Automatically Powering on Pro Amps via Relay (guide w/ pics) - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 389 Old 07-15-2014, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Sam S View Post
Just to be clear, you're saying the snubber should not be connected to a 12VDC to 120VAC contact(s), rather across the two 12VDC contacts?
Yes, across the coil, and make sure you put it the right way around. The stripe should be connected to the positive side of the DC voltage.
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post #362 of 389 Old 07-15-2014, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by A9X-308 View Post
Yes, across the coil, and make sure you put it the right way around. The stripe should be connected to the positive side of the DC voltage.
Thank you. I didn't know the direction was important for this application. I'm just going to solder it across the DC tabs near their base(s), very close to the relay housing, so I can still use the quick-connect tabs for the DC input. Unless there is a better way.

EDIT: actually I'll be soldering the diode through the holes in the tabs, of course! Still plenty of room for the quick-connects if I do it right.

Last edited by Sam S; 07-15-2014 at 09:06 PM.
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post #363 of 389 Old 07-19-2014, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by A9X-308 View Post
Yes, across the coil, and make sure you put it the right way around. The stripe should be connected to the positive side of the DC voltage.
According to the Omron G7L-1A-TUBJ-BC 12V spec sheet, the relay does not have coil polarity? I know the +/- for my trigger leads, but at this point I'm not clear if the positive should go to the "0" coil/trigger tab, and negative to the "1" tab.
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post #364 of 389 Old 07-19-2014, 01:00 PM
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Sam,

Just make sure the stripe is on the positive wire of the DC trigger and you will be good. It shouldn't matter what relay tab the positive or negative wire is attached to.

If you have doubts, go hook up the 12 trigger off your AVR to the relay. You should be able to swap them and get the same result. Or you can strip a 12 volt wall wart and do the same. If the relay clicks you're good to go.

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post #365 of 389 Old 07-19-2014, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by pdxrealtor View Post
Sam,

Just make sure the stripe is on the positive wire of the DC trigger and you will be good. It shouldn't matter what relay tab the positive or negative wire is attached to.

If you have doubts, go hook up the 12 trigger off your AVR to the relay. You should be able to swap them and get the same result. Or you can strip a 12 volt wall wart and do the same. If the relay clicks you're good to go.
Great, thank you. Same for the A/C tabs (doesn't matter which tab), I assume, because those are both hot.
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post #366 of 389 Old 07-19-2014, 01:26 PM
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^^ correct

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post #367 of 389 Old 07-19-2014, 05:18 PM
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OK, got it all assembled, and working! I reused one of the two SSR relay boxes I made to make this one with an Omron mechanical relay for use with my Seaton Submersive HP sub.

I really appreciate everyone that assisted with my questions!



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post #368 of 389 Old 10-18-2014, 01:03 PM
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I just built one of these per pdxrealtor's instructions.
My outlet is hot all the time and does not switch on/off with my 12V trigger on my Pioneer receiver.
I verified the trigger is putting out 12V but my relay is not working
I have it wired up like this:

1) hot wire goes to Load 1, and outlet hot to Load 2
2) neutral to neutral side of outlet
3) grounds all together then screwed to box
4) 1/4" negative to ring side of socket
5) 1/4" positive to tip side of socket

Is this correct?
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post #369 of 389 Old 10-18-2014, 01:13 PM
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I wired my jack like this:
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post #370 of 389 Old 10-18-2014, 01:19 PM
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Terrible picture, I know but can anyone see anything that I wired up incorrectly?
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post #371 of 389 Old 10-18-2014, 01:37 PM
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post #372 of 389 Old 10-20-2014, 07:07 AM
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Does anybody have any ideas about my SSR issue listed in my previous post?
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post #373 of 389 Old 10-20-2014, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Electric Wiz View Post
Does anybody have any ideas about my SSR issue listed in my previous post?
I looked carefully at yours, and it is wired the same as mine. Bad relay? Can you try with a different receiver? I know one of my receivers acts goof with the 12V output.
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post #374 of 389 Old 10-20-2014, 11:02 AM - Thread Starter
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SSRs are polarized, ensure the trigger section is wired properly. The cables may be reversed.
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post #375 of 389 Old 10-20-2014, 02:11 PM
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The way I have it wired now, the trigger section goes to 11.5 volts when measured at the SSR input terminals.
If I wire it the other way, it goes to -11.5 volts.
What's strange is that it's always on, even when I unplug the trigger.

If it turns out my relay is bad it totally sucks because it's already glued to the heat sink and outlet box. :-(
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post #376 of 389 Old 10-20-2014, 07:43 PM
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If the input side is disconnected completely, the outlet should be dead right?
Mine is not.
Bad relay?
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post #377 of 389 Old 10-20-2014, 08:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Electric Wiz View Post
If the input side is disconnected completely, the outlet should be dead right?
Mine is not.
Bad relay?
right, but not quite so simple. If you measure with a meter and there's no load on it, it will show some voltage. However, if you plug in a light bulb, it will quickly turn off.
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post #378 of 389 Old 10-20-2014, 08:19 PM
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Yes, the SSR's have to have a load to "switch". Plug something into it to test, not just a meter...


BT1
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post #379 of 389 Old 10-20-2014, 08:53 PM
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Well apparently my circuit tester (plug with lights to tell if circuit is wired correctly) wasn't enough of a load to trip the SSR.
Everything seems to be working correctly when I plug a lamp into it.
Geez, I was getting worried.
Thanks notnyt and BT1!
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post #380 of 389 Old 10-20-2014, 08:55 PM
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Completed!
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post #381 of 389 Old 10-21-2014, 08:04 AM
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Good job!
That should do the trick!

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post #382 of 389 Old 10-21-2014, 07:53 PM
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Looks good all murdered out. That is a serious heat sink!


BT1
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post #383 of 389 Old 11-27-2014, 09:34 AM
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post #384 of 389 Old 11-29-2014, 09:03 PM
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Just came across this thread, and am wondering are people having any issues with heat. If so is it do to the mechanical relay. I had and idea, but mine was for a in wall build. But if heat is a issue I guess I would want to stay away from this. I was thinking of using this relay.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...-G3E-220T-US12
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post #385 of 389 Old 11-29-2014, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duder1982 View Post
Just came across this thread, and am wondering are people having any issues with heat. If so is it do to the mechanical relay. I had and idea, but mine was for a in wall build. But if heat is a issue I guess I would want to stay away from this. I was thinking of using this relay.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...-G3E-220T-US12
It's only rated to 5A w/o the heatsink and if you were planning on running near rating with no airflow in wall, I'd suggest not using it. Or getting an electromechanical.
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post #386 of 389 Old 11-30-2014, 07:55 AM
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It's only rated to 5A w/o the heatsink and if you were planning on running near rating with no airflow in wall, I'd suggest not using it. Or getting an electromechanical.
So I would have to use a heat sink. Any recommendation for electromechanical relays.
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post #387 of 389 Old 11-30-2014, 08:12 AM
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So I would have to use a heat sink. Any recommendation for electromechanical relays.
Omron G7L-1A-TUBJ-BC 12V
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post #388 of 389 Old 11-30-2014, 08:41 AM
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Omron G7L-1A-TUBJ-BC 12V
Thanks, didn't realize that, that's the one on the first page. Plus I all ready had it in my wish list at Mouser, and its cheaper then the ssr I was looking at.

Is it necessary to use the metal boxes. I read it acts as a heat sink, do they still get a little warm.
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post #389 of 389 Old 11-30-2014, 08:46 AM
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Thanks, didn't realize that, that's the one on the first page. Plus I all ready had it in my wish list at Mouser, and its cheaper then the ssr I was looking at.

Is it necessary to use the metal boxes. I read it acts as a heat sink, do they still get a little warm.
You don't need a heat sink if you're using a mechanical relay, it does not get hot.

I have built 2 SSR relays, and one mechanical. I use the mechanical one for my sub, because I understand it will allow for more current to pass through, without any risk of overheating. You can see pics of one of each type of box I built, if you look at my posts in this thread.

If you're not going to use a metal box, what else would you use? They're cheap, easily available, and don't look terribly bad. If you're going to use the Omron mechanical relay, you'll need to use two metal boxes, see my pics on earlier on this page.
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