Reed Exodus Anarchy 25hz Tapped Horn - Page 30 - AVS Forum
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Old 01-05-2015, 09:58 AM
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Materials List and wot not

Lilmike - THANK you so much for the information. I have managed to find the baltic birch but its 4 hours round trip to get it, I live in a VERY rural area and would have to drive no matter what anyway. I really do need a good materials list so I will not have to make an hour drive for a small item that would delay the build

Here is what I have so far for materials, I'm building 2 of these by the way.

Tools

Skilsaw
Clamps
Brad Nailer
Straightedge
Jig Saw (I don't have any fancy stuff so I will have to cut the driver opening with this anything additional I could use to make sure my cur is a perfect circle?)
Drill and associated bits

Assembly Materials

2 5x5x1/2" sheets of baltic birch
1 tube of PL Premium
1 1/4" brad nailers
Misc 1 1/2" wood screws
1 block of Duct Seal
Acoustic foam if I can find it
Hurricane Nuts (whatever that is for driver mounting)??

Audio Stuff

2- Anarchy Woofers
1- Bash 300
2- Terminal Cups
2- Of Some kind of straight run of speaker wire to hook up driver to terminal cups.

Finish

Quart of primer
Quart of latex flat black or if anyone has another suggestion to a kit please let me know
Rough nap roller for texturing.

Does anyone see anything that I may have missed?

I will review the T-6 build..thanks!

I was hoping to get everything cut before I leave town on the 12th that way when I come back later this month I can start assembly but we will see.
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:55 AM
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Method of Determining Driver Polarity?

OK... I built two of these in 2010, and it appears I have the polarity reversed on one of them (response is nil when played adjacent to each other).

Is there an easy method to determine proper driver polarity after the fact?

Thanks for a great sounding lil sub, Lilmike......
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Old 01-06-2015, 11:28 PM
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You can do the pop test with a 9v battery. Just briefly touch the speaker leads to the battery terminals. With + on the battery going to + on the sub the cone should move outward, away from the motor assembly.
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Old 01-07-2015, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the-jessman View Post
You can do the pop test with a 9v battery. Just briefly touch the speaker leads to the battery terminals. With + on the battery going to + on the sub the cone should move outward, away from the motor assembly.
That would work great if I could see the driver. My cabs don't have an access door.
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Old 01-07-2015, 09:09 PM
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Can you reach in and feel the back of the cone with your hand? You may need a helper to do it, but you should be able to do the pop test and lightly feel which way the cone moves.
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Old 01-08-2015, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the-jessman View Post
Can you reach in and feel the back of the cone with your hand? You may need a helper to do it, but you should be able to do the pop test and lightly feel which way the cone moves.
Thanks, worked great....didn't realize I could feel the cone, I knew about the battery method. Ended up my subs were wired correctly, so it was a head scratcher for a few minutes. I have them powered with one of my old EP2500's..... "someone" had reversed the bottom pair of the speaker connector stud screw-ons (red vs. black). From top to bottom they should be B-R-R-B. All is well with the world once again.

Last edited by zhillsguy; 01-08-2015 at 07:27 PM.
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Old 01-09-2015, 08:23 AM
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small class d use with this sub

Can I use this amp with this sub (Any comment on this kit?)

detail From ebay seller

TDA8920 1.0 Super bass Version digital amplifier board (peak value 180W) power Class D power amplifier board

Product Introduction:

TDA8920 1.0 Super bass version digital amplifier board

This amplifier board adopts TDA8920BTH digital power amplifier chip as the core, BTL bridged method,the output power can up to 140W(peak value 180W).
It's compactable,high-effeiciency,high power,etc.
Super Bass low pass filter part adopts 2 pieces Operational amplifiers,cut-off frequency can be adjusted between 22Hz~210Hz.The overall effect is quite ideal.
All components are carefully selected,such as SANYO,NCC,philips capacitors,output terminal red-ring large current digital power amplifier Special inductance,Sealing quality potentiometers,original TDA8920 Chip iC,SMD components etc.
Simple circuit,Reliable function.
Parameters:

Working voltage: Dual ±20V-±25V

we usually use the dual AC 20V-25V power supply+8*2200uF SANYO capacitor Array Power Amp filter circuit board(You can find out it in our store.)
The maximum output: 140W(8Ω/ ±25V) Peak value:180W
Dimension: Width x Dept x Hight(107.5mm*81.5mm*35mm) (The dimension do not include the potentiometer handle & other Projecting part)
Input hole spacing distance:2.5mm
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Old 01-10-2015, 07:32 AM
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iNUKE1000DSP advice?

The good news is that all 4 subs are in use and they sound great. The bad news is that Erich at DIYSoundgroup has run out of flat-packs.

Right now, the placement is shown in the attached drawing. The small space limits the placement options. The drivers are 8 ohm. They're wired in series in each pair and then the pairs in parallel, presenting an 8ohm load to the single Dayton 240 that has been modified to have a 20Hz HPF.

In the configuration shown in the attached drawing, they provide the best bass I've ever had. Using Pono (that's another topic) the bass for music is stunning. Playing the Danley Sound Labs test files (Donny's Harley, trains and a fireworks finale) is breathtaking. Watching a black lab try to chase the Harley is quite entertaining.

I recently purchased an "open box" iNUKE 1000DSP from Parts Express to replace the Dayton. Any suggestions regarding implementing the iNUKE with the four 8 ohm subs are very welcomed.
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Last edited by DizRotus; Yesterday at 07:36 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 01-11-2015, 08:02 AM
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test files

Dear DizRotus

Very interest on Danley Test file Can you share the file? 'coz I don't no how to get it

Regards
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Old 01-11-2015, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by first_1st View Post
Dear DizRotus

Very interest on Danley Test file Can you share the file? 'coz I don't no how to get it

Regards
The files are too large to be attached to a post. If you go to the site below, you'll see the four clickable links at the lower left. Download the files from there.

http://www.danleysoundlabs.com/tom-d...ic-recordings/
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Old 01-13-2015, 06:33 AM
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Thank for the link

Thank you very much
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Old 01-15-2015, 09:33 AM
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Regarding the photo and drawing attached to post #871 above, If I were to reverse the front subs so that the mouths face outward toward the corners, rather than inward toward the center, how far from the corners do they need to be to not be "obstructed" by the corner walls?

The smoothed out bass from 4 subs is fanatastic with the subs as in the attachments. Nonetheless, I want to experiement with facing the mouths into the corners. It will also allow the option of bringing the mains closer together.
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