERYTHING off the walls in my home theater room, including my projector and the fixed frame screen.

Great job Danley and thanks to all the people i've bugged in PM about building these
jmalto is offline  
post #6682 of 10075 Old 06-18-2010, 07:50 PM
 
mjg100's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 9,112
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Would like to thank Ricci for letting me hear his pair of DTS-10's The DTS-10's are very good subs suitable for music or HT. The way they could reproduce the low bass frequencies (12hz and 16hz) without making any noise was insane. A pair of these in your room should be all you ever need. I have never felt that much movement in a concrete floor.
mjg100 is offline  
post #6683 of 10075 Old 06-18-2010, 07:57 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
noah katz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Mountain View, CA USA
Posts: 20,387
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 113 Post(s)
Liked: 138
"Needless to say I am thrilled with the performance but sad I don't think I can use these as risers with my room."

You have a couple more options:

1) More work, but cut a port in the narrow side to fire sideways.

2) If you can handle more rise, raise them up and fire them into the floor.

BTW, did you do your listening with them as risers as close to them as you'd actually be?

Listening in the nearfield should compensate for some of the loading lost by not being nearer to a wall.

Noah
noah katz is online now  
post #6684 of 10075 Old 06-18-2010, 09:30 PM
Advanced Member
 
jmalto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 996
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

"Needless to say I am thrilled with the performance but sad I don't think I can use these as risers with my room."

You have a couple more options:

1) More work, but cut a port in the narrow side to fire sideways.

2) If you can handle more rise, raise them up and fire them into the floor.

BTW, did you do your listening with them as risers as close to them as you'd actually be?

Listening in the nearfield should compensate for some of the loading lost by not being nearer to a wall.


Thanks for the advice. I thought about raising them and I will run into an issue with my projector so that one is out. Firing sideways is an option so I may give that one some more thought.

I actually was sitting on the sub during my first set of tests with it laying in the spot as it would as a riser with the port facing up. This very well may of been an error on my part.
jmalto is offline  
post #6685 of 10075 Old 06-19-2010, 04:27 AM
AVS Special Member
 
tony123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Upstate, South Carolina
Posts: 4,992
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 25
Jmalto, sounds like you're having fun! I, too, went through a process before I could "see the light" with my Danley. Some, like you, seem to resolve things very quickly. It took me a few months. I really didn't feel like it was a world class sub until adding my second. Something about my room (maybe that it's 5000cf?) just wasn't clicking until the second sub joined the team. Anyway, I think everyone needs to go into this project knowing that it will take some effort. If it's not knocking your socks off, it ain't right yet! I suppose that's true with most subs, but I found this one more sensative than others I've had or heard.

Hey, how about some photos from some of these latest builds?

The "Twinseltown" Theater
Construction Thread
tony123 is offline  
post #6686 of 10075 Old 06-19-2010, 06:59 AM
Senior Member
 
robobob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 241
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

You are right, my speakers can take more than my amp can dish out but by then my ears would have already exploded. I am running a single sealed 15 for the LF sections(like the 3731 but sealed). The difference is the driver, my driver is from the 3732 and not the 3731, but still a single sealed 15. I am running 9 separate amp channels to power my front 3 speakers. They are controlled through the active digital crossovers. The sensitivities of each section are the following:

HF-115 db's/1 watt/ 1 meter
MF-107 db's/1 watt/1 meter
LF-99 db's/1 watt/ 1 meter

Thanks for the details. You ARE dedicated, Swapping out the drivers in the 3731 sections with the 15" from the 3732!

The ease/effortlessness of active-crossovers-with-one-amp-channel-per-driver systems has to be heard to be understood.

Other than going to Danley SH50's for the ultimate in phase coherence (imaging), you MAY be done with upgrade-itis in the MKtheater!

=>><<=robobob
robobob is offline  
post #6687 of 10075 Old 06-19-2010, 09:50 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Ricci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 5,082
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 187
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjg100 View Post

Would like to thank Ricci for letting me hear his pair of DTS-10's The DTS-10's are very good subs suitable for music or HT. The way they could reproduce the low bass frequencies (12hz and 16hz) without making any noise was insane. A pair of these in your room should be all you ever need. I have never felt that much movement in a concrete floor.

No problem Mike. Sorry I didn't have them integrated well yet and the listening area isn't the most conducive to relaxed insight into every acoustical nuance.
Ricci is offline  
post #6688 of 10075 Old 06-19-2010, 12:51 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
noah katz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Mountain View, CA USA
Posts: 20,387
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 113 Post(s)
Liked: 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmalto View Post

I actually was sitting on the sub during my first set of tests with it laying in the spot as it would as a riser with the port facing up. This very well may of been an error on my part.

Why would that be an error?

Noah
noah katz is online now  
post #6689 of 10075 Old 06-19-2010, 01:57 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
LTD02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 15,990
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 143 Post(s)
Liked: 856
Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

The 54 Hz resonance is related to the length of several of the legs of the fold path, each reinforcing the same freq and giving rise to that peak by reflecting back and forth from the box walls.

that doesn't seem right...maybe re-run calculations considering the _total_ horn length and the time that it takes for the wave to travel that distance. my guess is the peak is not a resonance, in the traditional sense, but rather the point of constructive interference between the two sides of the drivers (an efficiency peak). and as such, it could be eq'd out with a notch and not cause any other problems. perhaps t.d. can weigh in, as we all know that i have no idea what i'm talking about. ;-) as a suggestion for the danley folks, providing suggested eq might be a nice part of the dts-10 package since a smooth response is a requirement for hi-fi, even though not so much for traditional pro-audio setups (danleys typical customer).

Listen. It's All Good.
LTD02 is online now  
post #6690 of 10075 Old 06-19-2010, 02:10 PM
Member
 
jreaves1637's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Hoover, Al
Posts: 79
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

as a suggestion for the danley folks, providing suggested eq might be a nice part of the dts-10 package since a smooth response is a requirement for hi-fi, even though not so much for traditional pro-audio setups (danleys typical customer).

per danleys site
Recommended Processing ................ 15 Hz HP @ 24 dB/Butterworth


http://www.danleysoundlabs.com/pdf/D...ec%20sheet.pdf
jreaves1637 is offline  
Reply DIY Speakers and Subs

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off