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post #271 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Revolt View Post

Arg nice.. the one thing on my tht i don't like is the finish. Can i buy some of this and put it over the black paint thats on mine? Thanks ya'll. Lookin good man!

Yes, it can practically be sprayed over anything. I would do some testing first so you know the distances/finishes it will leave.

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post #272 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 06:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Myn, so mine is just a little rougher than yours. I wanted to do duratex but didnt want the hassle of ordering offline and waiting for it to come in. Im just impatient i guess.

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post #273 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Revolt this stuff can be put practically on any surface. I put it over a base of black paint.

Air, yes i checked for leaks and found none. Ill double check when tuning it. But i have more screws just incase. You went wild with the screws on yours haha but it will ensure a nice seal. I put the foam on the flanges and on the outer edges of the box. It was very tough to get the panel in place but i believe thats why i have no leaks.

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post #274 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by reecew View Post

Revolt this stuff can be put practically on any surface. I put it over a base of black paint.

Air, yes i checked for leaks and found none. Ill double check when tuning it. But i have more screws just incase. You went wild with the screws on yours haha but it will ensure a nice seal. I put the foam on the flanges and on the outer edges of the box. It was very tough to get the panel in place but i believe thats why i have no leaks.

My 2nd one leaked, and I didn't need a hose to hear it. Air was gushing out. My access panel was part of a warped peice of plywood

I added foam tape on the outer edges and it took care of it.

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post #275 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 06:40 PM
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This has been a really helpfull read! I just finished my DTS-10 today and will start on the THT tomorrow. They will be replacing an IB with 2 FIB3 18's.
I'm sure the THT will be a little more challenging to build vs. the CNC cut DTS-10. Oh well, I have a table saw and a couple of routers. should go quickly.
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post #276 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 06:44 PM
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My suggestion, cut all of your 23.5" peices in one swipe. Make your lateral cuts as you go.

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post #277 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 06:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Wrager View Post

This has been a really helpfull read! I just finished my DTS-10 today and will start on the THT tomorrow. They will be replacing an IB with 2 FIB3 18's.
I'm sure the THT will be a little more challenging to build vs. the CNC cut DTS-10. Oh well, I have a table saw and a couple of routers. should go quickly.

It really is an easy build. It just looks more complicated than it is. But follow the instructions 100% they are written meant for LITERAL translation and no room for thinking haha. I am curious once your done if you would be able to give us your honest opinion on the two. I know the DTS-10 is a monster that goes lower. Im just curious how something nearly 1/3 the price compares.

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post #278 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 06:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Air Supply View Post

My suggestion, cut all of your 24.5" peices in one swipe. Make your lateral cuts as you go.

Yes 23.5 haha. But none the less the same id use 3 sheets total and cut them all at the same time with the same fence inplace so theyre all the same height = less stress later.

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post #279 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by reecew View Post

Yes 23.5 haha. But none the less the same id use 3 sheets total and cut them all at the same time with the same fence inplace so theyre all the same height less stress later.

See......... that's how my build went. Always getting digits wrong!

And that stupid swanson guide board. That thing isn't sturdy when both peices are connected together. It moves, so it will screw your cuts up. You need to run a screw through it to keep it from moving as you run your saw down it.

I wasted ALOT of wood.

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post #280 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by reecew View Post

It really is an easy build. It just looks more complicated than it is. But follow the instructions 100% they are written meant for LITERAL translation and no room for thinking haha. I am curious once your done if you would be able to give us your honest opinion on the two. I know the DTS-10 is a monster that goes lower. Im just curious how something nearly 1/3 the price compares.

How much lower? Running 20hz through mine, I can't hear jack. Just air moving.

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post #281 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 06:54 PM
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Great we can hear a DTS-10 next to a THT
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post #282 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reecew View Post

It really is an easy build. It just looks more complicated than it is. But follow the instructions 100% they are written meant for LITERAL translation and no room for thinking haha. I am curious once your done if you would be able to give us your honest opinion on the two. I know the DTS-10 is a monster that goes lower. Im just curious how something nearly 1/3 the price compares.

I completely agree. I too wonder if Bill's THT can "hang" w/the DTS-10...or an IB for that matter. Granted my IB only has 2 18's vs. 4 like some have. I do have horn based mains (JBL MRX512's) so it should blend really well.
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post #283 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 06:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Ive seen some graphs showing usuable output down around 10-12 hz. But who really knows, if theyre legit then thats awesome from a horn.

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post #284 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Air Supply View Post

How much lower? Running 20hz through mine, I can't hear jack. Just air moving.

I don't know about hearing, but you can definately feel the pressure waves below 20hz. My IB will actually make my hair and pants move (flap).
It is really what makes the base so powerfull.

The issue with an IB (or other implementation) vs. a horn loaded sub, is it takes over 2000 watts to achieve this "feel." I use a QSC 4050HD.
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post #285 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 06:59 PM
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I believe you should feel 20hz not hear it.
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post #286 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 07:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrager View Post

I completely agree. I too wonder if Bill's THT can "hang" w/the DTS-10...or an IB for that matter. Granted my IB only has 2 18's vs. 4 like some have. I do have horn based mains (JBL MRX512's) so it should blend really well.

Really it is hard to compare(say this one dominates the other) two DIY subs one costing roughly $350-$400 and the other $1000+. But im sure it will do fairly well in comparison i doubt but who knows if the difference will be HUGE. Theres someone else who i think is wanting to replace or is replacing theyre IB with one or two of the THT's. So im sure they wouldnt do it if it wouldnt be an upgrade.

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post #287 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 07:06 PM
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Absolutely reece. The other issue is room interaction. This plays such a huge role in sub performance. I do have a very dead, highly treatd room.

The IB is tough to beat for sure. My wife can't stand the "noise" 3 flights up at night.
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post #288 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 07:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Wrager View Post

Absolutely reece. The other issue is room interaction. This plays such a huge role in sub performance. I do have a very dead, highly treatd room.

The IB is tough to beat for sure. My wife can't stand the "noise" 3 flights up at night.

Oh yea ive never personally heard and IB but i could only imagine the whole house having bass if done in the ceiling,floor, or walls with adjoining rooms.

Would you mind taking your in room measurements of each sub individually in the same exact spot with no eq? So that way theres nothing like placement to mess with the numbers. If you dont want to post your findings when the time comes i do not blame you at all. There has been a few arguments lately about peoples in room measurements all for nothing. I guess just for something to do? But if you could PM me with them or email them or something i would really appreciate it. My dad has been wanting me to build him a sub for his house and its between the two of these. Maybe if the DTS-10 is ALOT more efficient ill have him buy the DTS-10 for me and give him my THT lol. What kind of son am i that would rip off my own father?? One with an addict!

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post #289 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by reecew View Post

Oh yea ive never personally heard and IB but i could only imagine the whole house having bass if done in the ceiling,floor, or walls with adjoining rooms.

No more so than any other large sub capable of huge output below 20Hz.
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post #290 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 08:07 PM
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No more so than any other large sub capable of huge output below 20Hz.

Not quite true. With my IB, the back wave is free to "plunder" the whole house because it is in a free space. At least with a sub that is "in the room" it is contained by the same noise control infrastructure as the rest of the speakers. Now, I will say that the wave length of sub notes makes it very diificult to contain.
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post #291 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 08:16 PM
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How is it free to plunder the whole house? I have installed them in several homes and have never noticed anything unusual.

How big is your IB, and did you have a sub as capable at <20Hz frequencies before you added the IB?
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post #292 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by soho54 View Post

How is it free to plunder the whole house? I have installed them in several homes and have never noticed anything unusual.

How big is you IB, and did you have a sub as capable at <20Hz frequencies before you added the IB?

Because the back wave is open to the house with no absorption. Where as if the speaker is inside the theater, the walls are double dry wall, rsc clips, staggerd studs, mass loaded... to contain the sound. How many IB's have you seen or done that contain the powerful backwave? It is usually a closet, attick or spare room. The sound will permeate the whole house.
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post #293 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 08:32 PM
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In IB will cause no more output throughout the rest of the house than any other extremely capable sub. In a normal setting.

This is not your case however, and you have left that part out whenever you post about this backwave problem you are having.

In your case you have a room designed to contain the sound. Yes, in this case if you have half of the sub sticking out into an un-treated room you will get more output leakage than if you had the sub completely enclosed in your dampened room.

There is a difference there.
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post #294 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 08:42 PM
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Are you kidding? We are talking IB right?

I don't mean to be dense, but are you saying that most IB's have the back wave contained in a sound controlled area? Look at all the IB's installed in attics. People often talk about how you can hear it at the neighbors house.

Again, the theater rooms are (like mine) usually highly treated to keep sound in. An IB, by definition has the back wave seperated from the front wave.

http://www.penngray.com/house/WALL_UNIT_WITH_2_Q18S.JPG

Do you think Penn treated his attic to prevent sound movement?
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post #295 of 610 Old 01-01-2010, 09:00 PM
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Again, the theater rooms are (like mine) usually highly treated to keep sound in.

Exactly, like yours. Not everyone does this, it is odd to think otherwise.

Quote:


I don't mean to be dense, but are you saying that most IB's have the back wave contained in a sound controlled area?

I'm saying most people have zero sound controlled areas in there homes.

Quote:


Look at all the IB's installed in attics.

Been there done that.

Quote:


People often talk about how you can hear it at the neighbors house.

Any sufficiently large sub can do this. It had nothing to do with the backwave. Ask maxmercy about his neighbors calling the cops on him and his enclosed sub in this living-room.

I think you are attributing to much to this backwave. A non-enclosed backwave doesn't double a subs power output. All you loose is one walls worth of attenuation, and in the case of the attic the waves have go back through the portion of the house with the largest amounts of insulation to get back into any rooms after bouncing of the roof.

EDIT: Sorry Reece, for going so OT.
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post #296 of 610 Old 01-02-2010, 03:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Its alright fellasi do it all the time haha. But i got it inside a little bit ago. Havent fired it up yet at all since i dont have the time to dedicate to properly tuning it until later this evening. But heres a few photos can you spot the THT?


The mouth is to the left facing the corner and the door i hope this is ok placement.


And a little better shot of the finish. The bed liner i used is super glossy so the flash refliction makes you see some stuff that isnt there to the naked eye. But its just a quick photo anywho.

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post #297 of 610 Old 01-02-2010, 03:42 PM
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Looking good. If the door gives you a prob, can you put it on the right side of the room?


dbl

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post #298 of 610 Old 01-02-2010, 05:19 PM
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So how does it sound? Reecew was just at my house a few hours ago and borrowed my SPL meter. I know you are not going to push it hard but you should have some idea how it sounds.
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post #299 of 610 Old 01-02-2010, 06:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Yea mikes setup is already crazy 7 subs all running at once lol. Ive never felt bass like that and hes adding a THT into the mix.

Well DBL, there is no right corner it goes down to a 9' wide hallway. So the only other corner i have available is at the rear of the room a good 17-18 feet from the LP. I plan on putting some felt in the door jams to stop it from rattling if it does.

Im getting ready to tune it up right now so ill see how it sounds. I had to do stuff with the wife all evening otherwise it wouldve been done a while ago. Here goes ill let you guys know what i think in a little bit.

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post #300 of 610 Old 01-02-2010, 06:37 PM
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You can never have to many subs lol. I still think you need to make 3 more 1 for every Corner.
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