Nate's THT build thread - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 220 Old 12-10-2009, 10:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Started a new thread for the build and trying to get stuff ordered today

Trying to make a list of what all I need. Just FYI I am very new at DIY or building anything for that matter...

Bought the baltic birch plywood
Ordering Dayton DVC385-88 15" DVC Series Subwoofer
Ordering BASH 300 watt amp
PL adhesive
Cables/wires

Someone mentioned weather stripping ...PE recommends this but I'm not sure if it's for the same application http://www.parts-express.com/pe/psho...number=260-542

Also do I need the mounting kit they recommend for this sub http://www.parts-express.com/pe/psho...number=260-778

Do I need any screws for this build? I have access to large clamps and the directions make it sound as though though they don't need to be screwed or nailed?

I would also imagine some sort of binding posts are needed....Can anyone recommend any they prefer?
Anything else I am forgetting?
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post #2 of 220 Old 12-10-2009, 12:47 PM
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Way to go on starting your own thread and build!!!

As for the PE stuff, I used both of those items. I picked up the weather stripping from PE, but the mounting hardware from HD. I'd go ahead and get the stuff from PE.

Screws, only if you want to. Some used them others didn't, but clamped the h3ll out of it. I used a ton of screws. The screws that Bill suggests are in the plans.

Binding posts. I picked up some from Radio Shack, but PE has some decent ones as well. As efficient as this thing is you don't need monsterous stuff.


good luck
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post #3 of 220 Old 12-10-2009, 01:02 PM
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here is all the stuff i used on my build

Binding post http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-309

Gasket Tape around access panel http://www.parts-express.com/pe/psho...number=260-542

10-32 T-Nutts http://www.amazon.com/10-32-T-Nuts-50-Pcs/dp/B0002ZPELS

10-32 x 1.5" Socket Cap screws here: http://www.microfasteners.com/catalo...cts/SSCSCA.cfm


#10 X 1-1/4" Phillips Oval #8 Head Sems Countersunk Washer Black Phosphate http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Sea...=25&Search.y=4

4 tubes of PL premium

1 tube latex caulk to fill cracks in subwoofer surround.
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post #4 of 220 Old 12-10-2009, 01:10 PM
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Good luck on the build, I'll be starting my own build page myself once my tools come in. I have zero experience with building anything so we are in the same boat. I would order those T-nuts from parts express at the same time as the speaker since they won't charge you shipping on orders over $49. Amazon will charge you $5. Hey that's saved money for something else.
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post #5 of 220 Old 12-10-2009, 02:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Probably sounds like a dumb question....but are the T-nuts and socket caps for mounting the sub?
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post #6 of 220 Old 12-10-2009, 02:50 PM
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yep for mounting the sub. buy your parts online, home depot and lowes and those places rape you on t nuts. i think i paid like 4 dollars for two t nuts at lowes, you can get 50 packs online for 4 dollars. same scenerio with socket caps.
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post #7 of 220 Old 12-10-2009, 03:22 PM
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Nice choices radman12

I used 10-32 hurricane nuts here: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...TOKEN=95972439

And 10-32 x 1.5" Socket Cap screws here: http://www.microfasteners.com/catalo...cts/SSCSCA.cfm

Make sure you secure the hurricane nuts on panel 3 with a 2 part 5 min epoxy. One of mine that was secured with gorilla glue stripped out and I had to cut out out.

I also used these to secure the access panel to the access flange: http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Sea...=25&Search.y=4

I also bought that speaker gasket tape you mention from PE.
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post #8 of 220 Old 12-10-2009, 03:25 PM
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yes mynym, i got that info from some random wise man
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post #9 of 220 Old 12-10-2009, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mynym View Post

And 10-32 x 1.5" Socket Cap screws here: http://www.microfasteners.com/catalo...cts/SSCSCA.cfm

Thanks for the link mynym, I just ordered the 10-32 x 1.5" Socket Cap bolts from there. Waaaay cheaper than HD would have them. One of these days I'll start my own build thread as I already have the driver, amp, and all the misc. stuff other than Arauco and PL.
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post #10 of 220 Old 12-11-2009, 07:16 AM - Thread Starter
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This also probably sounds like a dumb question...but I'm a noob at DIY. Will I just plug the RCA cable from the receiver into the amp, and then just run the wires to the binding posts, and then from the binding posts to the sub?
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post #11 of 220 Old 12-11-2009, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natemu06 View Post

This also probably sounds like a dumb question...but I'm a noob at DIY. Will I just plug the RCA cable from the receiver into the amp, and then just run the wires to the binding posts, and then from the binding posts to the sub?

You go it!

I start my build tonight!!
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post #12 of 220 Old 12-11-2009, 07:30 AM - Thread Starter
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One other thing I am noticing from my original lists vs some of what you guys used is that the kit from PE used T-nuts where some of you used hurricane nuts....any difference?
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post #13 of 220 Old 12-11-2009, 07:58 AM
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i was scared of the hurricane nutts, the only teeth on it are on the actualy insert. T nutts have the teeth on the actual top round part if you will. look at the two of them and you will see the difference. i used T nutts and i think they would be harder to spin out like some people have done with hurricane nutts
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post #14 of 220 Old 12-11-2009, 09:25 AM
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natemu06,

Are you going to mount the amp in the speaker, or enclose it and keep it by the equipment?


dbl

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post #15 of 220 Old 12-11-2009, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radman12 View Post

i was scared of the hurricane nutts, the only teeth on it are on the actualy insert. T nutts have the teeth on the actual top round part if you will. look at the two of them and you will see the difference. i used T nutts and i think they would be harder to spin out like some people have done with hurricane nutts


I prefer hurricane nuts or threaded inserts as they are both more resistant to being pushed out than a t-nut when first inserting a bolt. I've pushed out or spun far more t-nuts than I have hurricane nuts or threaded inserts. With the hurricane nut, you not only have the teeth and shaft friction holding it as you start to thread the bolt on, but also some additional friction as the flat face of the nut begins to be pulled against the face of the wood. If you drill your hurricane hut holes too big you are set up for failure.

If you ever have a bolt that is marred or for some reason isn't threading easily, do yourself a favor and don't force it. Just toss it aside and use one that threads easily. This will save you from running into many issues with any of these fasteners. I now try out each bolt and nut prior to installation. Takes a couple minutes but it's worth it.
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post #16 of 220 Old 12-11-2009, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amik View Post

If you ever have a bolt that is marred or for some reason isn't threading easily, do yourself a favor and don't force it.

Mistake #347 I made on my THT build .


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post #17 of 220 Old 12-11-2009, 10:21 AM
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i also dropped in some of that thread grease so bolts dont seize up on you. stuff works wonders.
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post #18 of 220 Old 12-11-2009, 10:32 AM
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If I had todo the THT over again I'd use threaded inserts instead of hurricane nuts. Cutting screws with a dremel tool because the hurricane nuts spin = the suck.
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post #19 of 220 Old 12-11-2009, 10:43 AM
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Before you install T-Nuts, Hurricane Nuts, or threaded inserts, run a tap through them to save you headaches later.....

If you don't have a tap, Harbor Freight often has tap and die sets on sale cheap. they are not good quality, but if you will only use them every now and then, they work very well...

JSS
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post #20 of 220 Old 12-12-2009, 11:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Everything is ordered but the amp. I will start building next weekend and I will get some pics up
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post #21 of 220 Old 12-16-2009, 08:35 PM - Thread Starter
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I will begin building Saturday morning but I wanted to clear one question up. Eventually I want to build a second one but I am unclear about positioning. It seems from my limited knowledge that 2 subs placed in two different positions can help smooth out the FR. I would assume this would be the same with the THT but I cannot remember where I read it specifically but someone seemed to hint this might be a bad idea? Do horns behave differently? I just ask b/c I didn't have a very smooth FR with me previous sub and I thought this might help out
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post #22 of 220 Old 12-16-2009, 08:37 PM
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There may be some phase probs, but you can only tell that by trying it out in your room. It has been suggested to stack the two horns together and try to keep the mouths as close together as possible for that reason.

EDIT: Check out wisounds set-up here. They are THT's but with the access panel in front.

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post #23 of 220 Old 12-17-2009, 03:29 AM - Thread Starter
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2 co-located wouldn't help out my FR though right? I guess trial and error seems like the best option
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post #24 of 220 Old 12-17-2009, 07:34 AM
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I do believe 2 would help to smooth out your FR. Phase problems generally arise with the use of different subwoofer "formats" simultaneously (...ported, horn, sealed, etc...). So you should be more than fine, if not closer to optimal with 2 of these monsters.
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post #25 of 220 Old 12-17-2009, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natemu06 View Post

2 co-located wouldn't help out my FR though right? I guess trial and error seems like the best option

No. Co-location will smooth out freq response in an open field/outdoors due to the larger effective horn mouth, but the room resonances dominate freq response indoors, so co-location will not do as much as placing them away from each other in the room.

JSS
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post #26 of 220 Old 12-17-2009, 03:20 PM
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Even these horns? I've read on Bill's site to keep the 'mouths' together.?.?.?


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post #27 of 220 Old 12-17-2009, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dbldare View Post

Even these horns? I've read on Bill's site to keep the 'mouths' together.?.?.?

That's with pro-sound.

Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design

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post #28 of 220 Old 12-17-2009, 05:09 PM
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Gotcha.


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post #29 of 220 Old 12-19-2009, 02:19 PM - Thread Starter
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So I've got everything cut out. One question I have is to I need to cut the access panel on both sides or do I just do that on 1 side?
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post #30 of 220 Old 12-19-2009, 02:35 PM
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1 will do. 2 will make it easier to mount the driver, but you then have to worry about making sure both sides are air tight.


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