The "REECARRAY" build! - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 655 Old 03-08-2010, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Well after alot of heartache and grief trying to decide what mains to try and build for my first speaker build. Ive finally made up my mind. Theres just way too many options out there WHY?? It makes it tough on a fella to make up his mind . That being said my main goal is good SQ and high sensitivity second that i can power off just my receiver which is 110wpc.

I decided with my budget of $400-$500 i might be better of trying a line array since majority of the decent options IMO are $600+. I got a chance to hear some SLA's and was quite impressed ! But in a room of my size they will not be able to get loud enough before distortion takes over . So i knew i would have to step it up a bit. I did a little research on line arrays and talked with someone whos very familiar with building them successfully. And concluded it would cost me far to much to use an array of decent tweeters.

So with an idea from Neo Dan i decided to make an array with a waveguide and compression driver for the HF duties instead of a standard tweeter array. Do i have any clue how this will turn out? Absolutely not! But i am commited at this point. It could be an epic failure but its a risk i am willing to take. Worse comes to worse im out a few hundred on the mid woofers and building supplies. I can reuse the waveguide and compression driver in an econowave build if it comes to that. Lets hope it doesnt because lets be honest the array is going to look bad a$$ LOL. Some of you guys may think im an idiot for trying it but i dont care we all have to start an learn somehow.

Im using 8 6.5" midwoofers per tower http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=299-250
This compression driver with 75* conical WG from the QSC HPR122 http://professional.celestion.com/pr...etail.asp?ID=3 / http://qsc.com/products/speakers/hpr/hpr122i.htm

Some pics of the goodies!



The mid array should get me a sensitivity of 95db at 8ohms. I am going to have to use an L-pad to better match the compression driver to the mids. The box will be roughly 3.2 cuft sealed so .4cuft per driver. And it will stand a whopping 9.75"x12"x64". Ill also be building about a 6" to 8" tall base to mount the box too for much needed stability and to get the proper tweeter height.

Heres a few photos of the progress thus far.

Heres my chicken scratch to get the driver holes and WG aligned. Lets hope the spacing is proper!



Ive got the WG and driver holes cut. I am a samurai with a jig saw !


I tested a few of the drivers and WG to make sure they fit properly. Not too bad if i may say so .



Then i went ahead and glued the front baffle and one of the sides together.



I am working with a limited amount of clamps and tools here so while those panels dry i will cut the rest. Although you see a table saw in the background i am not using it these MDF sheet's are much too large. So im building this with a circular saw and sawguides. THIS IS FUN STUFF LET THE INSANITY BEGIN!

Alright heres the bracing and both sides in place. Im using a few tiny brad nails to help hold and rotating the clamps as needed.




And here is the back panel with the holes for the speaker terminal and L-pad knob cut out. Fit pretty good!



Heres a few pics of the wiring! Took these last night the few connectors you may see are no longer there its all soldered now.






Heres the box stuffed before the rear panel is installed.



And here is the front of it with drivers and WG in place.



Here it is in place looks pretty awesome next to my huge entertainment center not too out of place lol. Remeber there will be a nice base for it to lift it higher and it will be painted black.



And here it is dwarfing my old towers and they are not that small at all standing at 42" high and 10" wide!



Alright well heres the base's i came up with. Lift the tweeter height right where i want it and adds a little spiffyness! haha.







Well in attempt to try and spruce up my UGLY base's, i cut off 1" in height it helped the look and is still within good tweeter height. And i put on a little bit of trim. I plan to round over the edges of the base and speakers. And put some 3/4" to 1" quarter round around the bottom of the speaker where it meets the base.





Alright got both bases completely done and one box completely done and bolted to the base. The other box is being stubborn and im going to have to sand it down completely and re paint it in due time. Bases are covered in heruliner bed liner, it matches my sub. And the baffle is metallic gun metal grey. The rest of the box and trim on the base is just valspar roll on black satin paint. I kinda like it but am still on the fence about it. So be easy on me lol! And excuse the horrible quality pics alot of dust got stirred up bring the boxes inside the garage right before i took the pics.




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post #2 of 655 Old 03-08-2010, 06:54 PM
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Looks pretty cool Reece!

I can't wait to hear your impressions.

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post #3 of 655 Old 03-08-2010, 07:14 PM
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So uh yeah, you going to make a write up for this? If you're building them, I want to too!!

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post #4 of 655 Old 03-08-2010, 07:17 PM
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If you keep building, you might want to purchase a router and circle jig.

You can get perfect circles and recess the drivers....

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post #5 of 655 Old 03-08-2010, 07:22 PM
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Reece,you're making sawdust again ..man I am jealous.

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post #6 of 655 Old 03-08-2010, 07:28 PM
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LOL reecew, this could have been the ..... wait for it.....Horn array build.
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post #7 of 655 Old 03-08-2010, 07:41 PM
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Looking forward to following the build. Hope it all goes well and blows your socks off when complete.

He who does not punish evil commands it to be done.  Leonardo DaVinci

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post #8 of 655 Old 03-08-2010, 07:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I cant stop building its addicting haha! I know i need a router and circle jig badly! I have no clue why i havent bought one yet, i guess it will be my next tool purchase. Im still in my early building learning stages so i dont think id be comfortable recessing the drivers and WG just yet.

I was actually thinking of calling it the "HORNAY" lol.

Well i guess i left out something pretty critical. Using a little comb filtering forumla with the spacing of 6.5" i will be crossing over from the compression driver to the midwoofers at 2khz. Ill be using a generic x-over and l-pad for now. This is until i can get a new receiver with pre outs so i can run an active x-over. The generic x-over should get me by till then. The initial testing of a few woofers with compression driver sounded good!

Well got all the pieces for the first box cut. Both sides are on clamped down and drying. Tomorrow ill put the rest of it together and post pics then. Added a few pics of the drivers and supplies on the first post.

DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY PICS OF HOW YOU INSTALL AN L-PAD INTO THE BOX WITH THE NOB ON THE OUTSIDE? IVE GOT AN IDEA WAS JUST CURIOUS IF ANYONES DONE IT BEFORE?

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post #9 of 655 Old 03-08-2010, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbgl View Post

LOL reecew, this could have been the ..... wait for it.....Horn array build.

Thought of it first! It sounds good at first, but you'll be combating the evil combing effect. A possible solution would be to build a curved array, which would have reduced sonic field overlap and thereby avoid the problem.

Reece, you da man. Your jig saw kung fu is strong.

Is it bad that when I saw the title the first thing I thought of was "REECOLLAA"?

I look forward to your (obviously wildly sucessful) results!

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post #10 of 655 Old 03-08-2010, 08:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starkiller4299 View Post

Thought of it first! It sounds good at first, but you'll be combating the evil combing effect. A possible solution would be to build a curved array, which would have reduced sonic field overlap and thereby avoid the problem.

Reece, you da man. Your jig saw kung fu is strong.

Is it bad that when I saw the title the first thing I thought of was "REECOLLAA"?

I look forward to your (obviously wildly sucessful) results!

I had to have some sort of a catchy name! Thanks you, i look forward to my success as well haha.

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post #11 of 655 Old 03-08-2010, 08:31 PM
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For the L-pad you're gonna have to recess it from the inside so the lpad shaft can reach on the other side of the mdf.

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post #12 of 655 Old 03-08-2010, 08:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Kanaris View Post

For the L-pad you're gonna have to recess it from the inside so the lpad shaft can reach on the other side of the mdf.

I was thinking that so i went and grabed it and the volume knob i bought for it. I shouldnt have to recess it. Check out the pic the knob is deeper tyhan 3/4" so i wont have to. Probably shouldve check it out before asking .



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post #13 of 655 Old 03-08-2010, 08:56 PM
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Looks like you have to drill a 1 inch hole... I would apply 'no more nails' latex adhesive before I set the outer piece in..then when it dries (2 hours) install the lpad.This way no air would pass through it.

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post #14 of 655 Old 03-08-2010, 09:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Thats a good idea. Ill have to pick up some of that stuff. Hopefully i can get this done tomorrow. Anyone have an easy to read wiring diagram? These are 4 ohm woofers i need to wire them for a final impedence of 8 ohm. Ive got a slight idea but dont trust myself not on something this critical!

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post #15 of 655 Old 03-08-2010, 10:36 PM
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That's easy--with 8 drivers, wire 2 sets of 4 in series, and then parallel the two sets. 4*4/2=8.

Yaaaay, my degree is helping .

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post #16 of 655 Old 03-08-2010, 11:10 PM - Thread Starter
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LOL alright i got it ill wire 2 banks exactly like this

But after that not sure howd id connect the two positive and negative wires to make one to go to the x-over?

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post #17 of 655 Old 03-08-2010, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reecew View Post

LOL alright i got it ill wire 2 banks exactly like this

But after that not sure howd id connect the two positive and negative wires to make one to go to the x-over?

4 + 4 = 8

Wire the two sets in series.

XO (+) ---- Set 1 (+) WWWW Set 1 (-)---Set 2 (+) WWWW Set 2(-)----XO(-)
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post #18 of 655 Old 03-08-2010, 11:28 PM - Thread Starter
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I got it i think. Ok bank ones poisitve to positive on x-over then bank ones negative to bank twos positive and then bank twos negative to the negative on the x-over? and ill have 8 ohm load?

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post #19 of 655 Old 03-08-2010, 11:39 PM
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ASCII Wiring Diagram FTW!

Yeah - that's what I was trying to show.

If the banks are wired as a 4 ohm, two banks in series = 8 ohms.

Series = double, parallel = half (for simple cases)

Test with a meter to be sure, the resistance of each set should be equal to the resistance of a single driver (about 3 to 3.5 ohms for a 4-ohm driver), the resistance of the full array should be double a single driver, or about 6 to 7 ohms.
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post #20 of 655 Old 03-08-2010, 11:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Awesome man. I hope to be wiring this up tomorrow evening!

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post #21 of 655 Old 03-09-2010, 04:21 AM
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So, the plan is for all 8 woofers to share the same signal and run up to the 2k x-over frequency? The outer woofers could be rolled off lower if you wanted.
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post #22 of 655 Old 03-09-2010, 06:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reecew View Post

I was actually thinking of calling it the "HORNAY" lol.

lol! classic! I'm sure you could come up with a base design (and a facade at the top) that plays off of this name...
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post #23 of 655 Old 03-09-2010, 08:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kbgl View Post

So, the plan is for all 8 woofers to share the same signal and run up to the 2k x-over frequency? The outer woofers could be rolled off lower if you wanted.

Thats the plan correct. Not sure how i would do this. Im using a generic passive x-over. This is all new to me so ill be excited if it turns out as is lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lennon_68 View Post

lol! classic! I'm sure you could come up with a base design (and a facade at the top) that plays off of this name...

Oh yes haha. I could see it now when guest come over and are like WTF ! Its art right? lol

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post #24 of 655 Old 03-09-2010, 10:10 AM
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Glad to see you finally made a decision Those are looking sweet so far.

BTW, the Jasper circle jig is awesome! Especially for recessing the drivers.
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post #25 of 655 Old 03-09-2010, 11:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbgl View Post

You may want to have a few x-over parts on hand. I would suggest a couple caps and resistors, such as 8 microfarad and 8 ohms. What are the parts in the x-over you bought. Do you have a link, or a schematic.

As to wiring, just connect the bottom 4 woofers in series for 16 ohms, and do the same with the top four. Connect those two sets in parrallel for 8 ohms. I would suggest getting dual binding posts. Use one for the tweeter, and one for the woofer. With bannana plugs, it makes quick changes in polarity easy.

Well as i said my crossover is a generic design from PE. Here it is http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-140. I got them on sale for $23 so a few bucks more than it wouldve cost to build. Im not sure i can run two binding post with this x-over since its passive. If it were active i believe i could do this??? Can i even add those x-over parts or whatnot to this? And what will those do? So you dont reccomend wiring the 2 banks for 4ohm and then 8ohms to the x-over like mentioned before? Which way will get more even power displacement to the woofers?

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post #26 of 655 Old 03-09-2010, 11:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobG5589 View Post

Glad to see you finally made a decision Those are looking sweet so far.

BTW, the Jasper circle jig is awesome! Especially for recessing the drivers.

Thanks man im pretty happy about it! It was definitly needed on this build. But too late now . Theres always next time!


UPDATED FIRST POST WITH A FEW PICS OF THE PROGRESS!

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post #27 of 655 Old 03-09-2010, 12:11 PM
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Reece- This is a great thread! I hope everything turns out the way you want it to. I just might have to do something similar as well.
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post #28 of 655 Old 03-09-2010, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reecew View Post

LOL alright i got it ill wire 2 banks exactly like this

But after that not sure howd id connect the two positive and negative wires to make one to go to the x-over?

This is good.

Bank 1 in series with Bank 2 = 8 ohms

Later, if there is an upgrade path to better amplification and crossovers,
then you can parallel Bank 1 with Bank 2 to achieve the 2 ohm load (proamp
friendly). If you still use a passive crossover @ 2 ohms, you would need to
replace the existing one as you need one designed for a 2 ohm load, or if
you upgraded to an electronic crossover (active setup, analog or digital),
then there is no worries as the passive crossover is not used anymore.



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The perfect setting for things to come......

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post #29 of 655 Old 03-09-2010, 01:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by A-Rone View Post

Reece- This is a great thread! I hope everything turns out the way you want it to. I just might have to do something similar as well.

Thanks man, i assure you if it dont turn out i will let you guys know lol. If it works it will be a nice option.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thylantyr View Post

This is good.

Bank 1 in series with Bank 2 = 8 ohms

Later, if there is an upgrade path to better amplification and crossovers,
then you can parallel Bank 1 with Bank 2 to achieve the 2 ohm load (proamp
friendly). If you still use a passive crossover @ 2 ohms, you would need to
replace the existing one as you need one designed for a 2 ohm load, or if
you upgraded to an electronic crossover (active setup, analog or digital),
then there is no worries as the passive crossover is not used anymore.

Alright this is the route i will go for wiring then. Im already eyeing some receiver's with preouts to assist with the future upgrades. Id get it now, but no way i could slide that one past the wife. Maybe next month! Shes still got no clue what this has cost me haha.

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post #30 of 655 Old 03-09-2010, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reecew View Post

Well as i said my crossover is a generic design from PE. Here it is http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-140. I got them on sale for $23 so a few bucks more than it wouldve cost to build. Im not sure i can run two binding post with this x-over since its passive. If it were active i believe i could do this??? Can i even add those x-over parts or whatnot to this? And what will those do? So you dont reccomend wiring the 2 banks for 4ohm and then 8ohms to the x-over like mentioned before? Which way will get more even power displacement to the woofers?

You're getting too much input, so I'm going to back off for a while to reduce the confusion. Too many cooks in the kitchen at the moment. I'll be watching though.
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