Automatically Powering on Pro Amps via Relay (guide w/ pics) - Page 13 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Baselworld is only a few weeks away. Getting the latest news is easy, Click Here for info on how to join the Watchuseek.com newsletter list. Follow our team for updates featuring event coverage, new product unveilings, watch industry news & more!


Forum Jump: 
 
Thread Tools
Old 07-15-2014, 07:49 PM
AVS Special Member
 
A9X-308's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 5,922
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 428 Post(s)
Liked: 277
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam S View Post
Just to be clear, you're saying the snubber should not be connected to a 12VDC to 120VAC contact(s), rather across the two 12VDC contacts?
Yes, across the coil, and make sure you put it the right way around. The stripe should be connected to the positive side of the DC voltage.
Sam S likes this.
A9X-308 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 07-15-2014, 07:53 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Sam S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,176
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Liked: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by A9X-308 View Post
Yes, across the coil, and make sure you put it the right way around. The stripe should be connected to the positive side of the DC voltage.
Thank you. I didn't know the direction was important for this application. I'm just going to solder it across the DC tabs near their base(s), very close to the relay housing, so I can still use the quick-connect tabs for the DC input. Unless there is a better way.

EDIT: actually I'll be soldering the diode through the holes in the tabs, of course! Still plenty of room for the quick-connects if I do it right.

Last edited by Sam S; 07-15-2014 at 08:06 PM.
Sam S is offline  
Old 07-19-2014, 11:34 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Sam S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,176
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Liked: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by A9X-308 View Post
Yes, across the coil, and make sure you put it the right way around. The stripe should be connected to the positive side of the DC voltage.
According to the Omron G7L-1A-TUBJ-BC 12V spec sheet, the relay does not have coil polarity? I know the +/- for my trigger leads, but at this point I'm not clear if the positive should go to the "0" coil/trigger tab, and negative to the "1" tab.
Sam S is offline  
Old 07-19-2014, 12:00 PM
AVS Special Member
 
pdxrealtor's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 2,573
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 136 Post(s)
Liked: 148
Sam,

Just make sure the stripe is on the positive wire of the DC trigger and you will be good. It shouldn't matter what relay tab the positive or negative wire is attached to.

If you have doubts, go hook up the 12 trigger off your AVR to the relay. You should be able to swap them and get the same result. Or you can strip a 12 volt wall wart and do the same. If the relay clicks you're good to go.
pdxrealtor is offline  
Old 07-19-2014, 12:18 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Sam S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,176
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Liked: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxrealtor View Post
Sam,

Just make sure the stripe is on the positive wire of the DC trigger and you will be good. It shouldn't matter what relay tab the positive or negative wire is attached to.

If you have doubts, go hook up the 12 trigger off your AVR to the relay. You should be able to swap them and get the same result. Or you can strip a 12 volt wall wart and do the same. If the relay clicks you're good to go.
Great, thank you. Same for the A/C tabs (doesn't matter which tab), I assume, because those are both hot.
Sam S is offline  
Old 07-19-2014, 12:26 PM
AVS Special Member
 
pdxrealtor's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 2,573
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 136 Post(s)
Liked: 148
pdxrealtor is offline  
Old 07-19-2014, 04:18 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Sam S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,176
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Liked: 22
OK, got it all assembled, and working! I reused one of the two SSR relay boxes I made to make this one with an Omron mechanical relay for use with my Seaton Submersive HP sub.

I really appreciate everyone that assisted with my questions!



Troglidite likes this.
Sam S is offline  
Old 10-18-2014, 12:03 PM
Senior Member
 
Mr. Electric Wiz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 300
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked: 27
I just built one of these per pdxrealtor's instructions.
My outlet is hot all the time and does not switch on/off with my 12V trigger on my Pioneer receiver.
I verified the trigger is putting out 12V but my relay is not working
I have it wired up like this:

1) hot wire goes to Load 1, and outlet hot to Load 2
2) neutral to neutral side of outlet
3) grounds all together then screwed to box
4) 1/4" negative to ring side of socket
5) 1/4" positive to tip side of socket

Is this correct?
Mr. Electric Wiz is offline  
Old 10-18-2014, 12:13 PM
Senior Member
 
Mr. Electric Wiz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 300
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked: 27
I wired my jack like this:
Mr. Electric Wiz is offline  
Old 10-18-2014, 12:19 PM
Senior Member
 
Mr. Electric Wiz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 300
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Terrible picture, I know but can anyone see anything that I wired up incorrectly?
Mr. Electric Wiz is offline  
Old 10-18-2014, 12:37 PM
Senior Member
 
Mr. Electric Wiz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 300
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Mr. Electric Wiz is offline  
Old 10-20-2014, 06:07 AM
Senior Member
 
Mr. Electric Wiz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 300
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Does anybody have any ideas about my SSR issue listed in my previous post?
Mr. Electric Wiz is offline  
Old 10-20-2014, 09:30 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Sam S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,176
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Liked: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Electric Wiz View Post
Does anybody have any ideas about my SSR issue listed in my previous post?
I looked carefully at yours, and it is wired the same as mine. Bad relay? Can you try with a different receiver? I know one of my receivers acts goof with the 12V output.
Sam S is offline  
Old 10-20-2014, 10:02 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
notnyt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 5,662
Mentioned: 58 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 938 Post(s)
Liked: 887
SSRs are polarized, ensure the trigger section is wired properly. The cables may be reversed.
notnyt is online now  
Old 10-20-2014, 01:11 PM
Senior Member
 
Mr. Electric Wiz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 300
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked: 27
The way I have it wired now, the trigger section goes to 11.5 volts when measured at the SSR input terminals.
If I wire it the other way, it goes to -11.5 volts.
What's strange is that it's always on, even when I unplug the trigger.

If it turns out my relay is bad it totally sucks because it's already glued to the heat sink and outlet box. :-(
Mr. Electric Wiz is offline  
Old 10-20-2014, 06:43 PM
Senior Member
 
Mr. Electric Wiz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 300
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked: 27
If the input side is disconnected completely, the outlet should be dead right?
Mine is not.
Bad relay?
Mr. Electric Wiz is offline  
Old 10-20-2014, 07:06 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
notnyt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 5,662
Mentioned: 58 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 938 Post(s)
Liked: 887
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Electric Wiz View Post
If the input side is disconnected completely, the outlet should be dead right?
Mine is not.
Bad relay?
right, but not quite so simple. If you measure with a meter and there's no load on it, it will show some voltage. However, if you plug in a light bulb, it will quickly turn off.
notnyt is online now  
Old 10-20-2014, 07:19 PM
Advanced Member
 
btinindy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 846
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 58
Yes, the SSR's have to have a load to "switch". Plug something into it to test, not just a meter...


BT1
btinindy is offline  
Old 10-20-2014, 07:53 PM
Senior Member
 
Mr. Electric Wiz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 300
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Well apparently my circuit tester (plug with lights to tell if circuit is wired correctly) wasn't enough of a load to trip the SSR.
Everything seems to be working correctly when I plug a lamp into it.
Geez, I was getting worried.
Thanks notnyt and BT1!
Mr. Electric Wiz is offline  
Old 10-20-2014, 07:55 PM
Senior Member
 
Mr. Electric Wiz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 300
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Completed!
Mr. Electric Wiz is offline  
Old 10-21-2014, 07:04 AM
AVS Special Member
 
jpmst3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Davidsville, PA
Posts: 8,379
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 96 Post(s)
Liked: 231
Good job!
That should do the trick!

______________________________________________
Joe = LFE Addict
Joe's LOWARHORN build
Dual LMS-5400 Ultra Endtables build
jpmst3 is offline  
Old 10-21-2014, 06:53 PM
Advanced Member
 
btinindy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 846
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 58
Looks good all murdered out. That is a serious heat sink!


BT1
btinindy is offline  
Old 11-27-2014, 08:34 AM
d_c
AVS Special Member
 
d_c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 1,354
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 404 Post(s)
Liked: 364
d_c is offline  
Old 11-29-2014, 08:03 PM
Member
 
duder1982's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Papillion, NE
Posts: 73
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Just came across this thread, and am wondering are people having any issues with heat. If so is it do to the mechanical relay. I had and idea, but mine was for a in wall build. But if heat is a issue I guess I would want to stay away from this. I was thinking of using this relay.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...-G3E-220T-US12
duder1982 is online now  
Old 11-29-2014, 10:29 PM
AVS Special Member
 
A9X-308's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 5,922
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 428 Post(s)
Liked: 277
Quote:
Originally Posted by duder1982 View Post
Just came across this thread, and am wondering are people having any issues with heat. If so is it do to the mechanical relay. I had and idea, but mine was for a in wall build. But if heat is a issue I guess I would want to stay away from this. I was thinking of using this relay.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...-G3E-220T-US12
It's only rated to 5A w/o the heatsink and if you were planning on running near rating with no airflow in wall, I'd suggest not using it. Or getting an electromechanical.
A9X-308 is offline  
Old 11-30-2014, 06:55 AM
Member
 
duder1982's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Papillion, NE
Posts: 73
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by A9X-308 View Post
It's only rated to 5A w/o the heatsink and if you were planning on running near rating with no airflow in wall, I'd suggest not using it. Or getting an electromechanical.
So I would have to use a heat sink. Any recommendation for electromechanical relays.
duder1982 is online now  
Old 11-30-2014, 07:12 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Sam S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,176
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Liked: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by duder1982 View Post
So I would have to use a heat sink. Any recommendation for electromechanical relays.
Omron G7L-1A-TUBJ-BC 12V
Sam S is offline  
Old 11-30-2014, 07:41 AM
Member
 
duder1982's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Papillion, NE
Posts: 73
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam S View Post
Omron G7L-1A-TUBJ-BC 12V
Thanks, didn't realize that, that's the one on the first page. Plus I all ready had it in my wish list at Mouser, and its cheaper then the ssr I was looking at.

Is it necessary to use the metal boxes. I read it acts as a heat sink, do they still get a little warm.
duder1982 is online now  
Old 11-30-2014, 07:46 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Sam S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,176
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Liked: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by duder1982 View Post
Thanks, didn't realize that, that's the one on the first page. Plus I all ready had it in my wish list at Mouser, and its cheaper then the ssr I was looking at.

Is it necessary to use the metal boxes. I read it acts as a heat sink, do they still get a little warm.
You don't need a heat sink if you're using a mechanical relay, it does not get hot.

I have built 2 SSR relays, and one mechanical. I use the mechanical one for my sub, because I understand it will allow for more current to pass through, without any risk of overheating. You can see pics of one of each type of box I built, if you look at my posts in this thread.

If you're not going to use a metal box, what else would you use? They're cheap, easily available, and don't look terribly bad. If you're going to use the Omron mechanical relay, you'll need to use two metal boxes, see my pics on earlier on this page.
Sam S is offline  
 
Thread Tools


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off