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DIY Speakers and Subs

lukeamdman's Avatar lukeamdman
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@Erich H

I think my emails are getting blocked by your spam filter or vice versa. I've emailed a couple times over the last several months about getting (4) DNA-150 CDs from you.

I haven't had surround sound for a few years since I've been remodeling, and now that the room is finished I'm looking forward to having it again.

I already have the 8" Eminence coax drivers and all the crossover parts, so these CDs are the last piece of the puzzle.

Thanks!
tuxedocivic's Avatar tuxedocivic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post
(4) DNA-150 CDs.
I'm not sure he has them. He's got more 205s and 150s on order, but he's really low on both. The Volts are listed as "limited supply".
lukeamdman's Avatar lukeamdman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
I'm not sure he has them. He's got more 205s and 150s on order, but he's really low on both. The Volts are listed as "limited supply".
That could be. He did say early last month that he was ordering more.

Anyone have four laying around collecting dust?
Erich H's Avatar Erich H
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How did you get the crossover parts and schematic?
Eyleron's Avatar Eyleron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Face2 View Post
Do you own a DSLR? Some of the nicer models work really well for video.
My wife and I do some light video work professionally on the side.

I got her the Panasonic GH3, which has been part of the DSLR revolution toppling much more expensive video/film-specific camera tradition. They, and the Canon DSLRs, have been used on big budget productions too over the past few years.

Anyway, I chose the mirrorless "micro four-thirds" platform (which is Olympus and Panasonic) because they are a smaller form-factor than a full DSLR like Canon/Nikon.
The cameras are smaller, the lenses weight half as much. And they are compatible with just about every single lens out there: Canon, Nikon, Sony, Pentax, Konica, Leica, 16mm, Russian Zeiss knock-offs, etc.

While the GH3 and new GH4 (4k res) are pro-sumer models costing over $1000, there are several cameras in the $400-$800 range that are "pocketable" for travel, that offer great video features that would do the trick for your family and speaker documenting.
lukeamdman's Avatar lukeamdman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post
How did you get the crossover parts and schematic?
You don't remember this discussion via email?

I had been wanting to purchase 4 of the angled V10's for months, but they were never in stock on your site, and I checked weekly for like 6 months. I then saw you had some V8s in stock, so I reached out to another member, @d_c , to ask him how he liked the custom 8" coaxial surrounds he built before I made the purchase. He said they were awesome, so I went to purchase them on your side. As my luck would have it, you only had 2 in stock, and even those 2 were gone later that day.

Going back and forth with d_c, he had some trial and error with different crossover components with his to get the HF just right, and since building a XO from scratch is beyond me, he graciously sent me his final parts list and the schematic from his custom ones.
3ll3d00d's Avatar 3ll3d00d
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I wonder if anyone has frd/zma data for a BMS 4550 in a SEOS10? or a SEOS12 even? The reason is I just want to get started playing with crossover design & thought it might be better to practice with real data rather than simulated data. Or perhaps I should just use data from a different CD like the DNA-360 in http://www.diysoundgroup.com/forum/index.php?topic=56.0 ? Any advice/suggestions welcome!

One other question (from my dredging of the archives), I found this reference to a BMS4550/TD10 build

Quote:
Originally Posted by coctostan View Post
The AT1 looks like a good horn for your use. I'd prefer it over the SEOS-10 because it will hold pattern lower. It has less roundover of course, so it is a tradeoff.
Can anyone explain what the impact of that "less roundover" is? I can see the responses for the AT1 (http://gpoint-audio.com/wp-content/u.../03/seosat.jpg) and the 10 (http://gpoint-audio.com/wp-content/u.../03/seos10.jpg) which suggests the AT1 has something of a peak at certain high frequency bands off axis & possibly a slightly less consistent polar. Is this the downside to the extended control?
tuxedocivic's Avatar tuxedocivic
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3ll3, depends on your goals and XO point. They look extremely similar to me. I wouldn't sweat it. The roundover would just help reduce diffraction.
tuxedocivic's Avatar tuxedocivic
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I don't know if anyone else has done this before, probably, but I just got in the mail some stickers for the back of my speakers that I ordered online. They look pretty good actually.


HopefulFred's Avatar HopefulFred
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Looks good, Ryan. Is the S9 your new walnut baffle living room model?
tuxedocivic's Avatar tuxedocivic
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Yup.

I got them from Vistaprint.ca for anyone in Canada. Was pretty simple and cheap to do.
Eyleron's Avatar Eyleron
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Is "Power: xx watts max" continuous (limiting heating of voice coil) or for transient peaks (limiting over-excursion) ?
tuxedocivic's Avatar tuxedocivic
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Max power means nothing TBH. I only put it there because I'm sure a friend will come over and say what's the max power these beasts can handle. And because almost every other speaker in the world includes a maxpower handling spec on the back. I sorta based it on what the woofer is rated at plus a little more for home use knowing that you can get away with a little more. Both speakers will exceed xmax with those power inputs if run full range. So I also based it on having a sub XO.
dtsdig's Avatar dtsdig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
I don't know if anyone else has done this before, probably, but I just got in the mail some stickers for the back of my speakers that I ordered online. They look pretty good actually.
I've been thinking about some sort of badging for my 10-99's when they are fully finished. I was thinking about either some kind of placard or even a small 3D printed emblem similar to what Kevings did with his LTD02 emblems. Any ideas? BTW, I would prefer they say TUX10-99 instead of Elusive 1099. Afterall, mine were bought and shipped before the name changed; blue woofers and all. #1099ownerelitist LOL
tuxedocivic's Avatar tuxedocivic
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I could order a bunch of 1099 badges and then mail them around. I bet even after shipping it would be about $1.50 a badge. Only thing is it would have to be an agreed upon text. If someone wanted it to say their own thing, it really doesn't cost much. I think my total was about $12.

Kind of brings an official look to them eh.
HFGuy's Avatar HFGuy
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No "Designed in Canada" text ?
BCRSS's Avatar BCRSS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
I could order a bunch of 1099 badges and then mail them around. I bet even after shipping it would be about $1.50 a badge. Only thing is it would have to be an agreed upon text. If someone wanted it to say their own thing, it really doesn't cost much. I think my total was about $12.

Kind of brings an official look to them eh.
Here ya go
I suck at paint.

Attached: tux.jpg (26.7 KB) 
cw5billwade's Avatar cw5billwade
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
I could order a bunch of 1099 badges and then mail them around. I bet even after shipping it would be about $1.50 a badge. Only thing is it would have to be an agreed upon text. If someone wanted it to say their own thing, it really doesn't cost much. I think my total was about $12.

Kind of brings an official look to them eh.
I need 3 Tux1099 is good for me to
saginawjuggalo's Avatar saginawjuggalo
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I would like three as well! "Model - 1099" works for me... with designer name, specs etc.
bwaslo's Avatar bwaslo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
Max power means nothing TBH. I only put it there because I'm sure a friend will come over and say what's the max power these beasts can handle...
Yeah, you gotta be ready for the inevitable "how many watts does that speaker got??" question!
tuxedocivic's Avatar tuxedocivic
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If people would like these done, I'll get one mocked up from the same site and post it over in the 1099 thread for people to discuss.
LastButNotLeast's Avatar LastButNotLeast
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Don't forget your signature. That works for Andrew Jones.
cw5billwade's Avatar cw5billwade
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+1 :-)
pbc's Avatar pbc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
I don't know if anyone else has done this before, probably, but I just got in the mail some stickers for the back of my speakers that I ordered online. They look pretty good actually.

Cool. I did something similar when I built my AE driver based dual opposed. Except had the logos engraved on black brushed aluminum and stuck them to the front grills.



Eyleron's Avatar Eyleron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
Max power means nothing TBH. I only put it there because I'm sure a friend will come over and say what's the max power these beasts can handle. And because almost every other speaker in the world includes a maxpower handling spec on the back. I sorta based it on what the woofer is rated at plus a little more for home use knowing that you can get away with a little more. Both speakers will exceed xmax with those power inputs if run full range. So I also based it on having a sub XO.
Did you measure distortion levels with increasing power? Where does it get objectional to you?
I guess keeping under Xmax would be what I'd want to know.
mobeer4don's Avatar mobeer4don
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
Max power means nothing TBH. I only put it there because I'm sure a friend will come over and say what's the max power these beasts can handle. And because almost every other speaker in the world includes a maxpower handling spec on the back. I sorta based it on what the woofer is rated at plus a little more for home use knowing that you can get away with a little more. Both speakers will exceed xmax with those power inputs if run full range. So I also based it on having a sub XO.


You forgot to include "digital ready" and the frequency response curve
tuxedocivic's Avatar tuxedocivic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eyleron View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
Max power means nothing TBH. I only put it there because I'm sure a friend will come over and say what's the max power these beasts can handle. And because almost every other speaker in the world includes a maxpower handling spec on the back. I sorta based it on what the woofer is rated at plus a little more for home use knowing that you can get away with a little more. Both speakers will exceed xmax with those power inputs if run full range. So I also based it on having a sub XO.
Did you measure distortion levels with increasing power? Where does it get objectional to you?
I guess keeping under Xmax would be what I'd want to know.
In the past I have done 3db increasing sweeps to see where things start to get ugly. At that point can be the power limit. But I found it was a lot of work for little information. As for xmax, that's dependent upon the sub XO. For the Model - D12 I use 60hz right now, but that could change tomorrow. It's not an easy metric to establish.
cuzed2's Avatar cuzed2
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Hey Tux;

Those labels turned out nice! They should go well with some nice 3D printed SEOS emlems on the face of the speakers
tuxedocivic's Avatar tuxedocivic
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Ya I have those you sent still. I'm debating which speaker to put them on. I'd prefer them on the S9 but the baffle is really special and so I might put them on the D12, but there 4 baffles

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