Official Rythmik Audio DIY Subwoofer Kit thread - Page 10 - AVS Forum
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post #271 of 341 Old 06-02-2013, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

^^^ They look great JW!
I would primer the entire box (multiple coats as necessary) and then dust on a black guide coat. Block sand and then a couple coats of black and then clear.

- Give us a shot of the inside front and back - they are coming along well.

Cheers.

My bracing is minimal....I'm thinking it's adequate.
Grey Primer is next.


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post #272 of 341 Old 06-03-2013, 09:41 AM
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^^^
Awesome, and I would agree that your bracing is good. Any more given the size would probably prove to be overkill.

Very clean and nice looking work! Like you mentioned, definitely fun and enjoyable builds - I have a hanker'n to buy more kits not because I need more subwoofers - I just want to build another design..biggrin.gif.

Highly recommend 8-32 Hurricane nuts and bolts for both driver and amp.

Cheers

Love DIY
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post #273 of 341 Old 06-03-2013, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwcole1224 View Post

My F12 clone. I'm going to do (attempt) a black lacquer finish.
Three days, on and off, to seal the seams.
Now the primer.

But....Really having a great time working on it!!!!


Very nice JW! May I ask what product you used to cover the seams?
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post #274 of 341 Old 06-03-2013, 03:08 PM
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My attempt on sealing the edges and hiding the seams:

I first tried a mixture of glue and water, but that didn't seem that effective.

I had some Elmers wood rot repair stuff on the shelf so I tried that straight from the container; applied liberally with a damp cloth to all exposed edges and seams. Let it dry and sand smooth.

http://www.elmers.com/product/detail/E9023

Then I applied multiple coats of BIN Primer from Zinsser, lightly sanding and checking seams after each coat.
I used up two cans in the process.

I've applied my first coat of Grey primer and the material edges and seams look great.

Will it last? I really don't know.
I'm just guessing here, LOL.

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post #275 of 341 Old 06-03-2013, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwcole1224 View Post

My attempt on sealing the edges and hiding the seams:

I first tried a mixture of glue and water, but that didn't seem that effective.

I had some Elmers wood rot repair stuff on the shelf so I tried that straight from the container; applied liberally with a damp cloth to all exposed edges and seams. Let it dry and sand smooth.

http://www.elmers.com/product/detail/E9023

Then I applied multiple coats of BIN Primer from Zinsser, lightly sanding and checking seams after each coat.
I used up two cans in the process.

I've applied my first coat of Grey primer and the material edges and seams look great.

Will it last? I really don't know.
I'm just guessing here, LOL.

I painted cars in my past thus havent used it in awhile yet they have spot putty/filler in a tube that works great. Basically its the consistancy of tooth paste and can be applied with a rubber squeegee. More or less is thick primer. Works perfgect for this type of application - apply primer, sand, apply spot putty, sand - repeat if necessary and primer.

Your product is fine as well. Just chat'n. biggrin.gif

Love DIY
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post #276 of 341 Old 06-04-2013, 12:41 PM
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Kit arrived from Rythmik Audio this morning.
Wow, I'm really impressed with the look of the amp.

Just about finished with final prep, a few defects in the baffle needed repair.
I use joint compound to fill the minor/shallow imperfections.

Still about a week out before final assembly. (I'm slow)
I hope the actual lacquer finish goes well. (fingers crossed)


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post #277 of 341 Old 06-04-2013, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwcole1224 View Post

My attempt on sealing the edges and hiding the seams:

I first tried a mixture of glue and water, but that didn't seem that effective.

I had some Elmers wood rot repair stuff on the shelf so I tried that straight from the container; applied liberally with a damp cloth to all exposed edges and seams. Let it dry and sand smooth.

http://www.elmers.com/product/detail/E9023

Then I applied multiple coats of BIN Primer from Zinsser, lightly sanding and checking seams after each coat.
I used up two cans in the process.

I've applied my first coat of Grey primer and the material edges and seams look great.

Will it last? I really don't know.
I'm just guessing here, LOL.

Is it the spray version of Zinsser primer, or liquid brush/roll on? Thanks again.
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post #278 of 341 Old 06-04-2013, 12:53 PM
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I used the spray can version.
Same for the grey primer, I used Rustoleum Filler Primer.
BTW, the spray pattern on the Rustoleum is too narrow, making it difficult to put down an even coat.
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Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post

Is it the spray version of Zinsser primer, or liquid brush/roll on? Thanks again.

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post #279 of 341 Old 06-05-2013, 02:22 PM
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Great, thanks. I had already gotten the Rustoleum Filler Primer, Primer Sealer, and Sandable Primer. I'll be doing mine in a less revealing Eggshell Charcoal, but the Zinsser Primer sounds like a good idea too. By the way, I read somewhere that the spray nozzle (with a red dot around the spray hole) on Elmer's spray glue will fit on Rustoleum cans, and has a nice large, even pattern. I'm going to get the Elmer's just for the nozzle!
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post #280 of 341 Old 06-05-2013, 08:45 PM
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They're BACK!

Dang, I was so sure about the seams, no sweat!! Right?
Well, I was wrong, it's not that easy, some seams are now visible.
It's been warm here the past few days, most likely related.

At least the end cuts still look good.
And I'm not going to worry about the seams, no one will see them anyway.

I practiced doing a true black lacquer finish, DANG 2, too hard, I'd never pull it off.
Going with Dupli-Color Jet Black lacquer with a clear lacquer top coat, using my HVLP gun.

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post #281 of 341 Old 06-06-2013, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwcole1224 View Post

They're BACK!

Dang, I was so sure about the seams, no sweat!! Right?
Well, I was wrong, it's not that easy, some seams are now visible.
It's been warm here the past few days, most likely related.

At least the end cuts still look good.
And I'm not going to worry about the seams, no one will see them anyway.

I practiced doing a true black lacquer finish, DANG 2, too hard, I'd never pull it off.
Going with Dupli-Color Jet Black lacquer with a clear lacquer top coat, using my HVLP gun.

You just need the right products. Wood working fillers and rattle can paint etc typically won't cut it when you're trying to achieve that type of finish. And without a booth you would have to perform either hand sand and buffing or machine buffing afterwards to achieve a piano gloss (flat without orange-peel etc.) surface/finish.

With a black base coat and multiple layers of clear you should be able to pull it off. A little 1200-2000 grit scuff and buff afterwards could make it look perfect.

Cheers

Love DIY
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post #282 of 341 Old 06-06-2013, 12:19 PM
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What would the cost be to have an auto car place put on a piano finish for JW? Maybe another primer coat to hide the seams, and then the black gloss.
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post #283 of 341 Old 06-06-2013, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post

What would the cost be to have an auto car place put on a piano finish for JW? Maybe another primer coat to hide the seams, and then the black gloss.

Thanks for the input, I thought about that too.
BTW, I've put on many coats of primer.

I'm actually enjoying the process and learning new things, so I will continue.
It won't be perfect, but not God awful either and I'm OK with that.

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post #284 of 341 Old 06-06-2013, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post

What would the cost be to have an auto car place put on a piano finish for JW? Maybe another primer coat to hide the seams, and then the black gloss.

Given his current / great prep, I would guesstimate only 2 to 3 hours of labor for the two. So probably in the $250-$350 range which may even include paint.

As I mentioned above,
Go find some "Bondo" brand "Glazzing & Spot Putty". Comes in a tube for less than $10. It will work wonders filling your seams. You put it right over primer and its very easy to use and sand.. Once you have everything filled and sanded, put one final semi heavy primer coat on, then lightly dust or fog on a very thin coat of black from a spray can (google/you-tube "guide coating"). Once dry, block sand until the guide coat is gone. What will be left is all primer and/or primer with little black lines or patches of black representing areas requiring more block sanding or possibly more spot putty etc.. Repeat.
Time for the black base coat after that. The base coat only needs enough coats for even covering. The clear coat is where you will want several layers so you can sand and buff out any runs, dust or orange peel effect etc..

Once done, don't scratch or chip either of them.. You will be extremely ticked at yourself if you do.. biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif

Love DIY
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post #285 of 341 Old 06-06-2013, 06:23 PM
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Thanks for the help.
I really do appreciate the information!!

I don't feel the seam, but I can see it.
Is there a best way to apply the Bondo Putty?

Thanks Again
Jerry
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

Given his current / great prep, I would guesstimate only 2 to 3 hours of labor for the two. So probably in the $250-$350 range which may even include paint.

As I mentioned above,
Go find some "Bondo" brand "Glazzing & Spot Putty". Comes in a tube for less than $10. It will work wonders filling your seams. You put it right over primer and its very easy to use and sand.. Once you have everything filled and sanded, put one final semi heavy primer coat on, then lightly dust or fog on a very thin coat of black from a spray can (google/you-tube "guide coating"). Once dry, block sand until the guide coat is gone. What will be left is all primer and/or primer with little black lines or patches of black representing areas requiring more block sanding or possibly more spot putty etc.. Repeat.
Time for the black base coat after that. The base coat only needs enough coats for even covering. The clear coat is where you will want several layers so you can sand and buff out any runs, dust or orange peel effect etc..

Once done, don't scratch or chip either of them.. You will be extremely ticked at yourself if you do.. biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif

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post #286 of 341 Old 06-06-2013, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwcole1224 View Post

Thanks for the help.
I really do appreciate the information!!

I don't feel the seam, but I can see it.
Is there a best way to apply the Bondo Putty?

Thanks Again
Jerry

Hi Jerry,
If you can't feel it you may be good to go. Use a block when sanding. The guide coat helps identify areas that your hand/eye may think is OK. As for the spot putty, I always used a flexible rubber squeegee. You will probably find them in the same isle as the body work supplies. They are typically black 2"x3" by 3/16 " black rubber. 3M is the brand I always used. Jump on Amazon and search for 3M rubber squeegee and you will find them. Search for a rubber sanding block as well. Both are handy items.

I initially wanted to do like you and go gloss black with my 15s yet knew it would be a lot of work "in my garage". I chickened out. However, a little spot putty and more primer and mine could be ready for paint...
I commend you for going the distance. biggrin.gif

Cheers

Love DIY
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post #287 of 341 Old 06-08-2013, 02:56 PM
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Two Thumbs UP on the Bondo Putty!!
Very smooth consistency, very easy to sand.
It will my filler of choice on all future projects.

Thanks Again

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post #288 of 341 Old 06-09-2013, 05:46 PM
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Where do you find the stuff, an auto parts store? I tried HD and Lowes to no avail.
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post #289 of 341 Old 06-09-2013, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
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Where do you find the stuff, an auto parts store? I tried HD and Lowes to no avail.

If you have time, Amazon has it. If not, I use a local automotive paint/supplies provider. That's where I would get paint from as well if painting mine for a piano gloss finish. You're going to want some pre-cleano (oil and silicone remover - wipe down between primer/paint applications), tackcloths etc.. I've seen it at Autozone and/or O'Reillys as well. Fun, fun..

Cheers

Love DIY
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post #290 of 341 Old 06-10-2013, 09:25 PM
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I found it at AutoZone 4 miles from the house. $8.99 for the big 1lb. tube. I googled a bunch on body fillers, and the car guys don't think much of the Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, prefering Evercoat 2-part non-epoxy filler. I bought the Bondo anyway (nobody seems to stock Evercoat---online only), thinking for cars it might not do, but sub enclosures are less demanding (I'm hoping!). Thanks for the help guys.
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post #291 of 341 Old 06-11-2013, 09:29 AM
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I've been preaching on glazing putty for a long time now.
Glad to see someone else putting out the word.
Easy to work with and hides seams excellent.
Heres 2 pcs of 1/2" MDF bound together, with a round over and
glazing putty applied....coat, sand coat and sand.



Couldnt do this type of work without it....at least at my house

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post #292 of 341 Old 06-11-2013, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post

I found it at AutoZone 4 miles from the house. $8.99 for the big 1lb. tube. I googled a bunch on body fillers, and the car guys don't think much of the Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, prefering Evercoat 2-part non-epoxy filler. I bought the Bondo anyway (nobody seems to stock Evercoat---online only), thinking for cars it might not do, but sub enclosures are less demanding (I'm hoping!). Thanks for the help guys.

You are correct,
Bondo brand may not be the best but works and is readily available. As I mentioned above, if you have a professional automotive paint/paint-collision supplies supplier near you that is where I would go. That's pretty much the only place to find the professional grade products the shops use etc. We always stocked the 3M products.

My last suggestion for any spot putty/glaze use is to let the final coat and primer dry/cure real well before sanding - out in the sun/heat wouldn't hurt. Regardless of the brand you can get some shrinkage, more so with "thicker or heavier" fills/applications.

Cheers

Love DIY
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post #293 of 341 Old 06-11-2013, 07:59 PM
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I talked to the manager of the nearest Ace Hardware store today, after doing a search on the Ace national website and finding the Evercoat Formula 27 listed. It's a 2-part non-epoxy polyester body filler which is particularly suited for wood. Half-pint, pint, and quarts offered by Everclear, half-pint and pint listed on Ace's site. Not available online, and not stocked at their stores, but your Ace store may order as little as one can of the stuff, like mine did.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry R View Post

I've been preaching on glazing putty for a long time now.
Glad to see someone else putting out the word.
Easy to work with and hides seams excellent.
Heres 2 pcs of 1/2" MDF bound together, with a round over and
glazing putty applied....coat, sand coat and sand.



Couldnt do this type of work without it....at least at my house

[/quote

Perry, your seams look perfect (actually, they don't look good. You can't see them!). What type/brand do you use?
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post #295 of 341 Old 06-11-2013, 08:22 PM
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Where do u buy the kit?
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post #296 of 341 Old 06-11-2013, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post

I talked to the manager of the nearest Ace Hardware store today, after doing a search on the Ace national website and finding the Evercoat Formula 27 listed. It's a 2-part non-epoxy polyester body filler which is particularly suited for wood. Half-pint, pint, and quarts offered by Everclear, half-pint and pint listed on Ace's site. Not available online, and not stocked at their stores, but your Ace store may order as little as one can of the stuff, like mine did.

That's a completely different product than the spot putty. You would want to apply that directly to the wood, not on the primer like a putty/glaze. The Formula 27 is better suited for larger imperfections. Be careful sanding as well. The 27 could be harder to sand than the MDF. May work well on hardwoods yet could be a pita on MDF.

Cheers

Love DIY
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post #297 of 341 Old 06-13-2013, 11:11 AM
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Getting closer....
But realizing how little skill I have when it comes to putting down paint on a flat surface.

Going to do a little wet sanding to remove some dust and then apply clear coat.


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post #298 of 341 Old 06-13-2013, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
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Perry, your seams look perfect (actually, they don't look good. You can't see them!). What type/brand do you use?

I'm outta town till Friday, I'll check when I get home. I comes in a tube or small can.....just cant think of the brand name
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post #299 of 341 Old 06-13-2013, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwcole1224 View Post

Getting closer....
But realizing how little skill I have when it comes to putting down paint on a flat surface.

Going to do a little wet sanding to remove some dust and then apply clear coat.



It looks pretty good in that pic.
Light coats and light sanding between......it just seems like it takes for ever...wink.gif
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post #300 of 341 Old 06-14-2013, 01:55 AM
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I'm outta town till Friday, I'll check when I get home. I comes in a tube or small can.....just cant think of the brand name

Great, thanks.
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