Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 10055 Old 11-05-2009, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Smith View Post

Yeah, thanks for your insightful post.

Personally, I was weighing the cost of the building a Tuba HT (as my application does not prioritize the need for 11 Hz bass) and purchasing this.

This is a pretty neat piece...the 11Hz stuff is a bonus for me.

With about $200 in wood and $350-400 or so in drivers, I think the remainder is money very well spent.


Agreed! Don't forget that the umpteen pieces come to you cut and pre-drilled. That's worth something.

I've been chatting with Brandon over the phone for the last week or so about this project and I think many of us will be greatful that this is offered as a kit once you see the rabbet and dado cuts in the 2 large pieces. Keep in mind this box will be "sandwiching" several dividers between the 2 large pieces with perfectly mirrored cuts. If one of your dados is off by even 1/16", the divider will be racked inside the enclosure and likely throw the sound off completely. I've been doing woodworking for over 20 years and this would not be a project I would look forward to without a CNC machine. Don't get me wrong, I'm sure there are many of you that would love the challenge but I for one am very appreciative of the fact this is available in a kit.

Brandon, don't forget to take pics during the assembly. Maybe have someone do that for you so the glue doesn't set up on you too fast.
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post #722 of 10055 Old 11-05-2009, 09:26 PM
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"Looks like one the monoliths from 2001: A Space Odyssey"

my god, it's full of bass.

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #723 of 10055 Old 11-05-2009, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonnash View Post

I'll probably leave the box bare for a few days while I play around with it. That'll give me some time to decide on how to finish it. I'm not too horribly concerned with looks so I may just do the same thing as my LLT and use a semi-gloss black paint on it. It's easy and looks decent enough for me. Either that or use some of the truck bed liner for it.

http://www.acrytech.com/store.asp?pid=14119


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....Crank up the SIGNAL ... cut back the noise....
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post #724 of 10055 Old 11-05-2009, 09:49 PM
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too bad we can't get some measurements for:

1. the bfm hth (bill fitzmaurice's home theater tuba horn loaded subwoofer). one recent example: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1194093

2. dts-10

are these just different ways of loading the driver?

or, is there something about air couplers/tapped horns that is fundamentally different from traditional horns?

in addition to measurements, i'd be curious to hear the arguments for and against each design, as not everything seems to be captured in measurements at this point.

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post #725 of 10055 Old 11-05-2009, 10:20 PM
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"Actually most of the box is bubble wrap."

What's it for? Anything that could damage the wood will obliterate the bubble wrap.

Seems to me that a layer of cardboard to protect against scrapes would suffice.

"You REALLY need to assemble the kit kinda quick. The reason is that that the whole thing has to be "together" before the glue sets."

I was wondering about that; I was thinking of using epoxy resin that takes an hour or two to start curing.

I like the PL adhesive idea too; easier and less messy.

Noah
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post #726 of 10055 Old 11-05-2009, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

I was wondering about that; I was thinking of using epoxy resin that takes an hour or two to start curing.

I like the PL adhesive idea too; easier and less messy.


An hour or two.. I like the sound of that, as it should very forgiving. Any idea how long the PL adhesive takes to cure? Which would be best?
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post #727 of 10055 Old 11-05-2009, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

"Actually most of the box is bubble wrap."

What's it for? Anything that could damage the wood will obliterate the bubble wrap.

Seems to me that a layer of cardboard to protect against scrapes would suffice.

Most likely to keep the precision cut pieces (edges) damage-free by providing cushion from contacting each other inside the box.
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post #728 of 10055 Old 11-05-2009, 10:40 PM
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For those who are ordering the kit..what are you planning on powering it with? I'm looking at the QSC RMX 1850HD. Any other recommendations for around $500?
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post #729 of 10055 Old 11-05-2009, 10:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Using my ep2500. Enough power for 2 of them really. $350 shipped for the "updated" ep2500 (ep4000)
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post #730 of 10055 Old 11-05-2009, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommygee View Post

For those who are ordering the kit..what are you planning on powering it with? I'm looking at the QSC RMX 1850HD. Any other recommendations for around $500?

An XTi would offer a layer of DSP for smoothing out the frequency response and should have more than enough power. I wonder how well it behaves below 20Hz though...

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post #731 of 10055 Old 11-05-2009, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBentz View Post

An XTi would offer a layer of DSP for smoothing out the frequency response and should have more than enough power. I wonder how well it behaves below 20Hz though...

Weren't there some serious questions about the XTi line as far as low frequency response and power output? Shouldn't the standard budget amps (EP2500, Mackie/Tapco, RMX, etc.) work well with one or two of these subs?
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post #732 of 10055 Old 11-06-2009, 02:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonnash View Post

Ivan was right, this thing has got a lot of packing inside. IF for whatever reason the packaging won't fit through a door all the rest will. Just unpack outside and assemble inside.

Hmm...ok. It still has to fit through the lift door. That's a bit wider, like 35" wide. Brandon can you measure and post the dimensions of the package? Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by spanish68 View Post

Talk about leaving them in the dust, I just finished building a AE AV15X sub with 18" PR's and now I see this kit come along for a little more money but probably over twice the performance. I have to stop reading this forum so I can stop the upgrade fever.

+++++++1! Simulate it, even at tune the DTS-10 is more than duals.
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post #733 of 10055 Old 11-06-2009, 03:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver View Post

Are you trying to break the lease? Do you have any idea what kind of vibrations that cabinet will send through the building?

You would really tick off a bunch of people-unless you invite them all to your party.

Ok...i'll just run along and buy John's kit or a cute little PB-13U. The most headroom here is 7 SVSes in a 1000 cu ft room.

Actually the TH-112 already succeeded in pissing off people/police. I'll be moving to a totally new spanking building in Dec and the neighbours are all pretty ok (from what I see in the estate's forum), hopefully i'll get most guys around me interested. That's key.

Yea, you should put a sticker on the product - Not For Use In Apartments. That'd be really cool....

Some people just dream of owning a F1 car, or a Veyron...but no money! Ok sorry, people hate car analogies. How about people who can't do the fan IB sub or can't do 6 x 18" IB (I definitely can't). Well this would be a similar cheap thrill.....

But you may be right, it could be "too much" this time round. I'll just see what MK says with his dual DTS-10.
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post #734 of 10055 Old 11-06-2009, 04:36 AM
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Polyurethane glue might be another glue option.
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post #735 of 10055 Old 11-06-2009, 04:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZilchLab View Post

http://www.acrytech.com/store.asp?pid=14119


Have a pic of the front of those speakers? They look great from behind. My only concern with that finish is cost. $50+ for a gallon and I'm not sure 1 gallon would do it. I can use this paint and get it done for about $20 or so. Christmas time is coming and with a huge family to buy for I'm looking to save every penny. I will keep that as an option though.
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post #736 of 10055 Old 11-06-2009, 05:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2100 View Post

Hmm...ok. It still has to fit through the lift door. That's a bit wider, like 35" wide. Brandon can you measure and post the dimensions of the package? Thanks!



+++++++1! Simulate it, even at tune the DTS-10 is more than duals.

You love in an apartment building over there? Why don't you move out to The Woodlands and get yourself a nice house where volume won't matter
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post #737 of 10055 Old 11-06-2009, 05:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommygee View Post

For those who are ordering the kit..what are you planning on powering it with? I'm looking at the QSC RMX 1850HD. Any other recommendations for around $500?

A QSC DCA 1622 along with a DSP-4 to smooth out the warts -- same combo that will run my 4 FI 18IBs in the theater room.

Not sure I would seek out the DCA as a dedicated sub amp, but I fell into a 5-pk of them years ago for a nice price. They work well enough as my two sub systems won't need much power to drop the hammer.
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post #738 of 10055 Old 11-06-2009, 05:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mynym View Post

Alot of the DIY Pro builders prefer PL Premium adhesive over Titebond or white carpenters glue. I used this in my recent Tuba HT horn build. I really liked it's thick consistency. It made it easier to join the panels as the panels seem to stick to it better versus traditional carpenters glue where the viscosity is higher and the panels slip around more.

And as PL Premium is thicker any overflow acts as caulk ensuring there are no leaks. It also doesn't crack.

Here's some interesting tests with PL Premium

Ivan: Do you think PL Premium would work in this application or is white glue a better choice?

I prefer the construction adhesive better myself It doesn't dry to a hard consistancy and become brittle.

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post #739 of 10055 Old 11-06-2009, 05:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonnash View Post

Have a pic of the front of those speakers? They look great from behind. My only concern with that finish is cost. $50+ for a gallon and I'm not sure 1 gallon would do it. I can use this paint and get it done for about $20 or so. Christmas time is coming and with a huge family to buy for I'm looking to save every penny. I will keep that as an option though.

hehe, I have wasted about $200 on paint just doing my waveguides It has been a great learning project.

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post #740 of 10055 Old 11-06-2009, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

"Actually most of the box is bubble wrap."

What's it for? Anything that could damage the wood will obliterate the bubble wrap.

Seems to me that a layer of cardboard to protect against scrapes would suffice.

Currently we do not have a box properly fitted to put it in. It to large to be placed flat on a pallett.

So we used a box for a different product and it was still to small (in the vertical) and LOTS of room left over on the inside. The bubble wrap was just "filler" to keep things from moving around on the inside.

It actually took quite a while to "package" it for shipment. If it wasn't for 3 long pieces-it would be much easier to ship.

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post #741 of 10055 Old 11-06-2009, 05:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey Ivan, I am making a run to lowes if needed. What do you suggest having on hand before starting the build?
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post #742 of 10055 Old 11-06-2009, 06:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver View Post

Currently we do not have a box properly fitted to put it in. It to large to be placed flat on a pallett.

So we used a box for a different product and it was still to small (in the vertical) and LOTS of room left over on the inside. The bubble wrap was just "filler" to keep things from moving around on the inside.

It actually took quite a while to "package" it for shipment. If it wasn't for 3 long pieces-it would be much easier to ship.



How about packing the kit in maybe 3 smaller boxes?
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post #743 of 10055 Old 11-06-2009, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by penngray View Post

hehe, I have wasted about $200 on paint just doing my waveguides It has been a great learning project.

Tell me about it!
I have wasted easily three times that dollar amount in finishes (I'm a slow-learner).
In fact, I'm so dense--I bend light! (que the laugh track).

About that paint, I read a great tip in Mynym's build thread over at Bill Fitz's horn site.
The tip was to first apply a base coat of an affordable flat black paint and after it dries, apply the good stuff over it. You'll use about half as much of the good stuff this way.
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post #744 of 10055 Old 11-06-2009, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PassingInterest View Post

Tell me about it!
I have wasted easily three times that dollar amount in finishes (I'm a slow-learner).
In fact, I'm so dense--I bend light! (que the laugh track).

About that paint, I read a great tip in Mynym's build thread over at Bill Fitz's horn site.
The tip was to first apply a base coat of an affordable flat black paint and after it dries, apply the good stuff over it. You'll use about half as much of the good stuff this way.

Arrg.....where was that advice 3 months ago!!!

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post #745 of 10055 Old 11-06-2009, 06:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by penngray View Post

hehe, I have wasted about $200 on paint just doing my waveguides It has been a great learning project.

Exactly the reason I don't want to try out something new with this. I've used the spray on bed liner with a build for a friend's car sub a few months ago, but it didn't go on nearly as thick as I would want it. Plus the fact that it was i think $8-9 a can and we used 4 or 5 cans on a ~3 cubic foot box. Even with that it wasn't the result I would want.
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post #746 of 10055 Old 11-06-2009, 06:58 AM
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Question about where to put this sub ....

I have a closet behind the screen in my theater that is currently home to an army of amplifiers. Could this sub be put in a closet, with the output of the sub through a hole low in the front wall? Or would the hole in the wall 'extend' the horn and muck up performance?

Certainty and conviction are a sure sign you don't know what you're talking about! The world is not black and white, rather shades of grey!
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post #747 of 10055 Old 11-06-2009, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonnash View Post

Hey Ivan, I am making a run to lowes if needed. What do you suggest having on hand before starting the build?

Tightbond 3... has more open time.... I wouldn't use construction adhesive or any other latex tube type adhesive..the only other messy option is Gorrila glue..

Clamps....

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post #748 of 10055 Old 11-06-2009, 07:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ca1ore View Post

Question about where to put this sub ....

I have a closet behind the screen in my theater that is currently home to an army of amplifiers. Could this sub be put in a closet, with the output of the sub through a hole low in the front wall? Or would the hole in the wall 'extend' the horn and muck up performance?

Can't remember where in the thread, But I believe Ivan said it would be alright. Do a search and you should be able to find it. I'll try to tidy up the links in the opening post after I get done building.
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post #749 of 10055 Old 11-06-2009, 07:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Just got an e-mail a few minutes ago from Tom and he thinks I should go ahead and build away now before the drivers get in to allow time for everything to dry. I'm going to get a friend down here to help me take pics along the way and just to help in general. I've opened the box and have started removing packing material and that is a big portion of the box. Once a more suitable box is ready it should help out with weight and shipping. The size of the box will go down too just like Ivan said. I think this one came in a TH412 box.

Pic inside box just after opening.



A little more than halfway unpacked. Well, just the packing materials.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris View Post

Tightbond 3... has more open time.... I wouldn't use construction adhesive or any other latex tube type adhesive..the only other messy option is Gorrila glue..

Clamps....

Shouldn't need clamps. And I've got about a dozen recommendations for glues. I've used either elmer's wood glue or gorilla glue/gorilla wood glue for years on dozens of builds with no trouble and reasonably fast drying too. If anyone has reasons for me to change up now I'm all ears, but I'm running to lowe's or home depot this afternoon so I'll need to know by then.
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post #750 of 10055 Old 11-06-2009, 07:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Well photobucket isn't giving me good links to the newer pics. Hang a sec and I'll get them right.

Alright...fixed. That was weird. I'll also break out my better camera when I get started.
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