21" Maelstrom Curved Box Build - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 735 Old 03-28-2010, 05:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

someone just raided home depot for clamps =]

Actually, thankfully Princess Auto has good inexpensive clamps, I cleaned them out twice and still had to order 4. These are 1000 lb clamps, that gives me ~150 lbs per sq in.

My Maelstrom 21" curved box build

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post #32 of 735 Old 03-28-2010, 05:40 PM
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WOW

This takes dedication, layers upon layers to form a curved sub! Very time consuming but your reward should be a gorgeous one off piece to show!

Nice work and good luck with the build.

Nice choice of driver Maelstrom-X 21" I am planning two to four of these in "regular" sealed boxes.The sourround on that driver is massive,I think with the right spider,VC and motor(magnetic structure) one could extract around 50mm one way excursion.

Ask yourself mortal , do you have as much displacement as me ? The answer is no unless you have a Windmere fan sub.
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post #33 of 735 Old 03-28-2010, 06:35 PM
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This is an amazing build. Kudos!!!

Denon 4311ci with Mini DSP and antimodeL/R -DIYSOUND tempest towers (40" tall towers)C - DIYSOUND alchemy 8LS/RS - community D6MACHTSUB SYSTEM2-Stereo Integrity HST-18 D1 subs (happy dance) in dual 12 cuft ported tuned 16hzSub amp- Speakerpower SP2-12000
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post #34 of 735 Old 03-28-2010, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corock View Post

I'm only gluing one layer at a time because its too hard to get more layers to line up when they start slipping around on the glue.

Hardwood dowels used as guide pins are your friend.
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post #35 of 735 Old 03-28-2010, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post

Hardwood dowels used as guide pins are your friend.

Use 1 inch brads... if you have a pneumatic nailer.

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post #36 of 735 Old 03-28-2010, 07:28 PM - Thread Starter
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I was thinking of dowels but thought that would be as much work as doing it one layer at a time. I do have a brad nailer, i never thought of that, but for some reason I wanted to build the whole box without fasteners.

My Maelstrom 21" curved box build

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post #37 of 735 Old 03-28-2010, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corock View Post

I was thinking of dowels but thought that would be as much work as doing it one layer at a time. I do have a brad nailer, i never thought of that, but for some reason I wanted to build the whole box without fasteners.

I understand... you would only use 3 brads per layer... they would be imbedded....

Mike


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post #38 of 735 Old 03-28-2010, 07:32 PM
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what type of clear surface are you planning to apply,, I saw you wanted to french polish it,,?? I have two classical guitars that are FP and it is a very sensitive finish to maintain,, agree on some form of clear to show all that ply,,

interesting design and very nice looking,,

would think 100+LBS of lead in the bottom in addition to the est weight of 60 LBS would be needed to keep that 21" from moving across the floor, perhaps more, one big sub,,

Derry

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post #39 of 735 Old 03-28-2010, 07:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Kanaris View Post

I understand... you would only use 3 brads per layer... they would be imbedded....

definately something I've got to think about

My Maelstrom 21" curved box build

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post #40 of 735 Old 03-28-2010, 08:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Derry View Post

what type of clear surface are you planning to apply,, I saw you wanted to french polish it,,?? I have two classical guitars that are FP and it is a very sensitive finish to maintain,, agree on some form of clear to show all that ply,,

interesting design and very nice looking,,

would think 100+LBS of lead in the bottom in addition to the est weight of 60 LBS would be needed to keep that 21" from moving across the floor, perhaps more, one big sub,,

Derry

Hey, someone with some practical knowledge of french polish. Please elaborate on sensitive finish to maintain.

I don't think this box will even weigh 60. I lifted a corner today and it felt more like 40. Plus 60 with the driver and fill. Will 100 lbs be to light?

My Maelstrom 21" curved box build

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post #41 of 735 Old 03-28-2010, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEAR View Post

WOW

This takes dedication, layers upon layers to form a curved sub! Very time consuming but your reward should be a gorgeous one off piece to show!

Nice work and good luck with the build.

Nice choice of driver Maelstrom-X 21" I am planning two to four of these in "regular" sealed boxes.The sourround on that driver is massive,I think with the right spider,VC and motor(magnetic structure) one could extract around 50mm one way excursion.

The cone and surround are capable of 70mm IIRC. The cone and surround were designed for the SICKO-X


nice receiver corock! I have the same one!

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post #42 of 735 Old 03-28-2010, 08:55 PM
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What Denon model is that?

Mike


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post #43 of 735 Old 03-28-2010, 09:07 PM - Thread Starter
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4308ci...love it.

My Maelstrom 21" curved box build

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post #44 of 735 Old 03-28-2010, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corock View Post

4308ci...love it.

Thats a beast....

I wanted that one ended up with the 989...

Mike


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post #45 of 735 Old 03-28-2010, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corock View Post

4308ci...love it.

oh mines 2310ci

KW, failed super hero


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post #46 of 735 Old 03-29-2010, 03:15 AM
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Yeah, I got the 3808ci... Denon Rocks. Ok, back to the sub


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<Multi sub Thread


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< Garage Audio !!!
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post #47 of 735 Old 03-29-2010, 04:39 AM
 
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The cutting was a bit of a pain, but it was fun watching the shape of the enclosure form. I estimate I cut about 7000 inches with a jig saw. There are 32 layers, makes it 23.5" high x 24" wide x 30" deep.

I'm only gluing one layer at a time because its too hard to get more layers to line up when they start slipping around on the glue.

If you have enough clamps glue several pairs together in sets and then you can glue two at a time to the box. You can cut your gluing time drastically that way. You could even glue some of the pairs together and add four layers at a time. You can also start from the top down and then add the two halves together. The easiest would be to clamp a section and then brad nail (as others said) and then quickly add another section letting both dry. I still like the idea of no fasteners and gluing multiple pairs.

Added
Very nice build.
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post #48 of 735 Old 03-29-2010, 08:05 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm working from the middle out, because of the staggered sections of the cone. I've decided to use the brad nail suggestion. I glue and nail one layer on, then flip the unit over and glue and nail its opposite layer on, then throw on the clamps. Let it set for 30-45 min and repeat. That's really cutting down the total time of the process. I rationalize with myself that the 3 brad nails aren't fasteners, but alignment aids, lol.

My Maelstrom 21" curved box build

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post #49 of 735 Old 03-29-2010, 09:05 AM
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here is the french polish site we classical guitarist refer to for advice on how to,,

http://www.milburnguitars.com/frenchpolish.html

if the surface is not fairly smooth to begin with the FP effect will most likely not be achieved as so much grain and other surface conditions will always print through,, FP is micro thin,,

as for longevity, even the light perspiration from my arm on the surface erodes and dulls the finish,,

it is undoubtedly one of the best finishes for allowing the wood to transmit sound vibrations but also one of the hardest to maintain at a like new finish,,

you might want to see if there are any luthiers (guitar makers) in your area that do FP and contact them to discuss their thoughts,,

it does take time to learn the skill of application for a proper outcome,,

many people see the smooth finish on a piano and think it is FP but really very smooth wood with some form of acrylic or polymer spray coating,,

the 100 LBS most likely will not be adequate depending on the volume,, I know my SVS pb 13 ultra can walk a clock across the top of it when playing at moderate levels and it weights 155 LBS,,

Derry

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post #50 of 735 Old 03-29-2010, 10:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the link Derry. Getting the wood extra smooth isn't an issue, especially the ends of the ply. They can be sanded as smooth as glass and very hard. The maintenance does concern me however. You've given me something to think about.

As far as the weight of the enclosure goes. I'm going to leave it for now. I can always add weight later.

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post #51 of 735 Old 03-29-2010, 11:26 AM
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Very cool design.

Pricey, but this looks like a nice shaping tool

http://www.woodworkingshop.com/cgi-b...adItem=KX47853

If you like a finish that doesn't darken the wood or that would make the plies "stripey" looking, I like Varathane Diamond Finish (water based).

Noah
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post #52 of 735 Old 03-29-2010, 11:28 AM
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Are you planning to let the exposed plywood endgrain show?I think it can be made to look beautiful.

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post #53 of 735 Old 03-29-2010, 11:40 AM
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Are you planning to let the exposed plywood endgrain show?I think it can be made to look beautiful.

I agree. Beutiful idea & execution!
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post #54 of 735 Old 03-29-2010, 12:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Are you planning to let the exposed plywood endgrain show?I think it can be made to look beautiful.

I am planning on having the end grain show. I had never seen Magico speakers before but someone on my build thread pointed them out to me. Same concept and they look beautiful.

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post #55 of 735 Old 03-29-2010, 05:00 PM
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I am planning on having the end grain show. I had never seen Magico speakers before but someone on my build thread pointed them out to me. Same concept and they look beautiful.

That may have been me. Magico are beautiful speakers! I can't wait to see how yours turn out.


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post #56 of 735 Old 03-29-2010, 05:09 PM
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if you can get the wood very smooth I would recommend a urethane spray for the final coat,, extremely durable and can be glass smooth,, those edges in their natural color would look outstanding and show off your fine craftsmanship,,

Derry

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post #57 of 735 Old 03-29-2010, 06:09 PM
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Very nice work so far! Yours is a different and unique build for sure.
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post #58 of 735 Old 03-29-2010, 07:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Derry View Post

if you can get the wood very smooth I would recommend a urethane spray for the final coat,, extremely durable and can be glass smooth,, those edges in their natural color would look outstanding and show off your fine craftsmanship,,

Derry

Do you think natural is the way to go? I thought it was kinda pale and might need to be darkened a bit, kinda like the clamp handles.

There's a clamp party at my place...byoc.


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post #59 of 735 Old 03-30-2010, 07:32 AM
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take some of your scrap material to make a plate for testing, you should have plenty,,

most clear coats are going to add some warmth and color change to the blandness of bare plywood,, depending on what other furniture you have if your tying to match a very light amount of tint could be applied and still reveal all those layers of effort,,

Derry

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post #60 of 735 Old 03-30-2010, 09:28 AM
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Why does this build look so familiar to me?

My Maelstrom-18" EGG build.
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