Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit - Page 28 - AVS Forum
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post #811 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 02:40 PM
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Wow, that looked straightforward to build.
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post #812 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 02:43 PM
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How would the sound from the DTS-10 be affected if it was mounted on the wall at the ceiling with the opening at the ceiling / wall boundary? This is largely dead space behind my plasma and could be an ideal location provided it would be acoustically okay.

Thought?

Louis
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post #813 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 02:46 PM
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Brandon,

Nice job on the assembly! Wow that's a lot of screws. I bet you know why I like to build with rabbet and dado joints now. Everything "just fits". Can't wait for everything to set up and for you to get the drivers in there and start taking some measurements.

Ryan
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post #814 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 02:46 PM
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Are there access panels in both sides? And wouldn't it be a lot easier to install the drivers before putting the last side on? (I know you don't have the drivers, just asking for future buyers).
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post #815 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 02:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Do you mean hanging it on the wall? If so it would work, but this really is a heavy subwoofer. I don't have any panels in it, no drivers, no paint and it's probably already over 200 lbs. Maybe well over that. It would be hard to get up there in the first place and also hard to keep up there probably.
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post #816 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 02:49 PM
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So yours is actually slightly wider than posted prior , which i liked better.

final dimensions, 60"x42"x16"
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post17392542


Will the current version any different or remaining at 44"?

Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonnash View Post

Dimensions are 16"x44"x59.5"

Haven't thought about the riser option yet. Don't know how I will run that. When the drivers come in I'm going to put it at the same placement that my current large sub is in just so I can get a nice A-B comparison. Then I'll start messing around with different placement.

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post #817 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 02:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whumpf View Post

Are there access panels in both sides? And wouldn't it be a lot easier to install the drivers before putting the last side on? (I know you don't have the drivers, just asking for future buyers).

Easier, yes probably so. It's not difficult though. There is already a hole for the speaker wire to run through and all you really have to do is mount it and screw the driver in. Not hard at all even with the panel on. If you put the drivers in first then put the panel on you'll be waiting for the glue to dry before you can play it. I'd rather wait till the glue dries so if there's any excess glue that leaks you can clean it up before putting the drivers in. No glue on the drivers is good.
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post #818 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 02:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilsonL View Post

So yours is actually slightly wider than posted prior , which i liked better.

final dimensions, 60"x42"x16"
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post17392542


Will the current version any different or remaining at 44"?

Changing the dimensions will change the sound so I don't think they will be changing.
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post #819 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 03:06 PM
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Looks like that was fun to build!

As whumpf asked, are there access panels on both sides?

I'm looking at using this as a fireplace base -- can you please measure the area in the red to let me know if my fireplace will clear the access panel? It may be easier to ask you if a 40x24 fireplace will fit in the red area I guess.

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post #820 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 03:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkinmoval View Post

Brandon,

Nice job on the assembly! Wow that's a lot of screws. I bet you know why I like to build with rabbet and dado joints now. Everything "just fits". Can't wait for everything to set up and for you to get the drivers in there and start taking some measurements.

Ryan

Yeah, I'd love to do all my stuff with rabbet and dado joints. I'm not that good. I'd need a CNC to get it done like that. I'm just not that good with woodworking. That's another good thing about this. If you don't have tools to make your own DIY sub you can make this. All you need really is a power drill and some glue.
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post #821 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 03:07 PM
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This looks awesome. I'm excited. Thanks for the pics.

You'll rarely hear anyone say, "I wish I'd gotten less Sub."

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post #822 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 03:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Smith View Post

Looks like that was fun to build!

As whumpf asked, are there access panels on both sides?

I'm looking at using this as a fireplace base -- can you please measure the area in the red to let me know if my fireplace will clear the access panel? It may be easier to ask you if a 40x24 fireplace will fit in the red area I guess.


Yeah, there are access and panels for the mouth on both sides. Dimensions are about 29"x47" for the red area you wanted so you should be good. Not understanding really though. Where are you wanting to put the fireplace again?
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post #823 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

"Any chance we're going to see a kit version of the TH-SPUD????"

I'm wondering that too now.

The 11" thickness makes it feasible to build one into the bottom of my couch and use another as a riser for my 2nd row of seating.

Two TH-SPUDS are a drop in replacement for the riser under my second row (exaclty as indicated on thier site). Just can't swallow the cost. A kit version of the TH-SPUD would be great hint, hint

Allan
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post #824 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonnash View Post

Yeah, there are access and panels for the mouth on both sides. Dimensions are about 29"x47" for the red area you wanted so you should be good. Not understanding really though. Where are you wanting to put the fireplace again?

Thanks Brandon!

The fireplace base will sit right on (actually slightly inside of as I guessed dimensions) the red lines -- it's a 2-sided corner mount fireplace.

The only thing I'm kind of worried about is rattling the metal in the fireplace -- going to have to do some judicious soundproofing in between all of the metal panels.
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post #825 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonnash View Post

On to some pics...

-------------------------------------------------------------------------




Brandon

Is that an optical illusion or is the top bowed up in the middle? How is the fit of the pieces on the outside when you are all done? Veneer worthy? Do the edges line up perfectly?
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post #826 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 03:49 PM - Thread Starter
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I think that's just the angle of the pics. That's weird though. Edges line up perfectly. This was CNC cut so it's very precise. Yes veneer worthy, but that may be expensive depending on what you use. This is a LARGE sub.
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post #827 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 04:14 PM
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Brandon,I didn't read the whole thread but is this sub made for 2x 15 inch drivers? I got a pair of Classic Tempests and would like to give that a shot.

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post #828 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris View Post

Brandon,I didn't read the whole thread but is this sub made for 2x 15 inch drivers? I got a pair of Classic Tempests and would like to give that a shot.

2 x 12" drivers... like the LAB 12 that Eminence produces, only the driver that DSL has custom made has a larger voice coil and more Bl.

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post #829 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 04:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Right now the only available driver that would work with this is Danley's version of the lab12. Tom has found one other driver that will probably work, but its a good bit more expensive not making it very practical for this application. When he gives the ok on that driver either me or ricci will let everyone know what it is. He has told us, but we need to keep it to ourselves so as not to have people rushing to get it just to find out it may not work.
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post #830 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 05:04 PM
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Very clean. I <3 how easy everything went together. No guesswork.

Does the kit come with the acoustic padding and does it tell you explicitly where to put it?

What about the access panel gaskets?
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post #831 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 05:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes, yes, and yes.
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post #832 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonnash View Post

Right now the only available driver that would work with this is Danley's version of the lab12. Tom has found one other driver that will probably work, but its a good bit more expensive not making it very practical for this application. When he gives the ok on that driver either me or ricci will let everyone know what it is. He has told us, but we need to keep it to ourselves so as not to have people rushing to get it just to find out it may not work.

This is a very important point. With a tapped horn design, the driver has some very specific and somewhat unusual parameters. If you try to "roll your own", you do it to your own peril. Also Tom modeled a standard Lab sub driver in this cabinet and it doesn't work so don't waste your money on one in an attempt to save money.
By the way just for fun I did some quick SPL measurements of our DTS10 in our demo room which as a reminder is 80'x50'x14'. I wasn't trying to measure absolute maximum output but I measured at a meter using some really agressive metal music (Three Days Grace) it easily hits the upper 120dB, (126-128dB to be exact) but more importantly it has the punch of our tapped horns so there is substantial punch and attack on the top end of the sub as well as extreme extension. It will also effortlessly reproduce a 15Hz sine wave that fills the entire room, sounds kind of like a helicopter coming in for a landing.

Thanks,

Mike Hedden
Danley Sound Labs, Inc.

Thanks

Mike
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post #833 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 05:09 PM
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Did the side panels also come with tnuts/hurricane nuts already installed or did you install them?


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post #834 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 05:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mynym View Post

Did the side panels also come with tnuts/hurricane nuts already installed or did you install them?

Already installed.
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post #835 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 05:41 PM
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How does it sound without the drivers?
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post #836 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 05:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Bley View Post

How does it sound without the drivers?

Sounds hollow.
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post #837 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 05:49 PM
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Sounds hollow.

Cool I couldn't resist. Nice build! Looks like an awesome kit. Beer is good
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post #838 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 06:10 PM
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the internal panels don't appear to be pre-drilled. do the instructions suggest using self tapping screws through the side panel pre-drilled holes? i assume the side panels are pre-drilled.

for lurkers with untrained eyes, this is a very high quality design. all the stress points appear to be reinforced. all the air leakage points appear to be dadoed. this is a good...really good design.

i just hope this isn't a bait and switch. i don't care about me, but i do care about the many folks who will get excited about the possibility of having such performance at such a great pricepoint, then having it pulled on them.

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #839 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 06:46 PM
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Cool stuff Brandon.... that thing looks wicked

Your gunna have a monster on your hands.... I have no doubt Danley being the company they are will continue to provide such great products like this, especially for the DIY community...
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post #840 of 10055 Old 11-07-2009, 06:54 PM
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Mike (or Ivan or Tom),

If I use the DTS10 as a base for a 40"W x 24"D fireplace that fits within the red lines of the below pic, do you foresee any issues with having the mouth exit in front of the fireplace? What is the likelihood that I will experience problems with excessive vibration of the fireplace's metal/glass panels?

I don't want to vibrate the gas line loose and blow my house up.

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