Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit - Page 338 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10111 of 10137 Old 02-15-2015, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by grap3 View Post
All right, finally fixing my DTS-10. I'm getting two LMS drivers (unless I hear objections) and I have the actual box itself and an EP4000 amp. What else do I need and how do I set up everything correctly? If this thing breaks again, I'm taking an axe to it and posting the video.
Have you applied the filters that DSL recommended? How did you manage to kill it? I have mine running off of a QSC 4050HD and have never hurt it.
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post #10112 of 10137 Old 02-15-2015, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by soundemon View Post
I'd Also build another one of these if I could find a kit.
As you already have one and if you are good at woodworking you could use the first as a pattern to build the second... then go with some of the alternate drivers that have been mentioned in this thread.
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post #10113 of 10137 Old 02-15-2015, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Al Sherwood View Post
As you already have one and if you are good at woodworking you could use the first as a pattern to build the second... then go with some of the alternate drivers that have been mentioned in this thread.
If I could I absolutely would, and put the LMS-12s in there. Sadly I sold mine a few years back. and even if I still had it, its all closed up - no way to measure the lengths and angles etc.
When I first got the kit I had intended to map out all the internals just in case I felt like building a second from scratch. But then I got impatient and just put it together without doing any of that. Mistake #2 ! sadface.

I think we're the demons.
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post #10114 of 10137 Old 02-15-2015, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by soundemon View Post
If I could I absolutely would, and put the LMS-12s in there. Sadly I sold mine a few years back. and even if I still had it, its all closed up - no way to measure the lengths and angles etc.
When I first got the kit I had intended to map out all the internals just in case I felt like building a second from scratch. But then I got impatient and just put it together without doing any of that. Mistake #2 ! sadface.
Ahhh yes, but then at least you are not like me with audio gear from 30 year ago still hanging about just in case!

Just before the last DIY sale by Dnaley there were a few available on places like Craigs list and the like, no real deals in fact some people wanted more for them then the new kit was worth. Still worth a check though if you could find one close by.
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post #10115 of 10137 Old 02-15-2015, 09:00 AM
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Anyone using a QSC DSP-30 with there DTS-10? I just ordered one and am trying to mess with the software while waiting for the unit to arrive. Trying to set a hi-pass filter at 12hz to not bottom the Danleys but it won't go below 20. Am I doing something wrong? Any other suggestions?

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post #10116 of 10137 Old 02-15-2015, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by mcallister View Post
...Trying to set a hi-pass filter at 12hz to not bottom the Danleys but it won't go below 20...
Try combining a 20Hz low pass shelf (set to +6dB gain or so) with a 20Hz Butterworth 24dB/oct high pass filter.
The rising response of the low pass shelf below 20Hz should counteract the falling response of the high pass filter below 20Hz.
This should keep the output relatively flat until the low pass shelf reaches its gain setting, at which point the high pass filter will take over and start attenuating the infrasonic frequencies below it.
The net affect should be similar to having a high pass filter set to a frequency lower than 20Hz.
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post #10117 of 10137 Old 02-15-2015, 02:39 PM
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[QUOTE=stereo2.0;31801305]Try combining a 20Hz low pass shelf (set to +6dB gain or so) with a 20Hz Butterworth 24dB/oct high pass filter.
The rising response of the low pass shelf below 20Hz should counteract the falling response of the high pass filter below 20Hz.
This should keep the output relatively flat until the low pass shelf reaches its gain setting, at which point the high pass filter will take over and start attenuating the infrasonic frequencies below it.
The net affect should be similar to having a high pass filter set to a frequency lower than 20Hz.[/QUOTE

Thanks! I'll give it a try.

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post #10118 of 10137 Old 02-21-2015, 03:39 AM
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I have my Danley dts-10 placed near field with the horn openings co-located. After running audyssey xt32 it has them at 5.4 feet away.

Do I need to add more distance to the delay setting in my processor? Was reading 8.23 feet makes up for the length of the horn?

The actual distance from mic to horn opening is 4 feet.

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post #10119 of 10137 Old 02-22-2015, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mcallister View Post
...After running audyssey xt32 it has them at 5.4 feet away. Do I need to add more distance to the delay setting in my processor?...
Don't rely on Audyssey's results, my Pioneer's MCACC program couldn't get the distance right either.

Just know that one side of both drivers is only 4 feet away from the opening, whereas the other side (whose output is much stronger) is 25 feet in length.
I add the 25 foot dimension to the distance between the speaker opening and the listening position to make my bass & midrange sound more coherent.
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post #10120 of 10137 Old 02-23-2015, 02:40 AM
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Originally Posted by stereo2.0 View Post
Don't rely on Audyssey's results, my Pioneer's MCACC program couldn't get the distance right either.

Just know that one side of both drivers is only 4 feet away from the opening, whereas the other side (whose output is much stronger) is 25 feet in length.
I add the 25 foot dimension to the distance between the speaker opening and the listening position to make my bass & midrange sound more coherent.
Thanks.

So you add 25ft to what distance MCACC is already setting your subs at?

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post #10121 of 10137 Old 02-23-2015, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mcallister View Post
So you add 25ft to what distance MCACC is already setting your subs at?
No, I ignored the MCACC reading altogether.
I just added 25 feet to the tape measured distance between the horn opening and my listening position.
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post #10122 of 10137 Old 02-24-2015, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by stereo2.0 View Post
No, I ignored the MCACC reading altogether.
I just added 25 feet to the tape measured distance between the horn opening and my listening position.

Got it thanks! I will give it a try tonight.

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post #10123 of 10137 Old 02-25-2015, 02:10 PM
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post #10124 of 10137 Old 02-25-2015, 03:17 PM
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THE LMS 12" is on sale at PE and there is a discount code you can apply for anyone looking for new drivers.

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #10125 of 10137 Old 02-25-2015, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mcallister View Post
...Do I need to add more distance to the delay setting in my processor? ...
Sorry, I forgot to ask whether you were using a power amplifier with a built-in DSP, or a standalone DSP to equalize the sub.
If you are, then you'll have to increase your distance setting to compensate for the extra delay that the DSP introduces.
See if the DSP manual states how much delay it adds, then add another foot of distance for every Milli-second delay that the DSP adds to the signal.
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post #10126 of 10137 Old 02-26-2015, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by stereo2.0 View Post
Sorry, I forgot to ask whether you were using a power amplifier with a built-in DSP, or a standalone DSP to equalize the sub.
If you are, then you'll have to increase your distance setting to compensate for the extra delay that the DSP introduces.
See if the DSP manual states how much delay it adds, then add another foot of distance for every Milli-second delay that the DSP adds to the signal.
I am using a qsc-dsp30. I'll try and find the delay settings.

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post #10127 of 10137 Old 02-26-2015, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
THE LMS 12" is on sale at PE and there is a discount code you can apply for anyone looking for new drivers.
What's the discount code?

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post #10128 of 10137 Old 03-30-2015, 02:52 PM
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Anybody have a DTS-10 or two they want to sell?

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post #10129 of 10137 Old 04-07-2015, 04:19 PM
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Beginning to feel like I'm talking to myself in here.

I added some no rez type material from parts express to the horn exit and around the speakers in place of the crappy foam that came with the kit.

In doing so I decided to check all the drivers and noticed one is "rubbing" as I give it the push test.

I'd love to just replace all 4 drivers with LMS12 however I'm not sure I want to spend that much.

Has anyone actually ever heard or tested the DTS-10's with the Alpine drivers mentioned?

Does anyone know how much a replacement driver is from Danley?

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post #10130 of 10137 Old 04-07-2015, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcallister View Post
Anybody have a DTS-10 or two they want to sell?
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Originally Posted by mcallister View Post
Beginning to feel like I'm talking to myself in here.

I added some no rez type material from parts express to the horn exit and around the speakers in place of the crappy foam that came with the kit.

In doing so I decided to check all the drivers and noticed one is "rubbing" as I give it the push test.

I'd love to just replace all 4 drivers with LMS12 however I'm not sure I want to spend that much.

Has anyone actually ever heard or tested the DTS-10's with the Alpine drivers mentioned?

Does anyone know how much a replacement driver is from Danley?

Just so you feel alone talking to yourself...


So I thought that you were looking to buy some kits because you didn't have any...but you have two?


Did you send an email to Danley about replacement driver availability and prices? I think you will find they are not cheap either!

Al
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post #10131 of 10137 Old 04-07-2015, 06:39 PM
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...Has anyone actually ever heard or tested the DTS-10's with the Alpine drivers mentioned?...Does anyone know how much a replacement driver is from Danley?
I replaced both my Danley drivers with the Alpine SWR-12D2 for ~$200 CAD (each) because one of the stock drivers had started to rub against the voice coil too.
My quote from Danley for a replacement stock driver was:
"The driver used in the DTS10 kit is the Eminence 122345 and the cost to replace the driver is $330.88 + shipping."
(No indication as to whether that was in USD or CAD)

I've since had my stock Danley driver repaired locally, but I've kept the Alpines in the cabinet because they out-perform the stock units where they were their weakest. (30 - 70Hz)
Although the Alpines are about 1 dB less efficient than stock, they still have more output than my house can handle, plus the 30 - 70Hz band has more capability now than it ever had before.
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post #10132 of 10137 Old 04-08-2015, 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Al Sherwood View Post
Just so you feel alone talking to yourself...


So I thought that you were looking to buy some kits because you didn't have any...but you have two?


Did you send an email to Danley about replacement driver availability and prices? I think you will find they are not cheap either!

I do already have two

I sent an email yesterday and am awaiting there reply.

I may just go with the Alpines. Amazon has them for $149 each. With the Danley replacement in the $330 range I'd think I'd like to try a new driver.

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post #10133 of 10137 Old 04-08-2015, 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by stereo2.0 View Post
I replaced both my Danley drivers with the Alpine SWR-12D2 for ~$200 CAD (each) because one of the stock drivers had started to rub against the voice coil too.
My quote from Danley for a replacement stock driver was:
"The driver used in the DTS10 kit is the Eminence 122345 and the cost to replace the driver is $330.88 + shipping."
(No indication as to whether that was in USD or CAD)

I've since had my stock Danley driver repaired locally, but I've kept the Alpines in the cabinet because they out-perform the stock units where they were their weakest. (30 - 70Hz)
Although the Alpines are about 1 dB less efficient than stock, they still have more output than my house can handle, plus the 30 - 70Hz band has more capability now than it ever had before.
Are your alpine danleys wired for a 4ohm or 2ohm load? With that $330 price tag I think I would just try the Alpine.

is this the correct alpine driver:
http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SWR-12D...pine+type+r+12

I am local to Parts Express and they have the TC drivers in stock at $330 ish. I wonder what benefit the TC's have over the Alpines?

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post #10134 of 10137 Old 04-08-2015, 06:05 PM
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Are your alpine danleys wired for a 4ohm or 2ohm load?.....I wonder what benefit the TC's have over the Alpines?
Your link is for the exact same drivers that I bought.
They have dual 2 Ohm voice coils per driver and I wired them in series to mimic the 4 Ohm stock Danley drivers.

The TC Sounds LMS-R 12's have been thoroughly tested at Data-Bass.com here.
I think they're even less efficient than the Alpines, but they have much more displacement capability so adding more power makes their max SPL output levels quite a bit higher than the Danleys.
People who've switched to the LMS-R's say they're happy they did it.
Unfortunately Parts Express was out of LMS-R's stock when I needed them so I bought the Apline's. I'm still happy I did though.

Edit: Oh, I just remembered that the Alpines are a little taller than the stock Danley driver dimensions.
That means the driver whose magnet will drop down into the corner of the cabinet will not sit flush on the baffle anymore.
I solved that problem by taking one of the spare speaker gaskets that came in the box that the Danley drivers were shipped in and placed it underneath the mounting ring to make the speaker sit a little higher.
You'll have to do the same and can probably get a spare gasket from a nearby speaker repair store for very little cash.

The Data-Bass.com article on the TC Sounds LMS-R driver retrofit stated they needed to sit much higher, so they cut a wooden ring out of 3/4" plywood to raise it high enough to fit in the corner.

Last edited by stereo2.0; 04-08-2015 at 10:03 PM. Reason: Dimensional differences.
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post #10135 of 10137 Old 04-09-2015, 03:16 AM
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Your link is for the exact same drivers that I bought.
They have dual 2 Ohm voice coils per driver and I wired them in series to mimic the 4 Ohm stock Danley drivers.

The TC Sounds LMS-R 12's have been thoroughly tested at Data-Bass.com here.
I think they're even less efficient than the Alpines, but they have much more displacement capability so adding more power makes their max SPL output levels quite a bit higher than the Danleys.
People who've switched to the LMS-R's say they're happy they did it.
Unfortunately Parts Express was out of LMS-R's stock when I needed them so I bought the Apline's. I'm still happy I did though.

Edit: Oh, I just remembered that the Alpines are a little taller than the stock Danley driver dimensions.
That means the driver whose magnet will drop down into the corner of the cabinet will not sit flush on the baffle anymore.
I solved that problem by taking one of the spare speaker gaskets that came in the box that the Danley drivers were shipped in and placed it underneath the mounting ring to make the speaker sit a little higher.
You'll have to do the same and can probably get a spare gasket from a nearby speaker repair store for very little cash.

The Data-Bass.com article on the TC Sounds LMS-R driver retrofit stated they needed to sit much higher, so they cut a wooden ring out of 3/4" plywood to raise it high enough to fit in the corner.
I have seen the comparisons on Data Bass of the two and the TC's do look pretty damn good!

You mentioned the Alpine is better then the stock Danley driver in the 30-70Hz band. How does it perform lower? Is the 12Hz HPF inherent to the design of the horn or does this change if using the Alpine or TC driver?

I'm leaning towards the TC's although my budget much prefers the Alpines.

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post #10136 of 10137 Old 04-09-2015, 07:36 PM
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...You mentioned the Alpine is better then the stock Danley driver in the 30-70Hz band. How does it perform lower?
Is the 12Hz HPF inherent to the design of the horn or does this change if using the Alpine or TC driver?....
It's a little quieter at lower frequencies because it's ~1dB less efficient, but otherwise it performs the same.
The frequency response is a little different too because I had to readjust the settings on my miniDSP to get a flat response again.
At 30Hz it can definitely put out more level because it has more excursion capability than the stock driver.

I think this cabinet will unload any installed speaker below 12-14Hz due to its horn path length.
Sure you can get more output from higher excursion drivers at the lowest frequencies, but they're still running out of headroom just like the stock drivers would.
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post #10137 of 10137 Old Today, 01:29 PM
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ended up ordering 4 of the alpine drivers. I wouldn't mind adding a couple more DTS-10s and it just wouldn't be feasible for the wallet and other future upgrades if I were to go with the LMS-R.

Thanks for the help stereo2.0!

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