Originally Posted by kbgl
To avoid risk of damaging the tweeters, connect to the woofer instead as if it were a tweeter. You should only hear high frequencies.
Follow the path of the signal around the board. One wire will be a direct path to the negative terminal. This would be the ground. I see it, it's marked T-
You should be able to trace the positive terminal and follow it to a small capacitor. I cant see any way on the circuit to get to a cap. ???
OK this makes sense. I had the T- terminal and the red wire hooked up which gave me full sound on the tweeter. I can now read this board on the backside.
BUT, when you use the tweeter attenuator circuits, you must use the T+ terminal, and then one of the wires. I have it on the blue wire (-3dB) now and it blends so well its hard to tell the tweeter is working, but it is. If you look at the board picture (the back), there is no resistor on the yellow wire (-dB). So it just passes through the capacitor and then no resistor. There are two small holes where one could be insterted . . .if say i wanted to aim for -2dB instead of -1 or -3dB, as long as I cut the trace inbetween the holes.
Thanks so much for all of your help everyone. You're creating a monster.
They actualy sound pretty good now, although I may try these with TG9's and some Morel MDT 12 (I run these on my truck dash, with Dayton rs180's in the doors and a 12"sub).
BTW-funny story. I was running back and forth from the stereo to the shop to do these tweaks, then bring the speakers back to hear them on the stereo. My wife was there for the last 5 trips or so, doing some rare critical listening with me. At the end, I said "OK, one more tweak and I give up for the day". I unplugged the speakers and hooked my PSB's back up instead and turned on KD Lang-engenue (my test tracks) . . . I said "tell me if you hear the tweeters now . . " The look on her face was priceless! HUGE full rich sound. With the little ones sitting on top of the PSB's she couldnt tell where it was coming from. lmao
EDIT: OK I've read kbgl's post more thoroughly and I think you are right about a selector switch. It totally makes sense. I'm going to try connecting to the two terminals and use the red to connect to the others to see what works out. I'll look at the side-to-side cap then also.