The main thing when putting the inner panels in is to make sure they are all level on the top while you go. That way the capping panel will fit nicely in place and keep things sealed up real good. I'm writing up directions, but probably not fast enough. Obviously drill the correct holes around the woofer first
. I believe you should use a 1/8" bit with #8 pan heads. Make sure you glue all pieces to each other. You don't just want the inner panels glued to the sides, they must be glued to each other as well. The screws help on the inner panels, but you still need to glue them to each other as you go.
Don't drill through the pilot holes until they are dry fitted in place. You should start with panel L and J. Get both of those in first, that will give you a nice 90 degree shape to lay a board on to make sure all other inner panels are level with those first 2.
These aren't the directions I was working on, but I'll type the following up quickly just in case:
In order, I did L & J. Then M, then K. After that, install G, H, and I. Dry fit first, then drill through pilot holes. Make sure it's all level on the top and no wood splinters down in the grooves that might keep panels from nesting in good. No excess dried glue from previous panels down in the grooves.
Then C, then F.
By that time, part M should be set up fairly strong. Install driver and figure how your going to run the speaker wire. I picked up enough of these binding posts (30) to get a discount of around $7 after I paid tax (I'll have to get an exact price): http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=091-1245
That's what I'm using because all you have to do is drill 2 small holes. But I also bought some regular terminal cups like this if anyone needs them:http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-280
They look like that, but not push button, they the normal screw on type. I think those were $2 or $2.50 when I bought 30 of them.
Get all that wiring run on the correct panel first. Personally, I'm putting the terminals on panel D.
As for screws, you can use the normal #8 pan heads for mounting the driver. You can get by with 1" screws. You can use the same screws for putting the cabinet together as well. But the head is a little big on those. Granted you won't see them anyway, so who cares.
#6 pan head screws will work fine as well for putting the cabinet together, but I'd probably use #8 for the woofer. I use a 1/8" bit for #8 and around a 3/32" or 7/64" bit for #6. Doesn't really matter.
After part D and E are in place, I'd let it dry. But that may not be needed. Dry fit the last side panel. I'd do that a couple times to make sure you have it planned out right. Put a decent amount of PL adhesive on all the panel tops, then lay the capping panel in place. You don't need to go nuts with the adhesive
, just make sure you put enough on. I'd then lay a flat board on top, and put some weight on it.
Things you might want to do: Test driver before sealing it up. If your nuts like me, maybe use caulking around all inner panel prior to capping it up? That really isn't necessary though. Just make sure it's sealed up good. This is wood, so there's always going to be a chance for a very slight bow on the longer narrow outside pieces. If there is a bow, it won't cause any issues. A clamp could help out. Or you could drill another pilot hole where ever you thought would help. But again, as I'm packing these up, they are pretty darn flat. Maybe a clamp here or there? Might not be needed though. If clamping, give even pressure across what ever you're clamping.