Automatically Powering on Pro Amps via Relay (guide w/ pics) - Page 12 - AVS Forum
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post #331 of 355 Old 06-09-2014, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Electric Wiz View Post

I like your design a lot. Will be building one of these later this summer.

Cool, have fun! If you variate from the exact heat sink I used just make sure it will do the job. A lot stuff to learn about heat sinks! I triple checked specs when I thought I had it dialed in using the smaller sinks posted above in this thread, but I was wrong.

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post #332 of 355 Old 06-09-2014, 11:18 AM
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If what you used is a known good combo, then I'm good with that! No need to deviate.smile.gif
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post #333 of 355 Old 06-10-2014, 03:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxrealtor View Post

Cool, have fun! If you variate from the exact heat sink I used just make sure it will do the job. A lot stuff to learn about heat sinks! I triple checked specs when I thought I had it dialed in using the smaller sinks posted above in this thread, but I was wrong.

It seems almost impossible to find relay heat sinks with pre-drilled holes 30mm apart to fit the standard SSR. Most all seem to have 47.5mm spacing.
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post #334 of 355 Old 06-10-2014, 08:31 AM
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Did you read my build thread? I used thermal epoxy. You can always drill your own holes too. Power I/O has heat sink/relay combos with screws I think. They're spendy.

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post #335 of 355 Old 06-10-2014, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxrealtor View Post

Did you read my build thread? I used thermal epoxy. You can always drill your own holes too. Power I/O has heat sink/relay combos with screws I think. They're spendy.

Yes, I read your build thread intently. I figured screws + thermal epoxy would be the ultimate in heat dissipation. I suppose I've never used "just" thermal epoxy, so I don't understand how robust the hold would be.
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post #336 of 355 Old 06-10-2014, 08:43 PM
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post #337 of 355 Old 06-10-2014, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam S View Post

Yes, I read your build thread intently. I figured screws + thermal epoxy would be the ultimate in heat dissipation. I suppose I've never used "just" thermal epoxy, so I don't understand how robust the hold would be.

Thermal epoxy is all you need.

One box left for sale .

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post #338 of 355 Old 06-12-2014, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxrealtor View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by Sam S

Yes, I read your build thread intently. I figured screws + thermal epoxy would be the ultimate in heat dissipation. I suppose I've never used "just" thermal epoxy, so I don't understand how robust the hold would be.

Thermal epoxy is all you need.

One box left for sale .

PDX


Still have a box for sale ?

I just went through this entire thread , wish I knew more about electricity Great build btw..

I posted earlier today about getting an INUKE to turn on automatically with my gear. This thread has really made realize the different options people are trying...

I have a Denon X4000 that has two triggers rated at
DC 12 V 150 mA MAX

Will that work with your relay switch and an Inuke3000dsp?

Sorry for the questions, just trying to understand all the material covered in this class

Matt



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post #339 of 355 Old 06-12-2014, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingcobra777 View Post
PDX


Still have a box for sale ?

I just went through this entire thread , wish I knew more about electricity Great build btw..

I posted earlier today about getting an INUKE to turn on automatically with my gear. This thread has really made realize the different options people are trying...

I have a Denon X4000 that has two triggers rated at
DC 12 V 150 mA MAX

Will that work with your relay switch and an Inuke3000dsp?

Sorry for the questions, just trying to understand all the material covered in this class

Matt



Yes one left. Yes it will work great for the iNuke and your AVR. It draws 10 ma, so you're gtg. PM me your address for shipping quote if you're interested. Price is 50.00 plus shipping. Boxed and ready to go.

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post #340 of 355 Old 06-14-2014, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxrealtor View Post
Yes one left. Yes it will work great for the iNuke and your AVR. It draws 10 ma, so you're gtg. PM me your address for shipping quote if you're interested. Price is 50.00 plus shipping. Boxed and ready to go.
Excited to try this out. Total noob question: How exactly is the relay turning on the AMP? I understand the 12v trigger from the receiver is activating the relay in the DIY box but how is that electrical signal turning on the AMP opposed to having the amp plugged in to an active circuit? The Amp is plugged in to the outlet the relay box correct? Just trying to understand this method...Matt
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post #341 of 355 Old 06-14-2014, 11:17 AM
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The amps power switch is always on so when the relay is activated the amp turns on. When the relay is deactivated, the amp will shut down because of the loss of power.

Last edited by Mrkazador; 06-14-2014 at 11:20 AM.
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post #342 of 355 Old 06-25-2014, 06:47 PM
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anyone else interested in a 12 volt trigger box PM me. I have a couple guys who want them and I'm trying to make it worth it for me to build them. Several would do the trick.

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post #343 of 355 Old 06-25-2014, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxrealtor View Post
anyone else interested in a 12 volt trigger box PM me. I have a couple guys who want them and I'm trying to make it worth it for me to build them. Several would do the trick.
Solid state or mechanical relay?
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post #344 of 355 Old 06-25-2014, 07:44 PM
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Which do you want. Either or is doable.
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post #345 of 355 Old 06-25-2014, 07:47 PM
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Which do you want. Either or is doable.
Both have good applications, right now I'm most interested in a mechanical version for use with a high power sub.
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post #346 of 355 Old 06-25-2014, 08:05 PM
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Pm me for email address. Go from there
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post #347 of 355 Old 07-05-2014, 11:08 AM
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New item. Can be triggered with as little as 3mA of current.

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12920

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post #348 of 355 Old 07-06-2014, 04:41 PM
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I finally have a few SSR's posted for sale. Still new >>> HERE ON AVS NEW Relays for sale; Crydom SSR's with Heatsinks available

"I should really see what dB levels I'm pushing. Long as it can't foam my beer during a movie we are ok "
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post #349 of 355 Old 07-06-2014, 09:23 PM
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My trigger powers my pro amp just fine and shuts off my projector as well, but it won't turn my projector on. It just goes to stand by mode. How do I bypass this if I can?
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post #350 of 355 Old 07-06-2014, 10:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post
My trigger powers my pro amp just fine and shuts off my projector as well, but it won't turn my projector on. It just goes to stand by mode. How do I bypass this if I can?

Either CEC, or get a remote that can turn on your projector =] The for triggering amps remotely is because they don't have remote control.
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post #351 of 355 Old 07-07-2014, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post
My trigger powers my pro amp just fine and shuts off my projector as well, but it won't turn my projector on. It just goes to stand by mode. How do I bypass this if I can?
There could be a setting in your projector like "turn on when power on" or something like that, which turns it on when it sees voltage on the plug.
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post #352 of 355 Old 07-07-2014, 07:34 AM
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Thanks guys, I have the remote I just wanted a one step solution which is a learning remote.
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post #353 of 355 Old Yesterday, 07:04 PM
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Ah shoot. Was going to start building a mechanical relay-version (already had good success with a couple of SSR units), and I think I ordered the wrong relay.

I ordered an Omron G7L-1A-TUBJ-CB, but the 100-120V version. I think I should have gotten the 12V version? Notice my coil says 100-120VAC, whereas others show 12VDC.
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post #354 of 355 Old Yesterday, 08:05 PM
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That relay can still work if your receiver has a switched outlet.
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post #355 of 355 Old Yesterday, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post
That relay can still work if your receiver has a switched outlet.
I'm using a processor with only trigger outs... Time to order the 12V version, thanks for confirming.
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