21" Maelstrom Curved Box Build - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 734 Old 05-18-2010, 10:44 AM
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Those feet look really nice.

How did you shape them?

The only likely way to damage them that I can think of is if you were sliding them and hit a protrusion.

Noah
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post #362 of 734 Old 05-18-2010, 10:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Noah,
I brad nailed a couple of squares of plywood into the base so that I could hold it in a vise. Then I carved it with an angle grinder with a sanding wheel.
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post #363 of 734 Old 05-18-2010, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corock View Post

Thanks Noah,
I brad nailed a couple of squares of plywood into the base so that I could hold it in a vise. Then I carved it with an angle grinder with a sanding wheel.

You did it freehand?!

Good job, you're a craftsman, as opposed to a mere tool user like me.

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post #364 of 734 Old 05-18-2010, 11:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes I did it freehand. That also means its not perfectly symetrical, so each foot will be "unique".
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post #365 of 734 Old 05-18-2010, 01:04 PM
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I'm impressed too. You could put the feet on top to look like eyebrows.
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post #366 of 734 Old 05-18-2010, 02:56 PM
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You're still building the perfect sub over here huh? Very impressive. Each time I see your progress I'm more impressed than the last. Truly a great work of art here.
You should check out my egg build. It's no where near as nice as what you are doing, but it's a fun build.
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post #367 of 734 Old 05-18-2010, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corock View Post

Yes I did it freehand. That also means its not perfectly symetrical, so each foot will be "unique".

That way you can avoid "standing waves".
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post #368 of 734 Old 05-18-2010, 11:28 PM - Thread Starter
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All 4 feet are done and I'm pretty happy with how they look.





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post #369 of 734 Old 05-19-2010, 03:18 AM
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Tap yourself on the back sunshine, that looks like the bee's knee's, what we all like to know is what does it sound like ?
Rob
p.s. looking at it again i am very imprressed
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post #370 of 734 Old 05-19-2010, 06:17 AM
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Hey corock, are you going to blend the feet into the base? Or blend the base into the feet? How about blending the bass into the bottom end? (it's early and i've got a hangover, i should not be posting)
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post #371 of 734 Old 05-19-2010, 07:00 AM
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You could not have picked a better design for the feet imo. Perfect.

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post #372 of 734 Old 05-19-2010, 07:04 AM
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Yikes! It's looking fantastic.
Must feel good to be hitting the home stretch. Any ETA on when it will get tested? I assume that the marble top is the hold up?
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post #373 of 734 Old 05-19-2010, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corock View Post

All 4 feet are done and I'm pretty happy with how they look.

Very nice. I like them as they are, but do wonder (as Detach50 hints at) if you tried them flush with the side / front / back edges and not inset?
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post #374 of 734 Old 05-19-2010, 08:10 AM
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I prefer them inset a little bit. I think it adds a little depth and had more visual interest.

Dumb enough to spend lots of cash on this junk!
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post #375 of 734 Old 05-19-2010, 08:14 AM
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I like them inset a bit too. Gives them extra style. Will they get epoxy on them or another color?
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post #376 of 734 Old 05-19-2010, 09:14 AM
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besides knowing the hours you have applied building this great speaker, it would be interesting to see all the scrap material in one pile,, there would be wood scraps, sandpaper, destroyed tools/blades, bags and containers from purchased items and saw dust plus a few I have not thought of,,

in my younger years I worked in a large metal shop and could not imagine the material we pitched during and after a project build,, we would salvage the larger items but that was probably less than 10% of what was pitched,,

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post #377 of 734 Old 05-19-2010, 09:23 AM
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I like the feet, but my vote is that they be mounted flush with the edges of the sub.
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post #378 of 734 Old 05-19-2010, 10:52 AM
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"All 4 feet are done and I'm pretty happy with how they look."

They look great!

Nice as they look on their own, there's a visual synergy I didn't expect when under the cabs\\.

I also like them inset.

Noah
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post #379 of 734 Old 05-19-2010, 11:02 AM - Thread Starter
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I am going to leave them inset. I thought about putting them flush but that would require mounting them then sanding 'em and the cab to make it like one. Since the cab is already sealed I have no interest in sanding it again. I'm also going to seal them with epoxy so that they are the same color as the cab.

The feet are not going to look quite that good in the front because there will be a face plate (you mave have noticed the magnets). So they'll be set back from that which will kill the symmetry a bit, but I don't think there is a way around that.

The granite top is going to be the hold up because I can't even make a template for it until I have the enclosure finished so that I have exact measurements. I personally don't see the point of hooking it up and driving it without the top plate because that's not what its going to be like in the end anyway.
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post #380 of 734 Old 05-19-2010, 05:43 PM
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Well, you could have produced a sealed top layer so that we could quit bugging you about how this thing performs! We'll wait until that granite gets done, but I honestly think you could have been best served by sealing it with at least a 1/2" plywood top coat that sat below the weighting of the stone. The sealing may have been easier, and more successful.
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post #381 of 734 Old 05-19-2010, 06:27 PM
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I assumed you would have a top plate of plywood to seal the sub then the granite on top of that, is the granite going to be used to seal the sub's top as well?

You would be best served to use the plywood top to seal the sub then add a layer of silicon on top, let it dry completely, then have the granite just rest on top. The granite would then be just decorative and you can remove the granite when you want to move the sub. I am pretty sure I heard this from NEO Dan and it is a great suggestion.

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post #382 of 734 Old 05-19-2010, 07:23 PM - Thread Starter
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I designed it with using just the granite as the top plate; the cabs dimensions are drawn up that way. I didn't even consider putting a full board underneath it. I was focused on maximizing the internal volume within certain specs and sometimes the obvious escapes me. I'll forge ahead as planned unless the granite guys tell me they can't get a seal between the granite and wood. I don't have any experience with it but I assume since granite is a flat surface and you can get a strong bond to it, that would create a seal. As well the giant hole in the front will give me enough room to epoxy the seam between the wood and granite.

The binding posts are ready to rock.


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post #383 of 734 Old 05-20-2010, 06:38 AM
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Did you put those posts on the top? I guess you'll have holes cut into the granit to match?
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post #384 of 734 Old 05-20-2010, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gmichael2 View Post

Did you put those posts on the top? I guess you'll have holes cut into the granit to match?

I'm guessing thats the bottom, since he doesn't have the top on yet.

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post #385 of 734 Old 05-20-2010, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gmichael2 View Post

Did you put those posts on the top? I guess you'll have holes cut into the granit to match?

no, he just took a picture of the enclosure upside down. If you look at the pic looking down into the sub you can see that it's open at the bottom of the picture
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post #386 of 734 Old 05-20-2010, 06:58 AM
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So the feet give it clearence. OK. I get it now.
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post #387 of 734 Old 05-20-2010, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corock View Post

I designed it with using just the granite as the top plate; the cabs dimensions are drawn up that way....

Using another layer of plywood as the top wouldn't change those internal dimensions. Generally, granite is simply adhered to whatever using silicone sealant. This will probably work for you here, but I would worry about the amount of pressure within the enclosure blowing through the sealant. As mentioned above, if you seal it with another layer of plywood, you wouldn't need to worry about this, and the enclosure would be more easily moved about without that additional weight of the granite.
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post #388 of 734 Old 05-20-2010, 08:12 AM - Thread Starter
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The internal volume wouldn't change but the external dimensions would. I designed this from day one to maximze the interval volume while keeping within certain external dimensions. Adding another layer of plywood would increase the distance between the curvature of the cone and the top of the box. It wouldn't be as aestetically pleasing to the eye. I originally went from 34 layers of plywood to 32 just for this reason. I could remove the very top layer and replace it with a full board, but that would be a ridiculous amount of work.

It may seem like my only focus is aestetics, but that is not the case. I'm working on the principle that one 7 cu ft sealed cab will sound just like the next. When I decided that I had to go with a 7 cu ft sealed enclosure (the smallest you could go with the driver IMO), I was determined to make it the nicest 7 cu ft sealed enclosure I could.

Being able to take the granite off to move it would be a nice feature, but probably one I can live without. I'm hoping that sealing the inside seam between the box and granite with epoxy will prevent the silicone from being blown out. I wish I had thought of the full board on top to seal it earlier on but I think its too late now.

The posts are sticking out the bottom and the feet give me enough clearance for banana plugs
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post #389 of 734 Old 05-20-2010, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corock View Post

T

Being able to take the granite off to move it would be a nice feature, but probably one I can live without. I'm hoping that sealing the inside seam between the box and granite with epoxy will prevent the silicone from being blown out. I wish I had thought of the full board on top to seal it earlier on but I think its too late now.

The posts are sticking out the bottom and the feet give me enough clearance for banana plugs

My understanding from a kitchen remodel (we have granite countertops) is that silicone adhesive really bonds granite to wood very well. I'm guessing you won't have a problem.

You're kinda' amazing with the grinder, the feet look really good.
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post #390 of 734 Old 05-20-2010, 08:44 AM
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I cant imagine that the silicone would blow out, once its good and cured. If you were really concerned you could probably use a two part epoxy adhesive that would dry rock hard.

Does the granite overhang the cabinet or sit flush? Are you planning on caulking the seam between the granite and cabinet or are you confident everything sits true enough you wont need to?

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