Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by penngray View Post

two behind your screen would be INCREDIBLE!!!!!!

Penn, I was thinking about 3 or 4

But 2 would be a good start.

How many dbs do you usually get with room gain? It's around 10-20db depending on the room, right? That would mean, you can expect about 130-140db @ 11hz @ 1m. Holy monkey!!

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post #62 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbuudo07 View Post

Penn, I was thinking about 3 or 4

But 2 would be a good start.

How many dbs do you usually get with room gain? It's around 10-20db depending on the room, right? That would mean, you can expect about 130-140db @ 11hz @ 1m. Holy monkey!!

Only if its a very small room, like the size of a car

normal HT rooms might get 6dB of gain.


3 or 4??

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post #63 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbuudo07 View Post

Penn, I was thinking about 3 or 4

But 2 would be a good start.

How many dbs do you usually get with room gain? It's around 10-20db depending on the room, right? That would mean, you can expect about 130-140db @ 11hz @ 1m. Holy monkey!!

I know that feeling

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Speakers- DIY mini arrays all channels.
subs 2 XXX ported SLLT.
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post #64 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by penngray View Post

Only if its a very small room, like the size of a car

normal HT rooms might get 6dB of gain.


3 or 4??

Ha haa! Ok. So the numbers dip to 126db @ 11hz @ 1m. Still pretty amazing. With 3 of them co-located, I could have that at my listening position

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post #65 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 06:55 AM - Thread Starter
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When we had the th50 in my room (4000+ cubic feet) it was peaking at nearly 130 db. That's no small feat, but consider what it can do outside, then think about this...we estimate it was only getting between 30-100 watts when it was hitting that level.
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post #66 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 06:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

I know that feeling

Ha haa! Now that you're helping others build rooms, you're spreading the joy too

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post #67 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonnash View Post

When we had the th50 in my room (4000+ cubic feet) it was peaking at nearly 130 db. That's no small feat, but consider what it can do outside, then think about this...we estimate it was only getting between 30-100 watts when it was hitting that level.

Really!? This was during movie demo material, correct? Which movie?

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post #68 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 07:03 AM
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Just to clarify...I was told that the final cab is these dimensions by Tom.

60"x42"x16"

The width keeps being noted as different values, which probably wouldn't matter for most, but it does for me . This means that you can stack them 2 high in about 7ft give or take for fitting under those low ceilings. 4 would make a nice 10ft wide by 7ft tall and 16" deep wall of subwoofage behind a screen.

What about that possible price point quoted by Ivan for the kit?



Mr. Hedden,

I'm looking forward to your impressions of the new toys. Your familiarity with the TH50's and I assume many other high output bass devices means that if you like it, everyone else probably will too.
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post #69 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 07:10 AM
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This means that you can stack them 2 high in about 7ft give or take for fitting under those low ceilings. 4 would make a nice 10ft wide by 7ft tall and 16" deep wall of subwoofage behind a screen.

4 would be sick! but its cool they are only 16" wide!!

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post #70 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 07:12 AM
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Ricci, is the exit like it is on the Spud, where it bends over two parts of the corner? Wouldn't stacking them vertically on the 42" side block half of the exit? If not then this is perfection!

What will this bad boy weigh? About 200-250lbs?

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post #71 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbuudo07 View Post

Ricci, is the exit like it is on the Spud, where it bends over two parts of the corner? Wouldn't stacking them vertically on the 42" side block half of the exit? If not then this is perfection!

What will this bad boy weigh? About 200-250lbs?

Huh? Not sure I follow you on the spud exit. It is changeable between firing out the end and firing out the side. Either, or. Not both. This guy firing out the side will not be obstructed in any way and you could probably run the exits in the 4 corners, or all in the middle might be worth trying.

I'd guess it'll be atleast 250lbs finished with all of that wood and the 2 drivers. Don't know at this point.
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post #72 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 07:27 AM
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Ok, sorry. The picture on the website of the Spud looks like it's on both sides. My bad.

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post #73 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 08:22 AM - Thread Starter
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I just thought about this, but will we need some large clamps to hold this together while the glue dries or will the screws hold it together? I will need to find some very large clamps if they are needed.
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post #74 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 08:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricci View Post

Just to clarify...I was told that the final cab is these dimensions by Tom.

60"x42"x16"

Is that 60" length or height or you could place it either way? I'm kinda confused.

When can we expect the final details on pricing/graphs etc on these?
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post #75 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Decadent_Spectre View Post

Is that 60" length or height or you could place it either way? I'm kinda confused.

When can we expect the final details on pricing/graphs etc on these?

There is a link/picture on the last page.

60" is the length, 42" is the height and its only 16" deep.

Think of it as a big DLP TV

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post #76 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbuudo07 View Post

WHOA!! Are you saying that the whole kit, with drivers, amplifier and delivery, should cost less than $2500?

Well, to get an idea, LAB12's cost 150/ea from partsexpress, so the modified Lab12's probably aren't going to be crazy high.
An EP2500 is ~300.00.
From there all you need is wood and shipping.
I would hope wood and shipping would be less than $1800.00!!

YID DIY
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post #77 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by penngray View Post

There is a link/picture on the last page.

60" is the length, 42" is the height and its only 16" deep.

Think of it as a big DLP TV

How did I miss that!

Assume we can turn it and put it up with 42" length and 60" height instead, can't see any problems as the mouth would still be open. Should work either way.
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post #78 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Looneybomber View Post

Well, to get an idea, LAB12's cost 150/ea from partsexpress, so the modified Lab12's probably aren't going to be crazy high.
An EP2500 is ~300.00.
From there all you need is wood and shipping.
I would hope wood and shipping would be less than $1800.00!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver View Post

The full kit (you can buy just the wood) including loudspeakers, should come in well under 1K.

I would hope so considering what Ivan said.
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post #79 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 09:38 AM
 
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Originally Posted by brandonnash View Post

Hey mike, its got a corner opening like the spud so if it were turned with the large side up it would still keep the exit in a corner. I am guessing that's what you're asking, but if you are talking about laying it flat on its back to make it 16" tall then I am not sure of the best placement.

I have a chase outside my room located on the center of my front wall. The inside dimensions of the chase are 51" wide and 30' deep. This means the only way I could place the sub is on end. The side facing the room would be 42" wide and 60" tall. Just checking to see if the exit port would be blocked. Also I only have about 15" of height below my horizontal masking when it is set to 1.78. This means not only would the port have to be on one side, but the top of the sound port could not be taller than 15". From looking at the picture it looks like it might fit as long as the sound port is not taller than 15" when you set the sub on it's side.
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post #80 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by brandonnash View Post

I just thought about this, but will we need some large clamps to hold this together while the glue dries or will the screws hold it together? I will need to find some very large clamps if they are needed.

You should not need any clamps. If you use deep thread screws (preferably with a square drive) they should pull it together nicely. With the joints be rabbits and dados-the whole thing will "stay together" while you put it together.

We will probably have "extras" (like a bag of proper screws) and such available.

The kits will come with the T nuts installed-so you won't need those.

Here is what you need to tell your wife: Honey-look what I got for Christmas-a jig saw puzzle-Come on kids-let's put it together!

A puzzle of the adult variety.

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post #81 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mjg100 View Post

I have a chase outside my room located on the center of my front wall. The inside dimensions of the chase are 51" wide and 30' deep. This means the only way I could place the sub is on end. The side facing the room would be 42" wide and 60" tall. Just checking to see if the exit port would be blocked. Also I only have about 15" of height below my horizontal masking when it is set to 1.78. This means not only would the port have to be on one side, but the top of the sound port could not be taller than 15". From looking at the picture it looks like it might fit as long as the sound port is not taller than 15" when you set the sub on it's side.


Here is a view of insides.

The exit can be either on the front or the back. It is NOT the area where the jackplate is.
LL

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post #82 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver View Post


A puzzle of the adult variety.


We are still talking about speakers right, or am I in the wrong forum?


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post #83 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 12:53 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver View Post

Here is a view of insides.

The exit can be either on the front or the back. It is NOT the area where the jackplate is.

If you turned it on it's end so that it was 60" high, how high off the floor would the top of the opening be?
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post #84 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjg100 View Post

If you turned it on it's end so that it was 60" high, how high off the floor would the top of the opening be?


Looks like somewhere near 20" from the 3D model. On it's side it looks like it'd be right in the 15" area.
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post #85 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 02:27 PM
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If you turned it on it's end so that it was 60" high, how high off the floor would the top of the opening be?

19.5" THe bottom would be 3/4" from the floor

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post #86 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 02:28 PM
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I have that itch again. I am thinking of comparing a few subs, all around the same price. I want to compare my subs with the eD dual 13av.2's, the Maelstrom 21, and this kit.

Marantz 7702 Atmos
Outlaw 7140 and 5000
Speakers- DIY mini arrays all channels.
subs 2 XXX ported SLLT.
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post #87 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

I have that itch again. I am thinking of comparing a few subs, all around the same price. I want to compare my subs with the eD dual 13av.2's, the Maelstrom 21, and this kit.

That should be an interesting battle. Your body will get a good tenderizing

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post #88 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 02:44 PM
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Guys, you're freaking out unnecessarily over the shipping cost. Just plugging in some WAG size and weight numbers, it looks like it would be around $200 +/- to ship the flat-pack to Seattle which is about as far away as you can get from Atlanta. If the wood + drivers is $1K + shipping, you should be well under $2K all-in (including a good amp and an EQ which most have already so they don't really count).

http://www.freightcenter.com/QuickQuote.aspx

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post #89 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by brandonnash View Post

Just to tease a little more, this is the outdoor measurement. I think it looks VERY good!! Keep in mind this was one of their first measurements, but still looks like this will kick pretty well.

...

It's a little hard to read, but the corner frequency at the bottom is 10.9 hz at 89.8 db. 25hz is almost right at 100 db and up at the 80-100 hz range it's in the 110 db range.

I was just noticing that your window was set to 2Hz resolution and was curious if the posted plot is fully representing the true performance of the unit? The reason behind the question is that you commonly see some craziness starting to happen at around the 2 octave bandwidth point and this is showing easily 3 octaves of usable bandwidth. Also, at 2Hz resolution, a lot of the lowend could be the windowing...

The impedance plot is "only" 6.5Hz resolution and is showing some rounded spikes at places that I would expect more of a suckout...was just curious if the shape of the impedance spikes was really that rounded, or if it also was a result of the windowing function used.

I hope this doesn't come across as doubting the numbers...just trying to understand better what has been created. It looks pretty impressive so far and I can appreciate the difficulty in getting high resolution measurements at lower frequencies.

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post #90 of 10274 Old 10-21-2009, 03:16 PM
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"Something that's 700L tuned to 11Hz to keep up with it would be at least a Mal-X 21 with dual 21" PRs 38mm. Mal-X 21 has 2X more power, +3dB there. That's the infra - at high freqs the Danley will have a home run."

Good point on the impedance.

But regarding the infra, I think the DTS-10 still wins, discounting whatever correction needs to be made between the measurement conditions and WinISD.

At 700 L the best I could get w/either driver and any qty of them was 84 dB.
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