I just wanted to mark this thread so that I can come back to it sometime within a week. I don't have time to read through it now but need to make a decision on threaded inserts vs whatever options are out there... I'm going to have a ton of LMS Ultra 18" 'ers showing up sometime next week...
Pick up a package of those anchors I posted about and try them out on some scrap.
You will probably thank me when you see how easy they are to use. Mounting the LMS can be a challenge under perfect conditions.
Oops operator error...I meant the silver ones you mentioned that thread in.
No worries, the ones I used were absolutely simple - the blades that carve into the wood are very fine and track perfectly as well as being easy to turn in.... I found no issues with it "galling" up the wood at all and stayed locked right in place after torquing the LMS's down.
Sorry to bump such an old thread, but I am intrigued by the possibility of using the E-Z ancor stud solvers posted by jpmst3 in this thread.
I have a question for anybody who has used the E-Z ancors. Has anybody had a problem with the sealing of their subs when using them? I say this because it looks like there's a possibility they might tend to not sit completely flush with the surface of the material to which they are installed. I'm thinking of a sonosub for which the driver mounting surface portion of the end cap is MDF and whose internal end cap layers are plywood. Is there some special trick to get them flush with the surface, or will they do so naturally with the right amount of torque on installation? I did look on their web site and they recommend a 1/4" pilot hole for installing into dense wood.
You can make them flush or not, that is up to you. They are simply a large screw that you tighten to the level you want.
I always make mine flush or very nearly . There are no issues with sealing, anymore than any other mechanical fastener.
If you are concerned for any reason you can always use silicon in and around the anchors since gluing them in is not needed like most other solutions.
In MDF and all wood you would want a pilot hole just any other fastener.
Any need for, say, a shallow countersink in preparation, or is there enough compression at the surface to seat them flush without it? I was worried (maybe unnecessarily) that they might tend to stick up, and if they made a bump, it might make a small air gap in the area around the driver mounting screw. My drivers have rather thin gaskets.
I am a very inexperienced woodworker, so I'm just trying to prevent myself from doing something stupid.