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post #31 of 58 Old 08-06-2011, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

125dB of this song.

Flux Pavillion - Got 2 Know
http://grooveshark.com/#/search?q=fl...ion+got+2+know

Make sure and listen about a minute in when the bass line starts.

Subs running at least 6dB hotter than mains -- and it was apparent from watching the SPL meter it was definately the bass notes that were hitting those peaks.

What I was getting at is 120dB-130dB with subs and clipping EP4000s doesnt say much to me, but if your doing that with mains... HOLY ****!
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post #32 of 58 Old 08-06-2011, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by kryptonitewhite View Post


running what?

Mfw dual opposed...it was only when I had the BFD in the studio position instead of home. I havnt done further testing yet to see max levels because I keep clipping the BFD. Still workin on it.
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post #33 of 58 Old 08-06-2011, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by kryptonitewhite View Post

126dB with the front stage, so >100Hz. from 100Hz down its well above that. 150's! 148dB @ 25Hz before with only 1 alt, IB3s, 25Hz tune, clipping to ****. Havent gotten metered since 1803s, havent added the 2nd alt yet, tuning is now 23Hz

I don't think i ever clip the EPs anymore. I did in the towers with music, but not with the manifold.

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post #34 of 58 Old 08-06-2011, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mpray1983 View Post

Mfw dual opposed...it was only when I had the BFD in the studio position instead of home. I havnt done further testing yet to see max levels because I keep clipping the BFD. Still workin on it.

Studio vs home: is that simply a change in voltage, or what exactly is that?
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post #35 of 58 Old 08-06-2011, 11:32 PM
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The studio setting is considered +4db and the home setting is -10db. It has to do with gain structure and setting levels. It's a little button on the back of the BFD.
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post #36 of 58 Old 08-07-2011, 12:18 AM
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ya, I tried running both ways and couldnt tell the difference other than higher level and lower level. Just wondered the theory/electronics behind them
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post #37 of 58 Old 08-07-2011, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kryptonitewhite View Post

ya, I tried running both ways and couldnt tell the difference other than higher level and lower level. Just wondered the theory/electronics behind them

I didn't care for studio mode
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post #38 of 58 Old 08-17-2011, 07:34 PM
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bump for more actual feedback from other individuals running one way or the other.


Anybody got any REW graphs - with limiter as compared to without?

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post #39 of 58 Old 08-17-2011, 08:40 PM
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Hopefully someone can do some sweeps clip on and clip off, I get much too loud without any clipping so I can't do it for you. Some more stupid vids if you find them entertaining. I was wrong about EP4000 making noise below 10Hz... I just played full bore 3Hz till the breaker tripped then again at 5Hz, it clips so bad its loud and picked up well on the cam for 5Hz, I'll try 3Hz again in a sec for something to do. When I set the camera under the woofer before I play the tone you can hear my buzz. Grounding loop? IDK.

EP4000 doesnt make strange sound brought to full clipping till breaker blew 5Hz

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHAzvnW9Ock
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post #40 of 58 Old 08-17-2011, 08:49 PM
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hahahah - it looks like you live in close proximity to other houses! How do your neighbors handle all that spl? :P


My theatres in a basement, and for the most part the sound gets dampened QUITE a bit by the time it hits my neighbors house.

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post #41 of 58 Old 08-17-2011, 08:54 PM
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Got it/them to make the buzz sound with 3hz, if you listen close you hear a buzz sound that cycles with the subs. IDK if both amps do it or just one. When i was breaking in the 1803's free air, if I played a sine wave at a high volume for a bit, 1 set of woofers off 1 amp would start to make a buzz along with the sine wave until I turned it all the way down for a few seconds.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-43MK4pggo
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post #42 of 58 Old 08-17-2011, 08:54 PM
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I dont listen loud anymore, I have the last 2 nights though... I really wih i could build an underground bunker outside town.
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post #43 of 58 Old 08-18-2011, 06:15 AM
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I don't know why this happened but with a modded fan and the clip limiter on I actually blew an ep4000 with war of the worlds pod emergence scene. I had played that scene numerous times before without it on with no problems at -5db. My first try with the clip limiter and I could smell the heat from across the room. I got a full refund on it so it didn't matter. Also just so everyone knows it could be a freak occurrence and one might not have anything to do with the other.
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post #44 of 58 Old 08-18-2011, 07:09 AM
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Quote:


I don't know why this happened but with a modded fan and the clip limiter on I actually blew an ep4000 with war of the worlds pod emergence scene. I had played that scene numerous times before without it on with no problems at -5db. My first try with the clip limiter and I could smell the heat from across the room. I got a full refund on it so it didn't matter. Also just so everyone knows it could be a freak occurrence and one might not have anything to do with the other.

That sounds backwards to me. Surely that is the whole point off the clip limiter. Are you sure you didn't have it the other way around.
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post #45 of 58 Old 08-18-2011, 07:25 AM
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Positive...I started trying the clip limiter after this thread started.
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post #46 of 58 Old 08-18-2011, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mpray1983 View Post

Positive...I started trying the clip limiter after this thread started.

whoa what a trip
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post #47 of 58 Old 08-18-2011, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kryptonitewhite View Post


whoa what a trip

Exactly it started tripping the breaker and never worked again
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post #48 of 58 Old 08-18-2011, 08:18 AM
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Just reading the manual and it states that the clip limiter is there purely to lower amplification when it sees a high distorted signal. So if you had it off and would go louder without issues then the signal surely would be more distorted and would cause problems. Unless behringer for some wierd reason decided to swap the switches around on those two. You never know with behringer. LOL.
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post #49 of 58 Old 11-16-2011, 05:13 AM
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Hate to revive an old thread, but was there ever a consensus?

Looks like MP blew one with it on and most everybody else runs it off......

Mine's set to off and I don't clip, just wondering as always about optimizing my settings....

Don't waste time reading signatures.....
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post #50 of 58 Old 11-16-2011, 05:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Hate to revive an old thread, but was there ever a consensus?

Looks like MP blew one with it on and most everybody else runs it off......

Mine's set to off and I don't clip, just wondering as always about optimizing my settings....

If you don't clip you definately want it off.

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post #51 of 58 Old 11-17-2011, 06:01 PM
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According to the manual the clip limited only effects the higher frequencies anyway, so there is no reason to have it engauged for sub duty.

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www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1345494
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post #52 of 58 Old 11-18-2011, 04:06 PM
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Don't use the clip limiter.

Typically, any kind of limiting, clip limiter or otherwise, is bad news. One can bang up against a limiter and raise RMS levels by lowering crest factor of the amps output. Bad news for every aspect from the line cord pulling more amperage, thus potential voltage drop and the desire to up volume even more. Also, to stressing the power supply, and output stage's with potential thermal runaway scenarios. Subsequently, all the way to maybe even cooking a voice coil due to high current, with low dynamics/low crest factor.

So, unless it's a very sophisticated voltage clip limiter, I'd entirely avoid the clip limiter.


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post #53 of 58 Old 03-21-2013, 09:06 AM
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I have a question regarding the clip limiters. I used to use an EP1500, but found it wasn't enough power. So I just purchased a new EP4000 to run my PA speakers during band practice.
The PA Speakers are JBL JRX125 (http://www.jblpro.com/catalog/general/Product.aspx?PId=91).
Their power rating is 500w RMS, 2000w peak. However, I've read that the EP4000 actually puts out about 667 watts RMS @ 4 ohm's stereo. So I believe it's a fairly good match.

The problem I'm having is that the rest of the band's equipment is still over powering (they don't wanna turn their stuff down, cause the drums are loud), and ideally I need the volume at around the point where the clip limiters will clip roughly every 1-3 seconds. But I was always under the assumption that if I let the amp clip, I could fry my speakers or amp. But I've read that the point of these clip limiters are to protect and reduce the signal at loud peaks.

So what I would like to know is, is it safe to play that loudly, or is there still a chance of frying something? Cause now I'm wondering if I'm going to need 2 of these EP4000s, and run each one bridged @ 4 ohms to confidently push my PA speakers.

Also, I noticed that my right channel's clip light will come on before the left channel does. And in order to keep them just below the clipping point, the right channel's volume needs to be lower than the lefts. Is this a defect with the amp or clip sensor?
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post #54 of 58 Old 03-21-2013, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by choujij View Post

I have a question regarding the clip limiters. I used to use an EP1500, but found it wasn't enough power. So I just purchased a new EP4000 to run my PA speakers during band practice.
The PA Speakers are JBL JRX125 (http://www.jblpro.com/catalog/general/Product.aspx?PId=91).
Their power rating is 500w RMS, 2000w peak. However, I've read that the EP4000 actually puts out about 667 watts RMS @ 4 ohm's stereo. So I believe it's a fairly good match.

The problem I'm having is that the rest of the band's equipment is still over powering (they don't wanna turn their stuff down, cause the drums are loud), and ideally I need the volume at around the point where the clip limiters will clip roughly every 1-3 seconds. But I was always under the assumption that if I let the amp clip, I could fry my speakers or amp. But I've read that the point of these clip limiters are to protect and reduce the signal at loud peaks.

So what I would like to know is, is it safe to play that loudly, or is there still a chance of frying something? Cause now I'm wondering if I'm going to need 2 of these EP4000s, and run each one bridged @ 4 ohms to confidently push my PA speakers.

Also, I noticed that my right channel's clip light will come on before the left channel does. And in order to keep them just below the clipping point, the right channel's volume needs to be lower than the lefts. Is this a defect with the amp or clip sensor?

Just buy a FP14k clone, it is basically the same power as 4 bridged EP4000's (or more), with 1/4 the weight, and 30% more power efficiency, 1/4 the rack space, and half the price; and no over-heating/clipping issues.
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post #55 of 58 Old 03-21-2013, 09:55 AM
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If only it were that easy to choose the 14k clone.

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post #56 of 58 Old 03-21-2013, 08:19 PM
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I've only had my EP4000 up and running for a few weeks now, so my experience with it is limited. I have input 1 of the amp connected directly to my Onkyo TX-NR809 with a single unbalanced RCA cable (with RCA to 1/4 adapter). So far, I've always had the clip limiter switches in the 'on' position. My questions go out to those more experienced with this amp... If I can make the red clip lights on the front of the amp come on, I'm assuming this means my receiver is pushing sufficient voltage from the sub output (and not the opposite)?

The amp is pushing dual 10" subwoofers in 1cuft sealed boxes which can easily handle 500 watts RMS each. The subs are dual 4 Ohm voice coils. I've run them with the amp in two different configurations. 8 Ohms stereo (voice coils of each sub run in series), and also at 16 Ohms bridged (voice coils of each sub connected in series and also the two subs connected together in series).

A couple observations...

Running in 8 Ohms stereo (amp in parallel mode), I'm able to get the clip lights lit up fairly easily during bass-heavy scenes in movies with the gain knobs at 26 (just past 12 O'clock). Running in 16 Ohms bridged (amp in stereo mode with channel 2 gain all the way down), I can get the clip lights to come on with channel 1 at 30 (3 O'clock position).

Although I seem to remember reading somewhere a long time ago that ideally only the voice coils (and not multiple subs) should be run in series (with it being fine to run multiple subs in parallel), the dual sub/amp combo sounds much better at 16 Ohm bridged than 8 Ohms stereo. In series, the two subs seem operate more in sync with each other than in stereo (although I suppose they may sound better simply because the amp might be putting out more power at 16 Ohms bridged than in 8 Ohms stereo).

Anyway, given the fact I can get the clip lights to come on (with the clip limiter switches on) in either mode, can I assume the following?...

a) the payoff (if any) of turning the clip limiter switches off might be outweighed by the increased risk of damaging the amp/subs?
b) my Onkyo receiver is a stud, and the signal it pushes is plenty hot to drive the EP4000? biggrin.gif

Thanks to anyone who is willing to lend their wisdom/experience with this amp.

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post #57 of 58 Old 03-23-2013, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post

Just buy a FP14k clone, it is basically the same power as 4 bridged EP4000's (or more), with 1/4 the weight, and 30% more power efficiency, 1/4 the rack space, and half the price; and no over-heating/clipping issues.

I looked these up. To purchase one from Sanway, I'm looking at just over $800. Not bad. I paid $350 for my brand new EP4000.

Thinking about purchasing one of these now.
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post #58 of 58 Old 03-27-2013, 12:53 PM
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i have an ep400 as a backup to my fp14k. worth it. u will never lack power.
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