Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit - Page 338 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10111 of 10127 Old 02-15-2015, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by grap3 View Post
All right, finally fixing my DTS-10. I'm getting two LMS drivers (unless I hear objections) and I have the actual box itself and an EP4000 amp. What else do I need and how do I set up everything correctly? If this thing breaks again, I'm taking an axe to it and posting the video.
Have you applied the filters that DSL recommended? How did you manage to kill it? I have mine running off of a QSC 4050HD and have never hurt it.
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post #10112 of 10127 Old 02-15-2015, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by soundemon View Post
I'd Also build another one of these if I could find a kit.
As you already have one and if you are good at woodworking you could use the first as a pattern to build the second... then go with some of the alternate drivers that have been mentioned in this thread.
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post #10113 of 10127 Old 02-15-2015, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Al Sherwood View Post
As you already have one and if you are good at woodworking you could use the first as a pattern to build the second... then go with some of the alternate drivers that have been mentioned in this thread.
If I could I absolutely would, and put the LMS-12s in there. Sadly I sold mine a few years back. and even if I still had it, its all closed up - no way to measure the lengths and angles etc.
When I first got the kit I had intended to map out all the internals just in case I felt like building a second from scratch. But then I got impatient and just put it together without doing any of that. Mistake #2 ! sadface.

I think we're the demons.
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post #10114 of 10127 Old 02-15-2015, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by soundemon View Post
If I could I absolutely would, and put the LMS-12s in there. Sadly I sold mine a few years back. and even if I still had it, its all closed up - no way to measure the lengths and angles etc.
When I first got the kit I had intended to map out all the internals just in case I felt like building a second from scratch. But then I got impatient and just put it together without doing any of that. Mistake #2 ! sadface.
Ahhh yes, but then at least you are not like me with audio gear from 30 year ago still hanging about just in case!

Just before the last DIY sale by Dnaley there were a few available on places like Craigs list and the like, no real deals in fact some people wanted more for them then the new kit was worth. Still worth a check though if you could find one close by.
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post #10115 of 10127 Old 02-15-2015, 10:00 AM
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Anyone using a QSC DSP-30 with there DTS-10? I just ordered one and am trying to mess with the software while waiting for the unit to arrive. Trying to set a hi-pass filter at 12hz to not bottom the Danleys but it won't go below 20. Am I doing something wrong? Any other suggestions?

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post #10116 of 10127 Old 02-15-2015, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by mcallister View Post
...Trying to set a hi-pass filter at 12hz to not bottom the Danleys but it won't go below 20...
Try combining a 20Hz low pass shelf (set to +6dB gain or so) with a 20Hz Butterworth 24dB/oct high pass filter.
The rising response of the low pass shelf below 20Hz should counteract the falling response of the high pass filter below 20Hz.
This should keep the output relatively flat until the low pass shelf reaches its gain setting, at which point the high pass filter will take over and start attenuating the infrasonic frequencies below it.
The net affect should be similar to having a high pass filter set to a frequency lower than 20Hz.
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post #10117 of 10127 Old 02-15-2015, 03:39 PM
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[QUOTE=stereo2.0;31801305]Try combining a 20Hz low pass shelf (set to +6dB gain or so) with a 20Hz Butterworth 24dB/oct high pass filter.
The rising response of the low pass shelf below 20Hz should counteract the falling response of the high pass filter below 20Hz.
This should keep the output relatively flat until the low pass shelf reaches its gain setting, at which point the high pass filter will take over and start attenuating the infrasonic frequencies below it.
The net affect should be similar to having a high pass filter set to a frequency lower than 20Hz.[/QUOTE

Thanks! I'll give it a try.

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post #10118 of 10127 Old 02-21-2015, 04:39 AM
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I have my Danley dts-10 placed near field with the horn openings co-located. After running audyssey xt32 it has them at 5.4 feet away.

Do I need to add more distance to the delay setting in my processor? Was reading 8.23 feet makes up for the length of the horn?

The actual distance from mic to horn opening is 4 feet.

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post #10119 of 10127 Old 02-22-2015, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mcallister View Post
...After running audyssey xt32 it has them at 5.4 feet away. Do I need to add more distance to the delay setting in my processor?...
Don't rely on Audyssey's results, my Pioneer's MCACC program couldn't get the distance right either.

Just know that one side of both drivers is only 4 feet away from the opening, whereas the other side (whose output is much stronger) is 25 feet in length.
I add the 25 foot dimension to the distance between the speaker opening and the listening position to make my bass & midrange sound more coherent.
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post #10120 of 10127 Old 02-23-2015, 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by stereo2.0 View Post
Don't rely on Audyssey's results, my Pioneer's MCACC program couldn't get the distance right either.

Just know that one side of both drivers is only 4 feet away from the opening, whereas the other side (whose output is much stronger) is 25 feet in length.
I add the 25 foot dimension to the distance between the speaker opening and the listening position to make my bass & midrange sound more coherent.
Thanks.

So you add 25ft to what distance MCACC is already setting your subs at?

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post #10121 of 10127 Old 02-23-2015, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mcallister View Post
So you add 25ft to what distance MCACC is already setting your subs at?
No, I ignored the MCACC reading altogether.
I just added 25 feet to the tape measured distance between the horn opening and my listening position.
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post #10122 of 10127 Old 02-24-2015, 04:06 AM
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Originally Posted by stereo2.0 View Post
No, I ignored the MCACC reading altogether.
I just added 25 feet to the tape measured distance between the horn opening and my listening position.

Got it thanks! I will give it a try tonight.

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post #10123 of 10127 Old Yesterday, 03:10 PM
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post #10124 of 10127 Old Yesterday, 04:17 PM
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THE LMS 12" is on sale at PE and there is a discount code you can apply for anyone looking for new drivers.

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"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #10125 of 10127 Old Yesterday, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mcallister View Post
...Do I need to add more distance to the delay setting in my processor? ...
Sorry, I forgot to ask whether you were using a power amplifier with a built-in DSP, or a standalone DSP to equalize the sub.
If you are, then you'll have to increase your distance setting to compensate for the extra delay that the DSP introduces.
See if the DSP manual states how much delay it adds, then add another foot of distance for every Milli-second delay that the DSP adds to the signal.
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post #10126 of 10127 Unread Today, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by stereo2.0 View Post
Sorry, I forgot to ask whether you were using a power amplifier with a built-in DSP, or a standalone DSP to equalize the sub.
If you are, then you'll have to increase your distance setting to compensate for the extra delay that the DSP introduces.
See if the DSP manual states how much delay it adds, then add another foot of distance for every Milli-second delay that the DSP adds to the signal.
I am using a qsc-dsp30. I'll try and find the delay settings.

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post #10127 of 10127 Unread Today, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
THE LMS 12" is on sale at PE and there is a discount code you can apply for anyone looking for new drivers.
What's the discount code?

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