Reed Exodus Anarchy 25hz Tapped Horn - Page 21 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #601 of 822 Old 12-23-2011, 09:50 AM
Newbie
 
((( atom )))'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Anyway, I stumbled over two TangBand W8-670C for 30€ each and ordered two. Well, I won't tell my girlfriend they are all new http://oaudio.de/media/products/9f11c282a848aa63a8e.pdf
I modeled an 80 l Horn that gous very flat down below 30 Hz. It looks good to me so far, but I am NEW to this
Here's a Hornresp-File, what do you think?: http://komeda-berlin.de/images/w8-640c.txt



EDIT: WRONG DRIVER, hold on... I'll fix it. - Fixed, the data-file is the right one now...
((( atom ))) is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #602 of 822 Old 12-23-2011, 10:38 AM
AVS Special Member
 
lilmike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,164
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 76
Which driver is that? Not familiar with that one at all.

Model looks OK at a glance, but I typically work in 2pi space and I typically use parabolic (PAR) flares, cause that's what I typically build. Can't get the file to import though - no way to really check things short of completely re-creating it.

Edit...

If the specs are right, that is another driver that is a good fit in the T-6.
lilmike is online now  
post #603 of 822 Old 12-23-2011, 11:38 AM
Newbie
 
((( atom )))'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
That's a driver that is on sale everywehere in Germany right now, for 30 , it's well worth a try.

Why can't you import my export? I'll re-export it, maybe something went wrong...

What makes a driver suitable for a TH in general, didn't really find anything on that, yet?

I'll go and check out the T6 again, having the driver in mind, this time...

Re-export: http://komeda-berlin.de/images/w8-670c.txt
Hornresp-version is 28.80
((( atom ))) is offline  
post #604 of 822 Old 12-23-2011, 11:52 AM
Newbie
 
((( atom )))'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
OK, checked out your T6 and I'm afraid, it's a little to big. I want to install two THs to the very left and right of a table/workbench, that spans over the entire widh (~ 4 m - ~13ft) of a room. I have not bought the board yet, but I am afraid, it will can only be 60 cm deep (23"). That would give max outer dinemsions of roughly 80 x 55 x ~ 30 cm (31" x 21" x 11") for each sub. Slimmer would be nicer.
((( atom ))) is offline  
post #605 of 822 Old 12-23-2011, 12:30 PM
AVS Special Member
 
lilmike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,164
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by ((( atom ))) View Post

That's a driver that is on sale everywehere in Germany right now, for 30 , it's well worth a try.

Why can't you import my export? I'll re-export it, maybe something went wrong...

What makes a driver suitable for a TH in general, didn't really find anything on that, yet?

I'll go and check out the T6 again, having the driver in mind, this time...

Re-export: http://komeda-berlin.de/images/w8-670c.txt
Hornresp-version is 28.80

I'm using v28.90.

Does look like a nice driver.
lilmike is online now  
post #606 of 822 Old 12-23-2011, 12:37 PM
AVS Special Member
 
lilmike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,164
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by ((( atom ))) View Post

OK, checked out your T6 and I'm afraid, it's a little to big. I want to install two THs to the very left and right of a table/workbench, that spans over the entire widh (~ 4 m - ~13ft) of a room. I have not bought the board yet, but I am afraid, it will can only be 60 cm deep (23"). That would give max outer dinemsions of roughly 80 x 55 x ~ 30 cm (31" x 21" x 11") for each sub. Slimmer would be nicer.

So, perhaps a wider Insubnia would work? At 7.25" wide internally, the original version is not wide enough to fit an 8" driver. Even if things are wide enough (8.75" or so), the other issue that I see is fitting the driver into the cabinet. At S4, there is not a lot of depth in this design, approximately 4.5 inches or 11.4 cm. The driver measures 11.3 cm.

That is a little too close in my opinion. The only option I see is mounting the driver through the baffle, which will make it impossible to remove.
lilmike is online now  
post #607 of 822 Old 12-23-2011, 01:25 PM
Newbie
 
((( atom )))'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
28.90, just downloaded it, but if it is not compatible... Ah, I know, what about this? - Should help...



Yeah, the driver is fine, especially for the price! What will I do with my TB W69-1024 though? I like the shape of them, they'd be perfect for a slimhorn one day...

I would not really care for not being able to unmount the driver, since I will never be able to play it loud enough to damage it, due to neighbours. Concerning the price, it can wery well live in there for the rest of its life..

So you'd suggest a wider Insubnia? Sounds good, since it is nice and small. What I'd like is to hit the 30 Hz (or a little less) in a smalish cabinet. As said, max SPL is not really an issue and anyway, I'll have two of these, so that shall be fine. I'll use them for both HC and music.

I'll install the new hornresp tomorrow, so if you are interrested in helping me designing this, we can easily swap hornresp-files around.
((( atom ))) is offline  
post #608 of 822 Old 12-26-2011, 08:52 AM
Newbie
 
((( atom )))'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
So I found some time and installed v28.90. I could import my file just fine. Strange. I re-exported it again from v28.90 an zipped it this time, maybe that helps? -> http://komeda-berlin.de/images/atomhorn.zip

Most of the simulation looks ok (to me), but the phase response looks horrible, so I have to improve the model before I can make plans for building.

The drivers should go on their journey tomorrow and arrive at the new Apartment just about the same time, as we will. Looking forward, I will make pictures, if anyone is interrested.

Building the Subs will not happen before January, have to build the kitchen first and the Cinema/HiFi-Room. My Girlfriend allows me to furnish it with good acoustics in mind and paint it in a darker green, I am very much looking forward to that!

Btw, the (important parts) of rest of the System is a pair of good old B&W Matrix 802s with a B&W Matrix HTM center and nice Accuphase/Rotel Amping.
((( atom ))) is offline  
post #609 of 822 Old 12-26-2011, 09:09 AM
AVS Special Member
 
NEO Dan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: North East Ohio
Posts: 2,978
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Code:
You can use the code tags to post your hornresp data in a box like this so we don't have to download files, just copy and paste between the tags. :)
The icon for the code tags in the advanced editor is the one with the # next to the php tag.

Regards,
Dan
NEO Dan is offline  
post #610 of 822 Old 12-26-2011, 01:10 PM
GPM
Senior Member
 
GPM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
Posts: 329
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Different strokes........ I'd rather folks create/post the HR Export file for us to DL into its Import file:

GM

 

w8670c.txt 0.3876953125k . file

Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
GPM is offline  
post #611 of 822 Old 12-26-2011, 05:43 PM
Newbie
 
((( atom )))'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
So I tuned every parameter very carefully, trying to the size at max. 80 l. I traded in some linearity of the frequency response for a working phase response and a rather nice impulse.

It bothers me, that I don't really understand wich parameter leads to what change, but I am getting more of a feeling for it.

I guess this is about the best I can do.

What do you think? Am I somewhere near ok?

Code:
ID=28.80
Ang=2.0 x Pi
Eg=2.83
Rg=0.00
Fta=0.17
S1=31.00
S2=73.00
Con=10.70
F12=0.00
S2=73.00
S3=301.00
Con=366.70
F23=0.00
S3=301.00
S4=312.00
Con=60.00
F34=0.00
S4=0.00
S5=0.00
L45=0.00
F45=0.00
Sd=208.00
Bl=12.79
Cms=3.32E-04
Rms=2.31
Mmd=39.92
Le=0.30
Re=6.50
TH=1
Vrc=0.00
Lrc=0.00
Ap1=0.00
Lpt=0.00
Vtc=0.00
Atc=0.00
Pmax=100
Xmax=5.0
Comment=AtomHorn2
I guess I should move out of this thread and open one of my own. Let's first see, if anyone replies...
((( atom ))) is offline  
post #612 of 822 Old 12-26-2011, 06:26 PM
AVS Special Member
 
lilmike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,164
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 76
I'd switch to parabolic flares, because that is probably the closest approximation to what you will build.

I'd also add the Atc and Vtc for that driver, unless mounting through the baffle as was discussed earlier.

Then - see if you like what the model shows you, and more importantly, see if you can fold it into something that you can build that matches what you modeled.

Definitely suggest another thread.
lilmike is online now  
post #613 of 822 Old 12-27-2011, 02:42 AM
Newbie
 
((( atom )))'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
So I switched to parabolic flares and gave it a little compression chamber, not entirely sure about the values, though.

Another thing I switched is threads, since this is the Anarchy Horn thread, sorry for the noise and thanks for the help here!

The new thread can be found here, every input is more then welcome! http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1382690
((( atom ))) is offline  
post #614 of 822 Old 01-11-2012, 01:04 PM
Member
 
icantfindone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
So I have the 240w Dayton amp from PE, Anarchy drivers should be here tomorrow, and just got back from Lowes with wood, tools, clamps and squares. Should have a fun weekend making dust.

Only problem is they only had 4'x4' and 2'x4' in the 1/2" birch, so I got 3 sheets of the 4x4 and one 2x4. Any chance someone with the software could produce cutsheets for the 4x4 for a pair of these subs? Or point me in the direction to do it myself? In return, I promise pics

Also, after looking at the PDF for the plate amp, I am still not sure what I need to do to HPF mod it. Any pointers with that would be awesome. Thanks in advance for all the help.
icantfindone is offline  
post #615 of 822 Old 01-11-2012, 01:19 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Erich H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cincinnati OH
Posts: 5,185
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 161 Post(s)
Liked: 447
Just a quick heads up, the CNC company is suppose to be cutting 50 - 75 more of these flat packs next week. They sent me the order papers. Price is suppose to be the same as far as he knows.
Erich H is offline  
post #616 of 822 Old 01-11-2012, 02:06 PM
AVS Special Member
 
lilmike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,164
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by icantfindone View Post

So I have the 240w Dayton amp from PE, Anarchy drivers should be here tomorrow, and just got back from Lowes with wood, tools, clamps and squares. Should have a fun weekend making dust.

Only problem is they only had 4'x4' and 2'x4' in the 1/2" birch, so I got 3 sheets of the 4x4 and one 2x4. Any chance someone with the software could produce cutsheets for the 4x4 for a pair of these subs? Or point me in the direction to do it myself? In return, I promise pics

Also, after looking at the PDF for the plate amp, I am still not sure what I need to do to HPF mod it. Any pointers with that would be awesome. Thanks in advance for all the help.

For the amp mod, I just followed these instructions.

You're just swapping a pair of resistors. Remove the old ones, install the new ones.

It is not too hard, but you do have to remove the preamp board for access (2 screws and the nuts underneath the two knobs). The resistors are little, and one leg is sort of buried under a capacitor lead.

I managed it, and the amp still works.

For the cut sheets, I use this: http://delphiforfun.org/programs/cutlist.htm

You have 3X 4X4 and 1X 2X4? One pair of cabinets? I can run a cut sheet for you without too much trouble, but it will be later tonight.
lilmike is online now  
post #617 of 822 Old 01-11-2012, 03:06 PM
Member
 
icantfindone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Yeah, building 2 of the subs. I figured the 3 sheets of 4x4 would be plenty. I grabbed an extra 2x4 to give me some extra material to make a box to mount the amp in, and just in case I fudged a panel or two. Figured it couldn't hurt.

Thanks for the link to the software and amp mod Mike. Figuring out the cut sheets now.

WRT the amp, I want to use the resistor values for the 6dB boost @ 25Hz and the response falls below that?
icantfindone is offline  
post #618 of 822 Old 01-11-2012, 04:03 PM
AVS Special Member
 
lilmike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,164
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by icantfindone View Post
Yeah, building 2 of the subs. I figured the 3 sheets of 4x4 would be plenty. I grabbed an extra 2x4 to give me some extra material to make a box to mount the amp in, and just in case I fudged a panel or two. Figured it couldn't hurt.

Thanks for the link to the software and amp mod Mike. Figuring out the cut sheets now.

WRT the amp, I want to use the resistor values for the 6dB boost @ 25Hz and the response falls below that?
No boost. Keep the amp as flat as possible. Use the values in the flat-to ____ section.

That should be enough material. I have the data files at home, it is pretty quick to cut and paste, then edit the material sizes to get you a specific cutting plan. Just at work for another hour....

And - several hours later......

Here is the text file. Save it, run it in cutlist, and you'll have your cutsheet.

 

2xinsubnia.txt 0.783203125k . file
lilmike is online now  
post #619 of 822 Old 01-12-2012, 02:45 PM
Member
 
icantfindone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Got it all cut out, just waiting for UPS to drop off the drivers.

Thanks for the help with this Mike, you're the best.
LL
icantfindone is offline  
post #620 of 822 Old 01-17-2012, 01:54 AM
Newbie
 
condenser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Please excuse this question from a complete noob... I was about to pull the trigger on components for this build, then I read this statement:

Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

Don't get me wrong - I like the Insubnia a lot.

But - if you're only looking at building one sub, primarily for listening to music, and you're gonna buy a whole sheet of plywood anyhow - I really suggest you look at my T-6 instead

I'd like a sub that:

- is only used for listening to music to help round out a yet-to-be-built set of speakers like Paul Carmody's Amiga or Speedster
- in 15x15' or smaller room
- at low to moderate volume
- with wussy music like jazz, classical, 70s rock or something unplugged... but sometimes showing my wild side and cranking it up to 8 with The Beatles
- will probably geek out with room measurement, MiniDSP, etc, just because.

Would you make these, T-6 or perhaps a sealed design like Critical Q Sub? What would give me best sound quality, sufficient loudness, and reasonable cost (hoping to meet $300 all in)

I suspect the answer is "it depends", but any bit of insight would be appreciated.
condenser is offline  
post #621 of 822 Old 01-17-2012, 07:02 AM
Member
 
JackNC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 169
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 14
For your use - small room, moderate volume, music but not HT, you could do quite well with a sealed sub. Either horn will also get you there the trade off being the larger space for the horn but able to use a cheaper driver and amp. The sealed approach can be engineered for a small box but require higher power amp for the same volume. With room gain and placement near corner, you'll have plenty of low end extension. A $300 budget is tight. A CSS TRIO12 plus a 250W plate amp just about makes it. Its a close call and you should work the numbers in WinISD or Unibox to make it. MiniDSP will tip you over budget but will give you lots more flexibility in implementing crossover and equalizing. You could also go with a pro-amp with DSP link iNuke1000
JackNC is online now  
post #622 of 822 Old 01-17-2012, 08:35 AM
AVS Special Member
 
lilmike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,164
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by condenser View Post

Please excuse this question from a complete noob... I was about to pull the trigger on components for this build, then I read this statement:



I'd like a sub that:

- is only used for listening to music to help round out a yet-to-be-built set of speakers like Paul Carmody's Amiga or Speedster
- in 15x15' or smaller room
- at low to moderate volume
- with wussy music like jazz, classical, 70s rock or something unplugged... but sometimes showing my wild side and cranking it up to 8 with The Beatles
- will probably geek out with room measurement, MiniDSP, etc, just because.

Would you make these, T-6 or perhaps a sealed design like Critical Q Sub? What would give me best sound quality, sufficient loudness, and reasonable cost (hoping to meet $300 all in)

I suspect the answer is "it depends", but any bit of insight would be appreciated.

There is not one way to skin this cat - in other words - there are lots of correct answers to your question.

I made the T-6 cause I could.... I had drivers that needed a home. They're good enough that I am still listening to them. The Insubnia is all sorts of awesome too, but it really is best used in multiples, especially the way that I play. A simple sealed sub (done properly and placed well) should sound OK, multiples will probably sound better. The Insubnia? Should be fine too, up to about 105 dB in the room. That's loud, but not THAT loud, lotsa folks on here like to see 10 to 15 dBs on that (myself included), which means I'd need to build 4. Don't really have a place for four subs at the moment, but a pair works well, hence the T-6.

The kit is nice for those not so woodworking-inclined, but these are not that hard of a build. The T-6 and the Insubnia are very similar, same number of parts inside.
lilmike is online now  
post #623 of 822 Old 01-29-2012, 02:36 PM
Member
 
LejfK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: San Diego
Posts: 79
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hi guys. Looking into making two of these for my girlfriend (her son's in wood shop and we're looking for a project to do together). And, a little birdy told me the Anarchys were about to go on sale soon.

So, quick question. How would this do as an amp for two? Would i be beter off with the audiosource? http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAMP1000-Pyl...ht_3505wt_1018

Spongebob quote - "But Squidward, we already played babble like an idiot."
LejfK is offline  
post #624 of 822 Old 01-29-2012, 04:50 PM
AVS Special Member
 
lilmike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,164
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by LejfK View Post

Hi guys. Looking into making two of these for my girlfriend (her son's in wood shop and we're looking for a project to do together). And, a little birdy told me the Anarchys were about to go on sale soon.

So, quick question. How would this do as an amp for two? Would i be beter off with the audiosource? http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAMP1000-Pyl...ht_3505wt_1018

I'll never buy another Pyle anything. IMO, you're far better off with the Audiosource, or the BASH 300 plate amp.
lilmike is online now  
post #625 of 822 Old 01-30-2012, 12:54 PM
Member
 
LejfK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: San Diego
Posts: 79
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Just so everyone knows, the Anarchys are back on sale this week for $67.25 Just put in my order.

http://www.diycable.com/main/default...47763aa21bcdbc

Spongebob quote - "But Squidward, we already played babble like an idiot."
LejfK is offline  
post #626 of 822 Old 01-30-2012, 10:45 PM
Member
 
Longie11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

I'll never buy another Pyle anything. IMO, you're far better off with the Audiosource, or the BASH 300 plate amp.

Could I run Two off the Bash 300 without changing the stock resistors? I couldn't find much in the way of High Pass or if the Bash had unwanted boost somewhere.
Longie11 is offline  
post #627 of 822 Old 01-30-2012, 11:40 PM
AVS Special Member
 
lilmike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,164
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longie11 View Post

Could I run Two off the Bash 300 without changing the stock resistors? I couldn't find much in the way of High Pass or if the Bash had unwanted boost somewhere.

The brand new BASH 300 I recently measured has about 1 dB of boost at 22 or so, rolls off very nicely below that. Should work OK, but will deliver a touch more power than needed.
lilmike is online now  
post #628 of 822 Old 01-31-2012, 10:00 AM
AVS Special Member
 
fbov's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bushnell's Basin, NY
Posts: 1,014
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longie11 View Post

Could I run Two off the Bash 300 without changing the stock resistors? I couldn't find much in the way of High Pass or if the Bash had unwanted boost somewhere.

That's what I did; built the amp into one sub (added a bustle) based on lilmike's recommendation, now backed up by measurements. Before, all I had was my ears telling me the extreme low bass was missing, just what I expect compared with a 15" selaed sub running a little 22Hz boost (Oaudio 500W plate amp).

It's a good combination as long as you don't try to clip the amp; I recall 75W being the driver's limit in the horn. But you have headroom!

HAve fun,
Frank
fbov is offline  
post #629 of 822 Old 02-01-2012, 06:18 PM
Newbie
 
Pyromaniak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I'm currently building a modified one of these for a Dayton Titanic 10". Modified for 3/4" material and again to turn the driver the other way because the magnet end wont fit in the throat.





Pyromaniak is offline  
post #630 of 822 Old 02-06-2012, 05:49 AM
AVS Special Member
 
kevin g.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,295
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Liked: 40
Guys,
I have been on the fence for building two of these for my theater...(rather largish full open basement...)
Would I notice any improvement over a Dayton 10 in. "Tiny Mighty"? For whatever reason, (I must have some "good" room gain) it holds up well and impresses me when I am able to turn it up...But, I keep hearing the old addage..."No replacement for displacement..."
My plan is, to place them under my screen, (which is the current location of the Dayton...seems to give me my best SQ), as a fabricated "stage" area...
As the Exodous is on sale, and Erich is gearing up for another run of Flat Packs...I feel this is the time...
Also, which "Rack Mountable" amp to run two of these? as a Plate does not seem to be in the build plans for mounting?

"Once you learn good English...Can't nobody take it away!"

Xbox LIVE Gamertag: KEVIN G 40

kevin g. is offline  
Reply DIY Speakers and Subs

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off