Reed Exodus Anarchy 25hz Tapped Horn - Page 34 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #991 of 1012 Old 10-24-2016, 12:55 PM
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Well, basically, it's your call as all I can do is try to give you as much accurate info as I feel I can for you to make an informed enough decision.

For me personally, if I were choosing based on price/availability and this driver was the best bang/buck and all I needed was a ~25-80 Hz BW, then combined with my 60+ yrs of experience in this hobby I'd use it in a 'New York minute'.

Hmm, wonder why, it's from a Google image search and seems to me it's 'buried' in this thread as well as in a HTF one as well. Regardless, try this one: http://lh3.ggpht.com/_WXjTASetbPo/S6...chy%201w1m.JPG

......and if that doesn't work, scroll down to see it in Google images: https://www.google.com/search?q=exod...6.5+th&imgrc=_

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post #992 of 1012 Old 10-24-2016, 01:46 PM
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If I could get hold of the correct drivers for this design without jumping through crazy, expensive hoops, I'd build a pair in a "Bristol second"

Thanks for the image links again - isn't that frequency graph for the Anarchy driver, not the Tang Band W6-1139SIF I posted about though?

I've started the journey now, so I'll see where it takes me. I'd much rather build something that I can learn from, rather than just dropping hard-earned on a branded device.

I'm sure there are other designs out there that might fit the bill, just happens that this is the most interesting one I've found so far
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post #993 of 1012 Old 10-24-2016, 02:13 PM
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Hmm, we seem to be having a 'failure to communicate'........

Understood, I was just saying if I wasn't willing to pay for the correct drivers and the TBs were the best 'fit' overall available to me, but I'm not you or live in your room, etc., so not meant to sway you either way............

You're welcome! Correct, I was pointing out that this driver/TH alignment sims slightly under-damped, but is actually slightly over-damped in reality.........

Anyway, good luck with the search; from dim memory it seems like this particular base TB model was one of a series of near identical models WRT its [close enough ] T/S specs and a number of different TH alignments were posted for them that will likely be optimized 'close enough' for the SIF, so Googling W6-1139 to satisfy my curiosity returns at lot of links for one to research: https://www.google.com/search?q=W6-1...hrome&ie=UTF-8

Have fun!

GM

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post #994 of 1012 Old 10-24-2016, 02:22 PM
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Thank you for your patience - all crystal clear now

Sorry, I'm obviously new to this particular world, but I've built crazy projects on completely different topics in the past. I'm going to duck out and stop asking silly questions. Enjoy your day now
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post #995 of 1012 Old 10-24-2016, 04:18 PM
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You're welcome!

No problemo, statistically, very few on the audio forums 'have a clue' since harnessing Mother Nature is no trivial pursuit once one moves past a basic sealed or reflex [Helmholtz resonator] alignment. Without computers, powerful software, there would be few, if any, 'open' audio forums, instead it would be like in prosound, antenna and other specialized forums that severely restrict letting the 'unenlightened' post.

Well, you know what they say, it's only a silly, stupid/whatever, Q when you ask the same one over n' over. Anyway, hope I haven't discouraged you too much to continue.

Thanks, have a better one!

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post #996 of 1012 Old 10-25-2016, 12:07 PM
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Its all good - I appreciate the advice.

I've been a senior / long term member of other forums on different topics in the past, so I understand n00bs coming along wanting the world and knowing nothing.

I still want to do this project, but it'll take a sideline until I can work out a solution to acquiring drivers... or just suck up the cost. Unfortunately the current political climate isn't on my side at the moment to keep costs down
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post #997 of 1012 Old 10-25-2016, 12:29 PM
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I hear ya! I'm 'sitting on the fence' of some mega major lifestyle changes, purchases [or not] pending which way the 'wind blows'.

GM

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post #998 of 1012 Old 12-18-2016, 04:38 AM
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Hi,

Just for a bit of closure, I went for it and had a go at a build using one of the Ferric Tang Band drivers I managed to get hold of (that's was a journey in itself). Finished late last night. Tested this morning. Wife came up to the attic just now: "The whole house is shaking, I take it that's worked then?" Yep.

For a n00b who's only tools were a jigsaw, drill and a whole lot of gumption - I reckon its turned out alright. I ended up having to cut it all freehand using the jigsaw, so sealing it was interesting. I've screwed it all together and used sealant rather than glue, so I can take it apart fettle the damping (if I can be bothered) and potentially swap out drivers in the future.

On initial listen it sounds fat and flabby, but very deep. Swimming in bass close to the decks, but thin a few metres away. My room is about as far from ideal as you can get for acoustics, mind. I'm using an old 100W p/c power amp and a cheapy active crossover to cut at 50hz (my Mackie HR624's have a steep rolloff at 50hz).

As a first tentative step in to the world of DIY speakers, and the first rung on the ladder to building a soundsystem, I reckon this has been a decent success.
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post #999 of 1012 Old 12-18-2016, 01:42 PM
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Happy Holidaze and all that jive!

Hmm, 'fat n' flabby' usually indicates a small leak or a much higher Qt driver than designed for, so which driver did you wind up with?

GM

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post #1000 of 1012 Old 12-18-2016, 01:55 PM
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Hey

Merry Xmas and that business

I built it with a Tang Band W6-1139SIF in the end. Made most sense from a cost perspective for a first build.

Quality of the audio could be anything to be honest. Trying to get objective 'good' sound from this room is nigh on impossible. The sealing may be an issue, in that I used Silicone, as opposed to a hardened glue. Again, made more sense so I can actually take it apart if need be. I didn't solder in the connections either, because, too eager.

WRT Qt for the driver - not a clue. I just wanted to build something rather than get hamstrung with trying to do it perfectly and never doing it (open dictionary, find entry for noob, reads: me.)

Bloody did it though Gotta say, it was very far from a simple build. Loads of fun though
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post #1001 of 1012 Old 12-18-2016, 06:55 PM
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OK, my memory caught me out yet again as I posted originally that this cab was a bit too large and what to do about it if need be: Reed Exodus Anarchy 25hz Tapped Horn

At least it's performing ~ as predicted, so apparently you done good!

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post #1002 of 1012 Old 12-18-2016, 07:25 PM
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It would be kind of a 'pain' to do with the tools on hand, but adding another driver 'fills up' the cab real nice n' 'tight' and allows up to 160 W in music [transient peak] power from 50 Hz up to its usable ~120 Hz.

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post #1003 of 1012 Old 12-19-2016, 09:19 AM
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I think I'm going to build a second one (because, symmetry) and use this first one as a 'control' for playing with damping and other bits and bobs. I currently have no frame of reference, so that'll solve that. I've been trying get my head around t/s parameters and hornresp, but... oof.

I take heart from finding this tucked away on the web today r.e. the Tang Band drivers. According to http://www.diysoundgroup.com/anarchy-th.html (when they had kits available to buy) the Tang Band's will work OK - granted this may just be 2nd hand info, who knows (see image, text highlighted).

Dave

n.b. here's all the t/s params for posterity:

Exodus Anarchy
Re: 6.4 Ohm (for 8 ohm model)
Le: 0.84 mH
Fs: 45.8 Hz
Qms: 6.37
Qes: 0.48
Qts: 0.44
Mmd: 29.4
Mms: 30.25
Cms: 0.4 mm/N
Vas: 9.61 L (0.34 ft.³)
Sd: 131 cm²
BL 10.79
SPL: 84.7 dB/1W/1m
Xmax: 12 mm

—-

Tang Band W6-1139SIF
Re: 3.6 Ohms (4 Ohm)
Le: 0.47 mH
Fs: 35 Hz
Qms: 2.65
Qes: 0.47
Qts: 0.4
Mmd:
Mms: 39.91g
Cms: 0.6 mm/N
Vas: 0.42 ft.³ (11.89 L)
Sd: 140 cm²
BL 8.47 Tm
SPL:
Xmax: 11.5
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post #1004 of 1012 Old 12-21-2016, 10:52 PM
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There's some tidbits about damping THs here: Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit

No, your TBs sim just like your description/my original response. Not sure if any have been built, just this post about which TB was a good replacement:
Reed Exodus Anarchy 25hz Tapped Horn

Here's yours, notice the greater dip in the response, i.e. more under-damped, hence the 'fat' sound [attached].

Re Hornresp, have you read these:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1211856

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1212465

There's many sites explaining T/S theory, application, so got any specific Qs/'stumbling blocks'?

GM
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post #1005 of 1012 Old 12-22-2016, 07:51 AM
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Hi GPM,

Thanks loads for taking the time to reply. I've taken a look through the links and also a bunch of wider reading. The Danley one at
342 pages and 10,000+ posts is going to take some time...

I've got a lot to learn.

The plot you have attached makes sense with what I am hearing (thank you for doing this by the way, its much appreciated). I'm using a 24 dB/oct Linkwitz-Riley active crossover with a 25Hz low cut and rolling off at 50-55hz to match my monitors so in the grand scheme of things the frequency band I'm using the sub(s) for is very narrow.

To be fair, I'm primarily a dj with a penchant for bass heavy music, rather than an audiophile looking for the last word in HT clarity and performance. I'm going to go and learn as much as I can.

Happy holidays!
Dave

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post #1006 of 1012 Old 12-22-2016, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveDoe View Post
...I'm using a 24 dB/oct Linkwitz-Riley active crossover with a 25Hz low cut and rolling off at 50-55hz to match my monitors so in the grand scheme of things the frequency band I'm using the sub(s) for is very narrow.

To be fair, I'm primarily a dj with a penchant for bass heavy music...
As long as you know you're narrowing the response, have at it! You might consider pulling back on the Mackies to fully utilize the sub's flat frequency range. Less excursion from the monitors is usually a good thing, when there's a lower distortion option available.

I find that flat response is a good place to start if you have a specific taste. EQ the system however you want, within excursion limits, and it'll sound much better than other approaches. Horn subs are hard to beat.

Have fun,
Frank
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post #1007 of 1012 Old 12-25-2016, 10:16 AM
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Hi,

Thanks for the reply. The Mackies have the option of a built in 80hz cutoff, so I've been playing with that (as well as the various room modes)

In the meantime, I may have sorted a way of getting my hands on a pair of the Anarchy Woofers. With a bit of luck, if that comes off I can do this properly. Here's hoping.

D.

Last edited by DaveDoe; 01-04-2017 at 02:11 PM. Reason: Because I did more reading and answered my own dumb question
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post #1008 of 1012 Old 01-26-2017, 02:03 PM
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Will be finishing up my Classix II desktop speakers this weekend. If I feel I need a sub to tag along side I think this will be my build powered by a cheap 75-100w dayton plate amp maybe.
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post #1009 of 1012 Old 01-27-2017, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Sickened1 View Post
Will be finishing up my Classix II desktop speakers this weekend. If I feel I need a sub to tag along side I think this will be my build powered by a cheap 75-100w dayton plate amp maybe.
I would recommend 2. I built one for my listening room, and immediately wanted another. Building 2 at the same time saves time and gives the best result. The cost is still under $300.
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post #1010 of 1012 Old 01-27-2017, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by mforys View Post
I would recommend 2. I built one for my listening room, and immediately wanted another. Building 2 at the same time saves time and gives the best result. The cost is still under $300.
I debated that, but i'll have to see what my classix are gonna do when they are finished. It's a small area that i'm trying to fill and i'll be at or under 1m away when in use. This is a desktop setup i'll be using for music/netflix for the GF when she's doing homework and music/gaming for me. My desk will be in that little offset area you see.

I THINK, i still need to measrure, I'll be able to squeez one between the side of the desk and the wall of the cove. If I can fit 2, ill absolutely put one on each side with the classix on top of em
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post #1011 of 1012 Old 07-09-2017, 01:41 PM
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Hey, quick question:

I'm going to get some wood CNC cut based on these plans, as I've run out of steam doing everything by hand. I've got two options on baltic birch 12mm or 15mm, which is the one to go for? (1/2 inch isn't a thing in UK, because, metric). 12.7mm is half an inch. The test one I built using a tang band driver used 12mm and is OK...

Bit of an update. I've ended up through the looking glass, building a full sound system. Highs, mids, bass and subs - all designed and built from scratch (bar these subs). I've geeked out and Learnt a lot along the way, still learning. I've managed to get a pair of anarchy woofers shipped over to the UK during this time. That's a story in itself. Building 2 more of these tapped horns will be the final piece to the puzzle. I'll post up pics when its all done and dusted.
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post #1012 of 1012 Old 07-12-2017, 05:51 PM
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If any one lives near Clarksville TN. I have two of the drivers for this build
thanks rmlowz
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