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post #9721 of 11707 Old 03-23-2014, 09:52 AM
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Will you be using a subwoofer? Most of them don't go deep enough, in my opinion, for true full-range use.
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post #9722 of 11707 Old 03-23-2014, 10:06 AM
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Agreed with both of the above and would add that none of the designs as far as know give consideration to impedance which may affect valves. However I know little about that. Someone should do a design for tubes.
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post #9723 of 11707 Old 03-23-2014, 11:45 AM
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Tubes prefer somewhat flat resistive impedance curves. Unlike resistive loads, capacitive loads will sound much different driven with a SS or tube amp.

Here's an example of a tube friendly high efficiency speaker: http://www.salksound.com/pharos%20high-efficiency%20-%20home.htm

Mike
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post #9724 of 11707 Old 03-23-2014, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

Here's a design currently being worked on. The woofers shown in the photo are not the ones that will be used. I just put them in to see what rear mounting the woofers looked like and how hard they were to install. In the end, I chose to front mount the woofers that will be used. This is a SEOS-15, DNA-360, with dual 8" woofers underneath. The box is 18" tall and I think 21" wide. Depth might get shallower than the photo, not sure yet. Also not 100% sure on the side slot ports yet.

I wanted to do a design like this so that someone could use the same exact speaker for left, right, and center without them being too tall. With an 18" height, it should please a lot of people.




Erich...what might be some notable sonic differences between this and the 1099? (If this has been answered previously, I apologize in advance)...biggrin.gif
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post #9725 of 11707 Old 03-23-2014, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Face2 View Post

Tubes prefer somewhat flat resistive impedance curves. Unlike resistive loads, capacitive loads will sound much different driven with a SS or tube amp.

Here's an example of a tube friendly high efficiency speaker: http://www.salksound.com/pharos%20high-efficiency%20-%20home.htm

9k. ... so we could build it for 1.5k:sly:
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post #9726 of 11707 Old 03-23-2014, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by blah450 View Post

Erich...what might be some notable sonic differences between this and the 1099? (If this has been answered previously, I apologize in advance)...biggrin.gif
I'm sure that when it comes down to the details, they probably sound a bit different. Different woofer, different CD (I think), different WG, different XO frequency. If the designer is the same, they might sound related, but I wouldn't go mixing and matching this with the 1099. Just my gut feeling.
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post #9727 of 11707 Old 03-23-2014, 06:08 PM
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Well this design, sort of, will be my center channel in a few months. Love the look of it and cant wait to build one. Although my parts will all be different at least it will look very similar. biggrin.gif
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post #9728 of 11707 Old 03-23-2014, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by blah450 View Post

Erich...what might be some notable sonic differences between this and the 1099? (If this has been answered previously, I apologize in advance)...biggrin.gif

I wish I could tell you the difference, but I haven't heard them yet. Sorry.
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post #9729 of 11707 Old 03-23-2014, 07:21 PM
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^^^^^^^^No problem. I ordered one anyway...going to 13029...check was sent yesterday.

Will you notify those who have ordered the 1099 when the cut sheet for the enclosure is available?
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post #9730 of 11707 Old 03-24-2014, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

Has there ever been any interest in SEOS cut-out templates? If someone wanted to use different material for their baffle, maybe it would just be simpler to buy Erich's baffle and use it as a template?

It is pretty easy to make your own template:

I followed this procedure:
http://www.exquisiteaudio.com/baffle.html

...in my SEOS center build thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1440924/seos-15-dna-360-ae-td15m-center-channel#post_22756505

The template was easy to make, and it came out perfect.

-Max
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post #9731 of 11707 Old 03-24-2014, 04:31 PM
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Easy indeed. I followed the same guideline to make the template for my SEOS AT1 baffle. It took longer to protect the fiberglass waveguide with tape than it did to route the template. It's perfect.

-Nate
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post #9732 of 11707 Old 03-25-2014, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

I wish I could tell you the difference, but I haven't heard them yet. Sorry.

I was wondering the same thing. Luckily I have save up some $$$ for a while before I decide so I have plenty of time smile.gif and I have to sell my mirages. I'm so excited about all the interesting choices!

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post #9733 of 11707 Old 03-25-2014, 08:14 PM
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Can I smooth the edges of the SEOS12 to my baffle for a seamless transition? I would use shave a 1/8" deep, 1/4" wide channel around the outside edge and fill the transition to the baffle with resin, fiberglass mat, and bondo. Or does the lip meeting the baffle serve a purpose? I'm building Bwalso's TD12m/dna360 design.
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post #9734 of 11707 Old 03-25-2014, 08:31 PM
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I plan on doing that d_c. No problem. Maybe you can help me. Does it need fiberglass or will bondo do the trick? Also, how do you plan to finish it? I was gonna find a plastic primer of some kind and spray acrilyc paint with some polyurethane and floetrol mixed in. The poly for toughness and the floetrol to extend the open time a bit. Do you know of a primer that'll work? I have both matte and gloss SEOS to pick from. What ever will accept a finish best. Otherwise I'll just go with matte and not blend them to the baffle.

Glad to hear someone else doing this. I thought it would be more popular!
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post #9735 of 11707 Old 03-25-2014, 09:04 PM
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If you flushmount the SEOS waveguide, you will technically shift the phase of one driver relative to the other. Also, not sure if it matters, but change the diffraction patter a little (probably for the better)
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post #9736 of 11707 Old 03-25-2014, 09:35 PM
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You're right except all the designs already flush the waveguide. So there shouldn't be any phase shift. And the diffraction will be the same if the design is already flushed. D_c might be doing his own design too. I'm doing my own so if there's any diffraction change it won't matter.
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post #9737 of 11707 Old 03-25-2014, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by scotsman8 View Post

Any word when the Alpha 8 center is going to be on the site?

Wondering that myself
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post #9738 of 11707 Old 03-26-2014, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

You're right except all the designs already flush the waveguide. So there shouldn't be any phase shift. And the diffraction will be the same if the design is already flushed. D_c might be doing his own design too. I'm doing my own so if there's any diffraction change it won't matter.

I'm building the td12m and SEOS12/dna360 with Bill's xo. I will start with an automotive primer over the baffle with attached wg, fill the gap between the baffle and wg with bondo, use a thin strip of glass mat and resin between the two, smooth with bondo, again with the automotive primer, shoot with a charcoal with micro flake automotive paint. Wet sand and finish with a clear coat.
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post #9739 of 11707 Old 03-26-2014, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by d_c View Post

I'm building the td12m and SEOS12/dna360 with Bill's xo. I will start with an automotive primer over the baffle with attached wg, fill the gap between the baffle and wg with bondo, use a thin strip of glass mat and resin between the two, smooth with bondo, again with the automotive primer, shoot with a charcoal with micro flake automotive paint. Wet sand and finish with a clear coat.

Pics?
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post #9740 of 11707 Old 03-26-2014, 09:09 PM
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Auto primer eh. Hmmm. I'll have to see if I can find some. It'll stick to plastic?

I assume the glass fibre is to prevent cracking in the bondo? Like tape in a drywall seam?
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post #9741 of 11707 Old 03-26-2014, 09:57 PM
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I think it should stick. I'll test it on the back of the wg first, and my thought exactly with the seam.

No build pics yet. Still planning. But here is one from AE of my drivers on the table.



And the other goodies waiting



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post #9742 of 11707 Old 03-26-2014, 10:03 PM
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Hmm, that seems like a lot of effort. I am still up in the air about it. I wonder if I'd be making a mistake to not do that. I haven't had bondo crack on me before, but I don't have much experience either.
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post #9743 of 11707 Old 03-26-2014, 10:19 PM
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I could be over thinking it. Bondo would probably be enough. If I stall my build long enough, somebody else might find out first wink.gif
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post #9744 of 11707 Old 03-26-2014, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by d_c View Post

I could be over thinking it. Bondo would probably be enough. If I stall my build long enough, somebody else might find out first wink.gif

See if you can find a can of poly olefin adhesion promoter and some grey scotch brite it should help ensure adhesion of your primer to the plastic waveguide.
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post #9745 of 11707 Old 03-29-2014, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

Here's a design currently being worked on. The woofers shown in the photo are not the ones that will be used. I just put them in to see what rear mounting the woofers looked like and how hard they were to install. In the end, I chose to front mount the woofers that will be used. This is a SEOS-15, DNA-360, with dual 8" woofers underneath. The box is 18" tall and I think 21" wide. Depth might get shallower than the photo, not sure yet. Also not 100% sure on the side slot ports yet.

I wanted to do a design like this so that someone could use the same exact speaker for left, right, and center without them being too tall. With an 18" height, it should please a lot of people.




Something like this looks like it would be excellent for sitting on top of dual subs up front and have the waveguide right at ear height. Very intriguing.

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post #9746 of 11707 Old 03-29-2014, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

That's a cool look! Very "cinema" IMO. Any polars or other technical data? XO frequency? Sensitivity? I assume ports are tuned for f3 around 80hz. Who designed the crossover?

Hi. I don't follow this board closely. It moves quickly on me and there are sooooo many posts, that it makes it hard.

I designed the crossover for the speaker Erich pictured. I have completed it and am almost finished with two designs using the EOS-8 and same woofers. The crossover point with the dual 8's and the SEOS15 is at about 1000 Hz. Sensitivity is about 98 dB. The speaker is good to 60 Hz.

Jeff B.
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post #9747 of 11707 Old 03-29-2014, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by lemans24 View Post

Excellent!! First center that would work well with fusion-15. Don't like the side ports though. Would look really good without those ports and slightly deeper for f3 of 80hz??
Looks good, now when will these be available with flat packs and assembled crossovers?? Lol

The ports are on the side to reduce the overall height, which is something people have been asking for. The speaker's bass extends to about 60Hz. The crossover is complete, it should be available very soon.
Jeff
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post #9748 of 11707 Old 03-29-2014, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Bagby View Post

The ports are on the side to reduce the overall height, which is something people have been asking for. The speaker's bass extends to about 60Hz. The crossover is complete, it should be available very soon.
Jeff

Can you compare at all the difference in sound with this dual 8 vs your tempests ?

I also want to say a big thanks Jeff for all your work you do. I have the fusion mtm center and it sounds great, better then my previous centre channel which was three times more expensive commerncially. smile.gif
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post #9749 of 11707 Old 03-29-2014, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by lemans24 View Post

What 8" drivers will you be using?? The same eminence ones in the fusion-8 or another brand entirely??

Erich can comment further if he wants, but I am working with a proprietary 8" that will only be available through diysoundgroup.
Jeff
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post #9750 of 11707 Old 03-29-2014, 12:29 PM
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Jeff, any off axis measurements? And what XO slopes? I did side by side 5" mids and found the off axis totally unusable above 2khz. Wondering about the 8" and 1000hz. Where did things get hairy?
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