Wolfhorn SDX Design Finished - Page 12 - AVS Forum
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post #331 of 351 Old 02-22-2013, 12:49 PM
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I am not so sane myself and am afraid of a possible back feed that would nuke your brain.eek.gif

I really should give it a try, but I lack so much of the other related knowledge that adds to the steep curve, not to mention lack of time to devote as well.

I am glad there are folks like you that don't mind sharing.wink.gif

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post #332 of 351 Old 02-22-2013, 08:42 PM
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I am not sure any of us on this board are completely sane. smile.gif "Normal" people think a single 12" sub is overkill and 15" drivers in speakers a luditte failure to understand the bass/mid capabilities of modern 5" drivers that can be sourced from China for $3.

Note: I am not a clinical psychologist, psychiatrist, and did not stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night (no big western chain hotels exist in Cambodia, better come for a visit soon - a Hyatt will be openning soon to destroy the charm of lodging options in the developing world).

A man who has nothing which he is willing to fight for, nothing which he cares more about than he does about his personal safety, is a miserable creature who has no chance of being free.

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post #333 of 351 Old 11-03-2013, 02:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Minor update. I now have a Radio Shack SPL meter freshly Wallins modded. Here's a few sweeps of both my horns in room. The louder ones had stuff rattling in room - keep that in mind. Could use some EQ over and above the nothing I'm getting from the Reckhorn B-2, so I am going MiniDSP at last.

Most dips are no surprise to me. What is a surprise is the relatively decent extension to 130Hz or so, and the big peak at 15Hz (which by the way I love). I've still got these beasts crossed at 80Hz, so I'm leaving a lot on the table above that it seems.

Remember, only one horn is the SDX design - the other is the dual Tang Band, which still sounds too good to knock down and replace with another SDX unit. It would just be a waste of wood to kill it.



And with the B-2's measured response added:



All captures done with the Behringer UCA222.
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post #334 of 351 Old 11-04-2013, 06:02 AM
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Nice Wolf.

Let the tweaking begin!

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post #335 of 351 Old 12-02-2013, 11:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Added the Sundown E-10 D2 to the list of driver alternates. As always, I have not verified its compatibility firsthand, so go with it at your own risk.

Models about as well as the TC Epic 10 does, assuming published specs are accurate. The driver really wants a smaller design, but should work well enough if the SDX10 isn't available at the time you're reading this.
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post #336 of 351 Old 12-18-2013, 08:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks to the addition of a tool in Hornresp to simulate filtering, I am now recommending a 14Hz 48db/octave highpass for this design using a MiniDSP. Allows one to get the absolute most out of the horn without too much pesky distortion caused by operating too far below the corner. Should just about eliminate the chance of bottoming out the drivers, too.
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post #337 of 351 Old 12-18-2013, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oklahoma Wolf View Post

Thanks to the addition of a tool in Hornresp to simulate filtering, I am now recommending a 14Hz 48db/octave highpass for this design using a MiniDSP. Allows one to get the absolute most out of the horn without too much pesky distortion caused by operating too far below the corner. Should just about eliminate the chance of bottoming out the drivers, too.

Nice, every tidbit of info helps those considering the design. smile.gif

Thanks for posting the update(s).

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post #338 of 351 Old 12-18-2013, 08:14 AM - Thread Starter
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You're welcome biggrin.gif

I was hoping to update with the results of getting the MiniDSP set up, but I don't even have it yet. Had too many financial setbacks this month. I'll be going with the balanced version due to the fact that I'm running a pro amp.
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post #339 of 351 Old 06-29-2014, 09:09 AM
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Did you ever get it ?

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"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #340 of 351 Old 06-29-2014, 09:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Nope - having too much trouble keeping my head above water this year. I landed a cheap one that wasn't working hoping I could fix it... I couldn't. Since then, it's been the last thing on my mind.

The Reckhorn is still doing pretty well - I reckon I'll be flogging it for some time to come yet. No, I'm not getting the most out of the horns but they're still trying to blow me off the couch when the need arises.

Watched "A Good Day to Die Hard" recently, super hot. Way hotter than usual, probably a good 7dB over reference on the LFE. Good gravy, was that ever fun. Surprised I still had a ceiling after that one.
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post #341 of 351 Old 06-29-2014, 12:43 PM
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Here's an update, I had to stop watching movies for a bit and finish the floors.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg wolfhorn finished.jpg (75.5 KB, 73 views)
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post #342 of 351 Old 06-29-2014, 01:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Cool - I was wondering how yours have been doing. Looks good!
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post #343 of 351 Old 06-29-2014, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modelaratrod View Post
Here's an update, I had to stop watching movies for a bit and finish the floors.

Nice! What a perfect riser!

This bad boy would make a great wall too!

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post #344 of 351 Old 08-11-2014, 01:23 PM
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Mr Wolf
I hope everything is going well.
I have a question about an amp(s) .


I see you modeled the wolfhorn sdx with 360watts is that as much power as you can safely power them with?


I bought 2 of the crown x1000 so that I could run each cabinet off of 1 amp bridged.
That would net me 2 X 600 @ 8 Ohms. I assume I will need a minidsp to high pass with.
This would net me a total of 1200watts between cabinets
That is option 1


Option 2 would be to return the crowns and buy an Inuke DSP 3000
With the 3000 I would run both cabinets together and get a 4 Ohm load at 880 watts.
and still have 1 channel left over for the center channel.


Option 3 would be to return the crowns and buy an Inuke DSP 6000.
With the 6000 I would run both cabinets together and get a 4 Ohm load at 3000 watts.
and still have 1 channel left over for the center channel.


I can use the current limiters on the Inukes to protect the speakers.



I am $218 into the crowns and will need a dsp at about 100 so about 325 all in.
The Inuke 3000 DSP is 279.99 on AMAZON
The Inuke 6000 DSP is 399.99 on AMAZON


I know there are up sides to both what would you recommend?


Thanks Erich
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post #345 of 351 Old 08-14-2014, 01:52 PM - Thread Starter
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600W is the absolute limit the design will take with the highpass from post #336 in place... I wouldn't do a watt more than that. And you will absolutely need that highpass... it's what'll keep the drivers from clanking below the corner. My 360W suggestion was before Hornresp added that awesome simulation feature, and had to more or less guess based on the Reckhorn and diaphragm displacement graph.

As is, they will be very close to clanking above the corner as well if you give them that much power. Xmech is 28mm IIRC, and you will be close if you run them full out on 600W. You still need to stay around 360W if you want the drivers to stay within Xmax. That said, at 600W in quarter space at one meter, you're talking over 120dB each. Your house might give up before those drivers do

In other words, I would run the Crowns and add a MiniDSP balanced. You've got the amps, they're not crazy overpowered for the design, might as well use them

FWIW, the difference between 360W and 600W in SPL on this design is minimal. You gain perhaps 3dB... that's it.

Last edited by Oklahoma Wolf; 08-14-2014 at 01:59 PM.
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post #346 of 351 Old 08-14-2014, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oklahoma Wolf View Post
Cool - I was wondering how yours have been doing. Looks good!
Thanks Mr. Wolf.


Fun I've been running mine with the EP4000
RMS @ 1% THD (sine wave), bridged mode
8 ohms: 1750W
4 ohms: 2400W


It's turned all the way up to 2 maybe 2.5. LOL
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post #347 of 351 Old 08-15-2014, 04:00 AM
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Quick question for Mr. Wolf.

What were the final dimensions of this sub? As we discussed a while bank, I want to find a horn sub that I can use as a riser. I can't remember what we discussed, specifically in our PM's as I have deleted it.

My room is 14ft by 17ft by 8ft so I would prefer a horn sub that is capable of being used as a riser in a room of these dimensions. If I don't end up finding a suitable horn sub for this purpose, I may end up getting like 8 of the Infinity 1260w's and build them into a ported riser sub that is 14ft wide and 4ft deep by what ever hight I end up needing.
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post #348 of 351 Old 08-15-2014, 11:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post
What were the final dimensions of this sub?
78" x 43" x 13.25."
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post #349 of 351 Old 08-16-2014, 03:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oklahoma Wolf View Post
78" x 43" x 13.25."

So that should work very well as a riser, assuming that I build two and arrange them do be 78" x 2 = 156" which comes out to 13ft which is almost the perfect size for my room as it is 14ft wide! I could add some additional bracing to better couple the subs to the walls which would prevent vibrating the walls to death, and cover the last 1ft gap between the two ends and the walls.

I vaguely remember reading in this thread something about some different drivers being compared for this horn, so in order to keep me from having to sift way back through the thread, can you tell me if the SDX-10 was the final and most optimal driver for these subs? Where can the SDX-10 be purchased?
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post #350 of 351 Old 08-16-2014, 09:13 AM
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post #351 of 351 Old 08-16-2014, 10:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post
I vaguely remember reading in this thread something about some different drivers being compared for this horn
That info is in post #1 . The SDX10 is still the only driver I have ever tried with it, and the one it was primarily designed for. It is the only one I can confirm beyond any doubt that it works in this horn. It's still available here: http://www.creativesound.ca/details.php?model=SDX10
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