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post #12541 of 12556 Old 05-14-2015, 04:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3ll3d00d View Post
I'm in the midst of a SEOS10/AE TD10H build and was looking for some advice on how to mount the waveguide/woofer into the baffle. There are some pics in Thinking about a shallow on wall speaker build for reference.

My doubt is the differing depths of the woofer and waveguide. It looks like the woofer is ~18mm and the waveguide is ~12mm. If I stick with my original plan on of a 12mm outer baffle then it means the woofer will stand slightly proud of the surface but the waveguide will be pretty flush. My concern is whether this will cause a (diffraction based) problem in the response given the promixity of the woofer to the exit from the waveguide. I probably want to recess it (and hence use a thicker inner baffle) for aesthetic reasons but wanted to clarify the technical aspect first. What is the recommended approach in this situation?
Why are you opposed to adding a second layer to the inside of the baffle? I don't think that you would even know it's there and should not be any different, aesthetically.
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post #12542 of 12556 Old 05-14-2015, 04:55 AM
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Can you mount the woofer on the back of the front baffle and use a roundover to give a smother exit? Not sure how that will effect your alignment though, but it will effect how you construct the box so you can change the woofer if you need to.

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post #12543 of 12556 Old 05-14-2015, 05:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Tip24/96 View Post
Why are you opposed to adding a second layer to the inside of the baffle?.
I don't follow, what do you mean?
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post #12544 of 12556 Old 05-25-2015, 02:20 PM
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Curious wrt to any news/update for the 1099's little brother, newly mentioned not so long ago . . .
could make stunning surrounds

DIY FAN Denon X5200 , Emotiva UPA7, for 7.3.4 ATMOS/DSU SHARP 80" LED/LCD
FL/FR: DIYSG Fusion 15's , Center: DIYSG 88 Special , SL/SR: RC3II , SRL/SRR: F-3Towers, TF & TR: SLX
2 30" BF THTLP'S , SUBMAXIMUS, 2 x Inuke6000DSP & 2 driverless LHORN cabs
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/401-di...rs-subwoofers/
www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1485120-submaximus-large-front-loaded-horn
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post #12545 of 12556 Old 05-25-2015, 02:20 PM
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Curious wrt to any news/update for the 1099's little brother, newly mentioned not so long ago . . .
could make stunning surrounds

DIY FAN Denon X5200 , Emotiva UPA7, for 7.3.4 ATMOS/DSU SHARP 80" LED/LCD
FL/FR: DIYSG Fusion 15's , Center: DIYSG 88 Special , SL/SR: RC3II , SRL/SRR: F-3Towers, TF & TR: SLX
2 30" BF THTLP'S , SUBMAXIMUS, 2 x Inuke6000DSP & 2 driverless LHORN cabs
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/401-di...rs-subwoofers/
www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1485120-submaximus-large-front-loaded-horn
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post #12546 of 12556 Old 05-25-2015, 02:48 PM
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Not really much to say yet. Just that it's coming. I've been balancing a few designs right now. Which can be good and bad. Bad for time and organization, but good for keeping the audio side of my ears/brain sharp and also for innovation. It's a new woofer in these things that I've never used/heard. I'd really like to beat on them hard as I think that'll be a key feature to these speakers and how well they do bass (for crossing to subs). The woofer may even make it onto my MBM list.
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post #12547 of 12556 Old Yesterday, 11:00 AM
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I've cut the outer baffle for my test box (for a SEOS10/AE TD10 design) and made a couple of errors along the way. This means there is maybe 2mm gap around the woofer and the cutout for the seos is a bit uneven to say the least (I was going to trim this further but I messed up that left side completely so left it as is for now).

Question is, for crossover design purposes, is this good enough? i.e. will that uneven gap at the edge of the SEOS make a difference? I can make another one (and hopefully not mess that one up!) but won't bother if it makes no difference to the XO (as this box is a bit rough for the finished product anyway).
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post #12548 of 12556 Old Yesterday, 11:15 AM
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.02

If it sealed when attached, seems that would be good
not sure about what "look" you're after but if it's not an esthetics issue, a good bead of clear silicon?
or instead of regular foam tape, maybe some kind of more mallable sealing goo

keep posting

DIY FAN Denon X5200 , Emotiva UPA7, for 7.3.4 ATMOS/DSU SHARP 80" LED/LCD
FL/FR: DIYSG Fusion 15's , Center: DIYSG 88 Special , SL/SR: RC3II , SRL/SRR: F-3Towers, TF & TR: SLX
2 30" BF THTLP'S , SUBMAXIMUS, 2 x Inuke6000DSP & 2 driverless LHORN cabs
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/401-di...rs-subwoofers/
www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1485120-submaximus-large-front-loaded-horn
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post #12549 of 12556 Old Yesterday, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3ll3d00d View Post
I've cut the outer baffle for my test box (for a SEOS10/AE TD10 design) and made a couple of errors along the way. This means there is maybe 2mm gap around the woofer and the cutout for the seos is a bit uneven to say the least (I was going to trim this further but I messed up that left side completely so left it as is for now).

Question is, for crossover design purposes, is this good enough? i.e. will that uneven gap at the edge of the SEOS make a difference? I can make another one (and hopefully not mess that one up!) but won't bother if it makes no difference to the XO (as this box is a bit rough for the finished product anyway).



You might get a bit of diffraction in your measurements ^ but for XO I would think that region should be ok- and you could design the XO with idea you will redo the baffle with a better job.

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post #12550 of 12556 Old Yesterday, 11:33 AM
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Might want to try some of that acoustical caulk sealant stuff ^ and fill the gap to smooth it out...

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post #12551 of 12556 Old Yesterday, 11:53 AM
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Look in my clampless build thread. The stuff I used will dry hard as a rock and sand easily to build up the surfaces.
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post #12552 of 12556 Old Yesterday, 12:26 PM
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that's what I was thinking (diffraction) but I was also thinking that the effect should be quite small given the size of the gap and there will be some early noise in any gated measurement anyway (e.g. from the mic stand unless I do that pole thing to hold the mic) hence I was thinking (hoping) that means there would be no material impact on the data quality.

@corradizo you mean the spackling paste?

tbh I'd rather cut a new one than attempt to fix this one, it seems I need some practice cutting out such holes anyway!!
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post #12553 of 12556 Old Yesterday, 12:37 PM
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It'll be fine. My test boxes look like crap all the time. I usually freehand the router to save time
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post #12554 of 12556 Old Yesterday, 11:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3ll3d00d View Post
I've cut the outer baffle for my test box (for a SEOS10/AE TD10 design) and made a couple of errors along the way. This means there is maybe 2mm gap around the woofer and the cutout for the seos is a bit uneven to say the least (I was going to trim this further but I messed up that left side completely so left it as is for now).

Question is, for crossover design purposes, is this good enough? i.e. will that uneven gap at the edge of the SEOS make a difference? I can make another one (and hopefully not mess that one up!) but won't bother if it makes no difference to the XO (as this box is a bit rough for the finished product anyway).
Hope it's not too late for this to be of use now, but check this out for making a jig for recessing the waveguides.

EDIT: Even better. There's a build thread here on AVS.
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post #12555 of 12556 Old Today, 03:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3ll3d00d View Post
that's what I was thinking (diffraction) but I was also thinking that the effect should be quite small given the size of the gap and there will be some early noise in any gated measurement anyway (e.g. from the mic stand unless I do that pole thing to hold the mic) hence I was thinking (hoping) that means there would be no material impact on the data quality.

@corradizo you mean the spackling paste?

tbh I'd rather cut a new one than attempt to fix this one, it seems I need some practice cutting out such holes anyway!!
Yep. Spackling paste. Good stuff.
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post #12556 of 12556 Old Today, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moosifee View Post
Hope it's not too late for this to be of use now, but check this out for making a jig for recessing the waveguides.

EDIT: Even better. There's a build thread here on AVS.
I should have done it this way but I was being lazy just to check, this involves making a template that is the size of the waveguide + the distance from the edge of the enlarged router base to the bit and then using the normal router base to trace inside that bigger template?
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