Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit - Page 342 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 12-08-2015, 06:20 AM
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Hey guys help me out here if you could - I'm looking to buy a set of alpine drivers as spares or swap ins for my dts, and have found a pair at a good price. They are called swr 12D2, but they have silver cones and large logo. All the ones I see listed have the black cones and small logo. Can these be used?

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Old 12-08-2015, 09:43 AM
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The silver are the older models. They should still work, but not as advanced design. The silver cone models still float around for less $ but are obsolete. Supposedly this is when the lower SWS models got uprated and were so good they were better than the flagship SWR series. So the SWR was revamped again with improved motor design and the new black cone.


http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-SWR-12D2.html

Alpines white paper is known to be conservative figures especially "sensitivity" efficiency figures. The most common one when some compare to the lab12 design.
The Alpine SWR sensitivity actually calculates just under 91dB/2.83V/1M. By the t/s parameters, sensitivity calculates out to 90.8dB/2.83V/1M.
In the same size box, the Alpine should be capable of providing at least 3dB more output given enough power. Xmax is 36mm. As they say, no replacement for displacement.

"I should really see what dB levels I'm pushing. Long as it can't foam my beer during a movie we are ok "

Last edited by autox320; 12-08-2015 at 10:08 AM.
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Old 12-08-2015, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autox320 View Post
The silver are the older models. They should still work, but not as advanced design. The silver cone models still float around for less $ but are obsolete. Supposedly this is when the lower SWS models got uprated and were so good they were better than the flagship SWR series. So the SWR was revamped again with improved motor design and the new black cone.


http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-SWR-12D2.html

Alpines white paper is known to be conservative figures especially "sensitivity" efficiency figures. The most common one when some compare to the lab12 design.
The Alpine SWR sensitivity actually calculates just under 91dB/2.83V/1M. By the t/s parameters, sensitivity calculates out to 90.8dB/2.83V/1M.
In the same size box, the Alpine should be capable of providing at least 3dB more output given enough power. Xmax is 36mm. As they say, no replacement for displacement.
Brilliant! Exactly what I needed to know. I'll hold out for the black cones. Thanks!

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Old 01-03-2016, 01:43 PM
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Love the built-in approach! I wish I had known I was using DTS10s before building my room. That said, front wall works great for me.

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Old 01-28-2016, 05:22 PM
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I do

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcallister View Post
Anybody have a DTS-10 or two they want to sell?
I have a Danley DTS-10 I'm willing to sell!
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Old 01-29-2016, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grap3 View Post
I have a Danley DTS-10 I'm willing to sell!
Where are you located?

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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Old 02-19-2016, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mani View Post
How does EP4000 give more power with much smaller and lighter power suppley? Gain on both units is fairly similar (32 vs 34 db) , then how does 1000W vs 4000W matter? I am just trying to understandthe numbers?
My friend has couple of crown XLS 5000 amps which he is willing to trade with my pair of XPA-1's . But crown is rated at 5000W bridged. Will that damage the drivers? which is better option? I understand they are overkill, but I already have them and I bought XPA used .

(PS: I have two DTS10 kits - so need amps to power both)

Thanks
Mani
Mani, what amps did you end up using, and if you used the xpa-1 how did you like it?
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Old 03-15-2016, 06:46 PM
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Sorry for delayed response . I was not following this thread. I ended up using QSC 4050 and they provided more than enough power.
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Old 06-06-2016, 10:44 AM
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Does anyone know where I can find a crossover that will do a 10 Hz HP @ 24 dB/Butterworth for the DTS-10 sub? Most of the crossovers I have looked at stop at 20Hz.

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Old 06-06-2016, 11:38 AM
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Can use a dcx2496 and manipulate the filters to extend the HPF below 20.

How to extend the high pass filter below 20hz in DCX2496


A real cheap way to at least have something is a 6db/oct with a properly sized capacitor inline of the positive to either the amp or BFD1124p. For instance your using unbalanced rca from the receiver. Splice in a 0.47uF inline of the center lead as it plugs into your BFD1124 (30k ohm input impedance). This gives a 6db/oct slope at 11Hz.
http://www.apicsllc.com/apics/Misc/filter2.html
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"I should really see what dB levels I'm pushing. Long as it can't foam my beer during a movie we are ok "
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Old 06-07-2016, 03:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post
Does anyone know where I can find a crossover that will do a 10 Hz HP @ 24 dB/Butterworth for the DTS-10 sub? Most of the crossovers I have looked at stop at 20Hz.
Minidsp 2x4 will do that for you. I use Velodyne SMS-1s with mine.

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Old 06-07-2016, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by mcallister View Post
Minidsp 2x4 will do that for you. I use Velodyne SMS-1s with mine.
I have the 88M upgrade (which is supposed to give you the 2x8), and it shows it going down to 10Hz, but a HP shelf will start at 10Hz. Since the display doesn't show anything lower I am worried it won't be doing anything lower. I guess I could set it up, and run REW before and after setting the 10Hz HP to see what it does.

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Old 09-18-2016, 08:57 AM
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Sorry for the bump but I couldn't for the life remember my password. I believe there were several people interested in purchasing a home assembled DTS10 with (two dead drivers) in NW Chicagoland. I had a few PMs so I know there's some interest... but I'm also tempted to fix the thing but, as my previous post have indicated, I'm incompetent and would need some help. Is there anyone willing to offer me some support? Will pay obv. I have the box, two dead drivers, an EP4000, a Denon AVR, and an XLR cable connecting them. Everyone recommends 'TC Sounds LMS-R 12"' so I'd need a pair of those but the biggest issues would be making the necessary riser and technical setup in the home; I've got none of that equipment for EQing. I do want to hit the teens with this sub if possible... The Dark Knight is an entirely different movie and if I can't experience that again, I'm getting rid of the DTS10. Can I have people tweet me? @grap3 That's the best way to reach me tbh. Thanks for your help guys.
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Old 09-19-2016, 04:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grap2 View Post
Sorry for the bump but I couldn't for the life remember my password. I believe there were several people interested in purchasing a home assembled DTS10 with (two dead drivers) in NW Chicagoland. I had a few PMs so I know there's some interest... but I'm also tempted to fix the thing but, as my previous post have indicated, I'm incompetent and would need some help. Is there anyone willing to offer me some support? Will pay obv. I have the box, two dead drivers, an EP4000, a Denon AVR, and an XLR cable connecting them. Everyone recommends 'TC Sounds LMS-R 12"' so I'd need a pair of those but the biggest issues would be making the necessary riser and technical setup in the home; I've got none of that equipment for EQing. I do want to hit the teens with this sub if possible... The Dark Knight is an entirely different movie and if I can't experience that again, I'm getting rid of the DTS10. Can I have people tweet me? @grap3 That's the best way to reach me tbh. Thanks for your help guys.

Hey grap3; few posts back I mention using the Alpine SWR (typeR) black cone model. They fit the dts10 perfect and IMO better than a LMS-R. Pretty sure TC is out of business anyways (again). Can find the Alpines all day cheap online. I bought mine through sonicelectronix.com

Dark Knight is awesome on them. I think I mentioned DK punching us in the face

"I should really see what dB levels I'm pushing. Long as it can't foam my beer during a movie we are ok "
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Old 09-19-2016, 06:48 PM
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... They fit the dts10 perfect ...
My Alpine SWR-12D2 did not fit perfect in the corner position.
I eventually used one of the spare cork gaskets that came with the original Danley drivers to get the spacing I needed to seal the driver down air tight though.
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Old 09-20-2016, 04:23 AM
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My Alpine SWR-12D2 did not fit perfect in the corner position.
I eventually used one of the spare cork gaskets that came with the original Danley drivers to get the spacing I needed to seal the driver down air tight though.
Hmmm, I found they went in easier than the danley drivers. The danley lab is large pancake magnet and the alpine is narrower midway but a bit longer. I can't remember how I gasketed them. Maybe it's just thick enough. I did notch the brace a bit more on the facing inward drivers just in case the surround touched. I show them no mercy.

"I should really see what dB levels I'm pushing. Long as it can't foam my beer during a movie we are ok "
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Old 12-13-2016, 06:05 PM
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I was having a few issues with my DTS-10's after installing the alpine drivers in them. I tested that wiring was correct with a 9v battery and sure enough one is wired wrong.

My question is which one? In both DTS the drivers are moving the same physical direction but they are opposite each other.

If they are wired correctly should the cone move out on the driver with the magnet hidden or would that hidden magnet driver move in if wired correctly?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

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Old 12-13-2016, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mcallister View Post
...If they are wired correctly should the cone move out on the driver with the magnet hidden or would that hidden magnet driver move in if wired correctly?...
According to the instructions that came with the DTS-10, the cone should move outwards on the driver that has the magnet hidden when a positive voltage is applied to the sub. (See attached image)

However, I found that I had to invert the polarity on my Mini-DSP to match up the sub with my main speakers when it was connected this way, so I reversed the wiring compared to the instructions when I replaced my stock drivers with the Alpines.
Now it sounds good without having to invert the polarity on the Mini-DSP.
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Old 12-14-2016, 02:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stereo2.0 View Post
According to the instructions that came with the DTS-10, the cone should move outwards on the driver that has the magnet hidden when a positive voltage is applied to the sub. (See attached image)

However, I found that I had to invert the polarity on my Mini-DSP to match up the sub with my main speakers when it was connected this way, so I reversed the wiring compared to the instructions when I replaced my stock drivers with the Alpines.
Now it sounds good without having to reverse the polarity.
Thank you!

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Old 12-14-2016, 04:16 AM
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Sup guys; Merry Christmas. . . again
You know it's been awhile when your always having to change your password to login.


My cabinet(s) is wired like the instructions to a single set of bind posts on the back. Depending which way you touch the 9V to the posts can make the cones move in or out like a single speaker. They move together in the same direction is the important part. Still going here and enjoy the setup so much now I forget at times what it took to get here. It all works great and just part of weekly movie nights now. Just use the hell out of the system. I've slammed on the Alpines for several movie hours with nothing to report since the swap but awesomeness.
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Old 01-17-2017, 04:51 PM
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I have everything ready for my DTS10 build but wanted to get some last minute opinion on the sound. Building a home theater 24x12. my 5 Klipsch sound great except for the lack of lf. One friend said the DTS is incredible but lack the visceral punch of IB; all growl and no bite. Is this true?
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Old 01-17-2017, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Doc777 View Post
I have everything ready for my DTS10 build but wanted to get some last minute opinion on the sound. Building a home theater 24x12. my 5 Klipsch sound great except for the lack of lf. One friend said the DTS is incredible but lack the visceral punch of IB; all growl and no bite. Is this true?
Whhaaa? EQ and preferable EQ(danley filters are in this thread if need them; there's 4) with a HPF at 11hz. I've 2 DTS-10's in a 18x32 space. Haven't needed any additional "helper" or "filler" subs or bass shakers at the seating area since. It's all about the room and EQ. Make sure placement is good. As with an IB you can be disappointed if not in the right location. Cheapest and most effective way to find is sub playing at your seating area you'll be in and do the sub crawl to find reverse wave. My DTS are both coupled with ports right on each other and corner loaded firing from a corner facing the seat area. Some like facing the corner or wall, we did not. A dts in the space your talking about corner loaded is capable of 130db levels especially if feeding a full ep4000 amp. Think about that power/$/size ratio a minute and let it sink in. You should have people wishing to turn it down once setup right.

TH sub is like having a sealed larger sub but having efficiency of IB. IMO the TH has more in your face at full tilt, yet plays very musical and fills at the lowest volume levels. Couldn't go wrong with either if placement is there.
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Old 01-17-2017, 08:32 PM
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Obligatory drool... Everytime this thread comes up it reminds what I missed out on ha
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Old 01-17-2017, 08:38 PM
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Obligatory drool... Everytime this thread comes up it reminds what I missed out on ha

There's some good diy TH subs, especially those by lilmike. I've a picowrecker in my garage system and really happy with it. I'd imagine some lilwreckers or housewreckers could fit the bill.

"I should really see what dB levels I'm pushing. Long as it can't foam my beer during a movie we are ok "
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Old 01-17-2017, 10:32 PM
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Thanks for your insight auto. If the DTS10 is unfolded by half, (4'x4' into 2'x8') it should work nicely 'cept it cant be moved after and I better like corner loading. The only free space I have is under the tv, 8' x 2'. Probably starting out with Alpine SWS 10'S. Has ne1 tried the Dayton Ultimax 10s? Heard nothing but good reports on them. Not sure if TC-9's are worth the extra $$$. Just starting to learn hornresp - hoping to answer my own questions eventually. Hate being a noob.

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Old 01-18-2017, 04:17 AM
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Thanks for your insight auto. If the DTS10 is unfolded by half, (4'x4' into 2'x8') it should work nicely 'cept it cant be moved after and I better like corner loading. The only free space I have is under the tv, 8' x 2'. Probably starting out with Alpine SWS 10'S. Has ne1 tried the Dayton Ultimax 10s? Heard nothing but good reports on them. Not sure if TC-9's are worth the extra $$$. Just starting to learn hornresp - hoping to answer my own questions eventually. Hate being a noob.
Not sure about the dts10 being cut down and fitting 10's, but I've been away awhile. I'd definitely build it and test before making into a wall IMO. It's not uncommon here on AVS to see unfinished subs anyways , we're all guilty of it. Part excitement and part wanting to test the build and make sure it will sound how we want, where we want, when we want.

I can say I've been impressed with the Alpine lineup and SWS-10 in my picowrecker. Built the pico in Nov of 2015 and it's been used about every day since. Powered by a channel off a ep4000 @950 wRMS, and has constantly seen upper limits of the signal chain volume when demo to friends, or just want to crank it for no particular reason. Really impressed by that little sub. I've pairs of SWR-12's in the DTS, and they are no slouch either but need to be modeled. I know the SWS series model well in lilmikes designs and would be my first choice. If can model just like a DTS-10, the SWR-12 alpine is first pick for me.
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Old 01-18-2017, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc777 View Post
Thanks for your insight auto. If the DTS10 is unfolded by half, (4'x4' into 2'x8') it should work nicely 'cept it cant be moved after and I better like corner loading. The only free space I have is under the tv, 8' x 2'. Probably starting out with Alpine SWS 10'S. Has ne1 tried the Dayton Ultimax 10s? Heard nothing but good reports on them. Not sure if TC-9's are worth the extra $$$. Just starting to learn hornresp - hoping to answer my own questions eventually. Hate being a noob.
Sorry if I missed something earlier, but do you have a DTS-10 kit or simply wish to replicate it in your own fashion to fit the space?

I will be building mine hopefully later this spring to fit my Klipsch home theater space...

Al
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Old 01-18-2017, 03:33 PM
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No kit here, lots of free time with a broken arm. Chassmain built a nice TH 18" called Quadhorn lemme find it-


Wanted BIG BASS: Big room open to an even bigger room with lots of windows!


Instead of unfolding a DTS10 I might just follow Mikes design. Clean and easy. Not sure if a Ultimax 18" will squeeze into my box, slightly shallower than his. If it doesn't gonna try two 12's in Hornresp. Struggling with the throat pressure but still learning the app.
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Old 02-04-2017, 10:14 PM
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Are they still selling the kits at all?
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Old 02-05-2017, 07:46 AM
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Are they still selling the kits at all?
Nope.. I watch this thread just Incase anyone somewhat local wants to dump one ha... I have a knock off version and a perfect space to put it's father ha
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