Official Rythmik Audio DIY Subwoofer Kit thread - Page 14 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #391 of 399 Old 02-18-2016, 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by bob_m10 View Post
I was looking over the plans for the DS1200 for down firing sealed configuration. The baffle is made of two layers, why do we need to recess the driver and attach to the inner baffle? Why not just cut the same size hole in both baffles and mount to the outside. Since it is down firing you will never see the driver? Bob

The recessed driver mounting is just for aesthetics, a carry over from the design of the front-firing enclosure. Mounting the woofer on a double-thick baffle is actually better, it being less resonant and that resonance at a frequency further above the passband of the driver, than that of a single baffle thickness. Just make the legs an extra 3/4" or so taller to compensate. I built my front-firing enclosures with double-thickness baffles (1.5") and the woofers recessed into a third 3/4" layer of MDF, just to make sure!
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post #392 of 399 Old 02-18-2016, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post
The recessed driver mounting is just for aesthetics, a carry over from the design of the front-firing enclosure. Mounting the woofer on a double-thick baffle is actually better, it being less resonant and that resonance at a frequency further above the passband of the driver, than that of a single baffle thickness. Just make the legs an extra 3/4" or so taller to compensate. I built my front-firing enclosures with double-thickness baffles (1.5") and the woofers recessed into a third 3/4" layer of MDF, just to make sure!
I think I am may do that, put them both together and cut one large hole. I have read that if I do that, I should chamfer out the back of the baffle a bit to allow good air flow around the back of the driver, does that make sense?

With the jasper jig, could I actually dado out say 1/4" of the top baffle by using increasing larger circles?
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post #393 of 399 Old 02-18-2016, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by bob_m10 View Post
I think I am may do that, put them both together and cut one large hole. I have read that if I do that, I should chamfer out the back of the baffle a bit to allow good air flow around the back of the driver, does that make sense?

With the jasper jig, could I actually dado out say 1/4" of the top baffle by using increasing larger circles?

Yep, the Jasper will do that, but if you mount the woofer with the rubber flange ring removed, the recess should be 3/8" deep rather 1/4". With the ring left on, I believe it needs to be 1/2" deep. For the backside, at subwoofer frequencies a chamfer is not necessary, but doesn't hurt either, so why not!
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post #394 of 399 Old 02-23-2016, 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post
Yep, the Jasper will do that, but if you mount the woofer with the rubber flange ring removed, the recess should be 3/8" deep rather 1/4". With the ring left on, I believe it needs to be 1/2" deep. For the backside, at subwoofer frequencies a chamfer is not necessary, but doesn't hurt either, so why not!
Thanks for your help, can you verify that the cutout for the 1201 is 11-3/16"? Bob
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post #395 of 399 Old 02-24-2016, 07:43 AM
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Thanks for your help, can you verify that the cutout for the 1201 is 11-3/16"? Bob

Sorry, no. I just moved 1100 miles, and all my stuff is in storage at the moment. An email or call to Rythmik should get you that info.
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post #396 of 399 Old 05-31-2016, 05:06 AM
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Has anyone built a 1501 kit with the HX800 amp? I have built 2 enclosed cabinets with this kit and seem to be having some confusion on the wiring of this particular amp. I am just curious if anyone else has any experience with particular amp?

Thanks

Don
Marantz AV8802a, Emotiva XPA-1l x4,Emotiva MPS-2. SVS PC12 Plus, Magnapan 3.7i, Magnepan CC5,Magnepan MC1,JVC RS400, DIY 125" 2:35 Elite Screen cinegray 3d .
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post #397 of 399 Old 07-25-2016, 03:38 PM
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There is a discrepancy on the sealed DS1200 plan. For the driver cutout, one sheet calls out 11 3/16" and another calls out 11 3/8". Does anyone know which is the correct dimension?
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post #398 of 399 Old 07-28-2016, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by AuralFission View Post
There is a discrepancy on the sealed DS1200 plan. For the driver cutout, one sheet calls out 11 3/16" and another calls out 11 3/8". Does anyone know which is the correct dimension?

3/8".
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post #399 of 399 Old 09-03-2016, 11:32 AM
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OK, I have finally made it through this entire thread, lots of great info and some awesome workmanship here.
I plan on building a pair of FVX15 clones, (1501 drivers and the HX400 amps).

Here's the thing, I want to alter the plan for the vented box on Rythmik's site to make as small of a footprint as possible, and make up the volume with height.

Question 1. Would I be able to have the 1501 and both ports in downfire configuration?

Question 2. If that is possible, does the height of the legs need to change?

Question 3. Would anyone advise against making narrowest dimension on the face of the cabinet where the driver is mounted 16"? (which would leave 11/32" on outer, each side) Or does the driver need more 'breathing room' in the interior?

Question 4. Is there a way to tell if the port would be out of phase with the driver at any given distance from the driver?

Apologies if this has been answered before elsewhere, I'm just trying to make sure there's no flaw with my plan before I actually make it.

Thanks in advance..
-Steve

Actually, I love tube amps..
I play guitars through them.

Last edited by wreckingball; 09-03-2016 at 11:51 AM.
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