the receiver LFE setting should take care of everything else above 80 or wherever you set it
They are back in place where that pic a few posts up showed with these guys sitting on top of them
Does anyone know if I can use the minidsp to limit the amount of power that my speakers receive? I'm looking at possibly getting an EP4000 now for some future upgrades, but wondered if I could run my 2 anarchy tapped horns off of it...without melting them of course.
yea im using one for that reason, I got the 1000 DSP which does 150x2 @ 8 ohms, i have it set to ~120 right now
if you wanted to grab a 3000 or 6000 DSP model for future proofing you could do the same limiting with them on these guys without fear of killing them
Not a bad idea, I just hate the idea of getting another DSP having just bought the minidsp not all that long ago. Would the NU1000 (non dsp version) at ~150w x 2 still be too much?
Well, not long signed up to this site, been looking for a while tho. I'd like to be able to build this horn as my first foray into all this but i dont have the permission to download the pdf. Never mind. Just like to say ive tried hornresp, and it is getting on my goat, very frustrating. Tried to input my driver specs but still get confused. I aint stupid but it sure feels like i am. Anyway, i plan on a horn build for my tv system, and will surely be getting plans for some Bill M stuff for outside. i take my hat off to all and sundry who have built horns and admire those who can use hornresp. If i could, i'd love to be able to model a woofer i have just to see if it could work in a horn. Please, can anyone tell me if i need to use hornresp to model the driver, then use this sketchup to design it? is that the way she goes? Sorry, just trying to clarify, im doing my best and will not be happy at all until i have a grasp on all this. I know this is off topic so my apologies to the old faithful. I admit i am getting desperate lol. And if anyone is interested the driver i have is a pioneer tsw 309 d4, have 2 actually, sittin around doing nothin, would love to put them to use doing something, anything. Thanks and apologies once again.
With help from "Lilmike" I modified two used Dayton 240 plate amps. One worked flawlessly, but one did not work properly. A call to Parts Express (PE) brought advice to send it to PE, which I did. An accompanying note described the history and requested help, authorizing the tech to dispose of it if not fixable or worth fixing.
Shortly thereafter I received an email advising the unit was repaired. I need only pay $11.46, the return shipping cost. The amp now works perfectly.
PE is a great company with which to do business. Send most companies a defective, discontinued, modified product that had been purchased used and they would suggest an unnatural act for you and the product. PE is a great asset to the DIY fraternity.
Last edited by DizRotus; 08-19-2014 at 09:00 PM.
Sheet of 1/2" Plywood (sandply): ~$40 from HD
Glue, Stain/paint, finishing: ~30
Amp: Dayton SA100 $90 here at parts express
HPF for 20 HZ: $25 from parts express
I don';t have any experience with the FMOD's yet. Maybe someone else will chime in regarding a HPF option.
1. Any issues with turning this sub on its side? Meaning the opening would be facing either up or down and the driver mounting plane would be horizontal. I know horizontal mounting isn't really good for any driver, but some handle it better than others.
2. How's the vibration on these at full tilt? I suspect with the small driver and relatively heavy enclosure, it's minimal. But I'd love to hear from somebody that's using one.
I'm thinking of building a pair of these as narrow end tables for our family room where WAF is high priority. The unusual orientation mentioned above is to get the height right (after the addition of some feet). The vibration concern is to make sure they function well as tables. WAF plummets if her wine glass plummets.
Very little vibration that I have noticed. You can always widen the base if you are standing on end.